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THE 


WONDERFUL  CITY  OF  TOKIO 


OR 


Further  Adventures  of  the  Jewett  Family 
And  their  Friend  Oto  Nambo 


AUTHOR  OF  ''YOUNG  AMERICANS  IN  JAPAN"  "THE  GOLDEN  LOTUS"  ETC.  AND  ONE 

OF  THE  TRANSLATORS  OF  THE  JAPANESE  ROMANCE 

"THE  LOYAL  RONINS  " 


ONE  HUNDRED  AND  SIXTY-NINE  ILLUSTRATIONS 


COVER   DESIGNED   AND   DRAWN   BY   THE   AUTHOR 


BOSTON 
LEE    AND    SHEPARD    PUBLISHERS 

NEW   YORK    CHARLES   T.   DILLINGHAM 

I883 


Copyright,  1882, 
BY   LEE   AND   SHEPARD. 


All  Rights  Reserved. 


BOSTON   STEREOTYPE   FOUNDRY, 
No.  4  PEARL  STREET. 


OS 


PREFACE. 


The  kind  manner  in  which  the  "  Young  Americans  in  Japan  "  was 
received  by  the  press  and  public,  has  induced  me  to  write  a  sequel  to  the 
story,  and  to  give  my  friends  some  further  insight  into  the  thoughts, 
manners,  and  customs  of  the  people  of  the  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun. 

A  year  ago  I  revisited  the  Wonderful  City  of  Tokio,  witnessed  the 
scenes  I  have  described  in  this  book,  renewed  my  acquaintance  with 
some  old  friends,  and  made  many  new  ones.  Everywhere  I  found 
earnest  students,  anxious  to  be  more  thoroughly  understood  by  my  coun- 
trymen, and  to  adopt  the  better  portion  of  our  civilization. 

The  Japanese  have  a  quaint  superstition  that  on  New  Year's  Eve 
the  Takara-bune  (treasure-ship),  manned  by  the  Seven  Gods  of  Luck, 
and  laden  with  all  good  things,  enters  every  harbor.  That  this  fortu- 
nate craft  may  come  to  each  of  you,  is  the  earnest  wish  of 

EDWARD   GREEY. 

•3** 

? 

20  EAST  I7TH  STREET,  NEW  YORK, 
1882. 


665844 


NOTES. 


LAST  year,  when  I  was  in  Tokio,  I  commissioned  a  Japanese 
artist  to  make  a  number  of  sketches  for  this  book,  which  I  desired 
should  be  entirely  illustrated  by  him.  He,  like  many  of  his  country- 
men, not  knowing  the  value  of  time,  delayed  his  work  until  it  was  too 
late,  and  I  was  compelled  to  obtain  some  of  the  pictures  from  other 
sources,  among  the  latter  being  a  few  from  a  charming  book  entitled 
"Our  Neighborhood,"  by  T.  A.  P.  of  Yokohama,  and  "Japan,"  by 
Sir  E.  J.  Reed.  In  making  this  acknowledgment,  I  wish  it  to  be  under- 
stood that,  while  using  the  cuts,  I  have,  in  no  instance,  drawn  upon  the 
text  of  either  of  the  volumes. 

The  design  on  the  cover  of  this  book  represents  Fitz's  dream,  as 
told  in  Chapter  VII.  The  Japanese  characters  on  the  turned-down 
page,  translate  thus:  "Boston,  Lee  and  Shepard,  Publishers,  1882," 
with  my  own  name  as  the  artist,  and  my  Japanese  kaki-han  (written 
seal).  The  large  characters  in  the  corner  read  Clio  (Wonderful)  Fn  (city) 
Tokio  (Eastern  capital). 

EDWARD    GREEY. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  THE  JEWETTS'  NEW  HOME       ......         i 

II.  ONE  OF  THE  GLORIES  OF  TOKIO       .....       20 

III.  A  VISIT  TO  A  LACQUER-MAKER        .         .         .-        .         -54 

IV.  How  THE  JAPANESE  MAKE  CHINESE  INK  ....       83 
V.     AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S  . 104 

VI.  AMONG  THE  PORCELAIN-MAKERS        .         .         .         .              157 

VII.  A  CONCERT  AT  THE  COLLEGE  OF  Music          .         .         .     192 

VIII.  A  VISIT  TO  SOME  SACRED  PLACES   .         .        .        .         .213 

IX.  A  JAPANESE  DRY-GOODS  STORE        ...                       251 

X.  HARVESTING  THE  RICE      .....                 .261 

XI.  A  RAMBLE  IN  THE  STREETS     ......     274 

XII.  PREPARING  FOR  NEW  YEAR'S  FESTIVITIES       .         .         .     291 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Concert  by  Japanese  Ladies,  Frontispiece. 

Tokio  Restaurant  ....  xiv 
The  Front  Gate  of  the  Jewetts' 

Residence I 

The  Morning  Meal  ...  4 

O  Cho  (Miss  Butterfly)  ...  5 

Choso,  the  Jin-riki-sha  Man  .  6 

Postman  .....  7 
A  View  of  Fuji-yama  through  a 

Window  painted  by  Hokusai  .  8 

Railways  of  Japan  .  .  .  .  10 
Tatsii  (Dragon),  Huo-ivo  (Heavenly 

Bird)  and  Imperial  man  (crests)  .  u 
Fire  in  Tokio  as  seen  from  the 

Bund,  Yokohama  ...  14 
Mr.  Asada  Saving  his  Household 

(jods 16 

Fleeing  from  the  Fire  .  .  .  17 
A  Scene  on  the  Sidewalk,  Tokio, 

during  a  Fire  ....  17 

Profiting  by  the  Fire  18 
Old  Sokichi  in  his  Storm-proof 

Dress  .         .         .         .         .         .  21 

Toy-maker  .....  22 

Clock-maker 23 

Japanese  Girl  Painting  her  Lip 

with  Carmine  ....  25 

Oto's  Blind  Cousin,  Miss  Taki  .  26 

Amateur  Performers  ...  27 
A  Frenchman's  Idea  of  Japanese 

Costume 31 

Kuya-shonin,  a  Famous  Priest  .  34 

Blind  Shampooer  at  Work  .  .  37 

Flute-seller 38 


PAGE 

Pipe-mender  ....  39 

Public  Story-telliT  ....  42 

Kusunoke   Masashige     ...  45 

Bewitched  by  Foxt  s        ...  47 

Collector  of  Waste  Paper       .         .  49 
Side  Entrance  to  the  Yashiki  with 

Guard-house        .        .        .        .  51 

Oto  Nambo  when  a  Boy  (1871)       .  53 

Boy  Flying  his  Kite        .         .         .  55 

Carpenters  at  Work        ...  56 

Riu-to  (Sea-god)      .         .         .         .  58 

Agricultural  Tool-seller           .         .  59 

Agricultural  Implements         .         .  61 

Tokio  News-boy     ....  63 

Tai-ko-bo 65 

Daimio  Presenting  a  Samurai  with 

a  Suit  of  Armor  ....  67 

Street  in  Asakusa,  Suburb  of  To- 
kio      ......  69 

Tento  (Heavenly  Lamp)          .         .  70 

Travelling  Toy-seller      .         .         .  71 

Ascending  Dragon          ...  73 

Paper  Butterfly-seller     ...  74 

Whistle-seller          ....  75 

Gosuke,  Johnnie's  Jin-riki-sha  Man  77 
Mura  -  saki  -  shikibu,    a    Japanese 

Poetess 78 

A  Tokio  Bank         ....  80 

Strolling  Musicians         ...  84 

Uzume  Dancing  the  Tokoyami       .  87 

Clog  Cobbler 88 

Jiu-ro  (God  of  Learning)         .         .  90 

Singing  Girl  Visiting  her  Friends  .  92 

Stone-cutters  .....  94 


Xll 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Ceremony  of  Washing  the  Infant 

Buddha 97 

Sawyer  at  Work  ....  99 
Farmers  Planting  Rice,  Suburbs  of 

Tokio ioi 

Singing  Girl  and  her  Servant          .       102 

Nobori 105 

Battledore-seller  ....  107 
Round-Fan  seller  ....  108 
Flower  Peddler  .  .  .  .no 
Kotoro-kotoro.  Game  of  Catching 

the  Child 1 1 1 

Image  of  Fuku-roku-jin,  Longevity 

God,  and  his  Attendant,  the  Stork       1 1 3 
Charming  Ants        .         .         .        .       115 

Korean  Tortoise-tamer  .        .        .       119 
Coopers  .         .         .        .        .        .120 

Sword  Juggler        .        .         .        .122 

Dealer  in  Gold-fish  .  .  .124 
Ancient  Japanese  Vase  .  .  .126 
Seller  of  Folding  Fans  .  .  .  127 
Miniature  Garden,  belonging  to 

Kimura 129 

Hot  Spring,  Tono-sawa,  Hakone    .       131 
The  Clam's   Breath,  Popular  Jap- 
anese  Idea  of  the    Cause  of  a 
Mirage         .....       133 
Wayside  Tea-house        .         .  135 

Sake'-shop 137 

Cake-seller 139 

Wine  Merchant's  Boy  .  .  .  143 
Wrestling  at  Eko-in,  Tokio  .  .  149 
Insect  Dealer  .  .  .  .150 
Shinto  Festival  .  .  .  -153 
Tortoise-Seller's  Sign  .  .  .156 
Car  Used  at  Festivals  .  .  .  1 58 
Bishamon,  God  of  Swordsmen  and 

Scholars 159 

Maker  of  Gluten  Figures       .         .       160 

Fish  Vendor 163 

Japanese  Fishes  ....  165 
Flask  Made  by  Gi-yo-gi  .  .  168 
Raku  cha-wan  (Tea-bowl  of  Raku 

Ware) 169 

Cha-ire  (Tea-jar)  Seto  Ware  .         .       170 


Fire-proof  Warehouse    .         .         .  171 
Entrance  to  Temple  Grounds,  Shi- 

ba,  Tokio 173 

Street  Toy-seller    .        .        .  174 
Daruma  .         .         .         .        .         .176 

Gaku  Dance 180 

Modern  Satsuma  Incense  Burner.  182 

An  Actor  and  his  Candle- Bearer    .  183 

Women  Planting  out  Rice      .        .  186 

Festival  of  the  God  of  Water        .  189 
Plasterers  at  Work  after  an  Earth- 
quake .         .         .         .         .         .193 

Yebis,  Brother  of  the  Sun,  God  of 

Markets 195 

Seller  of  Sea-weed  Isinglass  .  .  197 
Florist  or  Gardener  .  .  .199 
Ice-water  Seller  ....  200 
Vendor  of  Hats  .  .  .  .201 
Junks  Becalmed  in  the  Gulf  of  Os- 
aka    204 

Fortune-teller  ....  205 
Fine  Carvings  in  Ivory  .  .  .  207 
Tomb  of  a  Great  Lord  .  .  .  208 
View  of  Fuji-yama,  from  the  Sea  .  216 
Figure  of  Silence  .  .  .  .219 
Ancient  Burial  Place  of  an  Em- 
peror    220 

Temple  of  Dai-Butsu  at  Nara,  con- 
taining Gigantic  Figure  of  Bud- 
dha    221 

Writing  of  the  Present  Emperor   .  225 

Mikado's  Old  Palace,  Kioto   .        .  226 
Figures  of  Korean  Dogs,  placed  at 
the  Foot  of  the  Imperial  Throne 

at  Kioto 227 

Candy-maker 228 

Wayside  Book-store        .         .         .  229 
Country  Inn    .         .         .         .         .231 

Hairdresser  at  Work      .         .         .  233 

Street  Dancers        ....  234 

Japanese  Flying  Bridge  .         .         .  235 

Hotei,  Patron  of  Children      .         .  236 

Suspension  Bridge          .         .         .  237 

Incense  Burner,  Seto  Ware    .         .  238 

Old  Awata  Brazier  ....  239 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Xlll 


PAGE 

Yatsu-shiro  Vase     .         .                 .  240 

Agricultural  Implements         .        .  241 

Tower  of  Nagoya  Castle         .         .  243 

Shinto  Shrine          ....  245 

Sacred  Shrines  of  Ise     .         .         .  246 

Boys  Fishing .....  247 

Coasting  Junks       ....  248 
Fuji-yama,  as  Seen  from  a  Railway 

Car 249 

Gold  Fish  of  Nagoya  Castle  .        .  250 
Dry-goods  Store     .         .         .         .254 

Fruit  Peddler 256 

Lucky  Cake  Man    ....  257 

Open  Air  Drug  Store     .        .        .  259 

Fish  Seller 262 

Wet  Gods 263 

Peddler  of  Sweet  Wine  .        .        .  264 

Street  Juggler         ....  265 

Kappore 266 

Harvesting  Rice      .         .        .         .  267 

Cutting  Rice 268 


PAGE 

Rice  Cleaner  .....  269 

Side  View  of  Dai  Butsu          .         .  271 

Grave  of  Yoritomo,  at  Kamakura  .  272 

Bean  Seller     .....*  275 

Bird  Catcher 276 

Squash  Seller          ....  277 

Maker  of  Broiled  Bean  Curd          .  279 
Vendor  of  a  Hot  Infusion  of  Lo- 

quat  Leaves         ....  280 

Paper  Store 281 

Japanese  Wolf        ....  283 
Farmers  Winnowing  Rice       .         .  286 
Grinding  Rice          ....  287 
Waiter  Bringing  Buckwheat  Ver- 
micelli to  a  Restaurant        .        .  292 

Man-zai 293 

Boys  at  Play 295 

Tori-no-machi         ....  297 

Pamphlet-Seller      .         .         .  '      .  298 

Mr.  Nambo  at  Prayer     .         .         .  299 
O-wari  (the  End)     .        .         .         .301 


THE    FRONT   GATE   OF   THE  JEWETTS'    RESIDENCE. 


THE  WONDERFUL  CITY  OF  TOKIO. 


CHAPTER    I. 
THE  JEWETTS'  NEW  HOME. 

"  Every  thing  has  its  hour  of  honor.  In  January  we  bow  respectfully  to  the 
kibachi  (fire-bowl,  used  by  the  Japanese  as  a  stove);  in  August  we  ignore  its 
existence." 

PHE  old  mom-ban  (gate-keeper)  in  charge  of  the  main 
J.  entrance  to  the  Kaga  Yashiki,  in  Tokio,  was  leaning  over 
the  gate,  conversing  with  a  jin-riki-sha  man  who  had  sum- 
moned him  as  though  upon  important  business. 

"Great  Yebis  !  what  do  you  want?"  demanded  the  mom- 
ban.  "Are  you  aware  that  it  is  only  six  o'clock?  Is  your 
honorable  mother  sick,  or  are  you  crazy  ?  Nobody  .pays  visits 
at  this  hour  in  the  morning." 

The  man  bowed  and  replied  —  "Honorable  mom-ban,  I 
know  very  well  that  you  are  speaking  the  truth,  but  when  a 


2  THE    WONDERFUL.    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

Japanese  has  to  do  with  foreigners  he  must  rise  very  early. 
A  few  days  before  the  New  Year's  holiday,  I  received  a  letter 
from  the  honorable  Professor  Jewett  who  lives  in  your  yashi- 
ki. He  informed  me  that  one  of  his  sons  requires  a  strong 
jin-riki-sha  man,  and  ordered  me  to  call  on  him  as  soon  as 
the  festival  was  over.  This  is  the  eleventh  day  of  the  first 
month,  and  I  am  here." 

Thus  speaking  he  looked  up  at  the  heavy  tiled  roof  of  the 
ancient  gateway,  and  said  in  a  sort  of  aside: 

"Ah!  there  was  a  time  when  this  yashiki  contained  some- 
thing better  than  a  lot  of  foreigners." 

The  mom-ban  twitched  his  mouth  and  said  —  "You  are 
a  nice  sort  of  fellow  to  talk  thus  about  your  prospective 
employers.  I  can  tell  you  one  thing,  the  Americans  are  good 
people.  They  are  exceedingly  polite,  give  many  presents, 
and  do  not  cause  me  any  trouble.  Professor  Jewett  is  a  very 
learned  man,  and  his  wife  is  a  most  charitable  lady.  As  to 
his  boys,  Johnnie  and  Fitz,  they  are  amiable  enough  to  be 
Japanese,  and  their  sister  is  a  perfect  angel." 

The  jin-riki-sha  man  chuckled,  and  nodding,  said, — 
"Now,  honorable  Mr.  Mom-ban,  after  that,  perhaps,  you  will 
let  me  in." 

The  keeper  unfastened  a  bolt,  swung  open  the  heavy  gate 
and  admitted  the  man,  who,  glancing  at  some  horses,  feeding 
under  a  shed,  demanded,  —  "To  whom  do  those  beautiful 
creatures  belong?" 

TTo  the  chief  foreign  doctor  and  his  assistants,"  answered 
the  mom-ban.  "I  suppose  you  know  that  the  government 
hospital  is  in  this  yashiki  ?  The  great  doctor  sends 
his  animals  here  while  he  makes  his  first  tour  of  inspec- 
tion." 

The    visitor    smiled    and    said,  —  "These    foreign    doctors 


THE  JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME.  3; 

are  teaching  our  people  wonderful  things.  Is  it  true  they 
can  cut  a  man's  head  off  and  replace  it  without  injuring 
him?" 

The  mom-ban  scratched  his  ear,  looked  puzzled,  and  re- 
plied, — "  Well,  I  do  not  believe  they  can  quite  do  that.  I 
think  when  a  man's  head  is  once  off,  not  even  a  foreign  doctor 
can  put  it  on  again.  Now  go  into  the  yashiki,  take  the  road 
to  the  left,  and  stop  at  the  first  house  —  that  is  the  residence 
of  Professor  Jewett." 

The  coolie  passed  through  the  little  side  doorway  of  the 
great  gate,  and  found  himself  in  the  yashiki  (park-like  enclos- 
ure in  which  formerly  stood  the  residences  of  the  lord  of  Kaga 
and  his  retainers).  The  ground  was  frozen  hard  and  the  air 
was  cool  and  bracing.  Upon  reaching  the  professor's  house, 
a  large,  one-storied  dwelling  surrounded  with  a  neat  bamboo 
fence,  he  went  to  the  rear  entrance,  and  peeped  into  the  ser- 
vants' quarters,  where  he  saw  five  Japanese  men  and  two- 
women  squatting  on  the  floor,  partaking  of  their  asa-meshi 
(first  meal)  which  consisted  of  rice,  tea  and  fish. 

He  stood  for  several  moments  watching  them,  being  too* 
polite  to  interrupt  the  party,  Who  were  busily  engaged  in 
emptying  their  bowls  with  their  hashi  (chopsticks). 

"For  my  part,"  said  the  kashi-ra  (steward),  taking  his 
chopsticks  and  picking  some  salted  salmon  from  a  dish,  "  I 
think  our  young  masters  are  just  like  nobles.  I  would  do 
anything  to  serve  them." 

' 'Hail  hail"  (yes,  yes)  said  the  others.     r<rYou  are  right." 

"  A  thousand  pardons,"  murmured  the  jin-riki-sha  man, 
coughing  in  order  to  attract  attention.  "Is  this  the  honorable 
house  of  His  Excellency  the  Professor  Jewett?" 

On  seeing  him  the  servants  put  down  their  bowls  and 
chopsticks,  and  bowed  until  their  heads  touched  the  matted 


THE  JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME. 


floor,  then  the  steward  said,  —  "You  are  correct.  This  is  the 
place.  Honorable  Mr.  Choso,  I  hope  I  have  the  pleasure  of 
seeing  you  in  the  possession  of  good  health." 

The  new  arrival  bowed  and  answered,  —  "Your  solicitude 
for  my  welfare  af- 
fords me  the  great- 
est happiness.  I 
hope  your  health  is 
of  the  very  best.'' 

"Will  you  con- 
descend to  come 
in,  and  partake  of 
our  m  i  s  e  rab  1  e 
fare  ? "  said  the 
chief  servant.  "If 
we  had  known  you 
were  coming,  we 
would  have  pre- 
pared something 
more  worthy  of 
you."' 

After  many  fine 
speeches  on  both 
sides,  the  jin-riki- 
sha  man  slipped  orf 
his  sandals,  and, 
joining  the  group, 
was  assisted  to  the  food. 

While  they  were  enjoying  themselves,  a  maid  servant 
entered  and  said  to  the  steward,  —  "Master  Fitz  wishes  to 
know  whether  ti\e  jiri-rikt-sha  man  has  come  yet?" 

"Yes,   O-Cho    San,    (Miss   Butterfly)    he  is   here,"   replied 


O-CHO  (MISS  BUTTERFLY). 


6  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

the  steward,  pointing  to  the  man,  who  was  thrusting  lumps  of 
cold  boiled  rice  down  his  throat  with  his  chopsticks.  :t  When 
he  has  refreshed  himself  he  will  pay  his  respects  to  the  honor- 
able O-bosan  (master-boys)." 

The  girl  waited  until  the  coolie  had  several  times  emptied 
his  bowl,  after  which  she  led  the  way  into  the  portion  of  the 
house  occupied  by  her  employers,  and  bidding  the  man  stay 
in  the  library,  retired. 

Although  there  were  chairs   in  the  apartment,  the   coolie 
squatted  on  his  heels  and  remained  thus  until  Johnnie  and  Fitz 
Jewett  entered   the  room,  when  he   bowed 
his  head  to  the  ground  and  waited  for  them 
to  speak. 

"Hullo!"  cried   Fitz  in   English,  "here 
is  one  of  the  old  timers!      He   will    not  be 
so  polite   after  he   has  been   in    my  service 
a  month." 
CHOSO,  THE  JIN-KIK.I-  "Hush!"  said  Johnnie,    then,    speaking 

SHA    MAN.  ,       . 

to  the  man  in  Japanese,  he  demanded, — 
<?Are  you  the  person  to  whom  my  father  wrote?" 

The  fellow  bowed  again  and,  smiling,  said,— 

"  I  am  Choso.  Your  honorable  father  wrote  me  that  you 
wished  a  strong,  active,  vigorous,  honest  person  to  draw  your 
jin-riki-sha.  I  can  heartily  recommend  myself." 

"  I  should  think  so,"  said  Fitz.  "  I  imagine  that  you  do  not 
require  any  references.  Well,  how  much  wages  do  you  ask? 
I  want  to  be  taken  about  the  city  quickly." 

The  man  stated  that  his  pay  was  ten  paper  yen  (about  five 
dollars  a  month),  for  which  sum  he  would  agree  to  be  at  the 
boys' service  from  six  in  the  morning  until  eight  at  night.  Fitz 
engaged  Choso,  and  told  him  to  go  into  the  stable  and  clean 
his  jin-riki-sha,  which  had  not  been  used  for  several  days. 


THE    JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME. 


As  the  coolie  departed,  Sallie  came  out  of  her  room, 
saying,  — 

"  Boys,  the  yu-bin  hai-tatsu  jin  (postman)  is  coming  up 
the  avenue.  I  hope  he  has  a  letter  for  me  from  Yokohama." 

In  another  moment  they  saw  the  object  of  her  remark 
trotting  up  the  pathway.  He  was  dressed  in  a  sort  of  uniform- 
jacket,  a  bamboo  hat  covered 
with  black  oiled  paper, 
white  trowsers,  and  straw 
sandals,  and  carried  a 
leathern  bag  slung  over  his 
shoulders. 

Sallie  waited  until  the 
man  had  entered  the  veran- 
da, then,  opening  the  front 
door,  inquired  in  Japanese, 
"  Anything  for  me,  Post- 
man?" 

The  carrier  squatted  on 
the  door-mat,  unlocked  his 
bag,  produced  several  let- 
ters, and  handing  them  to 
the  girl,  replied,  "One  is 
registered;  please  sign  the 
receipt  wrapped  about  it." 

She  did  as  he  requested,  and  in  a  few  moments  he  was  up  and 
away  again,  running  like  a  deer  to  the  next  house  in  the 
yashiki. 

As  Sallie  sorted  the  letters,  Fitz  opened  a  sliding  window, 
and  glancing  out,  said,  — 

"Look,  there  is  Fuji-yama.  It  is  the  first  time  I  have 
seen  it  for  several  days." 


POSTMAN. 


A   VIEW   OF   FUJI-YAMA   THROUGH    A    WINDOW,    PAINTED   BY    HOKUSAI. 


THE    JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME.  9 

"I  never  behold  the  mountain  thus,  without  thinking  of 
Hokusai'S  picture,"  gravely  observed  Johnnie. 

:?  Yes,  I  remember,"  answered  Sallie.  "  The  one  where  the 
servant  with  the  duster  in  his  girdle,  is  represented  as  raising 
the  paper  window  and  revealing  the  sacred  mountain  to  the 
gaze  of  his  astonished  master,  who  is  so  amazed  that  he  upsets 
his  tobacco-box,  and  drops  his  pipe.  Some  Japanese  say  that 
the  kakemono  (hanging  picture)  was  invented  by  the  person 
depicted  in  Hokusai's  painting." 

"Oh,  you  little  goose,  Sallie  Jewett!"  shouted  Fitz. 
c  The  kakemono  was  invented  by  the  Chinese,  long  before  the 
Japanese  ever  thought  of  it.  Come,  tell  us  from  whom  your 
letter  is." 

"  It  is  from  Miss  Sherman,"  answered  the  girl,  rapidly 
scanning  the  note.  "  She  wishes  us  to  go  down  to  Yokohama 
to  witness  the  amateur  theatricals.  What  do  you  say,  boys? 
Shall  we  ask  father  and  mother?" 

T  Yes,  yes,"  said  Fitz.  "  It  will  be  good  fun,  particularly 
as  Miss  Sherman  is  to  take  a  part  in  the  performance." 

The  professor  and  his  wife  readily  gave  their- consent,  and 
that  afternoon  Fitz,  Sallie,  and  Johnnie  went  down  to  the 
Shin-bashi  railway  station  and  started  for  the  settlement. 

On  board  the  cars  they  met  the  chief  inspector  of  the  line, 
a  very  gentlemanly  Japanese,  who  chatted  with  them  about  the 
railways  of  his  country,  saying,  — 

:f  This  road  has  been  a  great  success,  and  the  one  from 
Kobe  to  Kioto  is  paying  well.  We  have  other  railways  pro- 
jected. Here  is  a  map  that  will  show  you  what  we  intend  to 
do.  The  heavy  strokes  denote  the  lines  already  in  existence, 
the  light  ones  those  in  progress  of  construction,  and  the  dotted 
tracks  the  ones  we  propose  to  build  as  soon  as  we  can  afford 
to  make  the  outlay." 


10 


THE   WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


:f  Your  government  is  very  poor,  is  it  not?"  coolly  inquired 
Fitz. 

rt  Yes,"  replied  the  official.  "  The  foreigners  drained  our 
country  of  nearly  all  its  gold,  and  made  treaties  that  have  pre- 
vented us  from  taxing  our  imports.  These  reasons,  and  the 
expenses  of  a  prolonged  civil  war,  have  forced  us  to  use  paper 
currency,  the  value  of  which  has  become  greatly  depre- 
ciated." 


RAILWAYS    OF   JAPAN. 

"Don't  you  be  down-hearted,"  said  Fitz.  "We  had  the 
same  experience  in  the  States.  Your  silver  dollar  has  never 
been  worth  above  one  hundred  and  eighty  cents  paper. 
During  the  war  our  currency  was  very  much  more  depreci- 
ated than  yours  has  ever  been." 

"Yes,"  sadly  replied    the  gentleman;    "I  know  that,  but 


THE    JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME. 


II 


you  had  all  the  resources  of  the  finest  country  in  the  world 
to  back  your  promise  to  pay."  Producing  a  one  yen  kinsatsu 
(paper  dollar)  he  continued:  "  I  do  not  see  how  we  shall  ever 
redeem  this  in  sterling." 

Johnnie  glanced  at  the  bank  note,  then  inquired,  —  "Why 
do  you  have  these  emblems  on  your  greenbacks  ?  " 


TATSU  (DRAGON),  HUO-WO  (HEAVENLY  BIRD),  AND  IMPERIAL  MON  (CRESTS). 

"  For  the  same  reason  that  you  use  the  American  eagle  on 
your  money,"  answered  the  gentleman.  :c  The  round  mon  is 
the  official  crest  of  the  mikado,  and  represents  the  imperial 
chrysanthemum ;  the  one  below  it  is  the  kiri-mon,  his  majesty's 


12  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

private  crest.  The  tatsu  (dragon)  and  the  huo-ivo  (heavenly 
bird)  are  always  used  as  imperial  insignia." 

"My  goodness!"  ejaculated  Fitz.  "What  a  queer-looking 
bird  the  huo-ivo  is?" 

"  It  is  not  half  so  comical  as  the  eagle  on  our  new  dollar," 
quietly  remarked  Sallie.  "  I  think  the  hito-ivo  is  quite  too 
utterly  beautiful,  and,  though  it  may  be  an  imaginary  creature, 
it  is  very  decorative." 

The  Japanese  gentleman  smiled  good-humoredly,  and  re- 
plied, — 

:t  Yes,  both  of  our  national  birds  are  too,  too  inexpressibly 
precious;"  adding,  as  the  train  stopped,  "Here  we  are  at 
Yokohama." 

In  another  moment  they  were  on  the  platform  of  the  depot. 
The  second-class  Japanese  passengers  made  a  terrible  clatter 
with  their  clogs  as  they  disembarked  from  the  cars  and  moved 
over  the  pavement,  so  the  young  Americans,  who  dreaded 
having  their  toes  trodden  on  by  the  wooden-shod  feet,  hurried 
ahead  and  gave  up  their  tickets  at  the  turnstile  before  the 
crowd  came.  Two  minutes  afterwards  they  were  \\\  jin-riki- 
sha  on  the  way  to  their  friend's  house  upon  the  Bluff. 

Miss  Sherman  gave  the  Jewetts  a  cordial  welcome,  and 
made  them  feel  thoroughly  at  home. 

"What  part  do  you  take  in  the  performance?"  inquired 
Fitz.  "Cannot  I  help  you?." 

The  young  lady  laughed  and  replied,  —  "I  am  much 
obliged,  but  I  hope  I  shall  not  require  any  assistance.  All  I 
want  is  your  kind  encouragement." 

Soon  afterwards  her  father  arrived  from  his  office,  and 
when  he  had  shaken  hands  with  the  visitors,  told  them  that 
every  ticket  for  the  entertainment  had  been  sold. 

About   seven    o'clock  they   summoned    their  jin-riki-sha 


THE    JEWETTS     NEW    HOME.  13 

and  were  trundled  down  to  the  theatre,  a  dismal-looking 
stone  building  that  had  once  been  a  tea-warehouse. 

Precisely  at  eight  the  curtain  rose  upon  Byron's  comedy  of 
"Young  Men  and  Old  Acres,"  and  Johnnie,  Fitz  and  Sallie,  for 
the  first  time  in  their  lives  witnessed  a  theatrical  performance. 

The  acting  was  most  excellent,  the  ladies  being  particu- 
larly well  up  in  their  parts,  and  as  much  at  home  on  the  stage 
as  professionals. 

Johnnie  looked  on  with  a  grave,  interested  face,  Sallie 
sympathized  with  all  the  actors  in  turn,  and  Fitz  uttered  his 
opinions  in  very  loud  asides  that  greatly  amused  both  audi- 
ence and  performers. 

Miss  Sherman  took  the  part  of  the  servant  maid,  and  had 
to  deliver  a  speech  ending  with, — 

"Oh  dear!  I'm  afraid  I  have  failed  in  my  efforts  to  please 
you!" 

Fitz,  who  had  watched  her  with  open-mouthed  admiration, 
rose,  smiled  at  her  encouragingly,  nodded,  and  said,  — "Don't 
you  worry,  Miss  Sherman.  Keep  right  on  and  speak  your 
piece;  3-011  have  done  as  well  as  any  of  them." 

This  caused  every  one  in  the  house  to  laugh,  and  the 
young  lady  to  bow  her  thanks.  Before  their  merriment  had 
subsided  they  heard  shouts  outside,  and  the  Japanese  crying, — 
«Kaji!  Kctji!  Kaji!  (Fire!  Fire!  Fire!"). 

The  audience  rose  en  masse,  and  the  actors  quitted  the 
stage  in  their  costumes;  everybody  imagining  that  the  neigh- 
boring buildings  were  in  flames.  On  reaching  the  street  they 
saw  a  brilliant  light  in  the  direction  of  Tokio  and  learned 
that  the  conflagration  was  in  that  city. 

"  Let  us  go  down  on  the  Bund,"  said  Mr.  Sherman,  wrap- 
ping a  cloak  round  his  daughter.  "If  the  fire  is  of  any  impor- 
tance, we  shall  get  a  good  view  of  it  from  there." 


14  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

They  found  their  jin-riki-sha  among  a  mass  of  those 
vehicles  and  were  soon  on  their  way  to  the  stone  sea-wall  that 
protects  the  front  of  the  settlement  of  Yokohama.  Looking 
up  the  Bay  of  Yeddo,  they  beheld  a  line  of  fire  which  ap- 
peared to  extend  along  the  entire  water  front  of  the  city  of 
Tokio. 

"Oh!  poor  papa  and  mamma!  "  ejaculated  Sallie.  "I  am 
afraid  they  will  be  burnt.  We  must  go  to  their  rescue." 

"Yes,"  said  Fitz,  whose  face  betrayed  his  anxiety.     "Come, 


FIRE   IN   TOKIO,   AS   SEEN    FROM   THE   BUND,    YOKOHAMA. 

Johnnie,  what  are  you  looking  at?     We  have  not  a  moment  to 
lose." 

John,  who  always  took  a  practical  view  of  things,  calmly 
regarded  the  lurid  line,  and  said, — 

"  I  do  not  think  our  parents  are  in  any  danger,  still,  on 
such  a  night  as  this,  I  reckon  they  would  like  to  have  us  with 
them.  The  next  train  does  not  start  for  nearly  an  hour,  so  it 
is  no  use  hurrying  ourselves." 

"Do  let  us  go  at  once,"  urged  Sallie.  "I  cannot  bear  to 
remain  here." 

'The  fire  is  crossing  the  river,"  said  an  English  merchant 


THE    JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME.  15 

who  wore  a  pith  helmet,  and  who  had  been  attentively  watch- 
ing the  blaze  through  an  opera  glass.  "  It  began  near  the 
Eitai-bashi  and  is  now  burning  the  shipping  lying  near  the 
bridge.  In  a  few  moments  it  will  reach  a  district  where  it 
will  not  stop  for  want  of  old  houses  to  feed  on." 

The  spectators,  among  whom  were  many  Chinese,  regarded 
the  scene  with  the  greatest  interest,  most  of  them  having 
friends  or  business  connections  in  the  capital. 

"  Oh,  boys,  do  let  us  go  home,"  said  Sallie,  in  an  agonized 
tone.  "  Supposing  the  wind  changes,  and  the  fire  goes  to- 
wards our  yashiki.  You  will  excuse  us  for  not  staying  at  your 
house  all  night,  won't  you,  Miss  Sherman?" 

"  Certainly,"  replied  the  young  lady.  "  I  think  you  are 
quite  right  to  return  to  your  parents." 

The  crowd  was  so  dense  that  the  jin-riki-sha  men  with 
difficulty  forced  a  way  for  their  vehicles;  however,  by  dint  of 
shouting  and  pushing,  they  contrived  to  effect  a  passage  and 
to  reach  the  railway  depot  in  time  for  their  fares  to  catch  a 
special  train,  which  was  densely  packed  with  people  anxious 
to  visit  the  fire. 

r  This  way,  this  way,  boys,"  cried  their  friend  the  superin- 
tendent of  the  line,  coming  to  their  rescue.  "I  have  an  empty 
carriage  which  will  be  attached  to  the  outgoing  train.  Come 
across  the  track  with  me  and  I  will  give  you  a  compartment 
all  to  yourselves.  I  am  going  to  Tokio  with  you." 

In  a  few  minutes  they  were  off,  travelling  as  fast  as  steam 
could  carry  them,  and  within  half  an  hour  they  arrived  at  the 
Shin-bashi  station. 

Upon  emerging  on  the  street  they  beheld  a  young  Japanese 
dressed  in  foreign  costume,  minus  his  shoes,  his  feet  being 
shod  with  one  sandal  and  one  wooden  clog,  and  his  shoulders 
burdened  with  packages  secured  with  cord.  In  his  right  hand 


i6 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


he  carried  a  Japanese  paper  parasol  and  his  boots,  and  in  his 
left  an  American  umbrella,  a  Japanese  sword,  and  a  pith 
helmet,  while  on  his  head,  was  perched  a  tall  silk  hat.  Upon 
seeing  the  boys,  he  shouted  in  English,  —  "I  just  managed  to 
save  my  household  gods!  I  have  been  burnt  out  twice  to- 
night. A  pretty  big  fire,  was  it  not?  Half  the  city  is  gone." 

"Pooh!  "said  Fitz.  "It  is 
nothing  to  what  we  have  in  the 
States.  Come,  Sallie,  here's  a 
''riki-sha  for  you,  get  in." 

The  young  Japanese,  who 
had  been  educated  at  Harvard, 
and  had  known  the  boys  at 
home,  bowed  as  politely  as 
his  load  would  allow  him,  and 
entered  the  depot. 

"Who  is  that  gentleman?" 
inquired  Sallie,  as  Johnnie  ad- 
justed the  rug  round  her  feet. 
"That  is  Mr.  Asada,"  re- 
plied her  brother.  "  When  he 
was  at  college,  the  boys  used  to  make  fun  of  him  about  his  silk 
hat,  and  say  that  he  wore  it  in  bed." 

"He  has  saved  it  anyhow,"  said  his  sister.  "Come,  brother, 
I  feel  terribly  anxious.  Do  let  us  hurry  home." 

As  they  passed  through  the  streets,  they  met  people  fleeing 
from  the  conflagration,  some  of  them  having  their  entire 
household  goods  packed  on  a  kuruma  (hand-cart),  with  the 
baby  perched  on  top  of  the  pile,  and  others,  like  Mr.  Asada, 
laden  with  their  worldly  effects.  Officials  wearing  Derby  hats 
and  Japanese  clothes  were  rushing  along  at  a  rapid  pace,  their 
bearers  shouting,  Hail  hail  hail  (look  out). 


MR.    ASADA,    SAVING   HIS   HOUSEHOLD 
GOODS. 


THE    JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME. 


FLEEING    FROM    THE    FIRE. 

The  Jewetts,  after  traversing  several  streets,  were  stopped 
by  a  crowd  of  vehicles,  and  compelled  to  halt  for  a  few 
moments.  On  the  sidewalk  on  their  right,  was  a  Japanese 


A    SCENE    ON    THE    SIDEWALK,    TOKIO,    DURING    A    FIRE. 

family,  who  had  fled  from  the  burnt  district,  and  camped  for 
the  night  under  the  shelter  of  a  wooden  fence. 

The    unfortunate    people    had    saved    a    folding    screen,    u 


i8 


THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


couple  of  wadded  quilts,  a  paper  umbrella,  and  a  few  house- 
hold utensils,  and  were  squatting  on  the  spread  out  bed-furni- 
ture, nursing  two  children,  who  were  laughing  and  chatting  as 
though  they  were  in  a  house. 

ff  Here  comes  honorable  husband,"  said  one  of  the  women 
to  the  other.  T  Thank  the  gods,  he  has  found  honorable 
mother!  " 

As    she    spoke,  a    coolie    appeared,    staggering   under  the 
'—~z  weight  of  an  old  woman,  whose  head 
^ —  was  tied  up  with  a  handkerchief.    He 
deposited  her  gently  upon  the  quilt, 
and  Sal  lie  and  the  boys  saw  him  and 
the  women  carefully  tend  the  dame, 
who  evidently  had  been  more  fright- 
ened than  hurt. 

rt  What  are  those  fellows  carrying 
in  their  little  tubs?"  asked  Sallie, 
pointing  to  a  number  of  men  running 
hither  and  thither  as  though  convey- 
ing something  of  great  importance. 


Those  are  wet-mud    men,"  said 


PROFITING    BY    THE    FIRE. 


Johnnie.  "When  a  conflagration 
breaks  out,  the  Japanese  always  close  their  fire-proof  houses 
and  fill  the  crevices  with  clay  obtained  from  the  canals.  Those 
coolies  are  reaping  a  harvest." 

The  whole  city  was  in  confusion,  the  fire  having  swept 
back  towards  the  north,  and  caused  a  scare  in  a  new  quarter. 
It  was  past  midnight  before  the  young  folks  arrived  at  the  Kaga 
Yashiki.  As  the  old  mom-ban  admitted  them,  he  said, — 

rf  Honorable  master  boys,  it  is  good  you  have  returned. 
When  a  fire  starts  in  this  city  there  is  no  knowing  where  it 
will  run  to." 


THE    JEWETTS'    NEW    HOME.  19 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jewett  welcomed  their  children,  and  they  all 
retired  to  bed.  Within  half  an  hour  silence  reigned  in  the 
house,  while  in  the  distant  part  of  the  'city,  the  flames  leaped 
from  dwelling  to  dwelling,  and  before  morning,  had  rendered 
over  five  thousand  people  homeless. 

When  the  boys  rose,  they  saw  that  the  ground  was  covered 
with  snow,  and  that  the  laborers  employed  in  the  yashiki 
were  wearing  mino  (waterproof  cloaks  made  of  straw)  and 
storm  hats. 

'*  There  is  old  Sokichi,"  said  Johnnie;  pointing  to  a  coolie, 
who  carried  a  tem-bin-bo  (bearing-pole)  over  his  shoulder, 
and  who,  on  seeing  them,  smiled  a  recognition. 

"  Hullo,  Sokichi,"  cried  Fitz.     K  Is  the  fire  out  yet?" 

The  man  nodded,  and  replied  good  humoredly,  —  "  The 
cold-rain  god  and  the  fire  god  had  a  wrestling  bout  last  night 
but  the  former  conquered."  Laughing  merrily, — "Oh!  he  is 
worth  all  the  fire-companies  in  Tokio." 

"  Is  the  snow  very  deep?  "  asked  Johnnie. 

*Yes,  there  has  been  quite  a  fall,"  answered  the  man. 
Then  pointing  to  an  artificial  mountain  in  the  centre  of  the 
yashiki,  he  added,  —  "Now  you  can  get  out  your  sort  (sleds) 
and  amuse  yourselves  by  sliding  down  the  yama.  Make  the 
most  of  the  beautiful  snow,  master-boys,  for  it  will  not  last 
very  long.  Before  the  end  of  the  week  everybody  will  be 
going  to  see  the  Ume  yashiki  (plum  garden)  of  Kamedo." 


20  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


CHAPTER   II. 

ONE     OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO. 

When  I  look  upon  the  red  and  white  clusters  of  the  plum  blossoms, 
I  think  of  the  brave  Tokiwa,  wife  of  Yoshetomo,  fleeing  before  the  soldiers  of  the 
Taira. 

rPHIS  was  sung  in  Japanese,  by  Dr.  Oto  Nambo,  one  morn- 
J.    ing  in   February,  as  he  stood  with  his   friends,  the  Jewetts, 
.admiring  a  plum-tree  that  was  blossoming  in  their  garden. 

f?What  do  you  mean,  Oto?"  asked  Sallie.  "I  cannot  see 
the  connection  between  the  flight  of  Tokiwa  and  the  red  and 
white  plum  blossoms." 

The  young  doctor  smiled  and  said,  —  "I  thought  every 
one  knew  that.  When  Tokiwa  fled  from  Utsumi,  the  snow 
was  deep  upon  the  ground.  She  had  one  child,  Yositsune,  in 
the  bosom  of  her  robe,  and  she.  held  the  hand  of  another, 
while  the  third  followed,  bearing  his  father's  sword.  As  she 
walked,  she  left  crimsoned  imprints  of  her  wounded  feet  in 
the  snow.  The  poem  I  have  just  sung,  refers  to  that  incident, 
and  indirectly  to  the  name  of  the  war.  — f  The  struggle  of  the 
Red  and  White.' " 

rf  How  is  it  that  you  have  both  colored  blossoms  on  one 
tree?"  demanded  Fitz.  tr  I  have  never  seen  them  in  the 
States." 

Oto  chuckled  quietly  and  said,  —  "I  am  glad  you  allow 
that  we  have  something  you  do  not.  The  red  plum  blossom 
is  a  very  beautiful  object,  and  is  grafted  on  the  stock  of  the 
white  flowered  tree,  so  as  to  produce  a  contrast.  Would  you 
like  to  go  out  to  the  Ume-yashiki,  and  see  the  blossoms  in  all 
their  glory?  " 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO. 


21 


"  I  think  we 
could  walk  there," 
said  the  profes- 
sor; "the  snow  has 
all  gone,  and  I  love 
to  see  the  sights  of 
this  wonderful 
city." 

They  set  out 
together,  the  boys 
going  first  with 
Oto,  and  Sallie  fol- 
lowing with  her 
parents. 

Just  outside  the 
yashiki,  they  saw 
an  orno-cJia-ya  (toy 
maker)  and  his  son 
working  in  a  store, 
which,  notwith- 
standing the  cool- 
ness of  the  weather, 
was  open  to  the 
street. 

"Why  do  you 
not  invent  some- 
thing new?"  asked 
Fitz  of  the  man,who 
was  putting  the  fin- 
ishing touches  to  a 
rattle  representing 
the  god  Daruma. 


OLD    SOKICHI,    IN    HIS    STORM-PROOF   DRESS 


22 


THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


The  operator  smiled  good-temperedly,  and  said,  —  "Invent 
something,  O  bo-sanf  Oh,  that  would  be  useless!  I  have  a 
beautiful  neko  (cat)  with  a  red  collar  round  its  neck,  lovely 
doves  with  peas  in  their  insides,  fish,  irises,  and  these  hand- 
some Daruma." 


TOV    MAKKR. 


T  Yes,  yes,"  added  the  man's  son,  who  was  busily  engaged 
varnishing  the  figures;  ff  that  is  so.  Nobody  in  Tokio  makes 
better  toys  than  my  honorable  father." 

As  he  spoke  he  inserted  the  handle  of  the  figure  in  the 
straw-filled  tub,  and  taking  up  another  of  the  toys,  fitted  a 
stick  in  its  base  and  continued  his  occupation. 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  23 

"Let  us  go  on,"  said  Sallie.  "I  am  afraid  we  shall  be 
poisoned  by  the  lacquer." 

A  little  further  down  the  street  they  stopped  before  the 
workshop  of  a  toke-shi  (clock-maker),  who  was  engaged  in 
repairing  a  native  time-piece.  This  was  a  very  simple  affair, 
consisting  of  a  few  cogged  wheels  and  a  leaden  weight 
enclosed  in  an  oblong  box.  He  squatted  behind  a  piece  of 


CLOCKMAKEK. 

iron,  that  served  him  as  an  anvil,  and  was  examining  a  wheel 
through  a  magnifying  glass. 

"  Good  morning,"  said  Fitz.  rr  You  seem  to  be  puzzled, 
Mr.  Clockmaker." 

r'Yes,  I  am,"  replied  the  mechanic.  "I  have  bought 
some  ready-made  works  in  Yokohama,  and  I  do  believe  they 
were  cut  out  by  machinery.  Will  you  kindly  translate  the 
inscription  on  this?" 

The  boy  took  the  wheel,  and  after  looking  at  it,  said, — 

w  It  is  stamped  '  American  Clock  Company,  New  York.'" 


24  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Well!  well!"  murmured  the  man,  receiving  back  the 
piece  and  bowing.  "  After  this  I  am  going  to  give  up  my 
business,  and  intend  to  peddle  foreign  time-pieces.  It  would 
take  me  a  week  to  make  such  a  wheel  as  this.  I  suppose  your 
machines  would  manufacture  one  in  a  day." 

"In  a  clay!  ?'  cried  the  boy.  "Why,  our  machines  would 
turn  out  a  thousand  such  things  in  an  hour." 

The  artisan  looked  incredulous,  picked  up  his  pipe, 
lighted  it,  and  said,  — 

"I  like  to  hear  wonderful  stories!  Of  course  I  am  only  an 
ignorant  man,  still  you  need  not  make  fun  of  me." 

r  That  is  true,"  said  the  clockmaker's  daughter,  who  was 
kneeling  before  a  metal  mirror  at  the  far  end  of  the  store. 
"  It  is  very  easy  to  tell  my  honorable  father  such  things,  but  we 
cannot  comprehend  them." 

She  took  a  brush,  dipped  it  in  a  pot  containing  beni  (car- 
mine), and  applied  it  to  her  lower  lips. 

r"  Why  do  you  paint  yourself  there?  "  inquired  Sallie. 

"  Because  all  our  ladies  do  so,"  merrily  replied  the  girl. 
r  We  put  the  beni  on  our  lower  lip  and  you  put  it  on  your 
cheeks.  If  I  did  not  do  this,  nobody  would  think  anything  of 
me." 

She  was  very  bright  and  intelligent,  so  they  chatted  with 
her  for  a  while,  then  quitted  the  spot  and  walked  on  until  they 
reached  a  bridge,  where  they  saw  a  tall  coolie  pulling  a  little 
jin-riki-shd)  containing  a  young  lady. 

'That  is  one  of  my  cousins,  O-Taki,"  said  Oto.  "She  is 
blind.  Wait  a  moment,  I  will  speak  to  her." 

The  coolie  stopped,  and  Oto  introduced  his  friends  to  the 
girl,  who  said, — 

"  I  have  been  to  Kamedo  to  see  the  plum-blossoms.  The 
flowers  are  very  fine  this  year.  I  am  sure  you  will  greatly 
enjoy  the  sight." 


JAPANESE   GIRL    PAIXTIXG    HER    LIPS. 


26 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


She  bade  them  saionara  (farewell),  and  opening  her  pa- 
per parasol,  told  her  man  to  go  on. 

?r  Poor  cousin,"  said  Oto.  "  Hers  is  indeed  an  affliction. 
She  was  born  blind,  yet  talks  as  though  she  could  see.  That 
is  the  way  with  many  persons  who  are  deprived  of  their  sight. 


OTO  S    BLIND    COUSIN,    MISS    TAKI. 

She  touches  and  smells  the  flowers,  and  enjoys  that  almost  as 
much  as  seeing  them." 

After  they  had  passed  the  bridge,  they  heard  the  noise  of 
music,  and  noticed  a  little  crowd  gathered  before  a  house  in 
which  a  girl  was  practising  dancing,  and  two  women  were 
playing  an  accompaniment. 

'"  Let  us  stop  a  moment,  mamma,"  begged  Sallie. 


28  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  elder  of  the  musicians  had  two  instruments  called 
tsudzumi,  one  of  which  she  held  over  her  right  shoulder,  and 
the  other  under  her  left  arm.  The  younger  played  the 
samisen  (guitar)  with  a  piece  of  ivory,  shaped  like  a  fan.  The 
dancer  performed  some  graceful  evolutions  that  quite  pleased 
the  spectators,  then  suddenly,  the  trio  began  to  sing. 

Oh,  dear!  "  exclaimed  Mrs.  Jewett.  "Let  us  move  on. 
I  knew  the}'  were  going  to  do  it!  Their  dancing  is  pretty 
enough,  but  why  do  they  not  learn  our  music?" 

"I  am  sure  we  are  endeavoring  to  do  so,"  smilingly  replied 
Oto.  "  Have  we  not  a  musical  college  in  the  Kaga  yashiki, 
and  good  Professor  Luther  W.  Mason  to  teach  our  rising 
generation  what  you  call  music.  We  are  doing  our  level  best 
to  civilize  ourselves  after  the  American  fashion/' 

"Just  listen  to  them,"  said  the  Professor,  who  was  regard- 
ing the  performance  with  profound  attention.  "There  is  a 
world  of  meaning  in  their  songs.  Fitz,  you  have  a  quick  ear, 
what  does  the  sound  convey  to  you?" 

The  boy  laughed  and  bluntly  responded,  — 

"Well,  sir,  they  are  saying  that  the  mist  vanishes  swiftly 
before  the  glory  of  the  rising  sun,  but,  if  I  did  not  know  the 
language,  I  should  imagine  they  had  eaten  some  unripe  fruit 
and  were  describing  their  symptoms.*' 

"Fitz,"  sternly  replied  his  father;  "do  not  indulge  in 
levity.  The  music  of  the  Japanese  is  a  study  well  worthy  of 
your  attention." 

The  boy  looked  very  penitent,  and  as  he  quitted  the  place, 
said, — 

"  I  did  not  intend  to  be  disrespectful,  sir.  I  only  said  what 
I  thought." 

"  He  is  quite  right,"  remarked  Mrs.  Jewett.  f  Their  songs 
sound  more  like  the  wail  of  an  agonized  spirit  than  anything  I 
ever  heard." 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  29 

A  little  further  on  they  beheld  a  Tsu  ktiri-banauri  (arti- 
ficial flower-seller)  who  was  perched  on  a  cane-seated  stool 
near  a  stand  containing  his  wares.  He  was  a  very  waggish 
fellow,  and  had  something  to  say  to  every  one  who  went  by. 

:?  Will  you  purchase  these  beautiful  hair-pins?  "  he  said  to 
a  young  lady,  extending  a  bunch  of  artificial  plum-blossoms 
from  which  depended  a  silken  tassel.  "This  is  the  month 
of  the  flower,  Miss,  and  you  ought  to  have  it  for  your  beautiful 
hair." 

"  How  much  do  you  ask  for  it?  "  she  said. 

"  Only  ten  sen"  he  replied.  :?  When  you  wear  this  ume, 
nobody  can  tell  but  what  it  is  real.  I  believe  if  you  were 
to  put  it  in  the  ground,  after  you  have  finished  with  it,  this 
spray  would  grow." 

The  girl  bought  the  pin,  then  the  dealer  turned  to  Sallie 
and  remarked,  — 

"  I  have  decorations  for  the  hair,  especially  made  for  foreign 
ladies." 

He  arose,  offered  Mrs,  Jewett  a  seat,  and  on  her  declining 
his  attention,  said, — 

"I  have  an  assortment  of  nice  kushi  for  the  hair,"  pointing 
to  some  semi-circular  articles  on  his  stall.  "  My  combs  are 
made  of  the  best  Tsuge  (box- wood).  The  teeth  will  not 
break  out  like  those  of  foreign  ones." 

They  left  him  shouting  to  the  passers  by:  "Oh,  these  are 
the  beautiful  artificial  flowers!  They  are  the  best  in  Tokio." 

After  a  brisk  walk  they  arrived  near  the  temple,  and  enter- 
ing a  tea-house  proceeded  to  a  private  room  and  ordered 
refreshments. 

Upon  the  wall  was  an  oil  painting,  quite  an  unusual  decora- 
tion in  such  a  place.  It  was  intended  to  represent  a  group  of 
Japanese  ladies  and  children,  but  the  costumes  and  figures 


30  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

were  not  quite  correct.     When  the  landlady  entered,  the  Pro- 
fessor inquired  where  she  had  obtained  the  picture. 

"Ah!"  she  said,  "that  is  a  very  valuable  thing.  A 
foreign  gentleman  once  came  out  here  to  stay.  His  remit- 
tances did  not  arrive  in  time,  so  he  gave  me  that  picture  in 
1  ;cu  of  a  month's  rent." 

"What  does  it  mean?"  asked  Oto.      "Our  countrywomen 
never  dressed  in  that  fashion." 

"Certainly  not,"  was  the  smiling  response.       r  Those  are, 
honorable  foreign   ladies  going  to  a  matsuri  (festival)." 

"  It  is  signed  Emile  Bayard,  and  was  painted  by  quite  a 
celebrated  French  artist,"  said  the  Professor.  "I  wonder 
where  he  got  his  models?" 

"I  should  think  out  of  his  own  head,"  said  Fitz.  "No  one 
ever  saw  Japanese  children  rigged  up  in  that  style." 

They  entered  the  grounds  of  the  temple  of  Temmangu 
and  passing  the  outer  gate,  saw  a  pond  around  which  were 
many  wistaria  trees,  trained  upon  trellises  and  covered  with 
straw  to  protect  the  young  branches. 

After  walking  over  a  bridge  they  came  to  a  gate  that  faced 
the  temple. 

In  the  garden,  before  the  main  edifice,  stood  a  beautiful 
tree  which  was  one  mass  of  red  and  white  blossoms. 

:r  That,"  said  Oto,  "was  grown  from  a  seed  of  the  celebrated 
Flying  Plum-tree." 

"Flying?"  queried  Johnnie.     "Surely  you  must  be  joking." 

"Oh,  no!"  gravely  replied  the  young  doctor.  "There 
have  been  several  books  written  about  the  tree.  Sugawara-no- 
Michizane,  who  is  worshipped  in  this  temple  under  the  title  of 
Tern-man  Dai-ji-zai  Ten-jin,  was  one  of  our  national  heroes." 

"Did  he  kill  himself?"  inquired  Fitz. 

"No,"  laughingly  answered  Oto.     "He  was  a  great  scholar 


32  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

and  is  worshipped  by  persons  who  wish  to  write  a  beautiful 
hand.  For  some  reason  or  other  he  was  banished  to  the  island 
of  Kiushiu.  One  day,  in  spring,  he  was  lamenting  that  he 
would  never  again  see  the  blossoms  of  a  lovely  ume  tree  that 
grew  near  his  residence  in  Kioto.  While  he  was  sighing,  a 
plum  pit  struck  his  cheek  and  dropped  at  his  feet." 

"  Pooh,"  said  Fitz.  "  Some  boy  must  have  shot  it  through 
a  bean-blower." 

"  I  wish  you  would  not  pull  the  roof  off  our  beautiful 
legend  in  that  way,"  merrily  retorted  Oto.  "Our  people  be- 
lieve that  the  plum  seed  flew  from  Kioto  to  Kiushiu.  Yonder 
tree  sprang  from  a  pit  of  the  original  tobi-ume  planted  by 
Michizane." 

"How  interesting!"  exclaimed  Sallie.  "So  that  white 
marble  elephant,  over  there,  is  one  of  the  old  gods?" 

"No,"  replied  their  friend,  "it  is  intended  to  represent  the 
cow  on  which  Michizane  used  to  ride  when  he  was  in  exile." 

"  I  wonder  he  did  not  prefer  a  horse,"  said  Fitz.  "Japan- 
ese cows  were  of  a  queer  shape  in  his  time." 

After  inspecting  the  sacred  animal,  they  visited  a  well,  cov- 
ered with  a  stone-tortoise,  the  name  of  which,  kame,  gives  the 
title  to  the  palace,  Kamedo. 

:t  We  can  go  from  these  grounds  into  the  Ume  yashiki? 
said  Oto.  "It  is  about  four  cho  (streets)  from  here.  I  suppose 
we  can  walk  that  distance." 

"Why  is  the  place  called  Ga-rio-bai  (crouching-dragon 
plum  trees)  ?"  inquired  the  Professor. 

"  Because  the  trunks  creep  along  the  ground,"  said  Oto. 
"There  are  over  five  hundred  trees  in  the  garden." 

In  a  few  moments  they  arrived  at  an  enclosed  place  which 
was  perfectly  white  with  the  beautiful  blossoms,  and  was 
studied  with  upright  slabs  of  stone,  inscribed  with  poems  in 
praise  of  the  flowers. 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  33 

"Oh!  oh!"  exclaimed  the  Jewetts  in  chorus;  "this  is  a 
sight  worth  seeing." 

The  yashiki  was  filled  with  well-dressed  people,  who 
evidently  enjoyed  the  scene,  and  chatted  with  each  other  like 
happy  children. 

All  of  the  trees  were  very  old,  and  their  gnarled  stems 
were  supported  on  short  bamboo  stakes,  to  prevent  the  flowers 
from  coming  in  contact  with  the  earth. 

"Why  are  those  papers  tied  to  the  branches?"  asked 
Sallie. 

"Those  are  poems,"  said  Oto.  "When  my  countrymen 
feel  very  much  delighted  with  anything,  they  write  a  verse  and 
attach  it  to  the  object  of  their  admiration." 

"Do  you  ever  fasten  them  to  your  young  ladies?"  asked 
Fitz. 

"Oh,  no! "  said  Oto.     "We  only  affix  them  to  trees." 

"  It  is  not  solely  a  Japanese  idea,"  remarked  the  Professor. 
"  Shakespeare  mentions  such  a  custom  in  ?As  you  like  it.'  We 
Americans  are  too  prosaic  to  do  such  things." 

"Yes,  sir,"  said  Fitz.  "The  only  inscriptions  we  put  upon 
our  trees  are  'Keep  off  the  grass.'  : 

When  the  party  had  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  glorious  sight 
they  made  their  exit  through  the  main  gate,  where  one  of  the 
attendants  was  peddling  boxes  of  the  dried  plums  called  ume- 
boshi. 

Upon  quitting  the  place  Fitz  began  to  partake  of  his  pur- 
chase, when  he  made  a  very  wry  face,  and,  turning  to  his  sister, 
said: 

"  Do  not  eat  any  of  these,  Sallie,  they  are  salted." 

"Yes,"  observed  Oto,  "that  is  done  to  preserve  them.  The 
fruit  is  really  very  good  and  is  considered  excellent  for  sick 
people." 


34 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


Fitz  gave  his  box  to  a  beggar,  and,  nodding  at  his  friend, 
said,  in  a  grumbling  tone: 

"  I  think  I  should  be  sick  if  I  ate  many  of  them.  I  like 
my  plums  sugar-cured." 

Near  the  gateway  was  a  bronze  statue  of  a  priest,  carrying 

in   one  hand  a  bamboo  staff,  and  in 
the  other  a  pilgrim's  hammer. 

"  Why  has  that  figure  a  branch  in 
its  mouth  ?  "  asked  Fitz. 

"Oh,  don't  you  know?"  quickly 
replied  his  sister.  "Old  Deacon 
Brown  always  chews  a  straw  when 
he  is  thinking  what  he  will  say  at 
the  next  prayer-meeting.  It  assists 
his  mental  digestion.  I  believe  the 
good  bozu  carried  a  branch  of  bam- 
boo for  the  same  reason." 

Oto's  eyes  twinkled,  and  he  re- 
marked : 

"You  are  right,  Sallie.  The 
statue  represents  one  of  our  famous 
priests  named  Kuya-shonin.  When  he  made  his  pilgrim- 
ages, he  affixed  a  metal  bell  to  his  girdle,  and,  after  he  had 
repeated  a  certain  number  of  prayers,  he  struck  the  kane  with 
his  hammer.  He  travelled  all  over  the  country,  and  made 
many  converts." 

:t  Yes,  but  why  does  he  hold  that  twig  in  his  mouth  ?  "  per- 
sisted Fitz. 

"  Oto  has  told  you  that  Sallie  guessed  the  reason,"  said 
Johnnie. 

"I  wish  they  would  put  the  particulars  on  the  pedestals," 
grumbled  Fitz.  ?  These  sort  of  things  worry  a  poor  little  fel- 
low, who  wants  to  know  as  badly  as  I  do." 


KUYA-SHONIN,   A   FAMOUS 
PRIEST. 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  35 

They  walked  leisurely  homeward,  and  passed  through  a 
very  busy  quarter  occupied  by  artisans,  who  worked  in  the 
front  rooms  of  their  dwellings. 

:r  Wait  a  moment,"  said  Johnnie,  stopping  before  the  store 
of  a  tatami-ya  (floor-mat  maker).  :?  Why  do  they  keep  that 
rooster  in  a  cage  ?  " 

The  artisan  turned,  and,  smilingly  regarding  the  speaker, 
said: 

"The  bird  is  a  very  great  pet.  It  has  a  most  beautiful 
song." 

"Song?"  interposed  Fitz.     "Does  it  sing?" 

"Oh,  yes,"  said  the  man.  :tYou  know  the  rooster  is  a 
favorite  bird  of  the  gods.  When  Amaterasu  came  out  of  the 
cave,  the  ondori  sang  a  song  of  welcome,  so  we  esteem  the 
amiable  bird." 

:f  Yes,"  said  his  mother,  an  aged  dame,  who  wore  a  towel 
about  her  head,  and,  like  the  man,  had  a  pad  fixed  to  her  right 
elbow,  "we  pay  great  respect  to  that  bird.  Would  you  like  to 
buy  some  nice  mats  for  your  house?" 

"Let  us  go  inside,"  said  the  Professor.  "I  want  to  see  how 
the  tatami  are  made." 

The  man  and  woman  bowed  as  the  visitors  entered,  and  the 
dame,  who  was  very  smart,  explained  the  process,  then  said: 

"We  make  our  mats  of  the  very  best  rice  straw;  they  are 
six  feet  long,  three  feet  wide  and  two  inches  thick,  and  the 
edges  are  bound  with  strong  blue  cotton  cloth." 

"Why  do  you  wear  those  pads  on  your  elbows?"  asked 
Johnnie. 

"  We  have  to  beat  the  mats  smooth  as  we  work  it,"  she  re- 
plied, "and,  if  we  did  not  protect  our  elbows,  we  should  soon 
wear  them  out." 

"Then,  why  not  buy  a  mallet?"  suggested  Sallie. 


36  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  woman  took  a  piece  of  paper  string  from  a  holder  ly- 
ing upon  her  left,  placed  it  upon  her  tongue,  dexterously 
threaded  a  packing-needle,  and  complacently  replied: 

"Buy  a  mallet,  honorable  young  lady?  Why  should  we 
-waste  our  money  on  such  luxuries,  when  we  can  use  our 
elbows?  Besides  these  shields  prevent  the  sharp  pieces  of 
'the  straw  from  running  into  our  flesh." 

She  then  thrust  the  needle  into  the  mat,  and  began  to  stitch 
with  great  rapidity,  while  her  son  fetched  the  visitors  some  tea 
.and  brought  Oto  a  light  for  his  pipe. 

An  old  lady  was  in  the  back  room,  enjoying  the  luxury  of 
'being  shampooed  by  a  blind  boy,  who  knelt  behind  her  and 
.alternately  thumped  and  kneaded  her  back. 

"That  is  honorable  grandmother,"  said  the  mat-maker. 
"She  is  over  ninety  years  old,  and  is  a  most  pious  person.  She 
counts  her  beads  all  day  long,  and  has  attained  a  perfect  com- 
posure of  mind." 

The  aged  woman  chuckled  at  this  remark,  and  said  to  the 
shampooer: 

"Don't  hit  me  too  hard,  my  bones  are  not  as  strong  as  they 
used  to  be;"  adding,  in  an  undertone:  "I  think  those  honor- 
able foreigners  ought  to  make  me  a  present.  They  do  not 
-often  have  the  happiness  of  seeing  any  one  as  old  as  I  am." 

The  Professor  gave  the  dame's  grandson  ten  sen  for  her, 
whereupon  she  chuckled  like  an  overjoyed  child,  and,  bowing, 
:said : 

"7r0,  iro,  arigato!  (thanks,  many  thanks).  Now  I  will 
buy  myself  some  very  good  tobacco." 

Soon  after  they  had  left  the  mat-maker's,  they  heard  a  toot- 
ing noise,  and  presently  beheld  a  man  standing  by  a  portable 
stall  on  which  were  arranged  an  assortment  of  flutes  and 
whistles. 


ONE  OF  THE  GLORIES  OF  TOKIO.  37 

T  That  is  a  yoko-buye  uri  (flute  seller)  "  said  Oto. 
"Jemmy!  "  cried  Fitz.     "Just  look  at  him;  why  he  is  play- 
ing a  flute  with  his  nose." 


BLIND    SHAMPOOER    AT   WORK. 


The  party  halted  and  watched  the  performance,  which  was 
truly  a  comical  one;  the  man  being  employed  as  Fitz  had  said.. 


3  8  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

He  was  a  shrewd-looking  old  fellow  and  the  way  he  quavered 
.and  shook  out  his  notes  was  most  astonishing. 

On  noticing  the  foreigners  he  indulged  in  some  very  gro- 


FLUTE-SELLER. 


tesque  gestures,  and,  while  continuing  to  produce  a  tune  from 
the  instrument,  put  out  his  tongue  derisively,  pursed  up  his 
mouth,  and  made  such  extraordinary  grimaces  that  a  small 
boy,  who  was  watching  him,  doubled  up  with  laughter. 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO. 


39 


Fitz  bought  one  of  the  flutes,  and,  in  spite  of  Sallie's 
earnest  protest,  endeavored  to  perform  on  it;  however,  he 
soon  discovered  that  he  did  not  possess  the  ability  of  the  yoko- 
buye  and  gave  up  the  attempt. 

As  they  neared  home  they  saw  a  na-oshi  (pipe  mender) 
engaged  in  the  occupation  of  straightening  bamboo  sticks  for 
pipe-stems. 


PIPE-MENDER. 


"He  carries  his  shop  with  him,  does  he  not? "  remarked 
Johnnie.  "  He  must  mend  a  great  many  pipes  before  he  can 
earn  a  day's  rice." 

The  man  glanced  up,  regarded  them  sourly,  and  said  in  a 
low  tone,  to  a  friend  that  stood  near  him: 

"Foreigners!  —  I  never  take  any  notice  of  them  —  they 
have  no  pipes  to  be  mended.  It  makes  me  sad  to  see  people 
smoking  rolled  up  tobcaco  leaves  as  they  do.  It  is  an  exceed- 
ingly barbarous  and  wasteful  habit.  I  suppose  they  have  not 
any  pipes  in  their  benighted  country." 


40  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  boys  laughed  at  his  insinuation,  then  walking  quickly, 
soon  rejoined  the  Professor  and  his  wife. 

When  they  reached  home  they  found  that  the  steward, 
cook,  and  several  of  the  servants  had  gone  to  a  wedding. 

"  I  am  so  sorry,"  said  Mrs.  Jewett.  t?  What  shall  we  do 
for  supper?  Sallie  and  I  can  manage  to  find  something  to  eat, 
but  I  am  at  a  loss  what  to  give  you." 

"We  will  go  to  a  Japanese  restaurant,"  said  her  husband. 
"Oto,  do  you  know  of  a  good  one  hereabouts?" 

"  Yes,  sir,  there  is  a  famous  rio-ria  in  Uyeno." 

The}7  walked  through  the  grounds,  and,  in  a  few  moments, 
were  seated  on  the  floor  of  a  restaurant,  called  the  "  Golden 
cherry  blossom." 

Around  them  were  groups  of  Japanese,  singing,  joking  and 
eating,  the  combined  noises  being  almost  deafening. 

After  ordering  their  supper  they  watched  the  other  guests, 
and  Fitz  said: 

'r  Why  does  not  each  party  have  a  private  room  ?  One 
gets  bewildered  listening  to  half  a  dozen  songs  at  the  same 
time.  How  rank  the  candles  smell.  You  have  gas  in  the 
streets,  so  why  do  you  not  introduce  it  in  your  restaurants?" 

"Because  our  people  dislike  the  odor,"  quietly  answered 
Oto.  T  You  enjoy  the  smell  of  gas;  we  prefer  that  of  our  ro- 


"  Hullo!  there  is  a  picture  of  our  long-headed  friend,"  said 
Fitz,  nodding  towards  a  kakemono  (hanging  picture)  on  the 
wall. 

'  That  is  a  good  name  for  the  god  of  longevity,"  said  Oto. 
ff  Look  at  the  dwarf  plum  tree  in  front  of  him.  It  bears  alter- 
nate bunches  of  red  and  white  blossoms.  Is  it  not  wonderful  ?  " 

Fitz  regarded  it  with  a  critical  air  and  quietly  answered: 

"  I  don't  think  much  of  it.       In  the  States  we  have  rose 


ONE    OF   THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  4! 

trees  that  bear  eighteen  varieties  of  flowers  on  one  stem.  You 
cannot  teach  us  anything  in  horticulture." 

As  he  spoke  some  geisha  (singing  girls)  began  to  play  and 
sing,  two  of  them  keeping  time  by  knocking  wooden  blocks 
together. 

"Do  you  call  that  noise  music?"  said  Johnnie,  who  was 
very  hungry  and  somewhat  cross.  "  I  think  it  is  a  dreadful 
racket." 

:f  When  I  was  in  America,"  quietly  remarked  Oto,  "I  went 
with  you  to  a  minstrel  show.  One  of  the  performers  played 
upon  the  bones  and  gave  me  a  very  bad  headache,  but  I  did 
not  make  unkind  remarks  about  him." 

"Well  said,  Oto!"  cried  the  Professor.  "My  boys  forget 
that  you  have  a  right  to  prefer  your  own  music." 

"  Here  comes  the  waitress,"  said  the  young  Japanese. 
"Johnnie  will  not  notice  the  din  of  the  hio-shigi  (clappers) 
when  he  begins  to  use  his  teeth  upon  these  delicious  broiled 
unagi  (eels)." 

"  I  did  not  mean  to  offend  you,  Oto,"  returned  the  lad,  tak- 
ing up  his  chopsticks.  "  My  father  is  quite  right." 

"  He  always  is,"  said  the  young  doctor,  following  his 
friend's  example.  r?Your  father  is  a  man  of  a  hundred 
thousand." 

They  heartily  enjoyed  the  meal,  and  at  its  conclusion  the 
Professor  said: 

"We  have  still  an  evening  before  us;  what  shall  we  do, 
Oto?" 

"  There  is  a  very  good  kosha-ku-shi  (public  story-teller) 
not  far  from  here.  Would  you  like  to  pay  him  a  visit?" 

They  all  agreed,  and,  quitting  the  restaurant,  pro- 
ceeded to  a  house  near  by,  and  entering,  found  the  man 
waiting  for  an  audience.  He  was  seated  on  a  platform,  behind 


42 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


a  low  table  upon  which  rested  a  manuscript  book  and  a  piece 
of  wood,  used  by  him  to  emphasize  certain  portions  of  his 
narrative.  He  was  dressed  in  a  cotton  kimono  (long  coat) 
covered  with  a  fine  geometrical  pattern,  and  he  held  a  fan  in 
his  right  hand. 

Upon  seeing  the  visitors  he  bowed  profoundly,  and,  when 


PUBLIC   STORY-TELLER. 


they  were  seated  upon  the  matted  floor,  he  poured  out  a  cup  of 
tea  from  a  pot  resting  on  a  little  hibachi  (portable  furnace). 
After  drinking,  to  clear  his  voice,  he  rapped  on  the  table,  in 
order  to  command  silence,  and  said: 

"  The  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun  has  produced  a  hundred 
thousand  heroes  who  have  left  behind  them  a  cloud  of  fragrant 
memories.  Of  all  these,  none  was  greater  than  Kusunoke 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  43 

Mashashige,  that  brilliant  example  of  unselfish  devotion  to 
duty,  calm  courage  and  pure  patriotism,  whose  loyalty  was  as 
stainless  as  the  sacred  mirror  of  Ise'. 

TThe  gods  presided  over  his  birth,  he  received  his  educa- 
tion in  the  Chinese  classics  from  a  venerable  priest,  and  he 
devoted  all  his  spare  time  to  the  art  of  war. 

"At  the  age  of  twelve  years  he  had  exhibited  his  valor  in 
battle,  and  at  fifteen  he  went  to  the  temple  and  solemnly 
vowed  to  overthrow  the  Kamakoura  usurper.  All  men  of  any 
intelligence  know  the  history  of  this  noble  patriot,  and  every- 
body is  delighted  to  hear  the  story  repeated.  (Assuming  a 
•very  solemn  manner?)  When  Mashashige  marched  for  Ka- 
wachi,  his  son  Masatsura,  aged  eleven,  followed  him  in  order 
to  die  with  his  parent.  Upon  arriving  at  the  town  of  Sakurai, 
Mashashige  called  the  boy  to  him  and  said: 

"  My  son,  listen  to  the  last  instructions  of  your  father.  A 
few  days  ago  the  Mikado  assembled  his  generals  in  council. 
Every  one  was  satisfied  with  the  victory  in  Kioto,  I  alone 
urging  that  the  rebels  should  be  followed  and  wiped  out  of  ex- 
istence. My  advice  was  rejected  and  when  I  returned  to  my 
tent,  I  exclaimed,  ?I  am  doomed!'  but  I  felt  happy  in  the 
prospect  of  dying  for  the  Mikado. 

"  Our  enemies  are  ten  times  as  strong  as  ourselves,  still  I 
am  not  afraid  to  meet  them,  for  that  is  my  duty.  My  son,  you 
are  too  young  to  die  yet,  so  I  command  you  to  return  home 
and  wait  until  you  are  old  enough,  when  you  will  be  able  to 
help  the  Mikado.  (Rapping-  on  the  table.} 

"Then  the  great  hero  took  a  short  sword  that  had  been  pre- 
sented to  him  by  the  emperor,  and,  handing  it  to  his  child, 
said: 

"  Masatsura,  keep  this  for  my  sake,  and  promise  me  that 
you  will  never  use  it  except  in  the  service  of  the  Mikado.' 


44  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  'Let  me  die  with  you!'  pleaded  the  boy.  f  How  can  I 
live  when  you  no  longer  exist? ' 

"Mashashige  tenderly  regarded  him,  then  said: 

"  My  dear  son,  your  duty  is  to  obey  me.  Mine,  to  obey 
my  lord! 

"The  boy,  whose  heart  was  torn  with  conflicting  emotions, 
bowed  respectfully  to  his  parent,  and,  bidding  him  a  sad  fare- 
well, returned  home. 

"  Mashashige,  at  the  head  of  seven  hundred  devoted  clans- 
men, marched  to  Mi-nato-gawa,  where  he  pitched  his  tents 
and  awaited  the  enemy.  The  end  soon  came. 

"  Surrounded  by  an  overwhelming  force,  he  fought  until  he 
only  had  seventy-two  followers  alive,  when  he  ordered  them 
to  retire  to  a  neighboring  farm-house  where  they  could  calmly 
and  honorably  end  their  existence. 

r  Taking  off  his  armor  he  discovered  that  he  had  eleven 
wounds.  These  he  regarded  proudly,  and  exhibited  to  his 
brother,  to  whom  he  said: 

*  What  more  do  you  wish?' 

"The  other  replied: 

r  I  would  desire  to  live  seven  lives,  that  I  might  have  sev- 
en opportunities  like  this,  of  doing  my  duty  to  the  Mikado.' 

'Good! '  cried  Mashashige,  turning  to  his  wounded  clans- 
men. r  Since  we  are  defeated,  let  us  show  our  enemies  that 
we  prefer  an  honorable  death  to  dishonorable  flight.' 

(In  a  solemn  tone.}  "  Then  all  the  heroes  committed  hara- 
kiri!" 

The  story-teller  rapped  his  hiyoshi-gi  upon  the  table,  and 
bowing  low,  remarked  in  a  pleasant  voice: 

"  Now  is  the  time  for  your  liberal  appreciation." 

rr  I  suppose  he  means  that  he  is  going  to  take  up  a  collec- 
tion for  the  poor  heathen,"  whispered  Fitz  to  his  father. 


KUSUNOKE    MASHASHIGE. 


46  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  Professor  smiled  and  rewarded  the  man,  who,  once 
more  rapping  the  table,  bowed  repeatedly,  and  said: 

"Honorable  sirs,  perhaps  you  would  like  to  hear  a  story  of 
the  god-fox?" 

"  We  would,"  frankly  answered  Fitz,  speaking  for  the 
party.  !t  Tell  us  something  funny.  We  don't  particularly  ad- 
mire tales  of  hara-kiri" 

The  koshaku-shi  assumed  a  comical  air,  rapped  on  the 
table,  and  said: 

"  In  the  little  village  of  Oji,  lived  -a  man  who  did  not  be- 
lieve in  the  benevolent  Inari  (the  god  of  rice)  and  went  about 
ridiculing  him  to  his  neighbors,  saying: 

c  The  worship  of  such  a  god  is  foolishness,  and  as  to  his 
attendants,  the  foxes,  you  are  not  going  to  make  me  believe 
they  can  assume  human  shapes,  it  is  all  nonsense.  Such 
stories  may  serve  to  scare  old  women,  but  they  do  not  frighten 
me.' 

"  One  day,  when  he  was  working  at  his  trade  of  making 
gold  ornaments  for  the  hilts  of  swords,  a  beautiful  lady  came 
to  his  shop  and  said: 

'My  husband  desires  to  see  some  of  your  exquisite  me- 
nuki? 

"The  man,  flattered  by  her  words,  packed  his  treasures  in 
a  box  and  followed  his  visitor  to  a  little   hill  near  the  Oto- 
nashi-gawa,  where  he  saw  a  magnificent  palace  surrounded  by 
rice  fields.     The  lady  took  the  package  from  him  and  said: 
rWait  till  T  go  indoors  and  show  these  to  my  husband." 

"  She  then  threw  the  box  into  the  building,  when,  behold, 
in  an  instant,  the  mansion  tumbled  to  pieces  and  resolved  itself 
into  a  ruined  well. 

>rThe  man  gazed  about  him  in  a  bewildered  manner,  and, 
falling  upon  his  knees,  cried: 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO. 


47 


f  Give  me  back  my  gold  ornaments! ' 
"Upon  glancing  up  again,  he  found  that   his  visitor   had 


BEWITCHED    BY   FOXES. 


changed  into  a  fox,  which  laughed  derisively  at  him  and  said : 

?  Yeh,  you  ignorant  fellow!    Another  time  you  will  know 
better  than  to  scoff  at  Inari.' 


48  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Oh,  my  gold  ornaments!'  he  howled.  'What  have  you 
done  with  my  gold  ornaments?' 

"The  god-fox  mocked  at  his  terror,  and  echoed: 

"Gold  ornaments!  Gold  ornaments!'  You  are  the  fellow 
who  did  not  believe  in  Inari.  He  has  deprived  you  of  your 
treasures." 

The  koshaku-shi  then  bowed,  smiled,  and  said  to  his  lis- 
teners: 

"Is  that  not  a  funny  story?" 

"Oto,"  whispered  Fitz,  "please  laugh,  for  I  cannot. 
Where  does  the  joke  come  in?" 

"Don't  you  see?"  returned  Oto.  "The  god-fox  avenged 
the  insult  cast  upon  Inari,  whose  servant  he  was.  I  think  the 
story  is  very  quaint." 

They  gave  the  man  some  more  money,  and  quitting  the 
place,  emerged  upon  the  street. 

"Did  that  story  really  amuse  you,  Oto?"  inquired  Johnnie. 

"Yes,"  was  the  response.  "I  think  it  was  more  ridiculous 
than  anything  I  have  read  in  your  comic  papers." 

Fitz  nudged  his  brother  and  said,  in  a  low  tone : 

"Johnnie,  I  am  afraid  we  are  not  educated  up  to  Japanese 
wit.  Perhaps,  if  we  think  over  it  for  a  week  or  so,  we  may 
see  where  the  laugh  comes  in." 

As  they  were  chatting,  two  ragged  outcasts  approached 
arid  began  to  turn  over  the  rubbish  in  the  road,  for  scraps  of 
waste  paper.  They  wore  dilapidated,  conical  hats,  the  lower 
parts  of  their  faces  were  concealed  by  blue  towels,  and  they 
moved  warily,  like  rats. 

''Those  are  kami-kudsu-hiroi?  whispered  Oto.  "They 
are  not  very  particular  how  they  fill  their  baskets.  Have  you 
any  persons  like  them  in  the  States?" 

"Lots,"  said   Johnnie.    "We   call   them   rag-pickers.    The 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO. 


49 


way  one  of  our  fellows  will  investigate  the  contents  of  an  ash- 
barrel,  would  astonish  your  kami-kudsu-kiroi" 
"Are  they  honest?  "  inquired  the  young  doctor. 


COLLECTOR   OF   WASTE   PAPER. 


"Well,  they  seldom  attempt  to  handle  anything  they  can- 
not carry,"  replied  Fitz. 

At  that  moment  he  felt  a  tug  at  his  coat  pocket,  and  on  ex- 
amining it  found  that  his  handkerchief  had  been  stolen. 

One  of  the  kami-kudsu-hiroi,  who  carried  a  pair  of  long 
sticks  which  he  used  like  tongs,  had  dexterously  twisted  them 
round  the  handkerchief  and  conveyed  it  into  his  basket.  Before 


50  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY   OF    TOKIO. 

• 

a  policeman  could  be  found,  the  rascals  had  vanished,  so  Fitz 
gave  up  all  hopes  of  recovering  his  property. 

They  entered  the  yashiki  by  a  side  gate  which  was  kept  in 
the  same  manner  as  it  had  been  when  the  place  was  owned  by 
the  Lord  of  Kaga.  On  the  right  of  the  mom-ban's  quarters 
was  an  upright  frame  containing  three  extraordinary-looking 
instruments  that  stood  out  black  against  the  moonlit  sky. 

The  porch  of  the  building  was  shaded  by  a  curtain  hung 
from  a  pole,  and  inside  the  door  lounged  three  men,  who  were 
watching  the  approach  of  a  tall  Japanese. 

"That  is  a  Satsuma  man,"  whispered  Oto.  "Look  at  the 
crest  on  his  haori  (short  jacket).  I  wonder  what  he  is  doing 
in  the  Kaga-yashiki?  " 

"  I  suppose  he  is  on  a  visit  to  the  mom-ban"  said  the  Pro- 
fessor. 

"No,  he  must  be  stirring  up  mischief,"  cautiously  replied 
Oto.  "  No  doubt  he  is  a  spy  sent  to  ascertain  how  the  people 
like  the  new  order  of  things." 

"For  what  did  they  use  those  pitchforks?"  demanded  Fitz, 
pointing  to  the  weapons. 

"  For  this,"  said  Oto.  "  In  the  old  time,  if  a  stranger  en- 
deavored to  pass  the  guard-house  without  giving  his  name  and 
stating  his  business,  the  soldiers  would  seize  those  mitsu-dogu 
and  either  entangle  them  in  his  clothes  or  trip  him  up  with 
them.  You  will  observe  that  the  prongs  are  covered  with  lit- 
tle hooks." 

"  I  wonder  the  mom-ban  did  not  keep  them  inside  the 
house,"  remarked  Johnnie. 

'The  mitsu-dogu  were  put  there  more  to  scare  people 
than  anything  else,"  said  Oto.  "Indeed,  for  some  years,  they 
have  only  been  retained  as  ornaments." 

"What  is  that  hour-glass  shaped  structure  on  the  left?  "in- 
quired the  Professor. 


5  2  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"That,  sir,  was  the  guard-house  toro  (lantern),"  replied 
Oto.  "  In  former  times  a  lamp  was  kept  burning  in  it  all 
night.  Now  it  is  used  as  a  rabbit-hutch  by  the  mom-ban" 

"  Here  we  are  at  home,"  cried  Fitz.  "  Mother  and  Sallie 
have  gone  to  bed.  Will  you  come  in,  Oto?" 

"Yes,  for  a  few  moments,"  answered  their  friend.  "  I  for- 
got to  tell  you  that  I  had  brought  you  a  curiosity,  —  a 
daguerreotype  of  my  family,  taken  when  I  was  quite  a  boy." 

They  entered  the  house  and  proceeded  to  the  library,  when 
Oto,  producing  a  small  morocco  case  from  his  pocket,  exhib- 
ited a  picture  of  four  persons,  remarking: 

"This  was  made  in  1871  — just  before  we  gave  up  wearing 
our  swords.  In  those  days  my  father  carried  two  in  his  obi 
(girdle)  and  I  wore  one.  My  mother  is  standing  behind  him 
and  my  eldest  sister  is  on  my  right." 

"Where  is  she  now?"  asked  Johnnie. 

"Alas!  she  is  no  more,"  returned  the  young  Japanese. 
"  She  died  when  I  was  staying  with  you  in  America." 

"What  a  queer-looking  little  fellow  you  were,  Oto!"  said 
Fitz.  "You  did  not  think  much  of  foreigners  then,  did  you?" 

"  I  did  not  know  you  as  well  as  I  do  now,"  was  the  gentle 
reply.  "Still  I  never  disliked  you,  my  father  having  from  the 
first  taught  me  to  respect  all  nations.  I  have  brought  this  for 
your  mother.  I  once  heard  her  say  she  would  like  to  have 
seen  me  in  the  olden  times." 

"I  thank  you,  for  my  wife,"  said  the  Professor,  taking  the 
case;  "she  will  value  your  gift  very  highly." 

"  Boys,"  said  Oto,  as  he  quitted  the  house,  "  I  cannot  be 
away  from  the  hospital  more  than  one  day  in  each  month. 
What  shall  we  do  the  next  time  I  visit  you?" 

"We  will  take  a  stroll  about  the  city  and  see  the  sights," 
said  Johnnie.  "We  want  to  go  to  the  places  where  they  man- 


ONE    OF    THE    GLORIES    OF    TOKIO.  53 

ufacture  lacquer-ware  and  silk  goods,  and  to  witness  the  process 
of  making  Indian  ink." 


OTO   NAMBO    WHEN    A    BOY   (1871). 

"All  right,  I  know  where  to  take  you,"  said  Oto.  "I  must 
be  off.  My  mother  will  not  go  to  sleep  until  she  knows  I  am 
safe  in  bed.  Saionara" 

In  another  moment  he  was  out  of  sight. 


54  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


CHAPTER   III. 

A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER. 

"  When  the  blustering  March  wind  scatters  the  fully  opened  blossoms  of  the  plum, 
The  man  laughs  who  has  not  pawned  his  shi-taki  (cold  weather  under-coat.)" 

"T)HEW!"  cried  Fitz,  as  he  entered  the  breakfast-room. 
1  "  Is  it  not  blowing  this  morning?" 

"  This  is  Futerfs  (the  wind  god's)  month,"  said  Sallie.  "  It 
is  good  weather  for  children.  See,  the  mom-ban's  boy  is  out 
in  the  yashiki  flying  his  tako  (kite). 

"  I  wonder  why  they  always  make  those  things  square," 
remarked  Johnnie. 

:r  You  do  not  use  your  eyesight,"  said  Fitz.  "  Some  of  the 
toys  are  like  birds,  and  others  resemble  fishes.  I  think  Japanese 
kites  are  a  good  deal  better  than  ours;  you  can  put  hummers 
on  them  and  make  them  buzz  like  bees.  Look  at  O  Kame, 
the  boy's  sister,  she  is  telling  him  to  pay  out  more  string." 
While  they  were  watching  the  lad,  some  one  in  a  closed  jin- 
riki-sha  entered  the  compound.  As  the  vehicle  stopped 
before  the  door  of  the  house,  the  curtains  were  removed  and 
the  Jewetts  saw  Oto,  who  was  muffled  up  in  a  comical  fashion. 

"Hullo!"  cried  Johnnie,  going  into  the  veranda  to  meet 
him.  "We  did  not  expect  you  to-day." 

Oto  shook  his  friend's  hand;  then,  as  he  accompanied  him 
indoors,  said: 

"My  ward  is  almost  free  of  patients,  and  I  shall  not  be 
wanted  at  the  hospital  until  to-morrow  morning,  so  I  thought 
I  would  come  over  and  have  a  good  time  with  you.  Is  it  too 
cold  for  Sallie  to  go  out  with  us?" 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER. 


55 


"No,  indeed,"  answered  the  young  lady,  "I  want  to  see 
the  lacquer-workers  before  the  weather  becomes  warm." 

"  I  know  a  very  nice  man  who  lives  in  the  Asakusa  quar- 


BOV   FLYIXG   HIS    KITE. 


ter,"  said  Oto.  "  He  has  been  one  of  my  patients,  and  will, 
I  am  sure,  show  us  the  various  processes  of  applying  the 
lacquer." 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


•  After  obtaining  their  parents'  permission,  the  young  folks 
wrapped  themselves  up  and  set  out  with  Oto. 


CARPENTERS   AT   WORK. 


As  they  passed  through  the  grounds,  they  halted  to  see 
some  dai-ku  (carpenters)  at  work  upon  a  new  fence.  One  of 
the  men  was  trimming  a  post  with  a  primitive-looking  adze, 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER.  57 

and  the  other  was  planing  a  board,  placed  upon  a  sloping  log, 
the  lower  end  of  which  he  steadied  with  his  right  foot. 

rf  Why  do  you  draw  your  plane  towards  you?"  demanded 
Johnnie.  "  Our  carpenters  always  push  theirs  from  them." 

The  workman  picked  up  some  shavings,  cast  them  on  a 
pile  of  rubbish  burning  near  by,  and  replied: 

"  Ours  is  the  correct  way.  Your  carpenters  cannot  teach 
us  anything." 

:?We  can  put  a  plank,  like  that,  in  a  machine,  and  plane  it 
in  an  instant,"  said  the  boy,  who  was  desirous  of  astonishing 
the  man. 

"Oh!  yes,  certainly,"  sarcastically  returned  the  carpenter. 
"  You  Chinese  can  do  wonderful  things.  I  suppose  you  can 
grow  a  tree,  saw  it  into  boards  and  build  a  house  with  it  while 
one  is  winking." 

f'  Not  quite,"  was  the  laughing  rejoinder.  "  But  it  would 
make  you  wink  to  see  our  circular  saws  at  work.  We  are  not 
Chinese,  but  Americans.  You  ought  to  visit  our  country  and 
take  some  lessons." 

The  man  put  his  tongue  in  his  cheek,  laid  his  plane  on  the 
wood,  and  resumed  his  work  without  condescending  to  bestow 
any  more  notice  upon  them. 

It  was  quite  a  walk  from  the  Kaga  yashiki  to  Asakusa, 
however,  the  day  was  fine  and  the  party  enjoyed  the  exercise. 

As  they  passed  through  the  street  leading  to  the  foot  of 
Uyeno  Hill,  they  stopped  before  a  bronze-maker's,  where  the 
workmen  were  busily  employed  upon  a  quaint  figure  support- 
ing a  lantern. 

"  What  a  comical-looking  creature  that  is,"  remarked  Fitz. 
e'  He  looks  like  a  colored  person." 

'This  is  Riu-to,  the  god  of  the  bottom  of  the  sea,"  said  the 
foreman  of  the  shop.  "  I  would  not  advise  you  to  be  disre- 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


spectful  to  him,  or  you  may  get  shipwrecked  some  time.     It  is 
fortunate  for  you  that  his  eyes  have  not  been  opened." 
"What?"  demanded  the  undaunted  boy. 
"You   must  be  very  ignorant  if  you  do   not  know  that," 
snapped  the  man.     "When  we  make  the  gods  they  are  blind. 
Our   customers   take   them  to   the  bozu   (priest)   who   blesses 

them    and    then    they    can    see 
everything." 

"Sure?"  said  Fitz. 
"Certainly,"  was  the  confi- 
dent reply,  "as  soon  as  this 
god  has  had  its  eyes  opened,  it 
will  see  and  hear  what  you  do, 
and  be  revenged  if  you  insult 
him." 

The  boy  began  to  chuckle, 
noticing  which,  his  sister  said 
in  English: 

"  Come  away,  Fitz." 
"  One    moment,"   remarked 
the  irrepressible  5  then,  turning 
to  the  idol-maker,  he  inquired: 
"Are    you   sure  that   the   gods 
can  see  everything  when  the  bozu  have  fixed  them?" 
"Just  as  sure  as  I  live,"  was  the  confident  rejoinder. 
"Why  do  you  not  take  your  blind  people  and  have  their 
eyes   opened  ? "  he  asked.     "  If  the  bozu  can  make   the  idols 
see,  surely  they  can  do   the   same   thing  for  your  unfortunate 
inekura" 

This  made  the  workmen  laugh,  they  evidently  enjoying 
their  foreman's  annoyance,  while  the  latter  turned  his  back 
upon  Fitz  and  said: 


RIU-TO  (SEA-GOD). 


n  ~r  <  !i  n  » n  'i  n  11  < '/ 


AGRICULTURAL   TOOL-SELLER. 


60  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  What  is  the  good  of  talking  to  people  who  are  so  ignorant? 
I  do  not  believe  they  have  any  gods  in  their  country." 

At  the  foot  of  Uyeno  Hill  they  saw  a  kara-kasa  uri  (um- 
brella seller)  kneeling  on  his  mat  and  offering  his  wares  to  a 
young  lady,  the  tie  of  whose  obi  (girdle)  stood  out  like  the 
wings  of  a  butterfly.  ''You  can  warrant  this,  can  you?"  she 
inquired,  opening  a  kara-kasa  and  examining  its  color.  "Well, 
I  think  I  will  take  it." 

"  Here  is  the  ring  to  keep  it  together,  Miss,"  he  said,  hold- 
ing out  the  article  referred  to.  "  If  you  do  not  use  this,  your 
umbrella  will  soon  get  out  of  shape." 

They  left  him  counting  over  the  paper  money  and  brass 
coins  he  had  received  from  her  in  payment. 

When  they  neared  Asakusa,  they  saw  a  hasho-dogu-uri 
(agricultural  tool-seller)  kneeling  upon  a  mat  placed  on  the 
sidewalk.  Before  him  was  a  book  in  which  he  entered  his 
sales,  and  on  his  right  a  tray  containing  an  ink-stone  and 
brushes  for  writing.  Scattered  about  upon  the  mats  were  the 
heavy  hoes,  rakes,  grass-scythes  and  clumsy  ploughs-  (literally 
mud  stirrers)  used  by  the  farmers. 

One  of  the  latter  class  was  paying  the  man  for  a  hoe  and 
grumbling  at  the  price,  saying: 

rf  We  have  to  work  half  our  time  for  you  fellows.  When  I 
was  a  boy,  tools  like  this  only  cost  a  third  of  what  you  charge, 
and  they  lasted  twice  as  long." 

"  In  those  days  my  father  only  paid  you  half  as  much  for 
his  rice,"  replied  the  ready-witted  implement  seller.  T  Thank 
you,  sir,  I  wish  you  a  safe  journey  home." 

"  Oto,"  inquired  Sallie,  "  please  tell  me  why  some  of  your 
people  grow  their  hair  in  the  American  fashion,  and  others 
shave  the  top  of  their  head  and  wear  a  little  queue." 

"  I  will,"  he   answered   in  a  low  tone.     "All  those  persons 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER. 


6l 


who  wear  their  hair  as  I  do,  are  not  following  the  American 
fashion.  It  is.  more  a  sign  that  they  belong  to  the  new  party, 
and  believe  in  the  government  religion,  Shinto.  Those  who 
shave  their  heads  and  wear  a  queue,  belong  to  the  Buddhist 
party,  and  think  a. great  deal  of  their  old  lords;  however,  the 
fashion  of  wearing  all  the  hair  will  soon  become  general 
among  our  people,"  add- 
ing slily,  "  because  it 
saves  the  barber's  fee." 

Just  then  a  shin-bun- 
shi-haidatsu  (newspaper 
carrier)  passed  them, 
shouting  something  that 
was  unintelligible  to  the 
Jewetts.  He  bore  a  box 
of  papers  over  his  right 
shoulder,  and  had  a  num- 
ber of  copies  in  his  left 
hand. 

"  Please,  sir,"  said  a 
girl  to  him,  "  have  you 
the  last  I-ro-ha  Shim-bun?" 

"Oh,  no!     Oh,  no!"  he  said.     "I  never  sell  such  rubbish." 

Away  he  went,  repeating  his  cry. 

:?  What  is  written  upon  that  woman's  parasol?"  asked 
Sallie. 

"That  is  J-iu  (everlasting),"  said  Oto.  "Our  manufac- 
turers often  mark  their  goods  thus.  I  do  not  imagine  it  will 
last  much  longer  than  an  ordinary  higasa" 

After  exploring  a  number  of  streets,  they  arrived  in  one 
occupied  by  makers  of  bowls,  trays  and  cabinet  wares;  when 
the  young  doctor  remarked :  "  Here  we  are  at  the  lacquer- 
man's." 


AGRICULTURAL   IMPLEMENTS. 


62  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

As  he  spoke  a  middle-aged  Japanese  advanced  to  the  front 
of  one  of  the  stores,  and  bowing,  murmured: 

"I  trust  your  honorable  excellency  is  in  the  possession  of 
good  health.  Since  I  left  your  honorable  care,  I  have  been 
perfectly  free  from  sickness.  I  have  thanked  the  gods  every 
day,  and  made  an  offering  to  Bindzuru  (the  helper  of  the 
sick)." 

"I  like  that,"  whispered  Fitz.  :tYou,  Oto,  have  cured  the 
fellow,  and  he  pays  your  fee  to  the  old  wooden  god,  Bindzuru. 
I  think  he  ought  to  have  given  you  the  money." 

"  Hush,"  breathed  Sallie.     "The  man  will  hear  you." 

Oto  introduced  the   lacquer-maker  as  Nishi  Gori  Yoheye. 

The  man  bowed  repeatedly,  sucked  in  his  breath,  and  said, 
as  he  led  the  way  into  his  store: 

"  I  understand  from  the  honorable  doctor  that  you  wish  to 
see  the  process  of  lacquering  goods.  I  must  tell  you  one 
thing,  the  urushi  (lacquer)  is  very  poisonous,  and  cannot  be 
worked  by  any  one  but  a  Japanese." 

"  We  are  not  desirous  of  going  into  the  business,"  said 
Johnnie.  "  Our  countrymen  would  like  to  know  how  you 
use  the  lacquer,  and  we  wish  to  be  able  to  inform  them." 

'*  Yes,  yes,  I  understand,"  was  the  smiling  response.  "  There 
are  man}7  ways  of  preparing  the  liquid.  I  use  principally  black 
and  red  lacquer  —  please  come  with  me." 

He  drew  aside  a  sliding-door,  and  conducted  them  into  a 
little  apartment,  filled  with  covered  tubs  containing  an  acrid- 
smelling  substance,  that  looked  like  molasses. 

"This  is  urushi  (lacquer),"  he  said.  "It  is  the  sap  of  a  tree 
that  is  found  all  through  Central  Japan,  and  is  obtained  by 
making  incisions  in  the  stems  and  branches.  When  we  desire 
to  make  the  lacquer  black,  we  add  to  it  a  small  quantity  of 
water  that  has  stood  for  several  days  in  a  vessel  containing 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER.  63 

iron-filings  and  crushed  gall-nuts.  After  this  has  been  well 
stirred  into  the  lacquer,  the  latter  becomes  a  glossy  black 
color.  When  we  wish  to  make  red  lacquer,  we  mix  the 


TOKIO   NEWSBOY. 


urushi  with  vermilion    and  stir  it  well,  then   strain  it  and  the 
article  is  ready  for  use.     Now  come  with  me." 

He  took  them  into  a  shed-like  building,  upon  the  floor  of 
which  were  a  number  of  workmen  lacquering  wooden  bowls 
and  trays  for  the  American  market. 


64  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

They  first  of  all  covered  the  joints  and  knots  with  linen 
gauze,  after  which  they  took  their  brushes  and  laid  on  the  lac- 
quer, just  as  our  workmen  do  shellac.  The  articles  were  next 
placed  in  boxes  lined  with  wet  paper;  the  urtishi  not  drying 
evenly  in  the  light  or  in  a  warm  atmosphere. 

As  soon  as  the  pieces  were  hard  enough,  which,  their 
guide  told  them,  often  took  several  days,  they  were  rubbed 
down  with  water  and  powdered  charcoal,  then  relacquered, — 
the  process  being  many  times  repeated.  Before  the  final 
polish  is  given,  the  article  is  decorated  with  gold  paint  or  in- 
laid with  mother  of  pearl,  then  once  more  relacquered;  the 
last  coating  being  polished  with  powdered  deer's  horn. 

The  common  ware,  such  as  this,"  said  the  manufacturer, 
"  only  has  a  few  coats  of  tirtishi,  while  the  finer  sorts  often 
have  from  fifty  to  a  hundred.  Please  come  into  the  next  de- 
partment, and  I  will  show  you  a  beautiful  cabinet  that  I  am 
making  for  one  of  our  nobles." 

They  followed  him  and  found  the  polishers  putting  the 
finishing  touches  to  an  exquisite  work  of  art.  The  front  panel 
represented  a  daimio  (great  Lord  of  old  Japan)  presenting 
one  of  his  clan  with  a  suit  of  armor.  The  figures,  which  were 
made  of  hard  lacquer  and  were  in  bas-relief,  were  beautifully 
carved  and  colored,  and  the  entire  panel  was  a  charming 
specimen  of  modern  Japanese  work. 

"  How  do  you  solidify  the  lacquer?  "  asked  Sallie. 

:<r  We  mix  it  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  apply  it  when  it 
is  like  a  thick  paste.  As  soon  as  it  hardens,  we  carve  it  as  we 
do  ivory.  It  takes  a  high  polish  and  is  not  at  all  brittle." 

"  Why  did  the  daimio  give  that  samurai  the  suit  of 
armor?"  asked  Fitz,  examining  the  panel. 

"  It  is  a  very  old  story,"  said  the  man.  "  During  the  wars 
of  the  Gen  and  Hai  (red  and  white  chrysanthemum),  the 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER. 


lord  of  Chiosu  sent  one  of  his  councillors  upon  a  dangerous 
expedition,  in  which  he  fell  into  an  arnbush,  had  his  armor  cut 
to  pieces  and  narrowly  escaped  with  life.  Upon  his  return, 
the  lord  sent  for  him,  and,  in  the  presence  of  the  assembled 
clansmen,  gave  him  a  magnificent  suit  of  his  armor,  saying: 
f  Wear  this  forever  in  token  of  my  appreciation  of  your  valor.' ': 

"  How  did  he  know  the  apparatus  would  fit  the  recipient?  " 
asked  Fitz.  . 

"  Don't  spoil  the  romance  of  the  story,"  said  Sallie. 

Among  the  decorations  of 
the  cabinet  was  a  figure  of  an 
aged  man,  sitting  on  the  bank 
of  a  river,  fishing. 

"Who  is  that  old  gentle- 
man ?  "  inquired  Fitz. 

"  The  illustrious  Tai-ko-bo, 
a  Chinese  sage,"  replied  the 
proprietor. 

"Is  he  dead?"  said  Fitz. 

'Yes,  he  has  been  dead  a 
long  time.  He  always  fished 
with  a  straight  hook  (smiling^) 
Very  extraordinary,  was  it  not? 
You  would  never  guess  what  he  caught." 

"Guess  he  caught  a  bad  cold,"  was  the  quick  response. 
"No?  —  Well,  the  Chinese  do  things  differently  from  other 
folks.  They  blow  starch  out  of  their  mouths  upon  our  shirt- 
bosoms,  and  iron  them  with  a  copper  dipper  filled  with  live 
charcoal." 

The  man  looked  puzzled,  so  Fitz  said:  "I  was  referring 
to  the  Chinese  washermen  in  the  States." 


TAI-KO-BO. 


66  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Please  tell  us  about  the  sage  Tai-ko-bo?"  urged  Sallie. 
*  You  must  not  notice  my  brother's  remarks." 

"I  do  not,"  said  the  lacquer-maker,  in  a  gentle  tone.  rr  He 
•is  very  young  and  does  not  venerate  the  sages.  This  is  what 
I  know  about  Tai-ko-bo.  Although  he  was  a  very  learned 
man  he  was  exceedingly  poor.  He  lived  in  the  town  of  I  on 
the  Isui  (river  I).  For  a  long  time  he  was  in  the  habit  of 
going  to  fish  in  the  stream,  but,  instead  of  using  a  barbed  hook, 
he  tied  a  piece  of  straight  copper  wire  to  the  end  of  his  line, 
and  did  not  carry  any  bait.  {Smiling.)  You  see  I  have  rep- 
resented that  on  the  cabinet.  People  often  said  to  him: 

' Honorable  Tai-ko-bo,  what  do  you  expect  to  catch?' 
'To  which  he  would,  reply: 

«fA  big  fish!' 

rr  I  should  think  he  was  not  quite  right  in  his  mind,"  inter- 
terposed  Fitz. 

The  man  regarded  him  pityingly,  then   calmly  continued: 

"One  day  Tai-ko-bo's  wife  came  to  him  and  said: 

?  Honorable  husband,  why  do  you  not  work  and  make 
some  money,  instead  of  trying  to  do  what  is  impossible?  You 
have  been  fishing  here  for  several  years,  and  have  not  even 
caught  an  ai  (minnow).' 

r  Women  never  know  what  is  passing  in  a  man's  mind,' he 
replied.  'Wait,  I  will  catch  a  big  fish.' 

'  She  pulled  up  his  line,  and  on  examining  the  hook  became 
very  angry,  saying: 

'You  have  been  making  fun  of  me  all  the  time,  I  will  not 
live  with  such  an  idiot.  Please  divorce  me.' 

"  One  morning  after  Tai-ko-bo  had  done  as  she  requested, 
the  emperor  came  by,  and  seeing  the  sage,  asked  what  he  was 
about.  Tai-ko-bo  replied  in  his  usual  fashion,  whereupon 
the  emperor  questioned  him,  when  he  said: 


68  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

:rl  am  showing  the  people  the  wisdom  of  waiting.  I  have 
been  five  years  watching  for  your  Majesty  to  come  this  way 
and  to  ask  me  this  question.  Nothing  good  is  done  in  a 
hurry.' 

'  The  emperor  talked  for  a  long  time  with  Tai-ko-bo,  then 
took  him  to  his  palace  and  gave  him  charge  of  his  troops,  re- 
marking: 

f  The  general  who  can  wait  will  always  achieve  a  victory!' 

"  When  Tai-ko-bo  was  once  riding  in  state,  surrounded  by 
his  soldiers,  he  saw  an  old  beggar  woman,  who,  kneeling, 
requested  permission  to  speak  to  him.  He  told  her  to  go  to 
his  mansion  and  await  his  return. 

"  After  several  hours  he  arrived  home,  then  ordered  her  to 
be  brought  into  his  presence,  and  thus  addressed  her: 

"Woman,  what  do  you  want  of  me?' 

:t  Honorable  Tai-ko-bo,'  she  replied,  rl  am  your  divorced 
wife.  I  beg  you  will  have  pity  upon  me  and  take  me  back! 
You  are  now  rich,  and  I  repent  ever  having  given  you  cause  to 
put  me  away.' 

"  He  looked  at  her  contemptuously,  filled  a  cup  with  water 
and  bade  her  take  it,  saying: 

1  ? Empty  that  on  the  ground! ' 

'The  amazed  woman  obeyed,  and  asked: 

"Now,  great  sir,  will  you  receive  me  back?" 

"  I  will,"  he  sternly  answered,  "  when  you  can  put  the 
water  you  have  spilt  back  into  that  cup!  " 

"  How  exceedingly  interesting,"  said  Sallie.  "  Thank  you 
very  much,  sir." 

They  quitted  the  shop  containing  the  cabinet,  and  visited 
many  sheds  in  which  they  saw  workmen  engaged  in  making 
ordinary  lacquer-ware,  such  as  boxes  and  bowls. 

"Where  does  all  that  cheap  stuff  go  to?"  asked  Johnnie. 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER. 


69 


f  To  America  and  Europe,"  replied  the  proprietor.  :<:  The 
Yokohama  merchants  will  buy  anything.  Our  people  are 
more  particular  and  will  only  purchase  goods  made  of  sea- 
soned wood." 

The  party  thanked  Mr.  Nishi  for  his  kindness,  then  bade 
him  farewell  and  proceeded  along  a  street  leading  to  the 
temple  of  Kuwannon. 


STREET  IN  ASAKUSA,  SUBURBS  OF  TOKIO. 

The  houses  were  thatched  and  presented  a  very  mean  ap- 
pearance, the  inhabitants  being  poor  people  who  could  not 
afford  to  keep  their  habitations  in  repair. 

'The  stores  in  this  quarter  do  not  make  much  of  a  display," 
remarked  Sallie.  "A  few  cases  of  kompeito  (candies),  boxes 
of  cakes  and  packages  of  dried  persimmons,  form  quite  a  stock 
in  trade  for  these  dealers." 

The  street  was  not  very  crowded,  and  no  one  on  it  appeared 
to  be  in  a  hurry.  A  man  was  leading  a  horse  laden  with 
buckets  of  fertilizer.  A  blind  shampooer  was  striking  his 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


stick  on  the  ground  and  whistling  for  customers.  A  little  boy 
was  bowing  to  another  child,  who  was  out  for  an  airing  with 
his  sister.  A  wandering  geisha  was  tinkling  her  samisen,  and 
the  store-keepers  were  looking  on  in  a  listless  manner,  as 
though  they  did  not  care  whether  they  sold  anything  or  not. 
There  are  miles  of  such  streets  in  the  city  of  Tokio,  and, 

as  every  other  house  is  a  shop,  it  is  a 
marvel  how  the  proprietors  contrive 
to  get  a  living. 

The  young  people  turned  the 
corner  and  found  themselves  in  a 
busy  thoroughfare,  the  sidewalks  of 
which  were  lined  with  peddlers  vo- 
ciferously crying  their  wares. 

rt  What  has  that  fellow  got  upon 
his  pole?"  asked  Fitz. 

TThat  is  an  omocha-uri  (travel- 
ing toy-seller),"  said    Oto.     "Those 
gaudy  objects  stuck  in   the  straw  on 
the  top  of  his  staff,  are  for  little  chil- 
dren.    Some    are    pin-wheels,    some 
flags,    and    others    drums.     All    our 
youngsters    like    to    play   with   those 
things.     See,  he   is  blowing  his  trumpet  to  attract  customers." 
Presently,  a   small   boy  with   his   head  partly  shaven,  ad- 
vanced in  great  haste,  shouting: 

"  Give   me   a  drum.     I    have  three  sen  to   spend.     I   want 
a  drum." 

The  omocha-uri   ceased   his   music,  lowered  his  pole,  and 
presenting  the  collection  to  the  child,  said: 

"  Honorable    master-boy,   choose    which    you   like.     They 
are  all  the  same  price,  exactly  three  sen  each." 


TENTO  (HEAVENLY  LAMP). 


TRAVELLING   TOY-SELLER. 


72  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  child  selected  a  pin-wheel,  paid  his  money  and  ran  off 
with  his  prize,  shouting: 

"Hail  hail  hail     (Look  out!)" 

A  little  further  on  they  saw  a  hideous  figure  of  bronze, 
placed  on  the  left  of  the  approach  to  a  temple.  It  represented 
a  demon  supporting  a  lantern  on  his  hand  and  shoulder. 

?  That  is  a  tento  (heavenly  lamp),  carried  by  an  oni  (imp)," 
remarked  Oto.  'The  inhabitants  of  this  quarter  erected  it 
there  as  a  mark  of  gratitude  for  being  spared  during  the  last 
cholera  visitation.  It  is  a  very  ancient  piece  of  work." 

"Why  does  he  not  have  a  twig  in  his  mouth?"  demanded 
Fitz. 

"  Oh,  brother,"  replied  Sallie,  "  how  can  the  oni  hold  any- 
thing in  its  mouth  when  it  is  depicted  as  screaming.  For  my 
part,  I  think  it  is  too  exquisitely  grotesque." 

"  It  is  too,  too  utterly  homely  to  suit  my  taste,"  mused  Fitz. 
'f  I  think  it  would  make  a  first-rate  scarecrow." 

On  one  of  the  doors  of  the  temple-gate,  was  a  bronze  figure 
of  an  ascending  dragon,  which  greatly  interested  Johnnie. 

rf  What  a  strange  monster  it  is!"  he  remarked  to  Oto.  "  Do 
you  believe  such  a  thing  ever  existed?" 

*  That  is  a  very  difficult  question  to  answer,"  replied  their 
amused  friend.  "  It  is  something  like  the  sea-serpent,  nobody 
can  swear  it  is  a  myth,  and  everybody  doubts  those  who  say 
they  have  seen  it.  Still,  I  believe  such  creatures  once  lived 
on  the  earth." 

"  Hullo!  "  exclaimed  Fitz.  "  Here  comes  &ronin.  Look 
at  his  hat." 

'r  He  is  a  cho-cho  uri  (paper  butterfvy  seller).  See  how 
that  boy  on  the  girl's  back  is  dancing  up  and  down  and  scream- 
ing for  one  of  the  articles.  They  are  very  cleverly  made,  and 
will  last  a  long  while." 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER. 


73 


"But  what  are  they  for?"  demanded  Fitz,  as  they  advanced 
to  the  man. 

"  They  are  toys,  and  are  sometimes  used  as  hairpins.     Our 
maid-servants   consid- 
er it  luck}-  to  wear  a 
butterfly  in  the  month 
of  March. " 

They  continued 
their  walk  until  they 
reached  a  corner  on 
which  a  man  was  seat- 
ed upon  a  mat,  ped- 
dling some  curious 
looking  musical  in- 
struments. 

:<:  That  is  <\.fuye-uri 
(whistle  seller),"  said 
their  friend.  "  See, 
there  is  a  blind  sham- 
pooer  going  to  make  a 
purchase." 

The  person  referred 
to,  placed  his  clogged 
feet  wide  apart, 
dropped  the  butt  of 
his  staff  on  to  the 
ground  and  said: 

"Hullo,  Mr.  Fuye-uri,  how  are  your  wares  selling  to-day?" 

"  I  have  a  beautiful  one  that  will  just  suit  you,"  replied  the 
peddler.  "  It  is  only  four  sen" 

"  I  do  not  want  any  of  your  four  sen  trumpery,"  returned 
the  amma,  thrusting  his  hand  into  his  wallet.  "  Give  me  the 
best  double-whistle  you  have  in  your  stock." 


ASCENDING   DRAGON. 


74  THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  fuye   uri  handed    him  what    he  required,  then    the 
shampooer  tried   the  article  and  paid  for  it.     Taking  his  staff 


PAPER-BUTTERFLY   SELLER. 


in  his  right  hand,  he  felt  his  way  down  the  street,  threading  in 
and  out  the  crowd  as  though  he  could  see;  every  now  and 
then,  blowing  a  succession  of  melancholy  notes  upon  his 
whistle. 


WHISTLE-SELLER. 


76  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF   TOKIO. 

"  Sallie,"  said  Oto,  as  they  neared  the  Kaga-yashiki,  "  I 
must  say  good  morning,  I  have  to  go  to  the  Ginko  (bank). 

"Cannot  we  accompany  you?"  she  asked. 

"  Certainly,"  he  replied,  "  but  you  must  be  tired.  I  think 
it  is  nearly  luncheon  time,  so  vote  we  postpone  our  visit  until 
two  o'clock." 

When  they  reached  home  they  found  Gosuke,  Johnnie's 
jin-riki-sha  man,  sweeping  the  lawn.  Seeing  them  he  bowed 
low  and  said: 

"  Very  soon  the  young  grass  will  be  up,  and  I  will  cut  it  so 
that  you  can  play  your  ball  game  (lawn-tennis).  No  one  in 
the  yashiki  has  such  a  beautiful  grass-plot  as  this.  Do  you 
know  the  reason?" 

"No,"  answered  Sallie,  who  delighted  to  listen  to  his 
stories.  "  What  is  the  cause?  " 

Gosuke  grinned  and  said: 

"  I  go  every  morning  and  make  an  offering  at  the  shrine  of 
the  god  Fox  —  that  is  why  the  grass  grows  so  nicely." 

They  all  smiled,  and  Sallie  remarked: 

"  I  do  not  think  the  god  Fox  has  very  much  to  do  with  it. 
I  should  say  that  you  deserve  all  the  credit  for  keeping  the 
place  in  such  good  order." 

The  man  bowed,  smiled  until  he  showed  all  his  upper 
teeth,  and,  regarding  her  through  his  half-closed  eyes,  answered : 

"Of  course  I  do  my  best,  honorable  O  jo-san  (Miss),  but, 
if  I  did  not  look  after  the  god  Fox,  the  grass  would  be  as  full 
of  dandelions  as  your  neighbor's." 

"  What  a  curious  superstition,"  said  Johnnie,  as  they  en- 
tered the  house.  "I  really  think  Gosuke  believes  what  he 
says.  You  must  own,  Oto,  that  your  poor  people  are  very 
credulous." 

The  young  doctor  laughed  and  shrugged  his  shoulders 
significantly. 


A    VISIT   TO    A   LACQUER-MAKER. 


77 


'*  Why  do  you  do  that?"  demanded  Fitz,  throwing  himself 
upon  a  lounge. 

"  I  cannot  help  smiling,"  said  Oto.  ;?  When  I  was  in  the 
States  I  saw  lots  of  signs  of  the  persons  whom  you  call  clair- 


GOSUKE,    JOHNNIE'S    JIN-RIKI-SHA    MAN. 

voyants.      I  think  there  are  a  good  many  credulous  people  in 
every  country." 

After  they  had  refreshed  themselves,  Sallie  went  to  her 
room  and  brought  out  a  picture,  which  she  exhibited  to  Oto, 
saying: 


78 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"Will  you  please  tell  me  what  this  means?  My  brothers 
and  I  have  been  arguing  about  it." 

"  I  know,"  interrupted  Fitz.  "  That  young  girl  has  just 
parted  with  her  admirer,  who  has  gone  off  in  one  of  those 
fune  (junks),  and  she  is  waving  good-by  to  him.  I  told 
Sallie  so,  and  she  will  not  believe  me." 


MURA-SAKI-SHIKIBU,    A   JAPANESE   POETESS. 

rfYou  are  wrong,  this  time,"  said  Oto.  r  The  lady  was  a 
celebrated  poetess,  named  Mura-saki-shikibu.  She  lived  a 
long  while  ago,  and  wrote  the  story  of  the  Genji." 

*  Why  does  she  leave  her  lamp  burning  when  it  is  day- 
light?" said  Fitz,  in  an  unconvinced  tone.  "She  is  not  writ- 
ing, anyhow." 

"  She  shut  herself  up  in  a  pavilion  and  completed  the 
poem  in  a  few  days,"  answered  Oto.  "  Being  much  absorbed 
in  her  occupation,  she  was  not  conscious  that  her  lamp  was 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER.  79 

burning   long  after   the  sun  had  risen  over  the  horizon.     The 
picture  represents  her  as  saluting  the  glorious  goddess." 

''Why  did  she  wear  her  hair  hanging  down  her  back  in 
such  an  untidy  way?'"1  asked  the  inquisitive  boy. 

"  All  poets  like  to  have  their  locks  flowing,  when  they  are 
composing  verses,"  replied  Oto. 

Fitz  whistled  and  remarked: 

"  I  told  Sallie  that  the  lady  was  short  of  hair-pins.  I  sup- 
pose nobody  could  write  poems'  if  they  had  their  hair  banged 
all  over,  as  I  used  to,  when  I  wrent  to  school." 

"  Fitz,  do  not  be  so  absurd,"  said  Sallie. 

tf  Boys,  are  you  ready  to  go  to  the  Ginko?" 

They  replied  in  the  affirmative,  and  ordering  their  jin- 
riki-sha,  started  from  the  yashiki. 

When  they  arrived  at  their  destination,  they  saw  a  police- 
man, in  foreign  uniform,  parading  in  front  of  the  building. 
He  was  a  wiry,  little  fellow,  and  he  carried  under  his  arm  a 
long  club  of  hard  wood. 

"My  gracious!''  whispered  Fitz.  "Don't  his  clothes  fit 
horribly?  His  jacket  is  shirred  under  the  arms,  and,  oh!  do 
look  at  his  trousers." 

The  officer,  whose  mouth  had  a  stern,  downward  curve,  on 
perceiving  Oto,  saluted  and  said: 

"  My  head  is  all  right  now,  Doctor/' 

"  Have  you  found  the  medicine  I  gave  you  beneficial?"  in- 
quired the  young  man,  as  he  dismounted  from  his  vehicle. 

"  I  presented  it  to  my  honorable  mother,"  gravely  answered 
the  policeman.  "She  had  rheumatism  in  her  ankles,  so,  of 
course,  I  did  not  think  of  myself.  I  am  pleased  to  tell  you 
that  it  has  completely  cured  her." 

The  Jewett  boys  waited  until  they  got  inside  the  bank 
building,  then  yielded  to  their  merriment. 


8o 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


WI  shall  die!     I  shall  die! "  said  Fitz.     "What  did  the  fel- 
low have  the  matter  with  him?" 
Oto  bit  his  lips,  then  said: 
w  Last  week,  when   the   policeman  was   engaged  in   sup- 


A   TOKIO   BANK. 

pressing  a  riot,  near  the  Nippon  bashi  (Great  Bridge  of  Japan), 
one  of  the  fishermen  struck  him  on  the  skull  with  a  bamboo 
and  rendered  him  insensible.  He  was  brought  to  the  hospital 
and  remained  two  days  in  my  ward.  On  leaving,  I  gave  him 
a  supply  of  powders  that  certainly  would  not  cure  the  rheu- 
matism. Though  those  junsa  know  very  little  about  medi- 


A    VISIT    TO    A    LACQUER-MAKER.  8l 

cine,  they  are  by  no  means  uneducated  in  other  matters,  and 
are  very  smart  officers." 

"  Yes,"  said  Johnnie,  with  a  nod,  "  the  way  they  will  club 
a  poor  coolie  and  take  him  into  custody  is  a  caution  to  law- 
breakers, —  the  thieves  are  afraid  of  them." 

'"That  is  more  than  they  are  of  our  policemen,"  said  Sallie. 
"  I  do  not  see  much  to  laugh  at  in  what  the  man  said.  He 
was  evidently  willing  to  sacrifice  himself  for  his  mother." 

They  went  into  a  spacious  counting-room  filled  with  clerks, 
busily  engaged  in  making  entries  in  large  books  of  thin  Jap- 
anese paper. 

Oto  handed  a  check  to  the  paying-teller,  and  received  a 
pile  of  kinsatsu  (currency),  then,  as  he  counted  it,  said  to  his 
companions: 

"Do  you  want  to  go  over  the  building?  I  know  one  of 
the  chief  officials." 

His  friends  said  that  they  would  like  to  see  where  the 
money  was  kept,  so  Oto  led  the  way  upstairs,  and  introduced 
them  to  his  acquaintance;  who,  after  saluting  them  respect- 
fully, said: 

'  This  edifice  was  erected  specially  for  banking  purposes, 
is  fire  and  burglar-proof,  and  will  stand  any  ordinary  earth- 
quake. It  is  three  stories  high,  and  the  lower  floor  is  of  solid 
stone  laid  in  cement." 

"Can  we  see  the  place  where  you  keep  the  money?"  in- 
quired Johnnie. 

The  official  showed  them  into  several  apartments  filled 
with  clerks  who  were  working  very  hard,  or  pretending  to  do 
so,  then  led  the  way  into  the  vaults  on  the  first  floor.  Holding 
a  light  above  his  head,  he  revealed  stacks  of  kinsatsu  piled 
in  the  recesses. 

:?  Where  do  you  keep  your  gold  and  silver?"  asked  Fitz. 


82  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  We  have  none,"  was  the  calm  reply.  "  The  Yokohama 
merchants  use  specie,  while  we  have  not  seen  any  for  some 
time." 

"What?"  said  Johnnie,  producing  a  bank  bill.  "Do  you 
really  mean  to  say  that  you  could  not  give  me  silver  or  gold 
for  this  if  I  very  much  wanted  it." 

"  We  could  not,"  said  the  official.  "  There  is  not  a  bank 
in  Tokio  that  could  do  it.  A  few  years  ago  your  banks  were 
just  as  unable  to  redeem  their  notes." 

"When  will  you  resume  specie  payments?"  demanded  the 


The  gentleman  sighed,  shook  his  head  and  said: 

w  Nobody  knows.  So  long  as  the  people  will  take  this 
paper  money,  everything  will  go  right;  but  if  they  were  to 
refuse  it,  all  the  banks  would  break,  and  the  nation  would  be 
irretrievably  bankrupted." 

The  official  explained  the  system  of  keeping  the  books, 
then  invited  the  visitors  to  partake  ol  refreshments.  On  part- 
ing with  them  he  said: 

"  I  would  like  to  spend  a  few  years  in  your  honorable 
country.  I  read  your  newspapers,  and  know  all  about  Wall 
Street.  We  are  now  establishing  a  Stock  Exchange  and 
Clearing  House,  after  the  American  model." 

They  bade  him  adieu,  and,  as  they  entered  their  jin-riki- 
sha,  Oto  said: 

"The  next  time  I  have  a  holiday  the  cherry  trees  will  be 
in  bloom.  You  know  the  old  saying:  'If  you  want  a  beau- 
tiful perfume  go  to  the  ume  (plum  blossom).  But  when 
you  behold  the  glorious  sakura  (cherry)  you  forget  that  it  is 
scentless.'" 


HOW    THE  JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  83 


CHAPTER  IV. 

HOW    THE  JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK. 

"  I  opened  my  window,  this  morning,  and  beheld  the  distant  mountains  a  mass  of 

dazzling  white. 
"  Happily,  instead  of  unseasonable   snow,  the   beautiful   appearance  was  caused  by 

the  blossoming  of  the  sakura  (cherry)  trees." 

T^OUR  jin-riki-sha  were  standing  at  the  door  of  He-yaku- 
1  ban  (Number  one  hundred)  Kaga  Yashiki,  and  the  four 
men  were  chatting  to  each  other  after  the  manner  of  their 
class. 

"I  agree  with  you,  Choso,"  said  big  Gosuke,  "our  master- 
boys  are  very  inquisitive,  there  is  no  denying  that.  They  are 
not  satisfied  with  one  question,  but  must  needs  ask  fifty  upon 
every  subject." 

"My  young  mistress  is  the  angel,"  said  old  Sobei.  "She 
is  always  kind,  and  is  constantly  giving  me  extra  fees.  I  tell 
her  that  I  have  an  honorable  mother  to  support,  when  she 
presents  me  with  a  few  sen  for  my  parent.  Of  course  I  spend 
them  on  sak£" 

**  Yeh!"  said  Gosuke.  "You  are  a  mean  fellow  to  deceive 
the  beautiful  little  O  Sallie  Sama.  Although  I  like  a  cup  of 
sake,  I  would  not  obtain  it  by  such  means.  It  is  fellows  like 
yourself  who  get  \\s  jin-riki-sha  men  a  bad  name." 

Sobei  grinned,  and,  making  a  gesture  of  caution,  said: 

"Here  come  our  employers." 

As  he  spoke,  Sallie,  Fitz,  Johnnie,  and  Oto  came  out  of 
the  house,  and  the  former  said: 

"Boys,  I  propose   that  we  let  our  jin-riki-sha  follow  us 


84 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


to-day.  This  beautiful,  balmy  air  is  perfectly  charming,  and  I 
think  we  can  walk  to  Mukojima."  . 

Johnnie  and  Oto  gave  their  orders  to  the  men,  then  the 
young  lady  and  her  three  attendants  bade  adieu  to  the  Pro- 
fessor and  Mrs.  Jewett,  and  quitted  the  compound. 

As  they  approached  the  great  gate-way,  they  heard  the 
tinkling  of  a  samisen,  and  beheld  two  komusu  (vagabond 
musicians)  seated  upon  a  piece  of  matting. 


STROLLING   MUSICIANS. 


On  seeing  the  party,  the  younger  of  the  komusu,  a  very 
fat  child  of  fourteen,  folded  her  hands  and  began  to  sing  in  a 
shrill  falsetto,  while  her  mother  occasionally  added  a  quaver- 
ing note,  and  accompanied  the  vocalist  upon  the  samisen. 

The  friends  stopped  and  listened  to  the  dismal  wailing,  see- 
ing which  the  child  opened  her  mouth  to  its  fullest  extent  and 
redoubled  her  efforts  to  please  her  audi'ence. 

"Why  do  you  have  that  book  of  words  before  you?"  in- 
quired Sallie.  rc  You  never  look  at  it." 


HOW    THE   JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  85 

The  komusu  bowed  until  their  heads  touched  the  mat,  then 
the  woman  said: 

"  Honorable  lady,  all  our  celebrated  geisha  use  a  book  in 
that  way,  we  only  follow  their  example." 

T  They  are  just  like  our  celebrated  singers,"  said  Fitz  to 
Oto.  'f  When  Sallie  sang  at  the  church  fair  she  held  her 
music  upside  down,  —  a  lot  of  good  it  was  to  her." 

"  Please  hush,  Fitz  Jewett,"  exclaimed  his  sister.  "  I  do 
not  want  you  to  tell  on  me." 

f'Oh!  Sallie,  you  know  it  is  true,"  he  answered.  "When  I 
spoke  about  it,  you  said  your  music  teacher  always  did  the 
same.  I  think  you  need  not  criticize  that  poor  little  komusu" 
adding,  slily,  "Isn't  her  costume  utter?  It  is  covered  with 
sun-flowers." 

:?  Would  you  like  to  see  my  daughter  perform  the  tokoyami 
(Uzume's  dance)  ?  "  inquired  the  woman,  as  she  picked  up  the 
coins  that  the  boys  threw  upon  the  mat. 

:f  Yes,  go  ahead,"  said  Fitz.  "  If  she  does  it  well,  we  will 
give  her  ten  sen" 

This  delighted  the  child,  who  rose,  produced  a  cluster  of 
copper  bells,  fastened  to  a  handle,  and  began  to  dance  and 
sing: 

"  Hito,  fit  la,  mtyo, 
Itsu,  imiyu,  nana, 
Ya.  koko-no  tari^ 
Jfomo,  chi,  yorodzu." 
(One,  two,  three,  four, 
Five,  six,  seven, 
Eight,  nine,  ten. 
Hundred,  thousand,  ten  thousand. 

f?  I  know  that  song,"  said  Johnnie.  :?  Professor  W.  E. 
Griffis  has  quoted  it  in  three  ways,  first  giving  the  numerals, 
then  this: 


86  THE    WONDERFUL,    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Ye  gods,  behold  the  cavern  doors  ! 
Majesty  appears  —  hurra  ! 
Our  hearts  are  quite  satisfied  ; 
Behold  my  charms." 

w  Have  you  ever  seen  his  'Japanese  Fairy  World  ? ' "  asked 
Oto. 

:<:  Yes,  indeed,"  replied  Sallie.  "  All  of  us  have  read  the 
book  a  dozen  times.  His  *  Mikado's  Empire'  gave  us  our 
first  correct  idea  about  your  country." 

"  I  know  the  Professor  very  well,"  said  Oto.  '?  I  had  the 
happiness  of  being  one  of  his  pupils." 

The  little  komusu  twirled  round  and  round,  jingled  her 
bells,  and  pretended  to  wave  a  gohei,  then  suddenly  flinging  a 
handkerchief-  off  her  shoulder,  sank  upon  the  mat,  bowed, 
and  said: 

"  I  am  waiting  for  your  honorable  approval." 

They  gave  her  some  more  money  and  passed  through  the 
gate;  nodding  to  the  old  mom-ban,  who  saluted  them  respect- 
fully and  said: 

"  It  gladdens  me  to  see  such  handsome  young  people." 

-t  Why  is  the  goddess  Uzume  always  pictured  with  a  fat 
face?"  inquired  Johnnie. 

"  I  suppose  because  she  was  very  good-tempered,"  replied 
Oto.  "She  lived  long  before  the  invention  of  photography,  so 
1  reckon  her  portrait  is  not  a  correct  one." 

"  It  is  about  as  much  like  her  as  the  picture  of  Adam  is 
like  the  first  man,"  said  Fitz.  ""  Both  of  them  are  near  enough, 
anyhow." 

They  walked  until  they  came  to  a  street  corner,  where  a 
i^eta-naoshi  (clog-cobbler)  was  squatting  on  a  piece  of  old 
matting,  busily  employed  mending  some  clogs.  On  his  right 
was  a  barrel,  bearing  the  inscription  yo-sui  (water  stored),  sur- 


UZUME  DANCIXG  THE  TOKOYAMI. 


88 


THE    WONDERFUL   CITY    OF   TOKIO. 


mounted  by  a  plank  and  a  bucket.  Upon  his  left  was  a  porta- 
ble box,  containing  a  little  saw  and  other  tools.  He  was  a 
lean,  melancholy-featured  youth,  and  even  when  he  spoke  did 
not  look  at  them. 

"  Can  you  tell  us  the  way  to  Rogetsu  cho  (street)  ? "  in- 
quired Oto. 

"  First  turning  to  the  right,"  mumbled  the  man,  continuing 
his  occupation. 


CLOG-COBBLER. 


"For  what  is  that  barrel  of  water?"  demanded  Johnnie. 

'  To  use  in  case  of  fire,"  was  the  unmoved  response.  "  I 
thought  every  child  knew  that." 

They  left  him  tapping  at  the  clog  and  singing  to  himself  in 
a  peculiar  manner. 

"  He  is  a  surly  fellow,"  said  Fitz. 

"  No,  he  is  bashful,"  said  Sallie.  r  He  is  not  used  to  ad- 
dressing foreigners  and  he  felt  timid." 


HOW    THE  JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  89 

"Pooh!"  said  Fitz.     "It  is  not  bashfulness,  it  is  ill  temper." 

They  easily  found  the  street  and  the  shop  of  a  man  named 
Maru-naka,  who  came  out  to  welcome  them  and  saluting  Oto, 
said: 

"  How  is  my  little  boy,  honorable  doctor?  " 

*  Tsuna  is  progressing  finely,  and  will  be  home  with  you  in 
a  week  or  so,"  answered  the  young  man.  "  He  is  most  patient 
and  everybody  likes  him  very  much.  I  have  brought  my 
friends,  for  you  to  show  them  how  you  make  Indian  ink.  I 
suppose  you  have  no  objection  to  doing  so." 

The  manufacturer  sucked  in  his  breath,  bowed  and  said: 

f  There  is  nothing  I  would  not  do  for  the  honorable  Doctor 
Nambo.  Please  come  in,  and  I  will  explain  everything  to 
your  friends." 

They  slipped  off  their  shoes,  and  stepping  upon  the  matted 
floor  of  the  front  shop,  squatted  in  Japanese  fashion.  Maru- 
naka  offered  Oto  a  light  for  his  pipe  and  ordered  a  boy  to 
bring  his  visitors  some  tea. 

"Why  do  you  put  on  your  sign  f Manufacturer  of  fine  Nara 
ink?'  "  asked  Johnnie. 

The  man  smiled,  bowed  and  said: 

"  What  are  the  names  of  the  two  principal  cities  in  Amer- 
ica?" 

"New  York  is  our  chief  city,"  answered  Fitz;  "but  the 
name  of  the  next  depends  on  where  you  come  from.  A  Bos- 
ton boy  says  Boston.  A  Philadelphian  gives  the  name  of  his 
own  city,  and  a  Chicago  lad  does  the  same." 

The  man  regarded  him  wiih  a  puzzled  air,  then  said: 

"We  will  suppose  that  your  best  ink  is  made  in  New 
York." 

"It  is  not,"  returned  Fitz. 

"We  will  suppose  it  is,"  gently  repeated  the  man.     "Now, 


9° 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF   TOKIO. 


would  not  a  Boston   maker  put  on  his  sign  'New  York  ink 
made  here '  ?  " 

"  Well,  he  might,"  returned  the  lad.  "  Now  I  understand 
the  meaning  of  your  announcement.  People  think  more  of 
your  article  because  you  advertise  it  as  Nara  ink.  Yes,  we  do 
that  sort  of  thing  in  the  States.  New  York  restaurateurs  put 
on  their  signs  c  Boston  baked  beans.' ' 

The  man  smiled  and  taking  a  number  of  boxes  from 
the  shelves  surrounding  the  store,  ex- 
hibited cakes  of  ink  ranging  in  value 
from  one  rin  (mill)  to  ten  yen  (dol- 
lars) . 

"  This  is  from  Nara,"  he  said,  show- 
ing them  a  small,  closely  grained  speci- 
men; "it  is  very  fine,  and  is  stamped 
with  the  figure  of  Jiu-ro  the  patron  of 
scholars.  I  once  had  some  Chinese 
ink  that  I  sold  for  twenty-five  yen  a 
cake.  It  smelt  like  the  breath  of  the 
gods." 

He  replaced  the  boxes  on  the 
shelves  and  bowing,  said: 

"Now  if  you  are  rested,  I  will  show 
you  over  my  manufactory." 

As  the  proprietor  led   the  way  to 
the  rear  of  the  building,  Fitz  eagerly  inquired: 

"  Do  you  use  anything  in  your  business  which  is  liable  to 
affect  us  injuriously?  Last  month  I  went  to  see  the  lacquer- 
workers,  and  was  so  badly  poisoned  that  my  head  swelled  to 
twice  its  natural  size,  and  I  had  a  rash  come  out  all  over 


JIURO,    GOD   OF   LEARNING. 


me. 


"  Mine  is  a  very  delightful  business  compared  with  lacquer- 


HOW    THE   JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  91 

making,"  said  the  man,  drawing  aside  a  paper  door.  "  Please 
follow  me." 

The  party  entered  a  large,  barn-like  apartment,  on  the  floor 
of  which  a  score  of  men,  women,  boys  and  girls  were  seated, 
stirring  black-looking  paste  in  large  copper  bowls  set  in  hot 
water-baths. 

"Jemmy!  "  cried  Fitz.     :?  What  a  peculiar  odor." 

"That  comes  from  the  ox-skin  glue,"  said  Maru-naka. 
"  We  make  our  ink  from  the  very  best  sesamum-oil  lamp- 
black. This  we  mix  with  liquid  glue  in  these  hot  water-baths 
and  stir  the  mass  until  a  stick  will  stand  upright  in  it.  We 
perfume  the  very  expensive  kinds  with  musk  and  Chinese 
scents,  and  sometimes  add  carthamine  (safflower  dye)  to  it. 
You  will  observe  that  as  soon  as  the  mass  is  thick  enough,  it  is 
scraped  out  of  the  bowls,  placed  in  tubs  and  sent  into  the  next 
department." 

"My  goodness!  how  black  everybody  is!"  ejaculated 
Sallie.  :<:  Will  they  ever  get  themselves  clean?" 

"  Oh,  yes!  "  answered  the  proprietor,  "  they  go  to  the  public 
bath  every  night.  The  ink  does  not  hurt  them  at  all.  Please 
come  this  way." 

They  followed  him  into  another  shed  where  they  saw  men, 
women  and  children  making  the  ink  into  cakes. 

"  See,"  said  their  guide,  taking  two  wooden  moulds  and  a 
spatula,  "  I  fill  each  of  these  with  the  soft  paste,  press  them  to- 
gether, lift  off  the  upper  half,  knock  the  compressed  cake  into 
my  left  hand,  and  you  behold  the  finished  article." 

"How  do  you  dry  it?"  inquired  Johnnie. 

The  manufacturer  showed  them  a  large  copper  dish  sunk 
in  the  floor,  filled  with  sheets  of  very  coarse,  straw  paper,  on 
which  rested  hundreds  of  the  moist  cakes  of  ink. 

"This  is  our  oven,"  he  said.     "As  soon  as  it  is  full  we  put 


92 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


on  the  metal  lid,  take  hot  ashes  from  the  fire,  place  them  on  it, 
and  lute  the  edges  of  the  vessel  with  wet  clay.  In  a  few  hours 
the  ink  is  as  hard  as  iron  and  ready  to  be  painted  or  gilt." 

Maru-naka  asked  them  to  accompany  him  to  a  fourth  apart- 


SINGING-GIRL   VISITING   HER   FRIENDS. 


ment,  where  they  found  his  wife  and  children  decorating  the 
sticks  of  ink  with  gold  and  colors. 

At  the  further  end  of  the  room  sat  a  young  woman  playing 
a  samisen.  Upon  seeing  the  boys  she  placed  her  instrument 
on  the  floor  and  glanced  bashfully  downward,  then  taking  up 
her  long  pipe,  lighted  it  and  smoked  rapidly. 

'That  is  my  wife's  sister,  O  Hana  (Miss  Flower),"  whis- 
pered their  host.  "  She  is  a  very  celebrated  geisha,  and  some- 
times comes  here  to  charm  us.  Would  you  like  to  hear  her 
sing?  " 

"  Thank  you  very  much,"  said  Sallie,  "  but  I  am  afraid  we 


HOW    THE  JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  93 

have  already  trespassed  too  long  on  your  time.  Will  you 
kindly  tell  us  what  colors  you  employ  in  decorating  your  ink?" 

"We  generally  use  vegetable  paint,"  he  said.  "  It  is  merely 
to  make  it  attractive  to  the  eye." 

"What  building  is  that  represented  on  your  screen?"  asked 
Johnnie. 

'  The  temple  of  Dai  Butsu  at  Nara.  I  made  a  pilgrimage 
there  last  year  which  has  given  me  a  great  reputation  in  the 
trade." 

:t  Why  do  you  stamp  your  goods  with  Chinese  characters  ?  " 
said  Fitz.  "  If  I  were  you  I  would  put  my  own  name  on 
them." 

?  Then  they  would  never  sell,"  was  the  frank  reply.  "  I 
mark  some  of  the  cakes  ?  sweetly  perfumed  flower  of  the 
plum-tree,"  and  others  with  the  seals  of  the  great  Chinese  and 
Nara  makers." 

"  We  should  call  that  forgery,"  said  Johnnie.  "  Do  the 
Chinese  and  the  Nara  men  never  complain  of  you?" 

Maru-naka  shook  his  head  and  naively  replied: 

"They  do  not  know  anything  about  it.  Do  your  honorable 
people  never  make  things  and  call  them  Japanese  ?  " 

"I  guess  they  do,"  said  Fitz.  :?  You  are  not  the  only  man 
who  puts  another  person's  trade-mark  on  his  goods." 

:?  We  all  do  it,"  was  the  innocent  rejoinder.  "  I  have  made 
the  pilgrimage  to  Nara,  therefore  consider  I  am  entitled  to 
stamp  that  name  on  my  ink." 

"Listen,"  said  Sallie;  "what  noise  is  that?" 

rThis  is  the  eighth  day  of  the  fourth  month,"  said  Maru- 
naka.  "It  is  the  festival  of  O  Shaka  no  Tanjiyo  or  Ku~<van 
Butsu-ye  (washing  of  the  holy  child,  Shaka.)  Would  you 
like  to  witness  it?" 

"We  admire  to  see  anything  that  is  comical,"  said  Fitz. 


94 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"Oh,  brother!  brother!  "  whispered  Sallie.     "Do  not  talk 
that  way." 

frl  don't  believe  in  Shaka,"  said  the  ink  manufacturer.      "I 


STONE-CUTTERS. 


am  a  Shintoist.     If  you  like,  you  can  go  through  my  garden  to 
the  temple." 

The  boys  thanked  him  for  his  courtesy,  then  the  friends 
quitted  the  premises  and  walked  through  a  garden  into  the  en- 
closure in  which  stood  the  sacred  edifice. 


HOW    THE   JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  95 

At  the  side  of  the  building  they  saw  some  masons  at  work 
making  tombstones  and  other  monuments. 

"  Why  is  that  slab  marked  Hono  (presented  to)  ?  "  asked 
Sallie. 

f  That  is  ready  for  any  person's  name,"  said  Oto.  "  Do 
look  at  that  beautiful  stone  lantern;  is  it  not  charmingly  pro- 
portioned ?  " 

'"•  Yes  —  it  is  not  a  badly-made  toro"  said  Fitz.  "See  the 
ishi-ya  (stone-cutter)  putting  the  finishing  touches  to  that 
granite  fox.  I  suppose  it  is  for  some  shrine." 

The  workman  paused  in  his  occupation,  and,  turning  to  the 
boy,  bowed  and  said: 

"  This,  O  bos-an,  is  for  exportation.  We  make  lots  of 
such  things  to  send  to  America.  I  hear  your  honorable  people 
have  begun  to  worship  the  god-fox." 

"Then  you  know  more  than  we  do,"  said  Sallie.  "My 
countrymen  only  regard  them  as  curiosities." 

"  Do  you  hear  that,  Sachi  ?"  said  the  stone-cutter,  addressing 
his  mate. 

The  man  bowed,  and  looking  up  at  Fitz,  inquired: 

"Honorable  young  master-boy,  do  you  want  to  buy  a  tomb- 
stone?" 

"Do  I  look  as  though  I  did?"  was  the  laughing  response. 

rf  You  may  soon  require  one,"  was  the  grim  retort.  "  It  is 
a  good  thing  to  purchase  such  a  thing  when  you  are  young." 

"Will  you  not  trim  the  sides  of  that  stone  and  round  off  the 
top?"  said  Johnnie. 

"  No.  Such  tablets  are  no  longer  fashionable,"  said  the 
man.  "  A  few  years  ago  we  used  to  cut  them  as  you  describe, 
now  it  is  considered  more  proper  to  have  them  irregular,  just 
as  they  did  in  the  olden  times." 

"I  understand,"  said  the  merry  boy.  "You  have  a  fashion 
in  tombstones  as  well  as  in  everything  else." 


96  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

They  quitted  the  ishi-ya  and  proceeded  to  a  keidai  (en- 
closure) in  front  of  the  building,  discovered  a  temporary  do 
(shrine),  erected  in  the  courtyard.  On  a  stand  in  this  edifice 
was  a  lotus,  supporting  a  canopy  representing  the  Ten-gai 
(heavenly  hat),  beneath  which  was  a  copper  figure  of  Shaka, 
standing  in  a  lotus-shaped  bowl. 

At  each  corner  of  the  structure  were  vases  filled  with  na 
(yew)  flowers,  and  in  front  of  it  was  a  koro  (incense  burner) 
and  a  lighted  candle. 

A  crowd  swarmed  about  the  edifice,  and  every  now  and 
then  a  worshipper  would  take  a  his-hia-ku  (small  bamboo  dip- 
per) filled  with  hama-cha  (tea  sweetened  with  kanzo  (liquor- 
ice) or  kosui  (scented  water  made  of  incense)  and  pour  the 
liquid  over  the  figure  of  Shaka,  while  the  lookers-on  bowed 
and  repeated  the  prayer: 

" Namu  Amida  Butsu" 

As  the  party  were  watching  the  scene,  a  bozu,  carrying  in 
his  left  hand  a  bucket  containing  a  little  figure  of  Shaka,  and 
in  his  right  a  fan,  quitted  the  group  and  started  for  the  main 
gate,  shouting: 

"Won't  you  buy  my  hama-cha  to  wash  my  Shaka?" 

"  He  peddles  the  sweet  tea,"  said  Oto.  "  People  who  are 
sick  and  cannot  come  to  the  temples,  buy  of  him  and  bathe  the 
little  image  he  carries.  This  festival  is  really  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  birth  of  Buddha  and  is  equivalent  to  your  Christ- 
mas Day.  We  have  a  saying: 

" '  ICam-butsu-ya 
Medetaki  koto  ni 
Tera  mairi? 

(At  the    bathing   of  Buddha,  as   on  an   occasion  of  mirthful 
congratulation,  we  go  to  the  temple.)  " 


CERFMONY    OF    WASHING    THE    INFANT 


98  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"I  understand  the  hidden  joke,"  said  Sallie.  "It  means, 
that  under  ordinary  circumstances,  one  does  not  joyfully  go  to 
the  temple,  but  on  this  occasion  the  visit  is  one  of  real 
pleasure." 

They  quitted  the  place,  and  on  arriving  at  the  main  gate, 
were  surrounded  by  old  women  and  poor  priests  peddling  the 
hama-cha  and  na  flowers. 

"Won't  you  take  some  home  for  your  honorable  mother?" 
said  a  bozu,  who  squinted  horribly,  pushing  himself  before 
Fitz.  *  This  hama-cha  is  very  good  for  diseases  of  the  eye." 

He  was  so  importunate  that  the  boy  turned  to  him  an4 
•said, — 

tf  If  your  hama-cha  is  what  you  say,  why  do  you  not  use 
some  of  it?  " 

His  rebuff  caused  the  bozu  to  grimace,  and  made  the  other 
vendors  shout  derisively. 

"  Here  are  our  jin-riki-sha"  said  Oto;  "are  you  not  tired  of 
walking?  I  am.  Where  would  you  like  to  go  now,  shall  we 
take  a  ride  in  the  suburbs  before  visiting  Mukojima?" 

"  We  are  willing,"  answered  the  Jewetts. 

They  entered  their  vehicles  and  were  soon  far  from  the 
temple,  in  a  district  occupied  by  lumber  merchants. 

"Oh!  do  look  at  that  ko-bi-ki"  (sawyer),  said  Fitz,  waving 
them  to  stop. 

The  man  referred  to  was  kneeling  on  a  piece  of  old  matting 
sawing  a  log  of  timber  into  planks.  He  pulled  the  instrument 
toward  him  and  labored  so  hard,  that  Johnnie  said, — 

"Why  don't  you  buy  an  American  saw?  It  would  go 
through  that  timber  like  a  hot  knife  through  butter." 

The  man  paused  in  his  work,  took  up  his  pipe-case  and 
tobacco-pouch  that  were  lying  near,  and,  stirring  the  ashes  in  a 
fire-bowl,  lighted  his  pipe,  puffed  the  smoke  through  his 
nostrils,  and  said:- 


HOW    THE   JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK. 


99 


w  Every  man  to  his  taste.  Life  is  not  long  enough  to  learn 
two  ways  of  sawing  when  one  will  do.  I  have  a  family  to  sup- 
port and  cannot  afford  to  try  experiments." 


SAWYER   AT   WORK. 


Behind  him  were  his  account-books,  marked  respectively 
w  cash,"  and  "  orders." 

:r  You  see,  I  do  a  good  business,"  he  continued.  "  I  know 
a  man  who  was  foolish  enough  to  buy  one  of  your  saws.  The 
first  clay  he  used  it,  it  broke  and  nearly  killed  him.  You  do 
not  catch  me  following  his  example." 


100  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

He  resumed  his  work,  and  when  the  boys  left  him  he  was 
rasping  away  and  uttering  a  grunting  noise  at  every  stroke. 

Upon  reaching  the  suburbs  they  passed  along  some  rice 
swamps,  in  which  laborers  were  wading  and  sowing  the  grain. 
The  fellows  regarded  them  with  comical  amazement,  and  made 
sly  remarks  to  one  another  concerning  the  boys'  appearance. 

"Have  you  never  seen  foreigners  before?"  inquired  Oto. 

:t  Yes,"  said  the  farmer,  pausing  in  his  occupation.  "  I 
always  grin  when  I  look  at  your  honorable  friends,  they  are  so 
much  like  monkeys." 

"  Thank  you,"  said  Fitz. 

"Oh,  you  speak  our  language,  do  you?"  said  the  astonished 
man,  bowing  until  his  head  almost  touched  the  mud.  "  Hon- 
orable Sir,  I  beg  you  a  hundred  thousand  pardons." 

"  I  will  forgive  you,  this  time,"  was  the  merry  response. 
"  Why  do  you  sow  the  rice  in  such  a  wet  place?  " 

:tThe  moisture  makes  it  sprout,"  answered  the  man.  "It 
lies  in  the  nice,  rich  mud  until  the  sun  warms  it,  when  it  comes 
up  all  green  and  beautiful,  and  we  transplant  it." 

After  partaking  of  refreshments  at  a  little  wayside  tea- 
house, they  re-entered  their  jin-rika-sha  and  soon  arrived  at 
Mukojima,  (the  island  beyond  the  river). 

The  road  by  the  side  of  the  Sumida-gawa  was  bordered 
with  beautiful  cherry  trees,  that  arched  overhead  and  were 
laden  with  masses  of  pink  and  white  double  flowers.  It  was  a 
sight  that  made  the  Americans  shout  with  delight. 

"Oh!   is  not  this  lovely?"  cried  Sallie. 

"Beautiful!"  exclaimed  Johnnie. 

"Splendid!  "  said  Fitz.  "Wouldn't  I  like  to  be  here  when 
the  cherries  are  ripe  ?  " 

'  These  trees  do  not  bear  fruit,"  quietly  remarked  Oto. 

"  I  call  that  mean,"  growled  Fitz.  "  Blooms  like  that 
ou^ht  to  be  followed  by  cherries  as  biff  as  oranges." 

«/  o  f> 


102 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"Our  double  cherry  trees  do  not  bear  fruit,"  said   Sallie. 
w  I  shall  never  forget  this  scene  as  long  as  I  live." 

They  wandered  up  and    down   the  flower-decked  avenue 


SINGING-GIRL    AND    HER    SERVANT. 


until  sunset  and  watched  the  crowd  of  Japanese  visitors,  who, 
like  themselves,  enjoyed  the  glorious  sight.  • 

As  they  returned  to  their  jin-riki-sha,  they  met  a  hand- 
somely dressed  girl,  who  wore  an  obi  of  bright  brocade  and 
who  was  attended  by  a  servant  carrying  a  samisen  wrapped  in  a 
purple  cloth. 


HOW    THE  JAPANESE    MAKE    CHINESE    INK.  103 

''That  is  geisha  O  Momo,  to  kodzukai"  (singing  girl  Miss 
Peach  and  her  servant)  said  Oto.  "  She  is  going  to  entertain  a 
party  in  one  of  the  great  restaurants  of  the  tea  gardens. 
Would  you  like  to  hear  her?  " 

"  Not  for  me,"  said  Fitz.  rf  Your  geisha  are  like  the  cherry 
trees,  very  beautiful  to  look  at,  but  they  have  no  other  charms 
for  us." 

"  Now  I  must  leave  you,"  said  Oto.  "  Next  time  we  go 
out  together,  I  will  take  you  to  see  how  our  people  make  fans. 
Saionara? 


104  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


CHAPTER  V. 
AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 

41  In  the  first  week  of  May  we  go  to   Kame-do  to  see  the  lovely  fuji  no  hana  (wis- 
taria blossoms). 
Later  on  we  visit  the  temple  of  Eko,  in  Matsu-zaka  cho,  to  witness  the  wrestling." 

"/~\H,  Sallie!  "  cried  Fitz,  one  morning  in  May,  "here's  a  let- 
\J  ter  from  our  friend,  the  most  honorable  and  learned 
Doctor  Oto  Nambo,  of  the  Imperial  Hospital,  announcing  that 
his  exalted  excellency  will  illuminate  us  with " 

"  Please  do  not  tease  me,"  pleaded  Sallie.  tf  What  does 
Oto  say?" 

"  He  informs  his  distinguished  foreign  friends,  meaning 
ourselves,  that  he  will  be  here  at  eight  o'clock,  sharp,  to 
accompany  us  upon  a  day's  sight-seeing.  Hurry  up,  Sallie 
Jewett,  let  us  have  breakfast  and  be  ready  to  start  when  he  ar- 
rives." 

Soon  after  the  meal  was  finished,  Oto  made  his  appearance, 
and  when  the  Jewetts  had  consulted  their  parents,  they  set 
out  with  him  for  a  good  long  walk. 

"  I  want  to  go  down  to  see  a  patient  near  the  Uyeno  pond," 
said  the  young  doctor.  "Do  you  mind  going  that  way, 
Sallie?" 

fr  Not  at  all,"  she  answered.  :r  We  have  the  whole  day  be- 
fore us." 

They  passed  out  through  the  lower  gate  of  the  yashiki 
and  descended  the  road  leading  around  the  artificial  sheet  of 
water,  from  whence  issued  the  constant  burring  and  chirping 
of  myriads  of  frogs. 


AT  A  FAX- MAKER'S. 


"What  are  those  paper  fish  for?"  asked  Johnnie,  pointing 
to  some  objects  fluttering  from  poles  erected  above  the  houses. 
"They  move  in  a  very  life-like  manner." 

'  Those  are  nobori  (paper  carp) .     Do  not  you  know  that 


this  is  Hatsu-nobori  (the  feast  of  flags)   and  everybody  who 
has  a  baby  boy  hoists  a  koi  in  his  honor." 

"Is  that  so?"  said  Fitz.      "This  week  I  have  noticed  thou- 


106  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

sands  of  them  flying  in  every  part  of  the  city.     Do  they  never 
put  them  up  for  girls  ?  " 

>f  They  are  symbols  of  vaulting  ambition  and  of  a  desire 
that  the  child  shall  make  a  noise  in  the  world,"  quietly  replied 
Oto.  rf  Therefore  they  are  not  hoisted  in  honor  of  young 
ladies." 

"  I  tell  you  they  will  be,  if  we  adopt  the  custom,"  said  Fitz. 
"  Some  of  our  girls  are  just  as  ambitious  to  be  seen  and  heard 
by  the  world  as  our  boys.  Why,  many  of  those  koi  (carp) 
are  twenty  feet  long.  I  think  it  would  be  splendid  fun  to  buy 
two  of  them  and  hoist  tllem  over  our  house." 

"  But  you  are  not  Japanese,"  said  Sallie. 

''  Your  brothers  are  almost  Nipponese,"  laughingly  ob- 
served Oto.  "  I  don't  see  why  Fitz  should  not  have  his  nobori. 
He  is  ready  to  surmount  any  difficulty  and  face  any  sort  of 
danger." 

:c  You  may  rest  assured  I  am  going  to  have  the  biggest  fish 
in  Tokio,"  said  Fitz.  fr  How  I  like  to  see  them  flutter  and 
wave  about  in  the  air.  Would  not  they  be  just  splendid  for 
the  boys  at  home  to  hoist  on  the  Fourth  of  July?" 

"What  is  that  man  peddling?"  asked  Sallie,  pointing  to  a 
person  who  was  offering  some  gaily  painted  toys  to  a  young 
lady. 

"He  is  a  ha- go-it a-uri  (battledore-seller).  Our  girls  are 
very  fond  of  playing  with  the  ha-go-ita.  They  either  use  a 
silk-covered  ball  or  a  shuttle  made  of  hard  wood  and  feathers." 

''  Why  does  the  girl  hold  her  sleeve  before  her  mouth?" 
inquired  Sallie. 

f  That  is  genteel,"  answered  Oto.  "  She  does  not  like  to 
appear  familiar  with  a  common  person,  so  she  covers  the  lower 
part  of  her  face  with  the  sleeve  of  her  kimono" 

f  Those  battledores  are  quite  pretty,  they  have  raised 
figures  on  them,"  remarked  Sallie. 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 


107 


Oto  purchased  one  of  the  toys  and  presented  it  to  her, 
saying,— 

"  Keep  this,  O  Sallie  Sama,  and,  when  you  go  home,  put  it 
up  in  your  room  to  remind  you  of  our  May-walk.  Do  you 


BATTLEDORE-SELLER. 


recollect,  when  I  was  in  New  England  we  went  out  to  gather 
May-flowers  ?  " 

r'Yes,  and  had  our  fingers  frost-bitten,"  said  Johnnie. 
?  You  were  the  only  one  of  the  party  who  did  not  grumble 
about  the  cold." 


108  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  It  is  no  use  quarrelling  with  the  weather,"  he  replied,  in  a 
gentle  voice.  "  After  all,  I  think  this  time  in  the  year,  the 
climate  of  Tokio  is  preferable  to  that  of  Cromlech." 


ROUND-FAN    SELLER. 


Oto  visited  his  patient  and  learned  from  him  the  address  of 
a  man  who  had  a  fan-factor}-  on  the  hill  above. 

They  ascended  to  the  place,  and  saw,  outside  the  house, 
a  lad  selling  uchiiva  (round  fans),  commonly  used  by  ladies. 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  109 

"  He  is  the  son  of  Tonosuke,  the  proprietor,"  said  Oto. 
"  Hear  him  talk  to  that  young  woman." 

"  My  father's  fans  are  the  finest  made  in  Tokio,"  said  the 
boy.  T  We  use  the  very  best  bamboo,  and  extra  qualities 
of  paste  and  paper,  and  employ  the  most  accomplished  artists. 
This  fan  will  not  only  be  exceedingly  useful  to  you,  but  will 
complete  your  costume,  as  its  colors  exactly  harmonize  with 
those  of  your  obi  "  (girdle). 

The  customer  simpered,  paid  him  for  the  article  and  re- 
tired, examining  her  purchase.  When  she  was  out  of  sight, 
the  boy  said  to  Oto,  — 

"  Honorable  doctor,  my  father  is  expecting  you.  Please 
go  into  the  shop  and  I  will  summon  him." 

They  put  off  their  shoes  and  did  as  he  requested;  seating 
themselves  in  a  neatly  matted  apartment  which  commanded  a 
view  of  two  streets. 

While  the  lad  was  gone  to  call  his  father,  the  visitors 
watched  a  uyekiya  (flower-seller)  who  had  set  up  his  stand  on 
the  side-walk. 

"  I  would  like  to  buy  that  young  maple-tree,"  said  Sallie. 
"  I  wTonder  whether  he  would  carry  it  to  the  Kaga  yashiki" 

When  Johnnie  asked  him,  the  man  paused  in  the  occupation 
of  sprinkling  his  stock  with  a  curious  bottle-shaped  watering- 
pot,  and  replied  in  a  shrill  falsetto, — 

:?Yes,  honorable  Sir,  I  will  carry  it  up  at  once.  Is  there 
anything  else  you  would  like?  " 

w  How  much  will  you  take  for  your  entire  collection?" 
demanded  Fitz. 

The  florist  looked  puzzled,  and  answered,  — 

:r  I  have  not  a  soroban  (counting-board)  with  me.  I  think 
I  can  let  you  have  all  these  plants  for  five  yen." 

"  I  will    give    you    four,"  said    Fitz,  handing  him    a    card, 


no 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF   TOKIO. 


inscribed  with  his  address  in  Japanese.     w  Carry  them  to  our 
home  and  wait  until  we  return." 

It  was  amusing  to  see  the  rapid  manner  in  which  the  uye- 
kiya  transferred    his    flowers    to    baskets    and    packed  up    his 


FLOWER-PEDDLER. 


portable  stand.  Within  two  minutes  he  had  shouldered 
the  load  and  was  out  of  sight. 

"What  does  that  picture  on  the  wall  represent?"  asked 
Sallie. 

"  That  is  a  very  good  painting  of  Kotoro-Kotoro"  (catch- 
ing the  child). 

"But  the  children  are  dressed  like  Chinese,"  said  the  girl. 

*  Yes,  that  game  came  from  China,"  answered  Oto.     "  Our 


112  THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

artists  always  paint  Chinese  children  engaged  in  that  amuse- 
ment. Old  and  young  Japanese  play  it  during  this  month  and 
the  next." 

"  Tell  us  about  it,"  urged  Fitz. 

"  It  is  a  very  simple  game,"  said  Oto.  "  One  boy  agrees  to 
be  father  and  the  other  to  be  an  oni  (demon).  The  rest 
of  the  children  form  a  line  by  grasping  the  back  of  each  other's 
obi  (girdles),  which  are  tied  very  tightly,  and  range  them- 
selves behind  the  father.  The  demon  does  his  best  to 
catch  the  last  of  the  row,  and  the  father  swings  his  family 
just  as  a  serpent  waves  its  body,  and,  whenever  the  oni 
rushes  at  the  last  boy  endeavors  to  intercept  the  demon  and 
forces  him  back.  Finally,  when  the  oni  touches  the  child,  he 
takes  the  place  in  the  line,  as  the  last  boy,  and  the  father 
becomes  the  demon." 

:?  We  call  that f  switch  the  whip,'"  said  Fitz.  "No  grown- 
up person  in  America  ever  indulges  in  such  sport." 

As  he  spoke,  Tonosuke,  who  was  an  old  man,  entered  the 
room,  and  bowing  to  Oto,  said, — 

:c  Honorable  doctor,  I  am  indeed  proud  to  see  you  and 
your  honorable  friends  from  afar. 

"  Have  you  used  the  plaster  I  gave  you  ? "  inquired  young 
Nambo. 

Tonosuke  looked  sheepishly  up  at  the  ceiling,  and  mur- 
mured, "Yes,  I  —  I  — have  used  it." 

"  Come,  tell  me,"  said  Oto,  "  what  do  you  mean  ?  " 

At  first  their  host  would  not  reply,  however,  he  presently 
said,  — 

"  My  family  have,  for  many  years,  owned  a  most  beautiful 
and  powerful  image  of  Fuku-roku-jin  and  his  attendant  the 
longevity-stork.  A  few  weeks  ago  this  god  began  to  split,  and 
the  fracture  gradually  extended  from  the  crown  of  his  venerable 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  113 

head  to  his  toes.     When  I  came  home  from  the    hospital,  I 
knelt  and  made  an  offering  to  him,  and,  as  I  did  so,  noticed 

that  he  was  growing  worse.     That  plaster " 

Then  he  paused  and  glanced  downward,  as  though  afraid  of 
confessing  what  he  had  done. 


IMAGE    OF   LONGEVITY   GOD,    AND   HIS   ATTENDANT,    THE   STORK. 

w  Go  on,"  said  Oto,  kindly.  *  You  put  it  on  your  back  as 
I  instructed  you?  " 

"No,  most  honorable  doctor,"  murmured  the  man;  "I  did 
not,  —  I  put  it  on  the  god.  Would  you  believe  it,  in  two 
days  the  fissure  healed,  and  now  the  amiable  deity  is  as  sound 
as  he  was  the  day  he  had  his  eyes  opened." 

This  speech  proved  too  much  for  Fitz,  who  snickered  so 
audibly  that  the  fan-maker  said,  — 

"  Honorable  Sir,  you  may  feel  inclined  to  laugh,  but  indeed 
I  am  not  telling  you  a  foolish  thing.  I  am  very  proud  to 


114  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

testify  to  the  virtues  of  the  learned  Dr.  Nambo's  honorable 
plaster." 

The  merry  boy  walked  to  the  front  of  the  apartment,  and, 
leaning  his  head  against  one  of  the  posts  supporting  the 
roof,  laughed  until  the  tears  trickled  down  his  cheeks. 

While  he  was  thus  employed,  Sallie  said  to  the  fan- 
maker,  "  You  must  please  excuse  my  brother,  he  is  very  young.'' 

Tonosuke  nodded,  and  answered  in  a  soft,  dreamy  manner, 
as  though  thinking  aloud, — 

T  Yes,  yes,  he  is  very  young.  I  thank  the  benevolent 
Fuku-roku-jin  that  I  have  an  honorable  mother  who  taught  me 
to  respect  him  and  all  the  gods."  Then,  turning  to  his  visitors, 
he  added,  "  Now  will  you  please  come  this  way?" 

fr  My  goodness!"  said  Fitz,  wiping  his  eyes  and  mastering 
his  merriment  with  a  great  effort.  rrThis  old  fellow  will  kill 
me.  Oto,  next  winter  we  will  send  for  some  of  your  honorable 
plasters,  to  use  as  weather-strips  on  our  windows.  They 
would  be  fine  things  to  take  home  and  keep  until  the  cold 

weather,  when  the  water-pipes  burst, save  plumbers' 

bills." 

"Oh,  Fitz!  do  stop,"  pleaded  his  sister,  glancing  at  their 
amused  friend.  ;?  You  must  not  mind  him,  Oto." 

They  followed  Tonosuke  into  a  building  on  the  floor  of  which 
were  squatted  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  boys  and  girls,  act- 
ively employed  in  sawing,  splitting,  and  boring  bamboos  for 
fan-frames. 

f  These  are  to  make  uchiTva"  (round  fans),  said  the  pro- 
prietor. :c  They  have  been  manufactured  in  Japan  for  over 
a  thousand  years."  Calling  a  sawyer  to  him:  "  Show  my 
foreign  visitors  how  quickly  you  can  cut  a  bamboo  into 
lengths." 

The  workman  took  a  long  rod,  squatted  on  the  ground,  and 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 

proceeded  to  use  a  small  saw  with  such  vigor,  that,  in  less 
than  a  minute,  he  had  divided  the  bamboo  into  a  dozen  sticks, 
each  of  which  had  a  joint  in  the  middle. 


CHARMING   ANTS. 


Tonosuke  then  motioned  another  workman  to  him,  and 
said,  "Show  my  honorable  visitors  how  rapidly  you  can  split 
this." 


Il6  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  Show  my  honorable  visitors  how  rapidly  you  can  split 
this." 

The  man  bowed,  squatted  before  them,  took  one  of  the 
sticks  in  his  left  hand,  and  grasping  a  chopping-knife  in  his 
right,  drove  it  into  the  upper  end  of  the  section  of  bamboo, 
splitting  it  as  far  as  the  joint,  he  then  worked  the  stick  round 
in  his  hand,  as  he  did  so  repeating  his  cuts  until  it  was  severed 
into  a  bunch  of  splints. 

Another  artizan  seized  the  fan-stick,  and,  drilling  a  hole 
just  below  the  point,  inserted  a  piece  of  bamboo,  shaped  like  a 
bow,  tapering  at  both  ends. 

"  Now,"  said  their  host,  "  please  come  with  me  into  the 
next  apartment." 

As  the  visitors  passed  through  a  little  covered  veranda,  they 
saw  Tonosuke's  wife  fixing  a  piece  of  paper  to  one  of  the  posts, 
while  his  son  was  shouting  to  some  ants  that  were  crawling 
along  the  board. 

'f  What  are  you  doing?  "  inquired  Sallie,  "  and  why  is  your 
boy  so  excited?  " 

"I  am  putting  up  this  are  yoke"  (ant-charm),  she  quietly 
replied,  smiling  as  she  spoke. 

"Ant-charm!  "  ejaculated  Fitz,  advancing  and  reading  the 
inscription  on  the  paper:  ^  *  Ichi uin  maye^jiu  roku  mon '  (from 
each  traveller  sixteen  cash).  What  does  that  do  to  the 
ants  ?  " 

The  woman  simpered,  and  her  son  bashfully  hid  himself 
behind  a  flower-pot;  so  the  fan-maker  came  to  their  assistance 
and  said,  "  Everybody  knows  the  ant  is  a  hard-working,  thrifty 
insect  that  dislikes  to  put  out  its  money.  That  demand  for  a 
toll  of  sixteen  cash  prevents  them  from  going  any  further." 

"How  do  the  ants  know  what  it  means?  They  cannot 
read,"  bluntly  demanded  the  irrepressible. 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  j  1 7 

Tonosuke  scratched  his  ear  and  rubbed  his  forehead,  then 
sucked  in  his  breath  and  replied: 

"  I  never  thought  of  that.  This  is  the  way  to  the  place 
where  we  cover  the  fan-frames." 

As  they  followed  him,  he  said,  in  a  comical  aside: 

"Oh,  dear!  what  dreadful  hard  questions  that  O  bos-an 
asks  me,  I  wonder  whether  all  Americans  are  like  him." 

He  pushed  back  a  sliding  door  and  ushered  his  guests  into 
a  workshop,  much  like  the  first,  in  which  men  and  women  of 
all  ages  were  squatted  behind  heavy  blocks  of  wood,  that 
served  as  benches. 

rr  This  is  our  finishing  department,"  politely  remarked  Ton- 
osuke. rf  I  will  myself  show  you  how  to  put  the  paper  on  a 
fan-frame." 

He  motioned  one  of  the  women  to  quit  her  work-bench, 
then  squatted  behind  it,  took  a  prepared  bamboo  stick,  and 
once  more  bowing,  said: 

"  Honorable  visitors,  you  will  observe  that  the  upper  part 
of  this  is  cut  into  fine  splints,  and  that  below  the  joint  is  insert- 
ed a  bamboo  bow.  I  press  the  ribs  on  to  this  block,  and  you 
see  they  are  spread  out  flat  like  your  extended  fingers.  I  next 
take  a  paper  string  and  after  fastening  it  to  one  end  of  the  bow, 
thread  it  in  and  out  of  the  splints  and  secure  it  on  the  other 
end.  That  done  I  place  this  colored  fan-paper  upon  the  block, 
paste  it  and  both  sides  of  the  ribs,  above  the  thread,  and  lay 
the  frame  upon  the  paper-covering  on  the  block.  I  now  take 
another  paper,"  (suiting  the  action  to  the  word,)  "  put  it  on 
the  back  of  the  fan,  rub  it  vigorously  with  my  hand,  seize  these 
scissors,  trim  the  article  into  the  proper  shape,  and  run  a  thin 
strip  of  colored  paper  all  round  the  cut  edges,  to  finish  it.  I 
next  put  the  uchiiva  on  a  frame  and  allow  it  to  dry.  In  five 
minutes  it  will  be  fit  for  the  honorable  Ojo-sama  to  use." 


Il8  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  Jewetts  watched  his  actions  and  saw  the  fan  develop 
under  his  nimble  fingers;  the  operation  interesting  them 
greatly. 

"  How  sour  that  paste  smells,"  said  Johnnie. 

"  It  is  made  of  thick  mucilage,  prepared  from  a  fern-root 
and  the  juice  of  unripe  persimmons,  it  is  called  shibu.  The 
perfume  is  quite  delicious  to  what  it  will  be  later  on;  you 
should  smell  shibu  in  the  summer  time." 

"  No,  thank  you,"  quietly  answered  the  boy.  "  It's  sour 
enough  for  me  now." 

"How  much  do  you  charge  for  your  fans?"  inquired 
Sallie. 

"  From  one  to  five  sen  each,  by  the  quantity,"  answered  the 
proprietor.  "  Those  that  have  colored  wood-cuts  on  one  side 
only,  are  the  cheapest;  next  to  them  come  fans  on  which  the 
designs  are  painted,  while  the  most  expensive  are  decorated 
with  scraps  of  paintings  by  great  masters,  or  verses  written  by 
celebrated  poets." 

He  took  the  fan  he  had  made  for  Sallie  from  the  rack,  and 
after  ascertaining  if  it  were  perfectly  dry,  bowed  and  handed 
the  uchiiva  to  her,  saying: 

^ Hai-yaku-hai!  "  (A  hundred  knocks.)  "Please  con- 
descend to  accept  this  humble  gift." 

The  girl  thanked  him,  then  inquired,  "Will  you  kindly  tell 
me  what  this  picture  on  my  fan  represents  ?  " 

"That  man  is  a  Korean  tortoise-tamer,"  he  answered,  "this 
painting  is  a  copy  of  a  very  old  one.  We  have  men  who  can 
make  those  curious  creatures  do  anything." 

"  I  shall  treasure  this  very  much,"  said  Sallie.  "  Do  you 
make  ogi  (folding  fans)  ?" 

''Those  you  will  find  over  towards  Kameido,"  he  said. 
;f  We,  who  manufacture  the  uchiiua,  confine  ourselves  to  that 
stvle  of  fan." 


AT    A    FAN-MAKER  S. 


IJ9 


"  Who  manufactures  the  cheap  articles  we  get  in  America?" 
asked  Johnnie. 

"Those  are  made  in  prisons,  by  the  convicts,"  replied 
Tonosuke.  "  That  business  is  very  bad  for  us,  the  goods  being 
exceedingly  coarse  and  clumsily  put  together.  The  foreign 


KOREAN   TORTOISE-TAMER. 


dealers  buy  common  ware  and  fans  that  have  been  left  over 
from  the  year  before." 

"  I  thought  so!  "  exclaimed  Sallie.  fr  Very  few  of  our  low- 
priced  fans  are  artistic  in  shape  and  decoration  like  those  we  see 
here.  I  think  it  is  a  shame!  Those  cheap  uchiwa  have  given 
your  people  a  reputation  for  making  very  mean  things." 

The  visitors  thanked  him  for  his  kindness,  and  bade  him 


I2O 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


good-by,  and  quitting  the  house,  proceeded  in  the  direction  of 
Kameido. 

About  half-way  down    the    hill    they  paused  to  watch  an 


COOPERS. 


oke-ya  (cooper)  finishing  a  vat.  The  staves  had  beeh  put 
together,  and  the  man  was  driving  on  some  massive  hoops  of 
woven  bamboo,  which  his  mother,  who  was  seated  on  a  piece 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  121 

of  matting,  made  for  him  as  fast  as  he  required  them.  He  was 
a  muscular  little  fellow,  and  wielded  a  stout  wooden  beetle 
with  marvellous  dexterity,  never  once  missing  the  iron  driver 
or  lessening  the  force  of  his  blows. 

"Merciful  Kuwannon!  "  exclaimed  the  old  lady,  eyeing  the 
Jewetts  with  wonder.  :?  What  strange  beings !  Why,  the  girl 
wears  a  head-covering  just  like  the  boys!  " 

'That  is  one  for  your  new  Derby,  Sal  lie,"  whispered  Fitz, 
in  English.  "  Say  something  complimentary,  and  astonish 
her." 

"Honorable  mother,  how  old  are  you?  "asked  the  girl, 
making  a  Japanese  polite  inquiry. 

The  dame  gaped  with  amazement,  and  dropping  the  knife 
and  the  piece  of  bamboo  she  had  in  her  hand  said, — 

"  Many  pardons  for  an  unintentional  offence.  Honorable 
lady,  I  hope  you  will  forgive  my  impertinence." 

Sallie  assured  her  that  she  was  not  angry,  and  was  turning 
to  quit  the  place,  when  they  heard  the  shrill  cries  of  children 
and  saw  a  man,  armed  with  a  big  sword,  marching  round  the 
corner. 

"  Kari-iv asa  !  "  (sword  juggler)  shouted  the  urchins. 

The  stroller's  assistant  elbowed  his  way  through  the  crowd, 
and  setting  two  sambo  of  white  wood  upon  the  ground,  made 
the  following  speech: 

"  Honorable  patrons,  and  noblemen  from  afar,  —  you  are 
about  to  behold  a  most  wonderful  sight.  All  we  require  is 
the  insignificant  sum  of  five  tempo.  What  is  such  a  price  for 
a  performance  like  the  one  my  master  can  give,  —  a  mere  pit- 
tance !  —  a  breath  of  air!  " 

After  delivering  a  long  speech,  in  which  he  described  his 
employer  as  the  greatest  acrobat  in  the  world,  he  opened  his 
fan,  and,  advancing  to  the  strangers,  requested  a  fee.  The 


122  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

Jewetts  responded  liberally,  whereupon  the  sword-juggler 
placed  the  small  sambo  on  the  larger  one  and  mounting  the 
latter,  cried: 


SWORD-JUGGLER. 


tf  Now  I  will  draw  my  weapon!  " 

*Yah!"  screamed  his  man,  crouching  on  the  ground  in   a 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  123 

respectful  attitude,  and  waving  his  fan  admiringly:  "Yah! 
you  speak  right,  my  master." 

"  Behold,"  said  the  juggler,  pointing  his  fan  at  his  servant, 
"a  miserable  wretch  who  thinks  of  nothing  but  drinking  sake. 
Rather  than  be  any  longer  burdened  with  the  support  of  such 
a  creature,  I  will  swallow  my  sword." 

The  assistant,  who  listened  attentively,  uttered  a  series  of 
barbaric  cries,  which  Oto  said  were  intended  as  applause. 

The  Kari-ivasa  drew  his  sword  from  its  sheath,  raised 
it  aloft,  and  taking  it  in  a  cloth,  in  his  right  hand,  proceeded  to 
thrust  the  naked  weapon  down  his  throat. 

"Oh!  poor  fellow,  it  will  hurt  him,"  murmured  Sallie. 

"  Do  not  worry,  sissy,"  said  Fitz.  "  He  does  not  really 
swallow  the  sword.  I  can  do  that  trick." 

The  servant  gave  a  shriek,  and,  advancing  to  his  master, 
loosened  the  latter's  girdle,  and,  applying  his  hand  beneath  the 
sword-swallo\ver's  ribs,  shouted,  — 

:'  Wonderful !  Here  is  the  point  of  the  weapon.  Will  not 
you,  honorable  foreign  gentlemen,  come  and  satisfy  yourselves 
that  there  is  no  deception." 

When  the  juggler  began  to  draw  the  blade  from  his  throat, 
Sallie  closed  her  eyes  and  whispered, — 

"  Do  come  away,  boys,  I  cannot  witness  any  more  of  this 
performance.  Come  away." 

"  All  right,"  said  Johnnie.  r?  We  do  not  wish  to  annoy  you, 
sister." 

"Oh!  do  stay,  Sallie,"  said  Fitz,  in  a  jocular  tone.  ''You 
have  not  seen  half  the  fun  yet.  He  will  commit  hara-kiri 
presently." 

The  young  lady  walked  on  with  Johnnie  and  Oto,  leaving 
Fitz  to  follow  at  his  leisure.  After  going  a  few  yards  they  saw 
a  kin-gi-yo-ya  (gold-fish  dealer)  peddling  his  beautiful  speci- 
mens near  the  gateway  of  a  temple. 


124 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


A  nurse-girl  and  child  were  making  purchases  of  him,  and 
he  remarked,  as  he  dipped  out  some  fish  from  a  bowl,  — 

"  Master-boy,  you  are  very  fortunate  to  possess  such 
delightful  things  as  these.  Now,  do  you  not  want  a  tortoise 
to  ensure  you  long  life?" 

The  child  took  the  bowl  and  looked  up  at  his  nurse,  while 


DEALER    IN    GOLD-FISH. 


the  man  turned  to  the  reptiles  that  were  suspended  from  the 
handle  of  a  large  wooden  bucket,  and  said,  — 

"Wag  your  tails,  if  you  please,  honorable  creatures.  Don't 
you  hear  me  talking  to  this  beautiful  young  lady  and  the  mas- 
ter-boy ?  " 

"On  what  do  those  ICame  live?  "  inquired  Sallie. 

"  On  air  and  water,"  was  the  sage  reply.  r<:  Honorable  Ojo 
Sama,  if  you  desire  to  attain  long  life,  you  must  buy  one  of  my 
tortoises." 


AT    A    FANMVf  AKER  S. 


125 


"Hullo!"  said  Fitz,  who  had  just  then  approached. 
"What  have  you  met  with,  Sallie?  Tortoises.  I  must  have 
some  of  those.  How  much  are  they  each?" 

The  man  thought  for  a  moment,  then  bowed  and  said,  "Any- 
thing your  honorable  excellency  wishes  to  give  me." 

"  I  am  not  buying  Kame  that  way,  to-day,"  said  the  merry 
boy.  "  Carry  your  stock  to  number  one  hundred  Kaga  Yashi- 
ki,  and  wait  till  I  return.  I'll  take  all  you  have  at  five  sen 
each." 

"All  I  have?"  echoed  the  kin-ge-yo-ya.  "All  —  I  — 
have." 

r  Yes,"  said  Fitz,  "  I  am  going  to  train  some  of  them  to 
perform." 

"  Come  along,"  said  Sallie.  "  Oto  tells  me  there  is  a 
curiosity  shop  not  far  from  here,  and  that  the  proprietor  has  a 
very  ancient  vase  for  sale." 

"  I  think  tortoises  are  much  more  interesting  than  old 
vases,"  growled  her  brother. 

"How  can  you  say  such  a  thing,  Fitz  Jewett!"  said  Sal- 
lie.  "  Some  of  the  pieces  of  pottery  I  have  purchased  are  quite 
too  precious." 

The  boy  snickered  and  said,  "You  just  wait,  Sallie.  See 
if  you  won't  be  too  precious  sorry  you  did  not  spend  your  money 
on  kompeito  "  (candies) . 

They  found  the  store,  which  was  full  of  curious  things. 
The  proprietor,  at  the  request  of  Oto,  produced  the  old  vase : 
a  coarse  piece  of  pottery,  very  roughly  decorated. 

"This,"  he  said,  bowing  and  sucking  in  his  breath,  "is  two 
thousand  five  hundred  and  twenty  years  old." 

"It  is  beautiful,"  said  Sallie.  "What  a  glorious  color!  and 
how  perfect  the  form  is!  How  much  do  you  ask  for  it?  " 

The  man  bowed,  sucked  in  his  breath  and  hesitated,  finally 
murmuring,  "Five  hundred  yen  "  (dollars). 


126 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"I  wish  I  had  the  money,"  said  Sallie,  with  a  sigh.  "I  do 
admire  this  antique  ware  so  much." 

"  I  prefer  fine  Satsuma  or  Hizen,"  remarked  Johnnie.  M I 
always  feel  suspicious  about  these  two-thousand-year-old 
pieces." 

The  girl  reluctantly  handed  back  the  vase  to   the  dealer, 

saying,  "  I  cannot  afford  to 
buy  it.  It  is  very  fine,  but  is 
beyond  my  means." 

"  I  will  give  you  five  dol- 
lars for  it,"  said  Fitz. 

"  No,  it  is  worth  all  I  ask," 
returned  the  tradesman.  "I 
shall  sell  it  soon." 

As  they  quitted  the  store, 
Sallie  said,  "Oh,  dear!  I 
would  so  like  to  have  that 
piece  of  pottery." 

ANCIENT   JAPANESE    VASE. 

"  Don't  you  worry,  said 

Fitz,  in  a  consoling  tone.  "  I  will  make  you  one  just  as  good. 
There  is  plenty  of  clay  in  the  yashiki,  and  I'll  fashion  you  a 
dai  ichi-ban  (first-class)  ancient  piece." 

"  Here  we  are  at  the  ogi  sei-zo  shio  (folding  fan)  manufac- 
turer's," said  Oto. 

"  Want  to  buy  a  fan  ?  "  said  a  youngster,  who  was  seated  on 
the  sidewalk.  "  I  have  them  of  all  prices;  they  are  made  by 
my  Uncle  Kimura  and  are  composed  of  the  very  best  mate- 
rials." 

"  Is  your  relative  at  home  ?  "  asked  Oto. 

"Yes,  honorable  sir,"  answered  the  boy;  "he  superintends 
everything  connected  with  his  establishment  and  never  goes 
out." 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 


127 


They  left  him  offering  his  wares  to  a  tall  Japanese  girl,  who 
was  mounted  on  clogs  that  had  soles  three  inches  in  thickness. 


SELLER   OF   FOLDING-FANS. 


Mr.  Kimura  received  them  very  politely,  and  led  the  way 
into  a  private  room  that  overlooked  a  miniature  garden. 

"  I  had  this  scene  made  to  delight  my  honorable  mother," 
said  their  host,  offering  them  tea.  t?  Some  of  the  dwarf  trees 


128  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

are  very  old,  and  cost  quite  a  large  sum.  Is  it  not  calm  and 
beautiful?" 

"Delightful,"  replied  Sallie.  "I  think  it  is  the  prettiest  I 
have  ever  seen;  the  rustic  bridge  is  quite  too  charming." 

After  his  guests  had  refreshed  themselves,  he  begged  they 
would  follow  him,  and,  pushing  back  a  door,  led  the  way  into 
the  manufactory. 

The  building  very  much  resembled  the  one  occupied  by  the 
makers  of  round  fans,  and  the  people  worked  in  the  same  man- 
ner, that  is,  squatted  on  the  floor  behind  low  benches  of  wood. 

t?  We  do  not  split  the  bamboo  for  our  fan-ribs,"  said  Kimura, 
taking  up  a  bundle  of  the  articles;  "they  are  cut  for  us  by 
people  who  make  a  special  business  of  it.  You  will  also  notice 
there  is  a  hole  drilled  in  the  rounded  end  of  each  stick.  Hav- 
ing determined  upon  the  size  of  our  fan,  we  proceed  to  work." 
(Illustrating  his  speech  as  he  spoke.)  "If  the  O-josan  is  agree- 
able, I  will  make  her  an  ogi  containing  twenty-four  ribs." 

"Thank  you,"  said  Sallie,  with  a  smile.  :f  We  shall  be 
delighted  to  watch  you,  and  I  will  keep  the  fan  as  a  souvenir." 

Kimura  took  two  flat  sticks  of  polished  bamboo  and  twenty- 
four  ribs,  which  he  placed  between  the  outer  pieces,  then  bade 
a  workman  rivet  them  together. 

The  latter  pushed  a  small  piece  of  brass  tubing  through  the 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  fan-frame,  laid  it  on  a  stone  anvil, 
placed  a  ring  of  wire  on  each  end  of  the  tube,  and  tapped  it 
with  a  hammer  until  the  metal  on  both  sides  overlapped  the 
washers;  thus  forming  a  very  neat,  hollow  rivet,  through  which 
a  silken  cord  could  be  passed.  The  host  received  the  frame 
from  the  man,  and  squatting  behind  one  of  the  benches,  said  to 
his  visitors: 

"  On  my  right  I  have  a  pile  of  fan  papers  cut  to  the  exact 
size  of  the  ogi  I  am  going  to  make.  I  put  one  of  them  face 


130  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

downward  upon  this  work-bench,  take  a  brush  moistened  with 
shibu  and  paste  the  paper,  then  pass  the  brush  over  both  sides 
of  the  thin  ribs  forming  the  frame,  touching  the  polished  outer 
bars  on  their  inner  surface  only.  I  now  spread  out  the  frame 
and  lay  it  on  the  wet  paper,  then  take  a  second  paper  and  place 
it  on  the  back  of  the  fan,  that  done,  I  rub  it  smooth  with  my 
fingers.  You  will  observe,  while  I  do  this,  I  keep  the  outer 
bars  in  my  hand.  I  now  fold  the  fan,  press  it  tightly  so  as  to 
make  the  edges  of  the  paper  adhere  to  the  inner  surface  of  the 
polished  sticks,  then  slip  on  a  band  to  keep  the  article  in  shape." 

w  How  long  are  the  ogi  drying?  "  asked  Johnnie. 

"  It  all  depends  upon  the  weather,''  said  the  manufacturer. 
"  In  summer  the  moisture  of  the  paste  rapidly  evaporates,  in  win- 
ter it  is  sometimes  two  days  before  the  fans  are  ready  for 
packing." 

"What  are  those  blank  ogi  for?"  inquired  Sallie. 

T  To  write  poems  on  and  to  paint,"  replied  the  man.  "  There 
are  thousands  of  amateur  artists  who  employ  their  leisure  time 
in  decorating  fans  for  their  friends,  such  articles  forming  a  very 
important  branch  of  our  business." 

"  How  many  kinds  of  fans  do  you  make?"  asked  Sallie. 

"Nearly  one  hundred,"  he  answered.  "We  have  ogi  for 
common  use,  for  marriages,  funerals,  various  religious  cere- 
monies, and  for  hot  and  cool  weather." 

"What  scene  is  this?"  demanded  Johnnie,  taking  up  a  fan 
and  critically  examining  the  picture.  "  This  is  quite  a  pretty 
view  and  is  in  admirable  perspective." 

rr  That  is  Tono-sawa  on  sen  (the  hot  spring  of  Tono-sawa, 
Hakone) .  Many  people  go  there  to  drink  the  waters  and  admire 
the  scenery.  What  do  you  mean  by  saying  it  has  perspective? 
Our  artists  perfectly  understand  how  to  depict  distant  objects  as 
they  appear  to  us  in  nature." 


AT    A    FAN-MAKER  S. 

:f  Yes,  in  some  cases,"  replied  Johnnie.  "  When  you  copy 
the  Chinese  style  you  do  not,  but  when  you  follow  your  own 
promptings  you  do.  I  think  you  are  a  much  more  artistic  peo- 
ple than  the  Chinese." 

Kimura  bowed,  sucked  in  his  breath,  and  said, — 
T  You  make  my  bosom  swell  with  pride.  In  the  great 
period,  the  Chinese  were  our  masters,  now  our  artists  are 
learning  to  paint  in  foreign  fashion  and  have  no  style  at  all " 
(sighing).  "A  poor  imitation  is  more  unsatisfactory  than 
a  crude  original." 


HOT   SPRING,   TONO-SAWA,    HAKONE. 

"Whydo  you  make  those  very  large  fans?"  demanded 
Fitz,  pointing  to  a  gigantic  specimen  fastened  against  the  wall 
of  the  room. 

"  That  is  an  advertisement,"  said  the  man.  "  No  one  was 
ever  big  enough  to  use  such  a  fan." 

;?  You  don't  tell  me,"  said  Fitz.  rrYou  cannot  make  things 
too  big  for  some  of  our  people." 

"  Indeed,  you  are  mistaken,"  murmured  Kimura.  "  I  once 
received  an  order  from  an  American  merchant  in  Yokohama, 
for  one  hundred  dozen  of  my  largest  fans,  for  the  San  Fran- 
cisco market.  I  was  overjoyed,  and  gave  a  little  dinner  to  my 
workmen,  who,  as  they  drank  my  sake,  prophesied  that  I  was 


132  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

going  to  make  my  fortune  in  a  short  time."  {Sighing  deeply^] 
"Alas!  the  contract  nearly  ruined  me.  On  sending  the  goods 
to  Yokohama  for  shipment,  I  received  a  letter  from  the  agent, 
and  had  all  the  cases  returned  with  charges.  He  said,  in  his 
communication,  — ?  The  fan-maker  Kimura  must  be  losing  his 
senses.  When  I  ordered  the  largest  fans  I  did  not  mean  corn- 
winnowers;  although  everything  in  California  is  on  a  grand 
scale,  the  ladies  are  not  ten  feet  high.  You  may  keep  your  big 
ogi;  they  are  useless  to  my  customers.'  (  Once  more  sighing^) 
"Alas!  I  dared  not  look  my  creditors  in  the  face!  The  paper- 
merchant  heard  of  my  trouble  and  sued  me;  the  dealer  in 
bamboos  brought  his  bed  and  laid  it  in  front  of  my  door  and 
would  not  stir  until  he  had  seen  me;  the  shibu  manufacturer 
haunted  me  da}'  and  night,  and  sent  his  old  mother  to  groan, 
weep,  and  present  his  bill.  Oh,  it  was  terrible!  Nobody  but 
my  employees  condoled  with  me,  —  they  had  all  received  their 
pay,  so  could  afford  to  express  their  pity.  At  last,  I  heard  of  a 
sea-captain  who  was  in  Yokohama  looking  for  bargains,  and  to 
him  I  went.  I  showed  him  a  sample,  quoted  the  goods  at 
a  very  small  profit  and  sold  him  the  lot.  He  gave  me  a  paper 
promising  to  pay  in  seven  days.  When  the  time  expired, 
he  was  far,  far  away,  and  I  never  got  a  rin  (mill)  for  all  my 
expenditure." 

He  paused,  glanced  sadly  at  his  work-people,  and  said  to 
Fitz, "  Do  you  know  any  of  your  honorable  sea-captains  likely  to 
do  such  a  thing?  " 

"Yes,  old  Captain  Bullyman  down  to  Cromlech,"  was  the 
ready  response.  "  He  is  mean  enough  for  anything,  and  has 
been  in  Japan." 

r?  If  you  will  make  him  pay  me  that  money,"  said  Kimura, 
in  a  childlike  manner,  "  I  will  sell  you  a  lot  of  fans  very 
cheap." 


AT    A    FAN-MAKER  S. 


T33 


Fitz  looked  at  Sallie,  and  in  spite  of  her  frowning,  said,  "  I 
do  not  think  I  can  take  that  contract.  Captain  Bullyman 
has  never  been  known  to  pay  any  one.  When  his  creditors 
worry  him,  he  blazes  away  at  them  with  a  shot-gun,  and  pre- 
tends to  be  killing  cats." 

The  bewildered  fan-maker  regarded  him  for  several  seconds, 
then  said,  w  Has  he  not  been  executed  ?  " 

ft  No,  he  is  one  of  the  selectmen  and  is  on  the  school-com- 
mittee," returned  the  unabashed 
boy.     "  I  think  you  had  better 
give  up  all   idea    of  collecting 
that  amount." 

"  Please  do  not  joke  so, 
Fitz,"  said  his  sister.  "  Mr. 
Kimura  does  not  understand 
you." 

"  Pardon  me,  O-josan,  I 
comprehend,"  returned  their 
host.  "  Still  I  am  puzzled  at 
your  American  ways.  What  a  THE  CLAM'S  BREATH,  POPULAR  JAPANESE 

IDEA  OF  THE  CAUSES  OF  A  MIRAGE. 

strange  country  yours  must  be, 

when  you  shoot  people  who  respectfully  ask  payment  of  their 

accounts." 

"  Americans  do  not,"  said  the  indignant  young  lady,  taking 
up  a  fan  and  opening  it.  :?  Will  you  please  tell  me  the  mean- 
ing of  this  picture?" 

Kimura  smiled,  and,  bowing,  replied, — "The  natives  of 
every  land  have  their  fancies.  You  will  notice  that  painting 
represents  a  clam  giving  out  a  sort  of  vapor,  in  which  the 
towers  of  a  palace  and  the  tops  of  the  buildings  surrounding  it, 
are  depicted  as  we  see  them  in  a  fog.  That  is  called  shin- 
kiro,  (visions  of  the  palace  of  the  god  of  the  bottom  of  the  sea) . 


134  THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

When  walking  upon  the  shore,  have  you  ever  noticed  the  ships 
•in  the  distance  appear  to  be  double  or  upside  down?  That  is 
caused  by  the  breath  of  the  clam." 

"Jemmy!  "  ejaculated  Fitz.  "  I  know  what  a  clam-bake  is, 
but  have  never  before  heard  of  a  clam-mirage." 

"  Oh,  indeed,  I  am  correct  in  what  I  assert,"  gravely 
answered  their  host.  "The  clam  sends  up  a  thick  vapor, 
when  it  breathes,  and  the  ships  are  reflected  on  hVjust  as  they 
would  be  in  a  looking  glass." 

"Have  you  ever  heard  of  the  whistling^tfyster?"  demanded 
the  mischievous  boy. 

"What  do  you  mean ?"^saicT Kimura.  "The  wind  Kuchi 
buye fuita  (whistles^out  I  have  never  heard  of  an  oyster 
doing  such  a  thing." 

"  Can  you  do  this?"  demanded  Fitz,  whistling  the  first  few 
bars  of  Yankee  Doodle. 

K  No  Japanese  ever  makes  that  extraordinary  noise,"  was 
the  grave  response.  "  I  have  noticed  honorable  foreigners  do 
it,  but  always  thought  they  were  out  of  their  minds.  I  assure 
you  I  am  right  about  the  shin-kiro  (clam-mirage).  It  can  be 
seen  at  any  place  where  the  fish  are  plentiful." 

"  If  you  please,  Sir,  will  you  continue  your  explanation  of 
fan-making,"  said  Sallie.  "We  have  been  exceedingly  inter- 
ested in  all  you  have  shown  us." 

Kimura  took  them  into  a  number  of  rooms,  where  fans 
were  drying  upon  racks. 

"  We  open  and  close  the  ogi  many  times,  in  order  to  render 
them  supple,"  he  said,  exhibiting  the  fan  he  had  made  for  Sal- 
lie.  "  Honorable  young  lady,  will  you  condescend  to  accept 
this  miserable  gift?" 

The  girl  thanked  him  and  gave  Johnnie  her  present  to 
carry. 


WAYSIDE   TEA-HOUSE. 


136  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

Kimura  invited  them  to  follow  him,  and  led  the  way  into  a 
little  room  overlooking  the  river. 

A  servant  entered  with  refreshments,  and  when  the  visitors 
had  partaken  of  tea  and  cakes,  their  host  pointing  toward  the 
scene  beyond,  said, — 

"  Is  not  that  view  lovely.  The  bamboo  screen  of  the  yasume- 
chaya  (wayside  tea-house)  opposite,  forms  a  frame  on  one  side 
and  the  dwellings  on  the  bank  of  the  river  fill  the  other.  I  sit 
here  for  hours  and  watch  the  junks  going  up  and  down  the 
stream.  In  all  the  world  there  is  not  such  another  scene." 

While  the  man  was  speaking,  Fitz  sniffed  suspiciously, 
noticing  which,  Kimura  said,  "  Honorable  O  bos-an,  what 
annoys  you  ?  " 

rf  Do  you  not  smell  the  water?" 

;<>Yes,  it  is  very  excellent  to-day,"  replied  Kimura. 
"  Sometimes  it  is  not  as  good  as  at  others.  In  spring  it  smells 
like  the  rice  being  planted,  —  in  summer  it  is  delicious,  —  in 
autumn  very  rich  and  fragrant,  —  and  in  the  winter,  the  odor 
comes  stealing  up  like  a  child  begging  to  be  taken  into  the 
house.  I  have  written  a  poem  about  that  water." 

"  I  should  write  to  the  River  Commissioners  about  it,"  said 
the  unabashed  boy.  r?  Why,  there  is  cholera,  small-pox,  dip- 
theria,  scarlet-fever,  and  a  thousand  diseases  in  that  odor." 

The  fan-maker  regarded  him  with  amazement,  and  replied, — 

:'  Every  one  has  his  belief.  You  think  those  diseases 
emanate  from  the  beautiful  river.  We  know  better,  they  are 
all  the  vengeance  of  gods.  If  you  insult  the  cholera-god,  he 
will  certainly  wreak  his  displeasure  upon  you,  and  so  will  the 
others.  See,'1  pulling  back  a  screen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
room,  "  I  have  another  lovely  view  here." 

The  young  folks  turned  and  beheld  a  sake  shop,  the 
proprietor  of  which  was  busily  employed  testing  a  new 
delivery  of  the  wine. 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 


137 


"Ah!  "  said  Kimura.  "A  saki-ya  (wine-shop)  is  to  me  a 
beautiful  object.  That  man  is  a  very  intimate  friend  of  mine, 
his  name  is  Wobanaba.  He  is  known  all  over  Tokio  for  his 
famous  sake." 

P?  What  is  he  doing  to  that  tub?  "  inquired  Johnnie. 

"That  is  a  fresh 
lot  of  Tedo-ichi  (A 
No.  i  Yedo).  You  will 
observe  the  auger  on 
the  ground  by  his  side. 
He  has  just  bored  a 
hole  in  the  lid  of  the 
tub  and  is  testing  the 
liquid,  with  his  finger, 
before  sending  it  to  a 
customer." 

"  Does  he  sell  by 
wholesale  ?  "  demand- 
ed the  boy. 

"  He  sells  in  any- 
way you  wish,"  said 
the  man.  "  Sometimes 
I  go  over  and  take  a 
cup  or  two,  and,  at 
others,  purchase  a  tub 
of  sake  for  my  house- 
hold consumption.  He 

SAKE-SHOP. 

keeps   all   his    utensils 

very  clean,  and  you  can  rely  on  what  you  buy  of  him." 

"  Look  at  the  cat  nursing  a  monkey,"  said  Fitz.  "  Neko 
seems  to  take  great  care  of  her  foster-child." 

"Cats  are  very  strange  things,"  said  Kimura.      'That  one 


138  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

lost  her  kittens  and  went  round  mewing  until  she  met  with  a 
little  monkey,  which  she  stole  and  adopted.  My  neighbor  paid 
for  the  animal,  and  has  experienced  a  great  deal  of  satisfaction 
in  watching  its  gambols  with  his  faithful  Neko." 

"What  does  he  do  with  those  empty  sake  tubs  ?"  inquired 
Johnnie. 

"  He  sells  them  to  poor  people  for  coffins,"  said  Kimura. 
"They  last  longer  than  any  other  kind,  and  are  very  comfort- 
able. The  best  brands  command  the  highest  prices." 

Fitz  was  about  to  indulge  in  an  outburst  of  merriment, when 
Sallie  checked  him  with  a  shake  of  the  head,  and  said,  —  "For 
what  are  those  little  buckets,  in  the  pen,  on  the  right  of  the 
shop?" 

"  Those  are  used  to  carry  sake,  to  customers.  Many  people 
prefer  buying  their  wine  in  small  quantities.  Have  you  any 
sake  shops  in  your  honorable  country?" 

"  No,"  answered  Sallie. 

"We  have  plenty  of  liquor  stores,"  said  Johnnie.  ?  There 
is  more  money  spent  in  them  every  year  than  would  keep  all 
our  poor  people." 

As  he  was  speaking  they  heard  a  shrill  cry,  and  boys 
shouting,  and  soon  a  kashi-uri  (cake-seller)  came  in  sight. 

He  walked  with  a  swinging  gait,  and  had  a  festive  air,  like 
one  who  does  a  good  business  and  thinks  something  of  him- 
self. On  his  head  was  a  pad,  surmounted  by  a  large,  flat  tub, 
filled  with  sweet  cakes,  and  decorated  with  two  packages  of 
wrapping-paper.  He  stopped  before  the  fan-maker's  house 
and  began  to  sing  and  dance,  — all  the  time  balancing  the  tub 
on  his  head. 

"That  is  a  very  new  business,"  said  Kimura.  "Those  fel- 
lows make,  oh!  heaps  of  money;  however,  it  takes  a  long  time 
to  learn  how  to  dance  with  a  tub  on  your  head.  Our  people 


AT    A    FAN-MAKER  S. 


139 


like  novel  things,  and  these  kashi-uri  charge  five  sen  for  a  one 
sen  cake,  and  in  a  few  years  retire  and  live  upon  the  interest  of 
their  money." 


CAKE-SELLER. 


They  bought  some  of  the  cakes,  and  gave  them  to  their 
host's  children,  who  bowed  to  the  floor  and  thanked  the  young- 
people  in  a  very  pretty  manner. 

After  the  kashi-uri  had  departed,  Sallie  asked,  "Who 
invented  the  folding-fan  ?  " 

"We   Japanese  did,"   was    the    proud    response.       "Many 


140  THE    WONDERFUL,    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

ignorant  Chinese  have  claimed  the  honor,  but  there  is  no  doubt 
upon  the  subject.  In  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Tenji(668-672 
A.  D.),  a  fan-maker,  whose  name  is  unknown,  lived  in 
Tamba  to  the  west  of  Kioto.  He  was  very  poor  and  had  a 
wife  whose  tongue  rattled  like  a  pilgrim's  clapper.  One  night 
after  they  retired  to  rest,  a  kawa-kori  (bat)  fluttered  into  the 
room  and  scared  his  wife,  who  said,  ?  Get  up,  you  lazy  fellow, 
and  kill  that  oni.  If  you  fail  to  do  so,  the  baby  will  not  have  a 
drop  of  blood  in  his  body  in  the  morning.' 

"  As  she  spoke,  the  bat  fluttered  into  the  lamp  and  nearly 
extinguished  it.  In  another  minute  the  creature  was  lying  dead 
upon  the  floor. 

"  At  daybreak  the  woman  woke  her  husband,  saying,  f  Get 
up,  get  up,  and  throw  that  horrible  demon  into  the  street. 
I  dare  not  touch  it.' 

"  He  obeyed,  and,  as  he  took  the  dead  bat  in  his  hand,  its 
wings  opened. 

r  Wife,'  he  cried,  r  I  have  an  idea!  This  is  what  we  have 
been  looking  for,  —  a  fan  that  will  close  up  and  can  be  carried 
in  the  sleeve.' 

"  He  procured  some  Hi-no-ki  wood,  cut  it  into  twenty-five 
slats  and  tied  them  together  with  strings,  thus  making  the  first 
folding-fan.  That  is  the  reason  those  articles  are  called 
Hi-ogi. 

'*  The  great  lords  preferred  them  to  the  open  fans,  and,  our 
samurai  adopted  them  on  account  of  their  being  portable,  leav- 
ing the  uchiiua  (round  fan)  to  women.  This  soon  became  a 
custom^  and  ever  since  the  folding-fan  has  been  used  by  men 
and  the  round  by  ladies." 

:f  I  have  seen  a  fan  made  of  bronze,"  said  Sallie.  "  What 
was  that  for  ?  " 

"  A  very  effective  weapon  was  sometimes  fashioned  in  that 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 


141 


shape,"  answered    Kimura.      "  Many  a  warrior  lias   had   the 
thread  of  his  existence  cut  short  with  one  of  those  things." 

o 

"  Boys,"  said  Oto,  "  are  you  aware  that  it  is  past  one 
o'clock?  We  had  better  go  to  the  temple  of  Temman-gu." 

They  all  thanked  Mr.  Kimura,  who,  collecting  his  family, 
accompanied  his  visitors  to  the  porch  and  bade  them  farewell, 
saying,— 

"It  is, only  a  few  paces  from  here  to  the  Shin-ji  no  ike. 
Your  visit  has  rilled  my  soul  with  the  greatest  pleasure,  and,  as 
long  as  I  live,  I  shall  not  forget  the  happiness  of  this  hour. 
Never,  in  all  my  life,  have  I  been  thus  honored." 

They  returned  his  compliments,  in  Japanese  fashion,  and 
left  him  and  his  family  bowing  and  crying,  ^Saionara" 

"  Follow  me,"  said  Oto.  "  I  know  the  way,  for  I  have  often 
been  to  this  place  with  my  honorable  mother." 

Upon  arriving  at  the  temple  they  passed  through  the  main 
gate  and  saw  a  great  number  of  people  looking  at  the  wistarias, 
the  blooms  of  which  hung  in  long  fronds,  and  were  exceedingly 
beautiful. 

The  trees  grew  all  round  the  pond  and  were  supported  by 
trellis-work  that,  in  some  places,  overhung  the  water. 

"  How  beautiful  those  flowers  are,"  said  Sallie.  "  Many  of 
the  bunches  must  be  over  a  yard  in  length." 

"Yes,  they  are  lovely,"  said  Johnnie,  in  a  thoughtful  tone, 
"still  I  admire  our  wistaria  quite  as  much  as  these,  the  fronds 
being  shorter  and  the  flowers  closer  together.  What  do  you 
say,  Fitz  ?  " 

"Why, —  there  are  fishes  in  that  pond,"  murmured  the  boy, 
"and  tortoises.  Jemmy!  wouldn't  I  like  to  have  a  hook  and 
line!  Flowers  are  very  elegant,  but  I  like  fun.  I  wonder 
whether  the  bozu  would  sell  any  of  the  kame" 

*  You  have  tortoises  on  the  brain,"  said  Sallie.  "  I  feel 
very  tired ;  had  we  not  better  be  going  home  ?  " 


142  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  I  told  our  jin-riki-sha  men  to  meet  us  here,"  returned 
Johnnie.  :?  Will  you  be  afraid  to  return  alone?  If  you  are  not, 
we  will  go  on  from  here  to  E-ko-in  and  see  the  wrestlers." 

"  I  am  not  afraid  to  go  anywhere  in  Tokio,"  she  said. 
'  The  people  are  always  kind  and  respectful  to  me,  and  I  feel 
perfectly  safe.  Old  Sobei  will  take  care  of  me." 

They  entered  their  vehicles  and  the  boys  went  one  way  and 
the  girl  the  other. 

"Hello!"  cried  Fitz,  as  they  neared  their  destination. 
:f  What  animals  are  those  hanging  up  outside  that  meat- 
shop?" 

They  stopped  their  jin-riki-sha  and  inspected  the  estab- 
lishment. 

"This  reminds  me  of  the  restaurant  for  foreign  food  in 
Golden  River,"  *  said  Johnnie. 

"  It  is  a  store  for  supplying  the  wrestlers  with  food,"  said 
Oto.  !r  That  class  of  men  have  always  eaten  meat,  as  they 
believe  it  gives  them  strength  and  makes  them  courageous. 
None  of  them  are  very  fastidious  about  their  diet,  which 
consists  of  foxes,  badgers,  wolves,  bears,  rabbits,  monkeys,  —  " 

w  And  rats,"  interposed  Fitz. 

"They  are  not  Chinese,"  quietly  retorted  Oto,  adding, 
"  Now,  boys,  first  turning  to  the  right,  and  we  shall  soon  be  at 
the  E-ko  in" 

They  proceeded  down  a  narrow  street,  at  the  end  of  which 
was  the  temple  of  Mu-yen-ji  (helplessness). 

A  taro-irioi  (sak6  deliverer)  whose  head  was  shaven  like 
a  bozu,  was  listening  to  a  handsomely  dressed  young  woman. 

"  Hurry  upon  your  business,  brother,"  she  said.  "  If  you 
return  home  in  time,  this  afternoon,  I  will  furnish  you  with 
money  to  go  to  see  the  wrestlers." 

*  Vide  Young  Americans  in  Japan,  p.  68. 


WINE-MERCHANT'S  BOY. 


144  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  boy  made  a  comical  gesture,  and  replied,  "  I  will  run 
round  double  quick.  I  have  only  four  bottles  and  one  little 
tub  of  sake  to  deliver.  As  soon  as  I  get  receipts  for  these 
signed  I  will  be  home.  You  are  a  very  kind  sister  to  think  of 
me." 

rr  What  is  that  tall  scaffolding  near  the  entrance  of  the  tem- 
ple? "  said  Johnnie. 

r  That  is  the  drum-tower,  erected  by  the  wrestlers.  Have 
you  not  heard  them  drubbing  their  instruments  in  the 
morning?  " 

'r  I  always  thought  it  was  the  soldiers  parading,"  said  Fitz. 
"  Now  I  know  where  the  noise  comes  from." 

They  entered  the  temple  gate,  and  halting  at  one  of  the  lit- 
tle tea-houses  on  the  left  of  the  path,  ordered  refreshments, 
then  Johnnie  inquired,  "  Why  do  they  have  wrestling  in  a  sa- 
cred place  like  this?" 

'That  is  a  very  interesting  story,"  replied  Oto.  "  In  1657 
a  terrible  fire  raged  in  this  city,  and  over  one  hundred  thousand 
people  were  burnt  to  death  or  died  from  exposure.  It  being 
impossible  to  identify  the  corpses  or  to  give  them  separate  in- 
terments, the  Sho-gun  ordered  Dan-za-ye-mon,  chief  of  the 
etas,  to  have  the  bodies  collected,  and  to  bury  them  in  a  com- 
mon pit  in  Yushijima  (Bull  Island),  which  was  then  the  name 
for  this  part  of  the  city.  The  mound  covering  this  enormous 
mass  of  unfortunates,  was  called  Mu-yen-dzuka  (the  hill 
of  destitution).  In  order  that  they  might  have  the  benefit 
of  the  clergy,  several  priests  from  each  Buddhist  sect  were 
commanded  to  come  here  and  recite  prayers  during  seven  days. 
That  is  why  this  building  is  called  the  temple  of  Helplessness, 
and  they  have  wrestling  matches  here.  Nearly  all  our  sacred 
places  are  endowed  by  the  members  of  the  congregation  buried 
in  the  grounds,  but  these  bodies  being  of  persons  who  were 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  145 

unknown,  no  one  desired  to  be  interred  here.  Who  could  tell 
whether  his  honorable  father  and  mother  rested  in  the  ceme- 
tery or  not?  The  Jo-do  sect,  who  built  the  temple,  was 
too  poor  to  support  it  and  there  were  no  gifts  from  the  rela- 
tives of  the  dead.  Under  these  circumstances  something  had 
to  be  done  for  the  bozu,  so  the  government  gave  them 
permission  to  allow  wrestling  matches,  and  to  have  various 
shows  in  the  ground  twice  a  year,  —  in  the  spring  and  fall. 
Now  you  understand  all  about  it.  Do  you  notice  those  big, 
fat  men  parading  up  and  down  so  pompously?  Those  are  the 
wrestlers." 

>f  They  seem  to  think  a  great  deal  of  themselves,"  remarked 
Fitz. 

tr  Yes,"  replied  Oto,  "  they  are  conceited  fellows.  Every- 
body makes  a  fuss  over  them  and  it  turns  their  heads." 

"  Come,"  said  Johnnie,  paying  for  the  refreshments,  tf  they 
are  shouting  inside  the  enclosure,  let  us  go  and  see  the  fun." 

The  edifice  in  which  the  wrestling  match  was  held,  covered 
a  large  area,  and  was  composed  of  two  tiers  of  bamboo  galle- 
ries, screened  at  the  back  with  mats  of  split  bamboo. 

On  the  right  of  the  entrance  was  a  matted  ticket  office 
with  a  stage  in  it  about  waist  high,  on  which  squatted  a 
number  of  ex-wrestlers  who  looked  very  solemn  and  digni- 
fied. Oto  paid  for  seats  in  a  box  on  the  first  tier  and  received 
three  notched  wooden  checks.  On  presenting  these,  the  boys 
were  admitted  by  the  doorkeeper,  and  entering  the  enclosure, 
were  conducted  to  their  seats,  to  which  they  mounted  by  a 
bamboo  ladder,  the  latter  being  taken  away  as  soon  as  they 
had  squatted  upon  the  floor. 

The  edifice  was  crowded  with  lightly-clad  men,  who, 
ever}'  now  and  then,  uttered  loud  yells  of  approval  or  condem- 
nation. 


146  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

In  the  centre  was  a  raised  circular  platform  of  earth,  sur- 
rounded by  two  enormous  rings  of  plaited  straw  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  canopy  supported  by  four  heavy  spars.  The 
fringe  of  the  structure  bore  the  mon  of  one  of  the  ex-lords. 
To  one  post  was  fastened  a  sword,  to  another  a  gohei,  to  the 
third  a  bag  of  salt,  and  to  the  fourth  a  bow.  In  each  corner 
squatted  an  ex-wrestler,  the  quartette  acting  as  umpires. 

Oto  turned  to  his  friends  and  said,  "Our  audiences  take 
sides,  the  Eastern  and  the  Western,  and  each  favors  the  men 
of  his  party.  When  an  Eastern  man  gets  a  good  grip,  his  par- 
tisans yell  vociferously  and  the  Westerns  howl  derisively, 
which  makes  the  exhibition  more  exciting." 

O 

"What  is  in  that  bag?"  asked  Fitz. 

"  Salt,"  answered  Oto.  'c  The  gohei,  bow  and  sword  are 
supposed  to  be  rewards,  and  the  bag  of  salt  is  for  luck.  The 
straw  rings  are  to  mark  the  bounds,  —  if  a  man  is  thrown  on 
or  outside  one  of  them  he  is  defeated.  Now  we  are  going  to 
see  some  good  fun." 

As  he  spoke,  a  herald,  dressed  in  old  ceremonial  style,  en- 
tered the  ring,  opened  his  fan  with  a  quick  motion  and 
announced  the  names  of  the  wrestlers  who  were  to  engage  in 
the  next  bout.  He  did  not  say  "  So  and  so  are  going  to  wres- 
tle," but  sang  in  a  peculiarly  quavering  manner  that  very 
much  amused  the  Jewetts. 

rf  Those  are  the  names  of  two  celebrated  wrestlers,"  re- 
marked Oto.  "  Here  comes  the  gioji  (master  of  the  ceremo- 
nies), see  what  a  dandy  he  is." 

As  he  spoke  a  tall,  dignified  man,  dressed  in  the  old  court 
style  and  wearing  the  kamishimo  (wing-like  garment)  as- 
cended into  the  ring  and  waving  a  peculiar-shaped  fan,  invited 
the  opponents  to  advance.  The  wrestlers  threw  off  their 
upper  garments,  and,  stepping  up  to  the  mound,  were  waited 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  147 

upon  by  the  last  athletes  who  had  given  an  exhibition  of 
skill. 

A  lacquered  cup  filled  with  water  was  handed  to  each  con- 
testant, who,  after  rinsing  his  mouth,  squirted  the  liquid  in  fine 
spray  over  his  chest  and  arms.  They  next  took  a  little  salt 
from  a  vessel  and  threw  it  upon  their  bodies,  then  stepped  into 
the  ring  and  began  to  stamp  first  on  one  foot  and  then  on  the 
other  and  to  slap  their  knees  in  a  very  ferocious  manner. 

"That  is  to  make  them  limber,"  said  Oto.  "Now  you  will 
see  something  wonderful." 

After  the  wrestlers  had  stamped  round  and  round  the  ring 
and  been  sufficiently  admired  by  their  friends,  the  master  of 
the  ceremonies  took  his  place  near  the  men  and  ordered  them 
to  crouch  ready  for  the  attack. 

It  is  necessary  that  both  men  shall  simultaneously  touch 
the  ground  with  their  thumbs  and  outspread  fingers.  If  they 
do  not  they  have  to  drink  more  water,  sprinkle  their  bodies  and 
begin  over  again. 

The  umpire  watched  the  contestants  very  closely  and  be- 
cause they  did  not  crouch  and  place  their  hands  on  the  ground 
together,  he  repeatedly  sent  them  back  to  their  corners. 

At  last,  when  they  faced  each  other  like  two  angry  roosters 
ready  for  battle,  he  gave  the  signal  to  begin.  In  another  in- 
stant they  were  locked  in  each  other's  embrace  and  swaying  to 
and  fro,  while  the  umpire  from  time  to  time  shouted  in  a  warn- 
ing tone: 

"  Gal  ga!  gal  ga!"  (Like  our  warning  —  "stop,  stop, 
stop!") 

The  Jewett  boys  soon  became  as  excited  as  the  rest  of  the 
spectators,  while  the  contestants  strained,  swayed,  and  moved 
hither  and  thither  in  their  endeavors  to  raise  each  other  from 
the  ground. 


148  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  master  of  the  ceremonies  danced  round  them,  as 
a  small  boy  does  in  a  street  fight,  the  audience  yelled  their 
approval  or  disapprobation,  and  the  muscles  of  the  wrestlers 
stood  out  like  whipcord. 

Suddenly  the  shorter  of  the  two  raised  his  opponent  clear 
off  the  ground  and  threw  him  among  the  spectators  outside  the 
ring,  who  received  him  with  loud  jeers. 

The  victor  glanced  proudly  round  at  his  party,  and  stepping 
out  of  the  ring,  resumed  his  place  among  them  and  was  petted 
and  patted  like  a  spoilt  child. 

The  herald  re-entered  the  arena,  and  proclaimed  the 
conqueror's  name  four  times. 

Between  each  match,  vendors  of  candy,  roasted  beans,  and 
the  foreign  luxury  of  ice-water,  mingled  among  the  people, 
and  shouted  the  names  of  their  wares,  while  the  audience 
smoked  and  chatted  about  the  contest. 

Two  other  wrestlers  were  announced  and  took  their  places 
in  the  ring. 

"Why  have  two  of  the  umpires  retired?"  asked  Johnnie. 

"Because  these  are  second-class  athletes,"  replied  O.o. 
"The  celebrated  artists  have  two  umpires  each,  while  one 
is  considered  enough  for  these  fellows." 

There  was  nothing  offensive  in  the  exhibition,  it  being 
merely  a  trial  of  strength  between  giants. 

The  boys  witnessed  several  matches,  during  some  of  which, 
the  spectators,  delighted  with  the  ability  of  their  proteges, 
rolled  their  kimono  (coats)  into  balls  and  threw  them  into  the 
ring,  to  be  redeemed  after  the  performance  by  payment  of 
money  or  treats  of  food  and  sake. 

The  Americans  fourtd  that  squatting  in  the  confined  space 
allotted  to  them,  was  very  painful  work,  so  they  reluctantly 
summoned  the  ladder  man,  descended  to  the  floor,  and  quitted 
the  building. 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

They  discovered  their  jin-riki-sha  runners  among  the 
audience  near  the  door,  and  signalled  to  them  that  they  re- 
quired their  services. 

Just  outside    the   gateway  they  saw  a    mushi-uri  (insect- 


INSECT-DEALER. 


seller)  peddling  fire-flies  and  crickets  in  exquisitely  made 
cages  of  bamboo.  Behind  him  were  two  big  receptacles  filled 
with  cages  from  which  proceeded  a  peculiar  noise,  caused 
by  the  movements  of  the  insects. 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S. 

The  vendor  wore  a  short,  blue  cotton  kimono,  and  loose 
sort  of  pants,  confined  about  the  waist  by  a  towel,  to  which 
were  affixed  his  pipe-case  and  tobacco-pouch,  balanced  by 
a  nitsuke  (button  of  carved  bone). 

"Here  you  are.  Fire-flies,  brilliant  fire-flies!  All  alive! 
all  alive!" 

"Let  us  buy  some  for  Sallie,"  said  Fitz,  "she  likes  pets." 

"I  would  not,"  said  Oto.  TThey  will  escape  from  the 
cages  and  crawl  about  the  house,  besides,  they  will  all  die 
in  a  little  while,  which  would  grieve  your  tender-hearted 
sister." 

A  small  boy  with  his  head  shaven  in  a  peculiar  style,  who 
had  been  investing  in  the  insects,  glanced  at  the  young  Ameri- 
cans and  said,  "  Mo-gu !  (Tartars.)  Let  us  go  away,  nurse, 
they  will  eat  us." 

tf  We  are  not  Tartars,  honorable  young  gentleman,"  said 
Johnnie,  in  Japanese. 

This  so  confounded  the  boy  that  he  hid  himself  under  his 
attendant's  sleeves,  and  thus  protected,  walked  after  her  in 
a  very  comical  fashion.  When  he  had  arrived  at  a  safe 
distance,  he  withdrew  his  head,  made  a  grimace  at  the  Jew- 
etts,  and  yelled  derisively, — 

^Teh  —  Mogul     Go  home  and  have  your  heads  shaved." 

"He  is  a  very  rude  lad,"  said. Oto.  :?  Well,  there  are  some 
such  in  every  country." 

"He  is  nothing  to  our  Cromlech  boys,"  said  Fitz,  settling 
himself  in  his  jin-riki-sha.  "Now  then,  Choso,  he-yaku  ban, 
Hongo  Kaga  Yashiki." 

The  men,  who  were  anxious  to  get  home,  ran  like  deer  and 
only  paused  once  before  the  gateway  of  a  Shinto  temple,  where 
a  number  of  bozu  were  drumming,  playing  music  and  dancing 
as  though  their  lives  depended  upon  their  capers.  The 


152  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

veranda  of  the  edifice  was  filled  with  men,  women  and  children 
who  looked  on  with  the  greatest  interest. 

"Why  are  the  priests  waving  those  flags?"  asked  Johnnie 
of  his  jin-riki-sha  man. 

Gosuke  chuckled,  bowed,  and  replied:  "When  I  was  a  boy, 
these  Shinto  bozu  did  not  have  very  much  power.  Now  that 
the  Mikado  has  been  restored,  they  are  reviving  the  ancient 
dances,  in  order  to  attract  attention.  For  my  part,  I  believe 
in  Buddha  and  the  seven  gods  of  Fortune." 

"Which  is  your  favorite?"  inquired  Fitz. 

"I  like  them  all,"  he  answered;  "but  think  Bishamon,  the 
god  of  swordsmen  and  learned  scholars  is  a  little  the  best. 
I  used  to  be  a  soldier,  so  I  worship  him." 

:t  That  is  the  one  that  carries  a  pagoda  in  his  left  hand,  and 
a  spear  in  his  right,  is  it  not?"  said  the  boy.  "Why  does  he 
have  those  things?" 

rThe  pagoda  contains  the  souls  of  pious  persons,  who  have 
prayed  to  him,  and  the  spear  is  to  defend  them  with.  I  al- 
ways make  my  offerings  to  him  on  Tora-no-hi"  (the  day  of  the 
tiger).  Adding  slyly,  "  I  have  lately  been  listening  to  your 
honorable  missionaries,  and  may  possibly  be  induced  to 
adopt  their  ideas.  I  would  willingly  join  them,  if  they  would 
hold  out  a  little  more  encouragement.  Rice  is  dear,  and  one's 
hunger  is  sometimes  very  sharp." 

"Come,"  said  Oto,  "we  must  be  moving.  It  is  after  nine 
o'clock  and  we  have  some  distance  to  travel." 

Away  they  went,  their  jin-riki-sha  men  yelling  to  the 
pedestrians,  and  running  their  vehicles  in  and  out  in  a  very 
dexterous  manner. 

When  they  reached  home,  they  saw  a  number  of  torches 
flaming  in  front  of  the  house  and  heard  the  murmur  of  a 
crowd. 


154  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"I  wonder  what  these  fellows  are  doing  here,"  said  Fitz, 
alighting.  "Oh,  father!  Were  you  afraid  we  had  lost  our 
way  ?  " 

The  Professor,  who  was  ruefully  regarding  the  assemblage, 
shook  his  head  and  replied,  "  No,  my  son,  I  have  only  been 
fearing  that  you  had  lost  your  senses.  What  induced  you 
to  send  all  these  tortoise-sellers  here?  " 

The  boy  turned,  and,  glancing  at  the  tortoise-bearers,  saw 
that  they  squatted  behind  tubs  filled  with  kame.  He  looked 
puzzled  and  was  about  to  speak  to  his  brother,  when  a  man 
approached,  crouched,  bowed  his  head  to  the  ground,  and  said, 
"  Honorable  O  bo-san,  I  have  brought  you  all  the  tortoises  I 
had  in  my  establishment.  My  assistants  are  tired,  will  you 
please  give  me  my  money  and  let  us  go." 

Fitz  gazed  about,  as  though  unable  to  believe  what  he  saw. 

The  tortoise-dealers  were  three  deep  on  both  sides  of  the 
drive,  clustered  like  bees  on  the  steps  of  the  veranda,  and 
peeped  like  monkeys  from  behind  the  dwarf  trees  in  the 
shrubbery. 

"  I  have  only  three  thousand  kame  here  to-night,"  con- 
tinued the  dealer.  "  If  you  require  any  more,  I  will  send  my 
men  into  the  country  to-morrow."  Bowing  respectfully,  and 
handing  the  boy  a  long  strip  of  paper  covered  with  writing, 
rtYou  will  find  this  account  quite  correct.  One  hundred  and 
twenty  yen.  I  always  make  a  reduction  when  an  honorable 
foreign  gentleman  takes  a  quantity." 

Fitz  heard  some  one  laughing  gently,  and  looking  into  the 
veranda  saw  his  parents  and  Sallie,  watching  him  and  enjoying 
his  embarrassment. 

''Take  a  quantity,"  he  murmured,  glancing  up  and  down 
the  bill.  "One  hundred  and  twenty  yen\  Oh!  One  hun- 
dred and  twenty  yen! Hum!  " 


AT  A  FAN-MAKER'S.  155 

"  Come,  pay  up,  Fitz,"  said  Johnnie,  in  a  mischievous  tone. 
"  You  ordered  all  the  kame  the  man  had  and  he  has  brought 

o 

them  to  you." 

The  boy  thought  for  a  moment,  then  said  to  the  dealer, 
"  Are  all  those  tortoises  exactly  of  the  same  size  and  kind  as 
the  ones  you  showed  me?" 

"  Not  quite,"  returned  the  man,  who  had  scoured  the  city 
to  make  the  collection. 

"Then  I  cannot  take  them,"  quickly  answered  Fitz. 
"  Goods  ought  always  to  be  delivered  according  to  sample. 
Here  are  five  yen,  give  me  its  value  in  the  reptiles.  After  all, 
you  will  not  be  so  badly  paid  for  your  trouble." 

At  first  the  dealer  was  inclined  to  be  impudent,  however, 
he  finally  took  the  money,  and  calling  to  the  crowd,  invited 
them  to  a  sake  shop,  saying,  "  One  never  knows  how  to  take 
these  foreign  gentlemen.  Though,  when  I  think  of  it,  he  is 
right,  for  the  kame  are  of  various  sorts  and  sizes." 

Fitz,  who  held  in  his  hand  a  basket  marked  with  the  tor- 
toise-seller's sign,  ascended  the  steps  of  the  veranda,  and 
depositing  his  burden,  saluted  his  mother. 

w  I  think  that  will  be  a  lesson  to  you,  Fitz  Jewett,"  said 
Sallie.  "Ordering  blindly  has  cost  you  very  dear." 

"  Don't  you  worry,  sissy,"  he  answered.  f  The  lesson  is 
worth  the  money.  I  shall  not  try  to  make  a  corner  in 
tortoises  again.  By  the  way,  have  your  flowers  come?" 

:r  Yes,  brother.  The  poor  man  waited  so  long  and  looked 
so  miserable  that  I  paid  him  his  five  yen  and  let  him  go." 

"Oh,  Sallie!  you  gave  him  a  dollar  too  much,"  retorted 
Fitz.  "  Let  us  shake  hands.  We  cannot  afford  to  be  so  ex- 
travagant. Both  of  us  are  in  the  same  boat." 

The  girl  regarded  him  affectionately  and  murmured,  — 

"I  shall  never  mind  being  in  the  same  boat  with  my 
brothers." 


ICO  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

%J 

"Well  said!  Well  said!"  they  cried.  "Good  for  you, 
Sallie." 

"  Now,  boys,  you  had  better  come  in  and  have  supper,"  ob- 
served Mrs.  Jewett.  :?  You  must  stay,  Oto." 

"  Pray  excuse  me,"  replied  the  young  doctor,  "  I  have  an 
engagement.  Next  month,  Johnnie,  we  will  go  to  the  pot- 


teries  and  to  view  the  iris  blossoms  of  Meguro.     Good  night, 
Fitz,  I  hope  you  will  be  successful  in  training  your  tortoises." 

"  Do  not  alarm  yourself,  honorable  doctor,"  was  the 
laughing  response.  "  I  know  what  to  do  with  them.  They 
will  make  excellent  soup.  Our  cook  knows  how  to  dress  the 
kame  in  restaurant  style.  I  will  fatten  them  up  and  the  next 
time  you  come,  we  will  give  you  a  dish  that  will  make  you 
imagine  you  are  in  New  Orleans.  Saionara,  old  fellow,  and 
do  not  forget  to  bring  us  a  supply  of  those  honorable  plas- 
ters." 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  157 


CHAPTER   VI. 

AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS. 

"  The  potter  moulds  the  clay  upon  the  wheel,  and  behold  a  jar  valued  at  a  few 
sen  (cents). 

"The  artist  takes  his  brush  and  decorates  the  ware,  and  lo,  the  piece  is  worth  the 
ransom  of  a  great  warrior." 

"/^\H,  Sallie!  "  cried  Fitz,  early  one  morning  in  June;  "  don't 
\J  you  hear  the  drums  beating.  The  Sui-jin  matsuri 
(festival  of  the  god  of  water)  occurs  to-day  and  the  Tokians 
are  wild  with  delight.  Several  dashi  (cars  containing  histor- 
ical figures)  have  already  been  seen  on  the  streets,  and 
you  ought  to  be  up  and  stirring.  If  Kin,  the  curio  man, 
were  announced  with  an  old  vase,  you  would  jump  like  a 
rabbit." 

"  I  have  been  up  for  more  than  an  hour,  Fitz,"  said  the 
smiling  girl,  as  she  entered  the  room  and  saluted  him.  "  Cho 
and  I  were  down  at  the  lower  gate  of  the  yashiki  and  saw  a 
dashi  go  by.  It  was  a  very  gay  affair,  and  on  the  top  was  a 
warrior  in  full  armor  standing  beneath  a  pine-tree.  Cho  says, 
in  the  old  times,  they  often  had  a  thousand  dashi  on  the  streets 
during  a  festival.  It  is  good  fun  to  hear  the  people  shout  as 
they  draw  the  cars  along." 

As  she  ceased  speaking  Cho  came  into  the  room  and 
said,  "  O  Sallie  San,  the  honorable  Dr.  Nambo  is  at  the  gate." 

"All  right,  Cho,"  answered  the  girl.  "Where  is  Johnnie 
San  ? " 

"  Here  I  am,"  said  her  brother,  coming  into  the  room  with 
Oto.  "What  do  you  want,  sissy?" 


158 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"How  are  you,  doctor?"  said  Sallie,  shaking  hands  with 
her  visitor.     "  I  am  glad  you  have  come  so  early." 

w  My  mother  is  anxious  to  accompany  us  to  Meguro,"  re- 


CARS    USED   AT   FESTIVALS. 


plied  their  friend.       "Would  you  have  any  objection  to  her 
being  one  of  our  party?" 

"I  shall  be  delighted,"  returned  the  girl.     "Stay  and  take 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS. 


'59 


breakfast  with  us  and  we  will  call  for  your  parent  on  our  way. 
I  believe  we  agreed  first  to  visit  the  potters  at  Shiba  and  then 
to  go  on  to  Meguro.  It  will  be  a  long  run  for  our  jin-riki-sha 
men,  so  I  think  we  had  better  engage  some  extra  help." 

"Sallie  always  arranges  everything,"  said  Fitz.      "She  is  a 
thorough  American  girl,  isn't 
she?" 

"  It  is  good  you  have  a 
sister  to  think  for  you,  Fitz," 
quietly  replied  Oto.  "  If  you 
were  left  to  yourself  you 
would  get  into  some  bad 
scrapes.  What  have  you 
done  with  your  tortoises  ?  " 

The  boy  chuckled  awhile, 
then  said,  —  "I  found  I  could 
not  tame  them  and — well, 
the  cook  said  they  were  poi- 
sonous, so  I  performed  the 
ceremony  of  ho-jo-ye  (set- 
ting living  things  free).  Sal- 
lie,  I,  and  old  Choso  went 
to  the  pond  in  the  yashiki 
and  let  the  kame  go.  They 


BISHAMON,    GOD    OF    SWORDSMEN   AND 
SCHOLARS. 


were  a  bad  investment.  Say, 
Oto,  will  you  not  stop  to 
breakfast?" 

"  I  am  sorry,  but  I  promised  to  return  to  my  mother,"  said 
the  doctor.  "Sallie,  please  do  not  forget  to  call  at  our  house 
on  your  way  to  Shiba,  we  will  be  ready  for  you." 

About  nine  o'clock  the  girl  and  her  brothers  bade  their 
parents  adieu  and  started  in  their  jin-riki-sha. 


i6o 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


Upon  quitting  the  yashiki  they  saw  an  ameya  (gluten  fig- 
ure maker),  whereupon  Fitz  insisted  upon  stopping  to  watch 
the  man. 

The  ameya  was  seated  behind  a  portable  bench,  in  the  cen- 
tre of  which  was  an 
upright  frame  con- 
taining sticks  sur- 
mounted by  toys 
made  of  a  species  of 
barley  sugar.  He 
was  a  shrewd  old 
fellow,  and  had  little 
bead-like  eyes  that 
twinkled  with  merri- 
ment. 

In  front  of  his 
stand  were  two  boys 
and  a  girl  who  in- 
tently watched  him. 
On  seeing  the  Jew- 
etts  he  sang  a  short 
song,  to  attract  a 
larger  crowd,  then, 
bowing,  said,  — 

"  Honorable  gen- 
tlemen and  lady  from 
afar,  I  know  you  are 
just  dying  for  me  to  make  you  some  beautiful  object.  Tell 
me,  what  shall  it  be  ?  A  gourd  for  your  sake,  a  rat  on  a  dai- 
kon,  or  a  bunch  of  cherry  blooms.  Order  whatever  you  like! 
Nothing  is  impossible  for  me  to  model.  Call  for  anything 
in  the  way  of  fish,  and  I  will  make  it  before  your  eyes." 


MAKER   OF  GLUTEN   FIGURES. 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN    MAKERS.  l6l 

To  Fitz  — "  You  look  hungry,  O  bo-san,  what  will  you 
have?" 

"  A  dozen  blue  points  on  the  half  shell,"  said  the  merry 
fellow. 

The  ameya  grinned  as  though  he  were  puzzled,  bowed  and 
said,  —  "  Honorable  sir,  do  not  be  too  hard  on  a  poor  man  who 
has  to  earn  his  daily  rice.  When  I  said  order  anything,  I 
did  not  mean  the  blue  dragons  you  refer  to,"  adding  aside,  — 
"though  I  never  heard  of  them  having  half  a  shell.  I  will 
not  wait  for  any  more  talk,  but  will  make  you  a  monkey  eating 
a  peach." 

He  took  a  short  piece  of  hollow  bamboo  from  a  little 
drawer  in  the  stand,  dipped  the  end  of  it  in  a  very  thick,  glu- 
tinous paste,  that  was  in  a  dish  before  him,  and  began  to 
distend  it,  just  as  a  glass-blower  does  a  molten  mass  of  the 
vitreous  substance. 

The  young  Americans  watched  him  with  the  greatest  in- 
terest, and  admired  the  way  in  which  he  manipulated  the 
sweetstuff. 

After  blowing  out  the  mass  until  it  was  four  times  its  orig- 
inal size,  he  pinched  it  here,  nipped  it  there,  and,  finally, 
modelled  a  very  correct  representation  of  a  monkey  eating  a 
momo.  He  detached  it  from  the  blow-pipe  and  fastened  it  to 
a  short  bamboo  rod,  then  seized  some  brushes,  placed  them 
between  his  fingers,  charged  their  points  with  paint,  dexter- 
ously colored  the  model,  and,  holding  it  out,  said, — 

"  Honorable  sir,  here  is  your  saru  (monkey).  I  never 
make  any  charge  to  honorable  foreigners,  they  give  me  what 
they  like." 

The  boy  handed  him  a  few  sen,  which  the  ameya  picked 
up  and  put  in  his  sleeve,  saying  in  a  grumbling  tone, — 

"  Merciful  Kuwannon,  these  foreigners  know  as  much  as 


1 62  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

our  own  people.  He  has  only  paid  me  two  sen  more  than  my 
regular  charge." 

"Is  this  good  to  eat?"  asked  Fitz,  eyeing  the  candy  sus- 
piciously. 

"  It  is  delicious,"  said  the  man.  !t  You  have  only  to  taste 
it,  and  you  will  decide  to  remain  here  all  day  and  have  these 
beautiful  articles  made,  so  you  can  eat  them  when  they  are 
fresh." 

The  lad  smelt  the  candy,  and,  handing  it  to  a  little  girl 
among  the  spectators,  said,  "  Here,  sister,  take  this.  You  will 
possibly  appreciate  it  more  than  I  shall." 

As  t\\Q  jin-riki-sha  started,  the  child  grasped  her  prize 
frantically,  and  rushed  off  shouting,  "That  Chinaman  has  given 
me  an  ame-zaiku.  Come,  O  Sin,  let  us  go  and  eat  it." 

Away  went  the  Jewetts,  at  a  brisk  pace,  until  they  reached 
the  district  where  Oto  resided. 

:t  Why  are  those  white  stones  placed  along  the  edge  of  the 
path  ?  "  asked  Johnnie. 

"  For  the  same  reason  that  our  people  lime-wash  rocks  and 
put  them  in  their  gardens,"  said  Sallie.  :r  They  think  they 
look  pretty." 

:t  You  are  wrong,"  said  Fitz.  "The  mom-ban  told  me  that 
it  was  to  prevent  \\\e  jin-riki-sha  men  from  running  on  the 
grass.  Hello!  there  is  a  sakara-uri  (fish-peddler).  Mother 
said  if  we  met  one,  I  was  to  send  him  up  to  the  yashiki" 

On  being  addressed,  the  man  stopped,  deposited  his  tubs, 
and  assuming  a  crouching  position,  said,  "  Is  there  anything 
that  your  honorable  excellencies  require?  I  have  small  Span- 
ish mackerel,  shad,  turnips,  and  cuttle-fish.  Please  buy  some- 
thing of  me  ?  " 

"Will  you  take  two  of  your  largest  fish  to  No.  100 
Kaga  Yashiki?  "  asked  Johnnie. 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS. 

"  Certainly,  O  bo-san,  I  will  go  there  at  once.  Please  give 
me  a  shoko  (note),  to  say  how  much  I  am  to  receive.  The 
price  of  these  large  mackerel  is  fifty  sen  each.  I  have  been  a 
fisherman,  so  I  know  when  my  stock  is  good  and  fresh." 


FISH   VENDOR. 


"What  are  the  strangest  fish  you  ever  saw?"  asked  Sallie. 

The  fellow  scratched  his  ear,  then  said,  "  There  are  won- 
derful things  in  the  sea.  For  instance,  first,  there  is  the  mana- 
katsuo  (parrot-fish),  which  has  as  many  colors  as  a  geisha's 


164  THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

obi,  secondly  the  hari-fugo,  which  is  striped  underneath  and 
spotted  above,  and  which,  when  it  is  angry,  blows  itself  up 
into  a  ball  bristling  with  spines.  It  is  not  a  good  fish  to  catch, 
as  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  handle.  There  is  also  the 
kio-gen  hakama  (sole),  striped  black  and  white,  which  is 
really  good  eating,  and  that  prince  of  fishes,  the  ham" 

"  I  never  knew  ham  was  a  fish  before,"  said  Fitz.  "  This 
will  be  news  to  our  Chicago  and  Cincinnati  friends." 

The  boy's  remark  puzzled  the  peddler,  who  said,  "  Q  bo- 
san,  I  will  take  my  respectful  leave.  I  do  not  mind  your 
joking,  but  am  sure  you  are  aware  that  ham  is  a  very  nice 
fish." 

"  Please  don't  jest  with  him,  he  does  not  understand  you," 
remarked  Sallie.  :<:  You  know  very  well  that  ham  is  the  Jap- 
anese for  conger  eel.  We  are  wasting  our  time,  let  us  go  on 
to  Oto's." 

They  found  Mrs.  Nambo,  very  handsomely  dressed,  wait- 
ing to  receive  them. 

:?You  are  so  kind  to  allow  me  to  accompany  you,"  she 
said  to  Sallie.  "  I  have  long  desired  to  visit  a  pottery,  and 
now  I  shall  have  the  double  pleasure  of  seeing  one  and  also  of 
viewing,  the  irises  at  Meguro.  When  I  was  a  girl,  I  wrote  a 
poem  called  '  The  two  beautiful  flowers.' ' 

The  visitors  begged  she  would  honor  them  by  repeating  it, 
whereupon  she  said,  — 

"Silver  mirror  beneath, 
Golden  sky  above, 

What  ? 
The  iris. 

Golden  glow  beneath, 
Silver  mirror  above, 

What? 
The  chrysanthemum," 


1 66  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  young  Americans  listened  respectfully,  and  Sallie  said, 
"  That  is  quite  too  exquisite.  Japanese  poetry  always  reminds 
me  of  Joaquin  Miller's  Songs  of  the  Sierras.  One  has  to  think 
a  long  while  before  discovering  the  meaning." 

?  Yes,"  bluntly  remarked  Fitz.  "  They  are  like  conun- 
drums, you  have  to  knot  your  brains  before  you  can  solve 
them.  Mrs.  Nambo,  do  you  know  tbat  Sallie  once  wrote 
a  poem  on  a  bird.  I'll  recite  it  to  you." 

His  sister  shook  her  head  and  bit  her  lips,  notwithstanding 
which,  he  continued, — 

"  Oh  !  lovely  sparrow,  looking  out  for  crumbs  — , 

What  is  the  next  line,  Sallie?  " 

"  I  have  forgotten,"  she  said,  quickly.  "  Please  do  not 
take  any  notice  of  him,  Mrs.  Nambo.  I  was  quite  a  child 
when  I  wrote  that  nonsense.  You  must  forgive  Fitz,  he  is 
always  joking." 

?  Your  effusion  was  no  joke  to  read,  Sallie,"  was  the  merry 
response.  "  It  filled  ten  sheets  of  paper,  and  then  you  had 
only  finished  part  first.  I  think  the  Japanese  poems  beat  ours; 
they  are  shorter.  I  can  understand  the  meaning  of  the  one 
Mrs.  Nambo  has- so  kindly  recited.  It  is  this: 

'  The  golden  sun  reflects  the  image  of  the  beautiful  iris  in  the  silvery  water  from  which 

it  springs  ; 
The  silver  moon  shining  upon  the  temple  gardens  reveals  the  golden  chrysanthemum.' 

Sallie,  you  must  allow  that  is  true  poetry." 

"I  think  your  sister's  poem  began  very  charmingly,"  said 
the  old  lady.  "I  hear  my  husband's  voice;  I  am  glad  you 
will  see  him  before  we  leave." 

As  she  spoke,  Mr.  Nambo  entered  and  welcomed  them  in 
the  old  Japanese  fashion,  kneeling  and  bowing  his  head  repeat- 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  167 

edly  to  the  mats;  having  done  which  he  sat  upon  his  heels,  and 
after  inquiring  about  the  health  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jewett,  said, 
"  I  have  a  very  good  friend,  who  owns  one  of  the  potteries 
in  Shiba.  I  will  send  a  telegram  to  him  and  he  will  show  you 
over  his  works.  Would  you  like  to  see  some  fine  specimens 
of  old  ware  ?  " 

"That  will  be  splendid,"  exclaimed  Sallie.  "Mr.  Nambo, 
I  have  long  wanted  to  view  your  collection." 

The  gentleman  called  his  chief  servant  and  directed  him  to 
fetch  certain  packages  from  the  dozo  (fire-proof  store-house) 
in  the  rear  of  the  dwelling. 

The  man  returned,  after  a  few  moments'  absence,  bearing 
several  boxes  which  he  placed  on  the  mat  before  his  master. 
The  visitors  squatted  round  in  Japanese  fashion,  then  Mr. 
Nambo  opened  one  of  the  packages  and  said,  "  I  will  first 
show  you  a  very  ancient  flask  made  by  a  priest  named 
Gi-yo-ji,  who  was  a  native  of  the  province  of  Idzumi.  This 
wonderful  man  invented  the  potter's  wheel,  and  taught  the  peo- 
ple how  to  use  it.  Only  a  few  pieces  of  his  wrare  are  in 
existence." 

Their  host  opened  the  box  and  lifted  out  the  vessel,  which 
was  carefully  wrapped  in  purple  crape.  He  removed  the  lat- 
ter and  revealed  a  circular  bottle  about  eight  inches  high  and 
of  a  glossy,  dark  color,  with  hook-like  handles,  enclosed  in  a 
network  of  split  rattan.  "This  was  made  eleven  hundred 
and  fifty  years  ago,  and  is  a  wonderful  specimen  of  Gi-yo-ji 
yaki.  No  one  knows  what  was  kept  in  it." 

He  handed  the  bottle  to  Sallie,  who  received  it  reverently, 
and  examined  its  details  minutely.  Upon  giving  the  treasure 
to  Fitz,  she  said,  "  I  could  gaze  on  it  all  day!  " 

Fitz  alternately  closed  his  right  and  left  eye,  then  applied 
his  nose  to  the  neck  of  the  bottle  and  sniffed  repeatedly,  after 


i68 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


which  he  nodded  to  Mr.  Nambo,  and  said,  "  This  flask  is  too 
utterly  utter!     I  know  what  Mr.  Gi-yo-ji  kept  in  it." 

"Do  you?"  was   the   innocent  response.     "I   have   never 
before  been  able  to  meet  with  any  one  who  could  tell  me." 


FLASK    MADE    BY    GI-YO-JI. 

"  Do  not  joke  with  the  dear  old  gentleman,"  murmured 
Sallie  in  English. 

Fitz,  not  at  all  abashed,  beamed  upon  his  friend,  and  said, 
"He  used  to  keep  his  camphor  liniment  in  this  tsubo\  it  still 
smells  quite  strong  of  it." 

Mr.  Nambo,  who  did  not  understand  the  boy's  fun,  smiled, 
bowed,  and  replied,  "  The  odor  of  camphor  rises  from  the  gum 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  169 

we  put  in  the  fire-proof  building  to  keep  out  the  insects.  Will 
you  kindly  tell  me  what  you  mean  by  too  utterly  utter.  Is  it 
the  name  of  one  of  your  ancient  wares?" 

"Sallie  knows;  I  don't,"  answered  Fitz. 

rrWill  you  please  explain  the  sentence,  O  Sallie  Sama," 
blandly  inquired  the  gentleman. 

The  young  lady  blushed,  hesitated  and  said, —  "It  cannot 
be  explained,  sir." 

"Is  it  English,"  he  asked. 

"It  is  —  pigeon  English," 
said  Fitz,  coming  to  her  assist- 
ance. 

"Oh,  yes!  Now  I  under- 
stand," returned  Mr.  Nambo. 
"A  sort  of  Yokohama  namari" 

(dialect).  RAKU-CHA  WARE  (TEA-BOWL  OF 

RAKU  WARE). 
He  opened  a  box  and  taking 

out  a  bowl,  enclosed  in  a  satin  bag,  continued, — 

"  I  have  here  a  beautiful  cha-ivan  (tea-bowl)  of  pale  red 
Raku  ware.  It  was  made  by  Cho-niu,  the  seventh  de- 
scendant of  Tanaka  Cho-ji-ro.  This  is  a  very,  very  fine 
specimen  and  is  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  old.  Such  ware 
is  worth  its  weight  in  gold." 

"  It  does  not  look  it,"  said  Fitz.  "  Now,  Sallie  Jewett,  go 
into  ecstasies.  This  sort  of  stuff  pleases  you." 

"  It  is  very  fine,"  she  returned.  "If  you  cannot  appreciate 
this,  I  can,  brother.  I  am  greatly  enjoying  the  sight  of  these 
beautiful  pieces." 

Her  speech  pleased  Mr.  Nambo,  who  bowed,  sucked  in 
his  breath,  and  taking  a  small  bag  of  silken  brocade  from  a 
box,  opened  it  and  said, — 

"  I  have  here  a  little  Seto  cha-ire  (tea-jar),  such  as  was  used 


170 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


for  the  ceremonial  tea-drinking.  Although  this  is  only  a  small 
piece  of  reddish-yellow  stone-ware,  it  is  very  valuable.  In  the 
first  place  it  was  made  over  five  hundred  and  twenty  years 
ago,  and  is  covered  with  both  light  and  dark  brown  glaze;  sec- 
ondly, it  once  belonged  to  lyeyasu,  therefore,  whenever  I 
take  it  out,  I  bow  reverently  to  the  noble  spirit  of  the  great 
Sho-gun." 

"  Do  you  think  it  does  him  any  good  ? "  politely  inquired 
Fitz. 

Sallie    frowned    and    shook  her  head,   while   Mr.  Nambo 

regarded  the  boy  with  a  puz- 
zled air,  and  said  in  a  dreamy 
manner, — "  I  never  thought  of 
that  before.  I  suppose  every 
one  likes  to  be  respected. 
American  and  Japanese  ideas 
differ  so  greatly  that  I  am  con- 
tinually receiving  new  shocks." 
"  I  hope  I  have  not  said  any- 
thing to  make  you  feel  bad," 
observed  Fitz,  taking  the  tea- 
jar  from  his  sister,  who  looked 
reproachfully  at  him.  "  I  really 
beg  you  a  hundred  thousand  pardons." 

Oto  knew  that  his  father  would  "require  a  little  time  to 
recover  himself,  so  he  said, "  I  think,  Sallie,  if  you  have  no  ob- 
jection, we  will  start  for  Shiba." 

"If  your  mother  is  ready,  I  am,"  answered  the  girl;  then 
turning  to  her  host,  she  said,  —  "Mr.  Nambo,  will  you  some- 
time do  me  the  great  favor  of  letting  me  see  all  your  collection 
of  keramics?  " 

*  Yes,  yes,"  said    the  delighted  old    gentleman.     "  If  you 


TEA-JAR   OF   SETO   WARE. 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS. 


171 


will  come  any  day  I  will  show  you  all  my  treasures.  I  have 
many  very  fine  pieces,  and  am  sure  you  will  be  charmed  with 
them.  It  is  a  great  happiness  to  me  to  see  a  foreign  young 
lady  so  thoroughly  appreciate  our  fine  arts.  Your  brother's 
remark  has  set  my  old  head  thinking.  I  shall  never  become 
Americanized,  like  my  son." 

"  Please  do  not  permit  Fitz's  thoughtless  speech  to  annoy 
you,"  said  Sallie.  "  I  thank  you  so  much  for  your  kind  prom- 
ise and  shall  avail  myself  of  it  at  an  early  day." 


FIRE-PROOF    WAREHOUSE. 


:?You  will  make  me  very  happy,"  said  Mr.  Nambo. 
"  Please  ask  your  honorable  parents  to  accompany  you." 

"  They  will  be  delighted  to  do  so,"  she  replied.  "  Mrs. 
Nambo,  I  am  at  your  service." 

They  quitted  the  house  and  in  a  few  minutes  were  en  route 
for  Shiba,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  suburbs  of  Tokio.  The 
party  passed  through  a  quarter  that  had  not  been  touched  by 
foreign  improvements  and  in  which  the  houses  were  nearly  all 
of  them  fire-proof. 

"  Hello,"  said  Johnnie,  stopping  his  vehicle,  and  addressing 


172  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

a  man  who  was  carrying  some  swords.  "  Are  those  for 
sale?" 

"  No,"  was  the  reply,  "  but  if  you  go  to  the  next  house, 
you  will  find  some  very  beautiful  katana.  My  employer  has 
a  dozo  (fire-proof  warehouse)  full  of  them." 

Johnnie  entered  the  establishment,  leaving  his  friends  still 
seated  in  their  jin-riki-sha. 

:t  Why  are  the  centre  portions  of  these  buildings  of  stone 
and  two  stories  in  height?"  inquired  Fitz  of  Oto.  "And  why 
are  the  gables  provided  with  chevaux-de-frisef* 

"  That  part  of  the  establishment  is  fire-proof,"  answered 
Oto.  :?  You  will  observe  the  upper  windows  have  massive 
iron  shutters  that  are  closed  at  night.  When  a  fire  breaks  out, 
the  proprietor  fills  the  crevices  all  round  the  windows  with 
wet  mud  and  shuts  the  thick  doors  below.  If  the  conflagra- 
tion comes  near  the  house,  it  consumes  everything  but  the 
stone  and  cement.  The  tori  yoke  (bird  keep  off)  are  put 
there  to  prevent  pigeons  and  crows  from  resting  on  the  gables." 

"  I  thought  they  were  cat-teasers,"  said  the  merry  boy. 
"  Here  comes  brother,  but  he  has  not  bought  any  swords." 

rr  That  merchant  wants  a  small  fortune  for  his  goods,"  said 
Johnnie.  "  He  has  a  blade  which  he  asserts  was  made  by 
Masamune,  for  which  he  demands  two  thousand  yen" 

"  Who  was  Masamune,  a  negro  minstrel  ?  "  asked  Fitz. 

:?You  know  better  than  that,"  snapped  his  brother.  "He 
was  the  most  celebrated  sword-maker  in  Japan.  I  wish  you 
would  not  poke  fun  at  everything,  Fitz  Jewett." 

"Oh,  all  right!  all  right!"  was  the  good-humored  reply. 
:?  You  are  awfully  touchy,  Johnnie.  We  can't  all  worship  old 
cutlery  as  you  do." 

After  quite  a  ride,  ft\&  jin-riki-sha  men  turned  to  the  right 
and  ran  their  vehicles  over  a  wooden  bridge  into  a  temple 


•    -niMK  .    •:     .,  if  HI; 


174 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


enclosure,  the  entrance  to  which  was  guarded  by  a  very  hand- 
some stone  toru. 

"Is  the  pottery  in  here?"  said  Fitz. 


STREET   TOY-SELLER. 


"  No,"  replied  Oto,  "but  we  can  walk  through  the  grounds, 
which  are  very  beautiful.  The  works  are  situated  on  the  hill 
at  the  back  of  this  place." 

Sallie  accompanied  Mrs.  Nambo  and  had  quite  an  interest- 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  175 

ing  conversation  with  her.     The  dear  old  lady  had  evidently 
made  up  her  mind  to  convert  the  girl  to  Buddhism. 

"My  child,"  she  said,  "although  your  religion  is  a  very 
beautiful  one,  ours  is  much  older  and  better.  I  think  if  you 
were  to  read  some  good  books,  you  would  be  converted  to  our 
way  of  thinking." 

Sallie  answered  politely,  but  endeavored  to  change  the 
conversation.  Noticing  an  omocha-uri  (toy-seller),  who  had 
a  stall  in  the  grounds,  she  said,  "  I  always  laugh  when  I  see 
those  figures  of  Daruma,  they  look  so  comical.  Why  do  they 
put  a  moustache  on  his  face?  Look  at  that  dear  little  baby  on 
his  nurse's  back,  he  is  pointing  at  the  toys  and  crying,  r  Give 
me !  give  me ! ' 

Mrs.  Nambo  did  not  pay  any  attention  to  the  child,  being 
anxious  to  enlighten  Sallie  on  Buddhism,  so  she  said,  "  Daruma 
was  a  very  holy  saint,  and  it  is  a  shame  to  make  toys,  snow- 
men, and  tobacconists'  signs  in  his  image.  He  came  from  the 
land  of  Shaka,  therefore  wore  a  beard  and  moustache.  When 
he  crossed  from  Corea  he  had  no  boat,  but  rode  over  on  an 
ashi  (rush)  leaf.  Before  venturing  on  this  perilous  voyage, 
he  prepared  himself  by  making  a  retreat  that  lasted  nine  years, 
during  which  time  he  knelt  with  his  face  turned  to  the  wall. 
It  is  said  that  he  thus  wore  off  his  lower  limbs,  so  he  is  repre- 
sented as  having  only  head,  arms,  and  body.  Ah,  my  daugh- 
ter, if  wre  could  all  be  like  him!  " 

Although  Sallie  felt  very  much  inclined  to  smile,  she  pre- 
served her  gravity,  knowing  that  the  worthy  lady  thoroughly 
believed  what  she  said.  Her  great  fear  was  that  Fitz,  who 
had  eagerly  listened  to  their  conversation,  would  make  one  of 
his  thoughtless  speeches. 

"  Shaka  was  so  gentle,"  continued  Mrs.  Nambo,  "  he  had 
compassion  for  everything,  and  would  neither  cause  pain  nor 


176 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


death  to  the  smallest  insect.  If  we  followed  his  teaching,  there 
would  be  little  sorrow  or  suffering  in  the  world.  You  must 
study  the  subject.  I  think  you  would  be  converted  if  you  only 
understood  it." 

:<:You  are  very  kind,"  said  Sallie,  wishing  that  her  friend 


DARUMA. 


would  talk  about  something  else.  "  Are  we  near  the  pottery, 
Oto?" 

:?  Yes,  quite  close,"  replied  the  young  doctor.  "  Here  we 
are,  straight  up  the  hill." 

The  works  proved  to  be  a  number  of  poor-looking  houses 
and  several  kilns  built  one  above  the  other  on  rising  ground. 

"  If  you  wait  a  moment,  I  will  see  if  the  proprietor  is  at 
home,"  said  Oto.  :?  The  place  is  not  very  imposing,  still  they 
make  some  beautiful  ware  here." 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  1 77 

As  he  was  speaking,  a  middle-aged  Japanese,  wearing  a  silk 
kimono,  came  to  the  gate  of  the  enclosure,  and,  bowing,  said, 
"Are  you  the  honorable  Dr.  Nambo?" 

rt  I  am  that  insignificant  person,"  answered  Oto. 

The  man  bowed  very  low,  sucked  in  his  breath,  and  said, 
"  I  have  just  received  a  telegram  from  your  honorable  father. 
Please  come  into  this  miserable  place  and  I  will  show  you 
everything  we  have.  My  soul  is  filled  with  regret  that  we 
cannot  exhibit  something  worth  looking  at." 

Oto  introduced  his  mother  and  friends,  and,  referring  to 
Sallie,  said,  "This  young  lady  is  very  much  interested  in  our 
keramic  art.  Will  you  kindly  show  her  everything  from  the 
beginning.  What  kind  of  ware  do  you  make?  " 

The  manufacturer  bowed,  smiled,  and  blandly  replied, 
"  Everything.  Whatever  our  customers  order.  I  make 
Satsuma,  Ilizen,  Seto,  Karatsu,  Shigaraki,  Itsumo,  Kiyoto, 
Raku,  Awata,  Kaga,  Banko,  Arita,  Okawaji,  and  Ota,"  —  add- 
ing, with  a  knowing  air,  "We  keep  pace  with  the  times." 

Sallie,  who  had  listened  to  his  speech  with  undisguised 
amazement,  exclaimed,  "  How  can  you  make  Satsuma  and 
Kaga,  here  in  Shiba?" 

"  I  will  show  you,"  he  answered,  smiling  like  a  school-boy. 
"  Some  years  ago  our  foreign  customers  were  obliged  to 
send  to  Satsuma  for  that  ware.  You  know  how  impatient 
your  countrymen  are.  Our  slow  method  of  transportation  did 
not  suit  them,  so  in  order  to  supply  the  demand,  we  imported 
Satsuma  potters  and  brought  the  clay  here  infune  (junks)." 

He  led  the  way  into  a  long  shed,  containing  several  hun- 
dred bales  and  tubs,  wrapped  in  rice  matting. 

r  This  building,"  he  said,  "  contains  clay  from  fifty  different 
places.  When  I  receive  an  order  fora  fine  piece  of  old  Hizen, 
I  tell  my  potter  to  take  so  much  Hizen-clay,  and,  as  soon  as  the 


178  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

piece  is  modelled,  direct  my  artist  to  decorate  it  in  the  Hizen 
style.  If  it  is  required  to  be  very  old,  we  stain  it  or  bury  it  in 
mud,  which  gives  it  an  ancient  appearance.  Of  course  no 
judge  is  ever  deceived,  but  then,"  laughing,  w  everybody  is  not 
a  connoisseur." 

His  statement  not  only  surprised  but  pained  Sallie,  who 
said,  r  I  suppose  many  of  the  fine  Japanese  things  we  bought 
in  America  were  forgeries." 

f?  Not  the  fine  things,"  glibly  answered  the  potter.  :?  We 
cannot  make  really  fine  Satsuma  or  any  other  ware.  In  the 
old  time,  when  the  potter  belonged  to  his  daimio  (great  lord), 
he  could  be  a  month  or  a  year  making  a  vase  or  a  small  piece 
of  porcelain,  and  he  put  his  whole  soul  in  his  work.  Now,  I 
get  a  telegram  from  Yokohama,  or  may  be  from  your  honor- 
able country,  ordering  fifty  dozen  of  one  article  and  am  told 
to  hurry  up.  Then  again  we  have  to  work  cheaply,  as  there  is 
more  competition.  Therefore,  although  we  pretend  to  make 
old  things,  not  even  a  child  is  deceived  by  them." 

"  I  have  known  a  good  many  grown-up  people  to  be," 
interposed  Fitz.  tfNovv  show  us  how  you  make  your  imi- 
tations." 

The  proprietor  smiled,  and  took  them  into  a  second  shed  in 
which  over  sixty  potters  were  working  at  their  wheels,  circu- 
lar disks  of  wood,  that  revolved  on  pivots. 

:tYou  will  now  see  how  a  vase  is  made,"  he  said.  :f  The 
workman  crouches  by  his  wheel,  and  has  a  lump  of  wet 
porcelain-clay  on  his  right  hand."  Addressing  a  potter  who 
was  gaping  at  the  visitors  as  though  he  had  never  seen  a 
foreigner,  "  Shomi,  make  a  number  sixteen  flange-topped 
vase." 

The  man  took  a  lump  of  clay  in  his  right  hand,  and  starting 
the  disk  with  his  left,  threw  some  of  the  paste  upon  the  appa- 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  179 

ratus  and  in  a  few  moments  had  formed  the  bottom  of  a  vase. 
As  he  built  this  up,  it  became  necessary  for  him  to  use  both 
his  hands,  whereupon  he  dexterously  moved  the  wheel  with 
his  feet.  Little  by  little,  the  vase  rose  until  it  was  about 
eight  inches  in  height,  when  he  finished  it  off  by  trimming  the 
rim  with  a  wooden  instrument,  having  done  which,  he  rested. 

:?  That,"  said  the  proprietor,  "  is  the  ordinary  way  of  mak- 
ing any  piece  of  pottery.  For  fine  specimens  we  employ 
wooden  cores,  made  in  sections  and  fastened  together,  these 
being  removed  as  soon  as  the  paste  is  set.  If  handles  or  other 
ornamentations  are  required,  we  mould  and  fix  them  to  the 
article  with  a  little  wet  clay.  You  will  observe  that  the  pot- 
ter's tools  consist  of  the  wheel  and  a  few  pieces  of  wood,  with 
which  he  models  and  trims  the  articles.  Sometimes  we  cover 
a  vase  with  raised  figures  of  flowers,  et  cetera;  at  others  coat  it 
with  a  fine  kind  of  clay,  to  give  the  article  a  good  finish." 

He  showed  them  various  pieces  in  the  process  of  manufac- 
ture, then  conducted  them  up  the  hill  to  the  kilns,  which  were 
ranged  in  sets  of  three,  one  above  the  other. 

!?  We  build  them  thus  to  economize  wood,"  he  remarked. 
'  The  heat  from  the  lower  oven  passes  into  the  others,  so  when 
the  first  is  sufficiently  fired,  the  second  is  red  hot  and  requires 
very  little  more  fuel  to  complete  the  work." 

They  peeped  into  one  of  the  kilns,  which  was  cooling,  and 
saw  that  many  of  the  vases  had  leaned  over  and  some  had  top- 
pled upon  others. 

"  Ah !  "  sighed  the  manufacturer,  "  that  is  where  we  lose  so 
much.  While  the  pieces  are  burning  they  sag  and  either  tum- 
ble over  or  come  out  crooked.  I  will  now  show  you  how  our 
artists  work." 

The  visitors  were  conducted  to  a  row  of  houses,  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  decorators,  each  of  whom  was  assisted  by  an 


i8o 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


apprentice  or  member  of  his  family,  who,  like  himself,  squatted 
on  the  floor  and  painted  without  any  pattern.  The  colors 
were  all  mineral  and  somewhat  difficult  to  work,  notwithstand- 
ing which  the  men  manipulated  their  brushes  with  great  dex- 
terity and  rapidity.  Some  pieces  merely  received  a  few 


GAKU   DANCE. 


touches,  and,  lo!  a  graphic,  sketchy  outline;  others  had  been 
for  weeks  under  the  decorators'  hands. 

"Whom  does  that  person  you  are  painting  represent?" 
asked  Fitz  of  one  of  the  artists. 

'That  is  a  great  actor  of  the  old  court,  dancing  the  Gaku? 
said  the  man.  :r  We  often  use  these  subjects  because  foreign- 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  l8l 

ers  like  them.  You  will  observe  the  costume  is  very  different 
from  what  we  wear  nowadays  and  that  the  performer  wears  his 
hair  in  the  foreign  fashion." 

The  boy  examined  the  painting  minutely,  then  murmured, 
:?  We  do  not  shave  the  backs  of  our  heads.  If  it  were  not  for 
that  and  the  ears,  the  face  would  look  very  much  like  that 
of  old  Deacon  Pillsbury." 

"Is  he  one  of  your  great  warriors?  "  respectfully  inquired 
the  artist. 

"  No,"  was  the  quick  reply,  "  he  is  the  tax-collector  at 
Cromlech." 

The  visitors  were  next  conducted  into  the  glazing-shed, 
where  they  saw  the  various  articles  of  pottery  and  porcelain 
coated  with  a  composition  made  of  feldspar  and  leached  wood 
ashes. 

:?  These  are  put  in  a  kiln  and  refired,"  said  the  proprietor. 
"  In  some  cases  we  give  them  a  second  and  even  a  third  glaz- 
ing, but  that  is  only  when  we  make  very  old  ware.  Please 
come  with  me  and  I  will  show  you  some  of  our  specimens." 

They  entered  store-room  after  store-room  rilled  with  pot- 
tery and  porcelain  of  every  kind,  made  for  the  ordinary  trade 
in  the  States,  but,  as  he  had  truly  said,  "though  many  of  the 
pieces  were  colored  and  toned  to  make  them  look  old,  no  ex- 
pert would  have  been  deceived  by  the  very  best  of  them." 

c?  What  is  the  price  of  this  Satsuma  koro "  (incense 
burner)  ?  inquired  Johnnie,  pointing  to  a  tripod  vase  of  yel- 
lowish ware,  covered  with  a  cream-colored  crackle  glaze, 
and  surmounted  with  a  figure  of  a  lion  of  the  same  material. 

:?  Two  hundred  yen  "  (dollars),  calmly  answered  the  man. 

"What!"  ejaculated  the  boy.  :r  Why,  I  can  buy  better 
pieces  than  that  in  the  States  for  a  hundred  and  fifty  dol- 
lars." 


182 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"How  much  will  you  give?"  asked  the  unabashed  manu- 
facturer. 

"I  do  not  wish  to  purchase,"  answered  Johnnie.  "It  is  a 
very  handsome  vase,  and  I  have  many  friends  who  are  buying 
such  things,  so  I  thought  I  would  ask  you  its  value." 

"Well,  I  will  let  it  go  for  a  hundred  yen,  if  I  can  sell  it 

soon,"  said  the  manufac- 
turer. "I  hope  you  will 
recommend  my  establish- 
ment." 

:f  What  does  the  picture 
on  that  vase  represent?" 
said  Sallie. 

"  That  is  one  of  our 
great  actors,  in  his  cele- 
brated character  of  Goro 
Sketsune,"  answered  the 
guide.  "  He  is  in  the  act 
of  delivering  his  final  speech. 
The  akaria  mochi  is  hold- 
ing a  candle  so  that  the 
audience  can  watch  the 

expression  of  his  master's  features.  That  was  made  to  the 
order  of  a  foreign  lady,  who  has  gone  to  Osaka.  We  never 
decorate  our  vases  with  such  subjects." 

"  I  think  we  have  seen  enough,"  said  Sallie  to  Oto.  "  It  is 
noon  and  we  had  better  take  our  leave."  Turning  to  the  pro- 
prietor she  added, —  "  I  thank  you  very  much  for  your  court- 
esy. We  have  to  go  to  Meguro." 

The  man  presented  her  with  a  dish  which  he  had  made 
himself,  and  after  expressing  his  obligation  at  the  honor  of 
their  visit,  saw  them  to  the  gate  and  bade  them  farewell. 


MODERN    SATSUMA   INCENSE   BURNER. 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS. 


1 83 


"  I  propose  we  go  to  a  restaurant  and  have  lunch,"  said 
Oto. 

"  I  am  willing,"  said  Sallie,  "  for  I  am  very  tired  and  some- 
what annoyed  with  those  forgeries.  The  proprietor  was  quite 
right  when  he  said  no  person  of  any  judgment  could  mistake 
even  the  finest  modern  ware  for  the  beautiful  ancient  pieces." 


AN   ACTOR   AND    HIS    CANDLE-BEARER. 


The  party  went  to  a  charming  place  in  Shiba,  and  while 
they  were  waiting  for  their  food  to  be  cooked,  Mrs.  Nambo 
said  to  Sallie,  "  Have  you  ever  heard  the  story  of  Ikiu?  " 

"No,"  answered  the  girl;  "  I  would  be  pleased  to  do  so." 

The  old  lady  corrected  her  attitude,  that  is,  sat  up  straight 
on  her  heels,  coughed,  glanced  downward,  and  said, — 

"The  Shojo  (chief  priest)  of  the  temple  of  Dai  Toku,  had 
a  very  beautiful  old  incense-burner,  which  he  considered  the 
most  valuable  of  his  treasures.  Whenever  he  went  upon  a 


184  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

journey,  he  instructed  the  bozu  not  to  touch  the  koro,  saying,  — 
f  If  that  were  broken,  I  should  lose  what  could  never  be  re- 
placed.' 

"  One  day,  when  he  was  away  visiting  the  head  of  the 
church,  some  country  bozu  came  to  the  temple  to  see  their 
friends.  The  priests,  on  duty,  forgetting  their  instructions,  not 
only  exhibited  the  koro,  but  allowed  their  guests  to  handle  it. 
Alas!  one  of  the  party  clumsily  dropped  the  treasure  upon  the 
floor. 

?What  shall  we  do!     What  shall  we  do!'  cried  the  un- 
happy bozu.     ?  The  Shojo  will  never  forgive  us.' 

;c  While  they  were  lamenting  and  praying,  a  young  novice, 
named  Ikiu,  entered  the  apartment,  and  on  learning  the  cause 
of  their  agony,  said,  — 

c  Do  not  be  grieved,  I  can  make  this  all  right.' 
'How?'  they  demanded.      'You  cannot  put  the  koro  to- 
gether again.' 

rYou  will  see,'  he  answered.     'Just  leave  it  all  to  me  and 
do  not  feel  any  more  anxiety  about  the  matter.' 

"  He  picked  up  a  fragment  of  the  porcelain  and  placed  it 
in  his  sleeve,  then  knelt  and  repeated  his  prayers  until  he 
heard  the  cry,  'The  Shojo  is  at  the  gate,'  when  he  rose  and 
proceeded  to  the  portal. 

"As  soon  as  the  superior  alighted  from  his  kago,  Ikiu 
prostrated  himself,  bowed  his  head  to  the  ground,  and  said, — 

?  Holy  father,  all  living  things  —  what?" 
f  The  venerable  man  regarded  him  for  a  few  seconds,  then 
gravely  replied, — 
«<  Must  die!' 

"The  boy  thought  awhile,  after  which  he  said, — 
c  All  fragile  things  — what?" 
f  Must  be  broken,'  sadly  responded  the  old  priest. 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  185 

"  On  hearing  these  words,  Ikiu,  who  still  remained  with 
his  face  close  to  the  ground,  fumbled  in  the  sleeve  of  his  robe, 
and  produced  the  fragment  of  pottery.  Holding  it  above  his 
head,  he  said,  r  This  is!  '  (broken). 

:?  The  boy's  knowledge  and  wit  so  pleased  his  superior 
that  he  not  only  forgave  the  persons  who  had  destroyed  his 
treasure,  but  advanced  Ikiu  several  degrees,  and  ever  after- 
wards took  a  great  interest  in  him." 

Mrs.  Nambo  paused,  bowed,  and  said  in  her  gentle  way, — 

:f  That  is  the  story  of  Ikiu;   what  do  you  think  of  it?" 

tc  I  think  he  was  real  smart,"  said  Fitz,  answering  for  the 
rest.  "  Here  comes  our  lunch." 

When  they  had  partaken  of  the  meal,  they  entered  their 
jin-riki-sha  and  started  for  Meguro,  en  route  passing  through 
quite  a  rural  district,  containing  rice  swamps,  in  which  women, 
wading  knee  deep,  were  bedding  out  the  young  plants. 

*  What  hard  work!  "  said  Johnnie.  :?Just  imagine,  every 
spear  of  the  crop  has  to  be  replanted  in  that  way!  If  our  peo- 
ple had  to  raise  their  bread  as  yours  do  they  would  starve.  I 
guess  you  would  not  get  American  women  to  wade  for  days  in 
mud." 

"  If  our  people  did  not  do  that,  they  would  starve,"  quietly 
answered  Oto.  "  I  do  not  think  it  is  much  worse  than  cran- 
berry picking." 

K  I  never  tried  the  latter,"  said  Johnnie.  ?t  Guess  you  are 
right,  doctor." 

Although  each  jin-riki-sha  was  drawn  by  two  men,  they 
took  an  hour  going  to  Meguro,  on  arriving  at  which  place  the 
party  gave  their  servants  money  for  refreshments  and  pro- 
ceeded to  see  the  irises. 

'The  valley  of  Meguro  is  celebrated  for  its  temples,"  said 
Mrs.  Nambo.  w  I  think  we  ought  to  go  to  that  of  Taku-yaku- 


1 86 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


shi,  the  hondon{  chief  idol)  was  carved  by  Ji-kaku  Dai-shi,  a 
thousand  years  ago.  The  saint  made  it  in  order  that  he  might 
be  cured  of  a  disease  of  the  eyes,  and  took  it  with  him  to 


PLANTING   OUT   RICE. 

China,  where  he  went  to  study  the  pure  doctrine  of  Bud- 
dhism. On  his  return  voyage  a  violent  storm  arose,  during 
which  Ji-kaku  prayed  earnestly.  The  god  revealed  himself 
and  commanded  the  saint  to  throw  his  image  into  the  sea. 


AMONG    THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  187 

When  this  was  done  the  tempest  suddenly  ceased  and  the  ship 
sailed  straight  for  the  harbor.  The  saint,  who  deeply  regretted 
the  loss  of  his  image,  petitioned  the  deity  to  restore  it  to  him. 
One  night  he  dreamed  that  the  god  would  reveal  himself 
at  Hirando  in  Hizen,  so  Ji-kaku  at  once  set  out  for  that  port. 
On  reaching  the  shore,  he  saw  an  enormous  cuttle-fish  coming 
toward  him  with  the  image  on  its  back." 

"How  very  interesting!"  exclaimed  Sallie,  while  Oto 
nervously  rubbed  his  fingers  and  looked  uncomfortable,  as 
though  he  feared  Fitz  would  express  the  amusement  he  felt  at 
the  story. 

Mrs.  Nambo,  utterly  unconscious  of  her  son's  anxiety, 
beamed  sweetly  on  Sallie,  and  said,  "  The  saint,  in  gratitude 
for  the  miracle,  founded  this  temple.  If  you  have  any  ailment, 
will  come  here  and  make  an  offering,  and  will  abstain  from 
eating  cuttle-fish,  you  will  be  cured.  Would  you  like  to  go 
into  the  building,  O  Sallie  San?" 

"  I  do  not  think  we  have  time,  to-day,"  said  the  girl,  who 
sympathized  with  Oto.  "  I  will  come  here  with  you  some 
other  time." 

Fitz  was  very  good,  and  contrived  to  smother  his  merri- 
ment, contenting  himself  by  saying,  r  I  hope  you  will  let  me 
accompany  you,  I  want  to  hear  the  rest  of  that  cuttle-fish 
story." 

They  went  to  a  tea-house,  and,  after  refreshing  themselves, 
inquired  the  way  to  the  iris-beds,  which  were  reached  after  a 
short  walk. 

The  flowers  were  very  large,  and  beautifully  variegated, 
and  the  sight  was  well  worth  the  journey. 

"We  have  nothing  like  this  at  home,"  said  Sallie.  "Why, 
the  blossoms  appear  to  be  double,  and  they  are  such  lovely 
colors,  —  purple,  red,  white,  blue,  yellow,  pink,  striped,  and  all 
manner  of  hybrids." 


1 88  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

There  was  a  large  crowd  of  visitors,  who,  like  the  Jewetts, 
thoroughly  enjoyed  the  glorious  flowers. 

About  four  o'clock,  Mrs.  Nambo  said,  "  Oto,  to-day  is  the 
festival  of  Sui-jin.  If  we  go  down  to  Shini-gawa  and  take 
a  sail  boat,  we  can  cross  to  Fouka-gawa  in  time  to  see  the 
Mikoshi  carried  into  the  bay." 

"What  is  that? "  asked  Fitz. 

"  It  is  this,"  she  said.  *  The  priest  blesses  a  mirror,  takes 
it  from  the  temple,  and  puts  it  in  the  Mikoshi.  Then  the  men 
who  belong  to  the  sodality  raise  the  ark  upon  their  shoulders 
and  carry  it  all  round  the  city.  At  sunset  they  rush  with  it 
into  the  water  on  the  Fouka-gawa  side  of  the  bay." 

"Do  let  us  go  to  see  the  fun,"  said  Fitz. 

The  jin-riki-sha  were  summoned,  and  they  bade  the  men 
take  them  down  to  Goten-yama,  where  they  secured  a  boat  and 
were  soon  sailing  for  the  opposite  shore. 

As  they  neared  Fouka-gawa,  they  heard  shouting,  and  saw 
the  Mikoshi  being  conveyed  along  the  muddy  strand,  and 
heard  the  bearers  yelling,"  Tot-choi!  Wat-choi!" 

The  ark  swayed  from  side  to  side,  the  gilded  huoiuo 
(heavenly  bird)  on  the  top  flapped  its  wings  as  though  about 
to  essay  a  flight,  and  the  drunken  crowd  screamed  and  splashed 
like  a  lot  of  schoolboys  out  for  a  frolic. 

"That  will  sober  them,"  said  the  kindly  lady.  "Ah!  in  a 
year  or  two  more,  all  these  ancient  customs  will  be  abolished. 
They  say  the  Mikado  intends  to  issue  an  edict  to  that  effect. 
It  is  a  very  interesting  sight,  is  it  not?" 

"  I  would  rather  see  the  wrestlers,"  said  Fitz.  "  Come, 
Oto,  tell  the  boatman  to  run  us  up  the  Sumida,  and  land  us  at 
the  nearest  place  where  we  can  take  jin-riki-sha  for  home. 
Sallie  looks  tired,  and  we  must  not  keep  her  out  too  late." 

"Won't  you  go  home  with  us?"  asked  Mrs.  Nambo.     "I 


190  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

have  ordered  dinner  to  be  prepared  for  you.  You  can  send  a 
message  to  your  honorable  parents  and  have  your  jin-riki-sha 
join  you." 

Sallie  assented  to  this,  and  on  landing  they  proceeded  to 
Mrs.  Nambo's  house,  where  they  thoroughly  enjoyed  an 
excellent  Japanese  repast,  which  lasted  until  eight  o'clock  in 
the  evening. 

When  they  were  about  to  leave,  their  hostess  took  Sallie 
aside  and  gave  her  a  package,  saying,  "  My  daughter,  I  hope 
you  will  not  be  offended  with  this  little  present.  Please  read 
these  books,  they  will  enable  you  to  attain  perfection  and  pos- 
sibly be  a  benefit  to  your  honorable  parents  and  brothers." 

The  girl  took  the  gift,  not  quite  understanding  what  Mrs. 
Nambo  meant. 

"  Saionara"  said  Oto.  "Next  month  we  will  visit  the  silk 
weavers,  and  go  to  see  the  lotuses  in  Uyeno  pond." 

As  soon  as  Sallie  reached  home,  she  opened  her  present, 
and  read  on  the  title  page  of  the  first  book,  "Sixteen  Heavenly 
Blossoms  (Lives  of  the  Sixteen  beloved  Disciples  of  Bud- 
dha)." 

Upon  discovering  this  she  bit  her  lips  and  returned  the 
volumes  to  their  wrapper. 

:?  What  is  the  matter,  my  child?"  inquired  her  mother. 

"  I  love  Mrs.  Nambo,  she  is  a  dear  old  lady,"  said  the 
indignant  girl.  "But  I  do  dislike  to  go  there  because  she  is 
always  referring  to  Buddhism,  and  giving  me  these  absurd 
works  about  the  Rakan  (disciples).  I  should  think  that  Oto 
ought  to  tell  her  that  we  can  never  believe  in  such  nonsense." 

"  I  do  not  see  anything  to  get  mad  about,  Sallie  Jewett," 
said  Fitz.  :?When  Oto  was  in  America,  he  never  went  out 
but  what  somebody  buttonholed  him  and  tried  to  convert  him 
to  his  individual  way  of  thinking.  As  to  tracts  and  good 


AMONG   THE    PORCELAIN-MAKERS.  19! 

books,  why  he  left  nearly  a  ton  of  them  in  his  room,  for  the 
servants.     You  can  do  the  same  thing,  can't  she,  mother?" 

Mrs.  Jewett  averted  her  face  and  did  not  reply,  so  the 
Professor  said,  "My  children,  we  should  always  do  unto  others 
as  we  would  be  done  by." 


192  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


CHAPTER  VIL 

A  CONCERT  AT  THE  COLLEGE  OF  MUSIC. 

"  The  practice  of  religion  is  always  pleasantest,  when  it  can  be  most  easily  accom- 
plished. 

"In  July,  even  the  rats  of  Tokio  say  to  their  friends,  it  is  time  we  went  on  a  pil- 
grimage." 

MY  gracious!"  moaned  Fitz,  as  he  rose  one  morning  at  day- 
break. "  Oh,  I  had  such  a  dream  last  night,  Johnnie!  " 

"  Perhaps  you  felt  the  earthquake,"  said  the  latter. 

"Earthquake!"  ejaculated  his  brother.  "Phew,  now  I 
understand  the  meaning  of  my  dream!" 

"  There  was  a  big  shock  and  several  little  ones,"  answered 
Johnnie.  "  I  felt  my  bed  move,  then  heard  mother  call  out  to 
father:  '  Do  not  bother  about  that  seismological  apparatus, 
professor,  but  find  the  matches,  the  lamp  has  gone  out.'  As 
soon  as  the  shocks  were  over,  father  and  I  examined  the  disk 
of  the  machine,  and  found  that  the  earthquake  had  been  a  very 
severe  one.  He  was  so  delighted  at  the  success  of  his  mech- 
anism that  he  rushed  off  to  Professor  Mac,  whom  he  found  in 
a  high  state  of  excitement,  and  who  said, r  Hech,  yon  was  a  very 
fine  earthquake;  was  it  nae,  mon.  My  apparatus  registered 
every  shock,  and  is  a  grand  success.' ' 

"Why  does  Mac  talk  such  queer  English?"  asked  Fitz. 

"  He  is  a  Scotchman,"  answered  his  brother.  "What  were 
you  saying  about  your  dream  ?  " 

The  boy,  who  was  looking  out  of  the  window,  replied,  "It 
must  have  been  a  pretty  bad  shake  up.  I  see  the  sha-kan-ya 
(plasterers)  are  at  work  on  the  fire-proof  house  over  there;  it 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC. 


193 


is  cracked  all  over.  An  earthquake  is  to  those  fellows  very 
much  what  a  hard  frost  is  to  our  plumbers.  Listen  to  them, 
they  are  talking  about  it." 

"  I  want  to  hear  your  dream,"  said  Johnnie. 


PLASTERERS   AT   WORK   AFTER   AN   EARTHQUAKE. 

"  I  will  tell  you  presently,"  was  the  reply.  "  It  was  very 
funny.  By  the  way,  I  ought  to  make  a  seismological  appara- 
tus; I  think  I  could  invent  something  original." 

><r  Those    machines   are    becoming  too  common,"  returned 

O  * 

Johnnie.     "Besides,  nobody  at  home  would  appreciate  them. 
We  never  have  shakes  that  amount  to  anything." 


194  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

At  breakfast  Johnnie  referred  to  his  brother's  dream,  on 
hearing  which,  Sallie  said,  "  Oh,  do  tell  us,  Fitz.  Did  you 
really  sleep  through  that  earthquake?" 

The  merry  lad  nodded  his  head  and  said,  in  a  very  solemn 
manner,  "  I  saw  it,  Sallie  Jewett.  You  all  know  the  Japanese 
believe  that  their  beloved  islands  rest  on  the  back  of  a  cat-fish, 
and  that,  when  the  creature  wags  its  tail,  we  get  shocks  of  the 
earthquake." 

:f  Yes,"  said  the  Professor  approvingly,  "such  is  the  popular 
belief." 

"  Well,  I  saw  the  cat-fish,"  said  Fitz.  "  It  is  no  good  look- 
ing so  amazed,  Sallie.  I  am  not  out  of  my  senses.  This  was 
my  dream.  First  of  all,  I  was  gazing  on  Tokio  in  winter, 
through  branches  of  beautiful  white  and  red  plum-blossoms, 
from  which  hung  many  poems  and  a  mask  of  the  god-Fox. 
The  city  and  the  peak  of  glorious  Fuji-yama  beyond  were  cov- 
ered with  snow,  which  contrasted  charmingly  with  the  flowers 
of  the  ume.  As  I  was  looking  I  saw  a  tremendous  monster 
appear  in  the  sky,  and,  on  regarding  it  closely,  found  it  was  a 
gigantic  cat-fish,  ridden  by  Yebis,  the  smiling  god,  who  used 
the  fish's  feelers  as  reins,  and  whipped  it  vigorously  with  his 
bamboo  fishing-rod.  As  it  approached  me,  I  saw  poor  old 
Fuku-roku-jin  (the  god  of  longevity)  seated  on  the  flattened 
tail  of  the  fish,  holding  up  his  hands  in  fright.*  The  purple 
cloth  was  nearly  off  his  venerable  head,  and  he  was  shouting 
with  fear.  Presently  he  called  to  Yebis,  saying,  f  Honorable 
brother,  do  not  drive  so  fast.  If  I  have  much  of  this,  I  shall 
tumble  off.' 

rYeh!'  said  the  smiling  one,  regarding  his  comrade  mis- 
chievously. r  Don't  lose  your  balance,  dear  boy.  You  are  a 
long  distance  above  the  earth,  and  if  you  were  to  tumble,  you 

*   Vide  illuminated  cover. 


A  CONCERT  AT  THE  COLLEGE  OF  MUSIC. 


'95 


would   crack  your  beautiful  skull.     Hold  on!  I  am  going  to 
make  this  cat-fish  go  twice  as  fast  as  I  have  done.' 

:rOh!'  cried  Fuku-roku-jin.  ?  Have  mercy  on  me! 
When  you  invited  me  to  take  a  ride,  I  did  not  expect  you 
were  going  to  harness  the  earthquake-fish.  I  am  completely 
shaken  up.  I  beseech  you  to  descend  somewhere  in  the  city, 
and  have  the  rest  of  your 
amusement  by  yourself.' 

"  Instead  of  replying, 
Yebis  whipped  up  the 
fish,  shouted  f  Yeh !  yeh ! 
yeh! '  and  vanished. 

"Then  I  thought  I 
felt  something  shaking 
me,  but  did  not,  until  I 
awoke,  know  there  had 
been  an  earthquake." 

"  It  was  a  wonderful 
dream,"  said  the  Profes- 
sor, regarding  his  son 
askance. 

:?  Yes,"     quietly     re- 
marked     Mrs.     Jewett, 
"  Fitz  has  an  exceedingly  fertile  imagination.     His  story  of  the 
earthquake-fish  and  the  two  gods  is  very  amusing." 

"  I  won't  tell  my  dreams  again  if  I  am  not  believed,"  said 
the  boy.  "  I  dreamed  lots  of  things  last  night,  among  others 
that  I  saw  two  foxes  in  the  clouds,  one  playing  on  the 
samisen  and  the  other  dancing.  Was  it  not  strange,  Sallie?" 

"I  think  you  have  lately  eaten  too  much  bota-mochi  (cake), 
brother,"  was  the  reply.  "  There  is  some  one  at  the  gate,  per- 
haps it  is  Oto." 


YEBIS,  BROTHER  OF  THE  SUN,  GOD  OF  MARKETS. 


196  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  boys  hurried  to  meet  their  friend,  who,  on  seeing  them 
said, — 

"  The  weather  is  not  too  warm,  so  I  think  we  had  better 
take  a  walk  to-day.  I  have  something  important  to  tell  you. 
My  parents  desire  to  visit  Nara,  Kioto  and  the  sacred  shrines 
of  Ise,  and  wish  to  know  whether  you  will  honor  us  with  your 
company.  We  think  of  going  to  Kobe  by  steamer,  from 
thence  to  Osaka  and  Kioto  by  rail,  after  which  we  shall  take 
jin-riki-sha  and  make  the  journey  to  Ise.  You  must  promise 
to  come." 

"Is  Sallie  to  go?"  asked  Fitz. 

"Most  certainly,"  said  the  doctor.  "I  am  instructed  to  in- 
vite your  parents  and  all  the  family." 

f  That  would  be  jolly,"  said  Fitz.  "  I  like  going  to  sacred 
places,  it  is  such  fun.  Come  right  in,  Oto,  and  deliver  your 
message  to  father  and  mother." 

The  Professor  and  Mrs.  Jewett  agreed  to  accept  the  invita- 
tion, which  was  really  intended  as  some  little  return  for  the 
hospitality  shown  by  them  to  Oto  when  he  was  in  the  States. 

"  I  shall  only  be  able  to  spend  a  few  hours  with  you  to- 
day," said  the  young  man,  as  his  friends  clustered  around  him. 
"What  shall  we  do?" 

"  Let  us  go  out  and  see  the  sights  near  the  yashiki?  an- 
swered Sallie.  "  It  is  always  interesting  to  watch  the  peddlers 
plying  their  trades." 

"One  moment,  daughter,"  said  Mrs.  Jewett,  "you  must  be 
back  by  noon.  Our  good  friend,  Professor  Mason,  has  asked 
us  to  go  over  to  the  College  of  Music  and  hear  a  concert 
which  will  be  given  by  his  pupils  at  two  o'clock." 

"I  am  so  pleased,"  answered  Sallie.  "We  will  be  sure  to 
return  in  time.  Now,  boys,  I  am  ready." 

As  they  walked  through   the   grounds,  they  saw  a  kaido 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC. 


I97 


kan-ten    uri    (roadside    sea- weed    isinglass    seller),  noticing 
whom,  Fitz  said, — 

w  I  always  like  to  try  everything.     Let  us  stop  and   buy 
some  of  this  stuff." 

The  man's  establishment  consisted  of  two  oblong  frames 
made  of  light 
wood,  enclosing 
baskets  of  split 
bamboo,  open  on 
one  side,  which 
contained  his 
stock  in  trade. 

"Give  us 
some  kan-ten" 
said  Fitz. 

The  fellow 
grinned  and 
bowed,  then  pro- 
ducing a  bowl 
from  one  of  the 
baskets,  took  a 
strange  -  looking 
apparatus,  say- 
ing,— 

"  Honorable 
gentlemen     from 
afar,      you      will 
observe    this    in- 
strument  is    very  clean;    it    is    made  of  wood    and  the  bot- 
tom  is  pierced  with  small    holes.      It  is  filled  with    kan-ten 
which  has  set  hard.     I  now  take  this  rod,  you  see  it  is  pro- 
vided with  a  butt  that  just  fits  the  inside  of  the  &  an- ten-holder. 


SELLER   OF   SEAWEED   ISINGLASS. 


198  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

I  force  the  piston  in,  when,  behold  the  delicacy  rushes  out  in 
silvery  threads  and  falls  into  the  bowl  ready  for  you  to  eat." 

He  handed  the  vessel  to  Fitz,  who,  after  tasting  it,  made  a 
grimace  and  said, — 

"Won't  you  have  some,  Sallie?     It  is  salty." 

"Not  for  me,"  she  replied.  "I  never  was  fond  of  messes. 
You  had  better  give  it  to  that  small  boy  who  is  watching  us 
so  intently." 

They  paid  the  man  and  walked  on,  leaving  the  child  suck- 
ing down  the  kan-ten  in  a  manner  that  showed  how  highly  he 
appreciated  it. 

As  they  emerged  through  the  lower  gate,  they  saw  a  uye- 
kiya  (florist). 

"  Say,"  cried  Fitz,  "what  has  he  in  those  pots?" 

"Morning-glories,"  answered  Oto.  "He  is  persuading 
that  medical  student  to  buy  a  few  plants  to  adorn  his  room.  I 
know  the  fellow,  he  is  an  old  hand  at  the  business.  I  have 
bought  many  a  pot  of  flowers  of  him." 

The  purchaser,  who  was  quite  a  dandy,  wore  a  girl's  sailor 
hat  perched  on  the  top  of  his  head  and  carried  a  cotton  um- 
brella in  a  very  jaunty  manner. 

:r  Ten  sen  for  that,"  he  said,  glancing  scornfully  down  at 
the  uye-kiya,  who  squatted  in  a  respectful  position.  "  Do  you 
take  me  for  a  foreigner?  I  will  not  buy  your  rubbish." 

The  dealer  sucked  in  his  breath  and  said,  in  a  satirical  tone, 
'Take  you  for  a  foreigner?  No,  indeed,  I  should  never  im- 
agine such  a  thing.  The  honorable  gentlemen-from-afar 
always  give  me  the  price  I  ask,  and  do  not  squabble  about  a 
few  rin  (mills)." 

They  left  the  student  haggling  with  the  florist,  who,  while 
extolling  his  wares,  did  not  hesitate  to  make  many  sly  hits  at 
the  expense  of  his  customer. 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC. 


I99 


"Here  is  another  of  those  kori-ya"  (street  ice-seller),  said 
Johnnie,  pointing  to  a  man,  clad  in  a  loud-patterned  kimono, 
who  was  standing  by  the  side  of  a  neat  little  stall,  under  the 
awning  of  which  was  a  framed  sign  inscribed  kori-midzu 
(ice-water).  The  counter  was  ornamented  with  an  octagonal 


FLORIST. 


bowl  containing  a  little  rockery,  from  whence  sprouted  young 
rice,  a  symbol  of  the  month;  near  it  were  some  clumsy-looking 
tumblers,  and,  upon  a  raised  shelf  behind,  a  blue  and  white 
bowl  containing  cracked  ice.  On  his  left  was  a  low  bench, 
furnished  with  a  mat,  for  the  accommodation  of  his  customers. 


200  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  These  kori-ya  are  a  new  institution,"  said  Oto.  w  A  few 
years  ago  none  of  our  people  used  ice  in  any  form,  now,  as 
soon  as  the  weather  grows  warm,  these  vendors  are  to  be 
found  on  every  street-corner.  Some  quack  has  asserted  that 


ICE-WATER    SELLER. 


it  is  good  to  drink  ice-water,  as  it  corrects  the  hot  principle." 
While  he  was  speaking,  a  young  clerk  came   swaggering 

along,  and  said  to  the  man,  "Hurry  up!  I  want  to  cool  myself 

quickly." 

He  kicked  off  his  clogs,  sprang    upon    the  bench,  seated 


VENDOR   OF    HATS. 


202  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

himself  in  the  peculiar  Japanese  fashion  on  his  heels,  and 
waited  for  the  beverage. 

"  Ice-water,  one  cent,"  drawled  Fitz,  imitating  a  well- 
known  character,  who  vends  that  luxury  on  the  streets  of  Bos- 
ton. "Would  not  that  sight  warm  the  hearts  of  our  total 
abstainers?  I  see  you  are  adopting  our  civilization,  Oto." 

rrYes,  and  our  hats,"  said  Johnnie,  looking  toward  a  boshi- 
urij  who  knelt  upon  a  piece  of  matting  on  the  other  side  of  the 
road. 

"Suppose  we  go  over  and  price  his  bean-pots?"  said  Fitz. 
"It  is  capital  fun." 

The  hat-seller,  a  meek  youth  of  nineteen,  was  chatting  with 
a  gentleman  dressed  in  silk,  who,  on  seeing  the  foreigners, 
bowed  politely  and  walked  away.  The  boshi-uri  respectfully 
saluted  the  new  arrivals,  and  said,  pointing  to  some  clumsy- 
looking  head-coverings  which  rested  on  two  boxes  behind  him. 

"Do  your  honorable  excellencies  require  any  nice  boshi?" 

r?  Where  are  those  made?"  demanded  Johnnie. 

:rThey  are  not  imported,"  suavely  answered  the  man. 

"  I  should  think  not,"  said  Fitz,  with  a  chuckle,  adding  in 
English,  "  Sallie,  did  you  ever  see  such  curiosities?" 

*  Yes,  on  a  scare-crow,"  she  quietly  replied.  rf  They  are  a 
very  strange  shape,  are  they  not?  " 

Oto  smiled,  and  said,  "  They  are  what  you  call  in  America, 
r  shocking  bad  hats.'  I  never  could  understand  where  our 

£j 

people  got  their  models." 

"  I  know,"  said  Fitz.  '  Two  hundred  years  ago  they 
copied  those  used  by  the  Dutch,  and  have  never  changed  the 
style."  Turning  to  the  man,  he  asked,  "  How  much  do  you 
charge  for  your  wares  ?  " 

"For  a  superior  quality  of  taka-bo  (stove-pipe),  two  yen 
(dollars),  for  lowest,  fifty  sen.  For  a  superior  quality  of 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC.  203 

straw  stove-pipe,  two  yen,  fifty  sen;  lowest,  fifty  sen.  Derby 
hats  are  about  one  yen,  fifty  sen." 

?  You  call  those  wash-bowls  Derbys,  do  you?"  said  John- 
nie. "  I  am  sure  I  did  not  recognize  them." 

"  Then  you  do  not  want  any  of  these  ?  "  inquired  the  dealer. 
"  If  you  will  tell  me  where  you  live,  I  will  bring  you  some 
elegant  Yankee  hats.  My  partner  has  them  of  all  prices,  from 
ten  yen  down  to  two  yen,  fifty  sen.  We  have  kept  them  for  a 
number  of  years,  and  he  is  anxious  to  get  his  money  back." 

The  Jewett  boys  said  they  did  not  think  the  antique  articles 
would  suit  them;  then  continued  their  walk  until  they  came  to 
a  ura-naisha  (fortune-teller)  revealing  the  future  to  an  inno- 
cent-looking countryman  who  stood  before  him  like  a  soldier 
at  attention. 

"Watch  that  fellow,"  said  Oto,  "he  is  an  old  rascal." 

On  the  right  of  the  ura-naisha  was  a  bamboo  vase  con- 
taining fifty  little  rods  called  zei-chiku,  and  before  him,  six 
pieces  of  black  wood,  like  long  dominoes,  called  sangi,  which 
were  divided  by  two  red  streaks.  He  was  very  mysterious 
and  deliberate  in  his  manner,  and  was  not  at  all  disconcerted 
by  the  presence  of  the  foreign  spectators. 

r  You  say  you  want  to  know  whether  you  are  going  'to  have 
large  crops?" 

The  countryman  nodded. 

:tVery  good,  very  good,"  said  the  fortune-teller.  "Give 
me  five  tempo  to  begin  with." 

"  Here  is  the  money,"  said  a  Tokio  boy,  who  accompanied 
the  rustic  and  carried  his  purse.  "  My  cousin  wants  to  know 
three  things." 

The  fortune-teller  took  the  coins  and  said, —  "You 
stand  back  and  do  not  breathe  in  my  ear.  If  you  do 
you  will  spoil  your  relative's  luck." 


204 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


He  then  took  the  rods  from  the  vase,  rolled  the  bundle  be- 
tween his  hands  and  raised  it  to  his  forehead,  after  which  he 
withdrew  one  splint  and  placed  it  on  the  book  upon  his  left, 
saying,  — 

"  I  now  select  a  portion  of  these,"  suiting  the  action  to 
the  word,  "and  reject  the  others.  I  count  those  I  keep  by 
fours,  and  according  to  the  number  left,  move  one  of  the  sangi 
in  a  certain  direction.  This  process  I  repeat  twice,  counting 


JUNKS  BECALMED  IN  THE  GULF  OF  OSAKA. 

them  by  threes  and  twos,  and  moving  the  sangi  according  to 
the  results.  The  combination  indicates  a  certain  number,  hav- 
ing ascertained  which  I  consult  this  book  and  learn  from  it  the 
reply  to  your  question." 

He  said  this  for  the  benefit  of  the  Americans,  knowing 
very  well  that  his  customer  understood  his  method  of  working. 

"Are  you  obliged  to  use  those  sticks  and  blocks?"  inquired 
Sallie. 

"Oh.  dear  me,  no!  honorable  young  lady,"  replied  the  for- 
tune-teller, bowing  and  smiling  in  a  self-satisfied  manner.  "I 
knew  you  were  going  to  ask  me  that  question.  At  a  certain 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC. 


205 


hour  I  fall  into  a  trance  state,  during  which  I  learn  all 
that  is  going  to  occur  during  the  day.  This  morning  I  was  in- 
formed that  you  were  coming  here  and  that  you  would  make 
me  a  handsome  present." 

"Who  told  you  so?"  bluntly  demanded  Fitz. 

"  The  spirits,"  was 
the  answer.  "They  ad- 
vise me  of  everything." 
{Impressively '.)  "Yes, 
honorable  miss,  you  are 
about  to  give  me  at 
least  ten  sen.  The  spirits 
have  told  me  so." 

"  I  am  afraid  they  are 
not  truthful,"  was  her 
mischievous  reply. 
"  Come,  boys,  I  want  to 
go  to  the  curio  shop  in 
Uyeno." 

The  fortune-teller, 
unabashed  by  her  reply, 
chuckled  and  said  to  his 
customer, —  "  I  was  on  I)7 
joking  with  her.  No 
respectable  spirit  will 
reveal  anything  about 
those  foreigners.  Give  me  three  tempo  more,  and  I  will  tell  you 
what  you  want  to  know." 

"I  never  like  to  encourage  superstition,"  said  Sallie.  "Oto, 
I  think  your  people  sadly  need  missionaries  to  teach  them  not 
to  believe  in  such  persons  as  the  ura-naisha" 

"  Ah!  Sallie,"  was  the  gentle  response,  "you  forget  the  text 
about  plucking  the  mote  from  your  brother's  eye " 


FORTUNE-TELLER. 


2O6  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"And  not  seeing  the  beam  in  my  own.  What  do  you 
mean,  Oto?  We  certainly  have  not  any  fortune-tellers  in 
America." 

Young  Nambo  opened  his  pocket-book,  took  out  a  news- 
paper cutting,  and  handed  it  to  her,  saying, —  "Will  you  kindly 
read  that  ?  " 

She  complied,  then  said,  —  "I  never  could  have  believed 
such  a  thing.  After  this  I  will  be  cautious  what  I  say  about 
your  countrymen." 

"  What  makes  you  look  so  sad  ?  "  asked  Fitz. 

She  gave  him  'the  paper  and  he  read,  "  According  to  the 
latest  census,  it  is  computed  that  over  twenty  thousand 
persons  of  both  sexes  earn  their  living  as  fortune-tellers  and 
clairvoyants,  and  this  in  spite  of  our  free  schools,  the  press  and 
the  telegraph." 

"  That  is  true,"  said  the  boy.  "  Oto  is  right,  Sallie.  We 
see  the  mote  in  the  Japanese  eye,  but  are  too  conceited  to 
acknowledge  the  beam  in  our  own.  Here  we  are  at  the  curio 
man's." 

The  dealer  received  them  politely  and  said  to  Sallie,  — 

"  I  have  something  unique  to  show  you,  honorable  young 
lady,  —  two  birds  carved  from  a  piece  of  ivory.  They  are 
very  old,  and  I  think  there  is  nothing  like  them  in  the  world." 

Sallie  admired  the  carvings,  and,  on  inquiring  the  price,  was 
told  that  they  were  worth  three  hundred  yen. 

*  That  is  a  great  deal  of  money  to  waste  on  curios," 
gravely  remarked  Johnnie.  "It  would  keep  a  family  for  a  long 
time." 

:<:  Honorable  sir,"  respectfully  replied  the  man,  "it  is  not 
sinful  to  indulge  one's  taste  for  beautiful  objects.  The  person 
who  made  those  was  probably  poor  and  the  money  paid  by 
the  first  purchaser  very  likely  kept  the  carver's  family  for 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC.  207 

a  year.  The  profits  that  have  many  times  been  received  from 
their  re-sale  have  done  good;  therefore,  if  your  honorable  sister 
buys  them,  she  will  not  waste  her  money." 

"  That  is  so,"  said  the  boy,  in  a  thoughtful  tone.  "  I  under- 
stand money  spent  in  this  way  does  a  great  many  people  good, 
and  encourages  a  taste  for  the  beautiful." 

"  I  will  take  those,"  said  the  girl.     "  Last  mail  I  had  a  draft 


FINE   CARVINGS    IN   IVORY. 


sent  me  by  one  of  our  friends  at  home,  who  desires  to  possess 
some  really  exquisite  carvings  in  ivory.  Send  them  up  to  the 
yashiki  at  once,  and  I  will  pay  you." 

"What  does  that  picture  represent?"  inquired  Johnnie, 
pointing  to  a  lacquer  panel. 

"That  depicts  one  of  the  old  lords  worshipping  at  the  tomb 
of  his  father,  in  Shiba,"  said  the  man.  "Those  six  gentlemen, 
in  full  costume,  are  his  samurai,  who  are  assisting  in  the  cere- 
mony." 

"  Why,  to-morrow  is  Bon-matsuri"  (the  feast  of  the  dead), 
remarked  Oto.  "  I  shall  have  to  order  some  shikimi  for  my 


208 


THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


mother.  Please  excuse  me  from  going  home  with  you.  My 
parent  will  feel  grieved  if  I  neglect  to  make  the  purchase  for 
her.  Saionara  !  " 

On  reaching  home  they  found  Mrs.  Jewett  waiting  in  the 
veranda. 

"Come,  children,"  she  said,  "you  must  hurry.  The  con- 
cert is  to  be  a  dress  affair,  and  several  Japanese  nobles  and 
their  ladies  are  to  be  present." 


TOMB   OF   A   GREAT   LORD. 


About  two  o'clock  the  Jewett  family  went  over  to  the  Col- 
lege of  Music,  where  they  were  welcomed  by  Professor  Mason, 
a  genial  old  gentleman,  who,  after  shaking  hands  with  them, 
said  in  a  pleasant  voice,  "You  are  just  in  time;  I  was  afraid 
you  would  not  come.  My  pupils  are  all  assembled,  and  there 
are  only  a  few  more  guests  to  arrive.  This  way,  if  you  please." 

He  showed  them  several  apartments  arranged  for  various 
classes,  many  little  rooms  in  which  pupils  could  practise  the 
piano  without  disturbing  one  another,  and  the  quarters  for  ser- 


A    CONCERT    AT    THE    COLLEGE    OF    MUSIC.  209 

vants  and  the  attendants  of  the  young  lady  students.  Then, 
ushering  them  into  a  large  hall,  he  conducted  the  party  to  their 
seats. 

All  the  foreign  professors  and  their  families  were  present, 
and  the  noise  of  conversation  in  English,  German,  French, 
and  Japanese  afforded  great  amusement  to  the  fun-loving 
Fitz. 

In  a  few  moments  one  of  the  highest  officials  of  the  empire 
entered  with  his  family  and  suite,  and,  after  bowing  to  the 
assembly,  seated  himself. 

He  was  a  grave,  highly  intelligent,  refined-looking  gentle- 
man, and  spoke  most  excellent  English.  Addressing  the  head 
of  the  College,  he  said,  "  Professor  Mason,  will  you  kindly 
order  the  exercises  to  commence?" 

The  pupils,  whose  ages  ranged  from  five  to  thirty  years, 
were  dressed  in  brilliant  Japanese  costume,  and  were  seated 
with  their  lady  tutors  upon  the  left  of  the  upper  part  of  the 
hall,  which  was  provided  with  a  stage  raised  about  two  feet 
from  the  floor.  The  walls  of  the  apartment  were  covered 
with  the  musical  charts  invented  by  the  Professor,  each  note 
being  numbered  both  in  Japanese  and  English. 

Professor  Mason  advanced  to  the  front  of  the  platform, 
inclined  his  head  gracefully,  and  said,  "The  first  part  of  the 
programme  will  consist  of  exercises  on  the  piano,  played  by 
my  senior  scholars,  then  an  exhibition  of  reading  music  at 
sight,  vocal  exercises,  and  an  examination  of  the  members  of 
the  younger  class  in  the  rudiments  of  music." 

He  motioned  to  a  beautiful  Japanese  girl,  who  had  listened 
with  evident  pleasure  to  his  speech,  and  said,  r  Now,  if  you 
please,  Miss,  will  you  play  the  Moonlight  Sonata." 

When  the  performer  seated  herself,  some  of  the  foreign 
ladies  looked  as  though  they  anticipated  a  painful  trial  of  their 


210  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

nerves.  To  their  amazement,  the  girl  played  both  correctly 
and  with  marked  feeling.  During  her  performance  and  those 
that  succeeded,  the  young  Americans  watched  the  face  of  the 
kindly  Professor,  who  regarded  his  pupils  with  fatherly  in- 
terest. 

It  was  wonderful  to  hear  little  mites  of  children  singing 
Japanese  words  to  familiar  American  airs,  and  Fitz  whispered 
to  his  mother,  "  That  is  ?  Old  Folks  at  Home,'  but  our  old  folks 
at  Cromlech  would  never  recognize  it,  would  they?" 

The  progress  made  by  the  students  was  marvellous,  though, 
as  a  body,  they  naturally  sang  foreign  music  with  less  feeling 
than  they  did  their  own. 

After  a  wee  bit  of  a  girl  had  turned  her  back  to  the  piano, 
and  correctly  named  every  note  struck  by  the  professor,  he 
said,  "  Ladies  and  gentlemen,  my  pupil  teachers  will  now  give 
you  some  Japanese  music." 

A  hibachi  (fire-box)  was  then  brought  in  by  servants  and 
placed  upon  the  matted  platform,  a  kettle  and  tea-pot  set  upon 
the  bars  of  the  apparatus,  and  cups  placed  near  it.  Then  the 
attendants  entered  with  the  musical  instruments,  a  koto,  samisen 
and  biiva. 

A  brief  interval  ensued,  during  which,  Mrs.  Jewett  looked 
appealingly  at  her  husband,  after  which,  four  Japanese  ladies 
rose  from  their  chairs  and  ranged  themselves  in  native  fashion 
behind  the  fire-box. 

The  one  on  the  right  at  the  koto  slipped  some  ivory  tsume 
(points)  upon  her  fingers.  The  second  sipped  a  cup  of  tea,  and 
the  third  and  fourth  tuned  their  instruments.  They  bowed 
gracefully  and  looked  at  the  professor,  who  inclined  his  head 
and  said,  "  The  first  piece  will  be  solely  instrumental,  it  is 
called  Tsuru-no  Sugomori"  (The  stork  and  its  young). 

The   leading  performer  swept  the  strings  of  the  koto  and 


A  CONCERT  AT  THE  COLLEGE  OF  MUSIC.        211 

began  a  charming  air,  the  others  accompanying  her  at  inter- 
vals. 

After  a  few  bars,  the  spectators,  who,  like  Mrs.  Jewett,  had 
only  heard  very  inferior  Japanese  music,  began  to  glance  at 
one  another,  and,  as  the  air  progressed,  to  really  enjoy  the 
delightful  harmony,  which  is  impossible  to  describe. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  piece,  the  foreign  guests  heartily 
applauded  the  player,  and  the  Japanese  smiled  and  bowed 
their  thanks. 

"  Now,"  said  the  Professor,  whose  face  beamed  all  over  with 
happiness,  "  will  you,  ladies,  kindly  sing f  Home,  Sweet  Home,' 
in  English." 

They  once  more  bowed,  then  sang  in  excellent  time,  and 
very  sweetly,  Payne's  well-known  song. 

The  American  and  English  visitors  forgot  that  the  musical 
instruments  were  quaint-looking,  and  no  longer  noticed  the 
hibachi,  or  that  the  performers  did  not  wear  tight-fitting  gar- 
ments and  diamond  ear-rings.  They  only  heard  the 
heart-stirring  words,  sweetly  and  tenderly  sung  to  a  harp-like 
accompaniment,  at  once  novel  and  charming,  and,  as  the  song 
proceeded,  were  convinced  that,  notwithstanding  all  that  had 
been  said,  the  Japanese  can  master  our  music  as  thoroughly  as 
they  have  our  language. 

When  the  last  note  had  died  away,  Professor  Mason 
bowed,  and  said,  "Ladies  and  gentlemen,  that  closes  the 
exercises." 

The  guests  thanked  and  complimented  him  and  his  pupils, 
and,  after  chatting  awhile,  took  their  leave. 

As  the  Jewetts  crossed  to  their  house,  the  lady  said,  "  My 
dears,  I  am  converted." 

"To  Buddhism?"  asked  Fitz. 

"No,"  she  replied j  "but  I  will  acknowledge  that  there  is 


212  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

a  great  deal  of  beauty  in  Japanese  music,  and  that  our  esteemed 
friend  has,  by  his  patience  and  enthusiasm,  accomplished  what 
I  believe  no  other  man  could  have  done." 

r?  Yes,"  said  Sallie,  drying  her  eyes,  "  that  is  so,  mother. 
Did  not  the  last  song  make  you  think  of  home  ?  " 

The  word  "  home  "  had  a  strange  effect  upon  the  party,  for, 
though  they  heartily  enjoyed  their  life  in  the  wonderful  city  of 
Tokio,  they,  like  J.  Howard  Payne,  could  not  forget  their  be- 
loved land  across  the  broad  Pacific. 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES.  213 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 

"  Although  some  travellers  may  not  have  much  wisdom,  they  know  more  than  per- 
sons who  have  never  been  out  of  their  native  place. 

"  After  making  a  pilgrimage  to  the  shrines  of  Ise,  even  the  beggar  holds  up  his 
head  and  considers  himself  better  than  his  fellows." 

1AM  glad  we  are  going  to  start  to-day,"  said  Sallie  to  her 
brother.  "  It  is  so  warm  here  that  I  shall  welcome  the  sea- 
breeze  with  a  great  deal  of  pleasure.  Oh!  how  I  enjoy  being 
on  the  ocean." 

"Not  for  the  first  few  days,  Miss  Jewett,"  returned  Fitz. 
:?You  kink  up  like  a  caterpillar  and  won't  leave  your  berth, 
you  know  you  do.  It  is  no  good  saying  you  like  it." 

"You  are  a  dreadful  tease,  Fitz,"  she  answered.  "What 
have  you  got  in  your  hand?" 

"  These  are  lotus  flowers,  that  old  Sobei  has  procured  from 
Uyeno,"  he  replied.  "  He  thinks  a  great  deal  of  you,  Sallie." 

"  I  did  not  know  the  lotuses  were  in  bloom,"  she  said. 
"  Let  us  go  down  to  Uyeno  and  see  the  sight." 

In  a  few  moments  the  young  Americans  were  en  route  for 
their  destination.  Upon  nearing  the  pond,  Sallie  cried, — 

"Oh!  oh!  do  look  at  those  flowers;  are  they  not  lovely?" 

*  Yes,"  answered  Fitz,  nodding,  "they  are  delightful,  and 
would  be  more  so  if  the  water  were  not  so  highly  perfumed." 

"  How  gracefully  the  blossoms  lift  their  heads  to  the  sun," 
said  Sallie.  "  Do  you  remember  the  poem 

'The  beautiful  lotus  springs  from  the  mud, 
Loyalty  knows  no  distinction  of  rank  ?  '  ' 


214  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Yes,"  answered  Fitz;  "but  I  like  the  lotus  seeds  when 
they  are  ripe.  They  are  almost  as  good  as  square-nuts." 

"Don't  be  so  dreadfully  prosaic,"  said  the  girl.  :fYou 
ought  to  feel  some  admiration  for  such  a  beautiful  sight  as  this. 
The  place  is  perfectly  glorified  with  the  flowers." 

"  I  do  not  think  the  Japanese  lotus  is  as  lovely  as  our  pond- 
lily,"  remarked  Johnnie.  "Instead  of  the  blooms  floating  on 
the  water,  they  grow  at  the  end  of  a  rod-like  stem." 

"  Oh !  how  much  better  the  flowers  would  have  been  made 
if  you  had  been  consulted,"  slyly  remarked  Fitz,  "I  think  the 
Japanese  lotus  is  nice  enough.  You  cannot  eat  pond-lily 
seeds." 

"  Come,"  said  Sallie,  "  we  must  return  home.  I  want  to 
stop  at  the  silk-weaver's  on  our  way,  to  see  if  they  have 
finished  my  dress  piece." 

On  ascending  the  hill  toward  the  yashiki,  they  heard  the 
rattle  of  a  loom,  and  upon  looking  into  a  house,  from  whence 
the  noise  proceeded,  saw  a  woman  weaving  a  piece  of  bro- 
cade. 

:t  Why  do  you  make  such  narrow  stuff?"  asked  Sallie,  "and 
when  will  you  fill  my  order?' 

The  operator  smiled,  paused  in  her  occupation  and  replied, — 
"  Honorable  miss,  ever  since  the  first  person  began  to  weave 
in  Japan,  we  have  had  narrow  fabrics.  What  would  be 
the  good  of  making  anything  else?  A  kimono  (garment) 
takes  so  many  yards  according  to  the  size  of  the  person,  and 
we  never  have  to  waste  any  of  the  stuff  in  cutting  out,  as  you 
do.  We  could  not  make  our  clothes  of  your  wide  American 
fabrics.  Your  piece  of  silk  will  be  ready  to-morrow." 

She  bowed  good-humoredly  and  once  more  starting  her 
loom,  sent  the  shuttle  flying  merrily. 

"  How  the  general  introduction  of  steam  will  wake  these 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES.  215 

people  up,"  said  Fitz,  as  they  walked  homeward.  "Just 
imagine,  our  looms  can  produce  pieces  of  silk  three  times  as 
wide  as  these  and  weave  them  ten  times  as  fast." 

Upon  reaching  their  dwelling,  they  found  Mrs.  Jewett 
waiting  their  arrival. 

"Come,  daughter,"  she  said,  "we  have  no  time  to  spare. 
As  soon  as  you  have  dined,  we  will  order  our  jin-riki-sha. 
The  steamer  starts  at  four  o'clock  and  we  do  not  wish  to  keep 
our  friends  waiting." 

It  did  not  take  them  long  to  eat  their  meal,  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  which  they  entered  their  vehicles  and  were  driven  to 
the  Shinbashi  railway  station,  where  the}*  met  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Nambo  and  Oto. 

The  gentle  lady  welcomed  them,  saying,  —  "  It  makes  me 
so  happy  to  think  you  are  going  with  us.  I  believe  the  sight 
of  the  holy  places  will  have  a  lasting  effect  upon  your  minds." 

"  Honorable  mother,  the  train  is  ready  to  start,"  said  Oto. 
"Will  you  take  my  arm?  There  is  always  a  great  crowd 
at  the  gate." 

At  sunset  they  embarked  on  board  one  of  the  Mitsu  Bishi 
steamers  and  proceeded  down  the  coast. 

Early  next  morning  Sallie  was  awakened  by  Fitz,  who, 
knocking  at  the  door  of  her  state-room,  cried, — 

"  Oh,  sister,  get  up.  We  can  see  Fuji  above  the  clouds;  the 
sea  is  covered  with  white  caps,  and,  oh!  there  are  such  lots  of 
gulls  flying  round  th.e  ship." 

Instead  of  replying,  in  her  usual  merry  voice,  the  poor 
girl  faintly  answered, —  "Please  do  not  disturb  me,  Fitz.  I 
doubt  if  anything  would  tempt  me  to  rise  just  now.  I  wish  we 
had  not  come." 

"  I  thought  you  enjoyed  being  on  the  ocean,"  he  slyly  an- 
swered. "Come,  Sallie,  make  an  effort  and  take  a  look  at  old 


2l6 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


Fuji.  It  is  a  glorious  sight.  I  would  not  lie  in  bed  when  I 
could  see  such  a  thing:  no,  not  even  for  candy." 

On  the  morning  of  the  second  day,  they  passed  through 
the  Straits  of  Owadji,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  Osaka. 

The  sea  inside  was  so  calm  that  it  looked  like  a  mirror 
and  there  was  not  air  enough  to  move  the  sails  of  the  fune 
that  were  drifting  slowly  hither  and  thither. 

"Look!  "  cried  Fitz,  "two  of  the  junks  have  fallen  foul  of 


VIEW   OF   FUJI-YAMA   FROM   THE   SEA. 

one  another,  and  they  are  putting  out  their  boats  and  endeav- 
oring to  tow  them  apart.  How  clear  the  water  is!  Why,  I 
can  see  fish  a  long  way  down." 

"  How  those  sailors  must  wish  they  had  steam  aboard  their 
crafts,"  said  Johnnie.  "  Here  we  are,  making  a  bee-line  for 
the  anchorage  of  Kobe,  while  they  are  drifting  in  all  directions 
but  the  right  one.  It  was  a  great  thing  for  the  world  when  we 
invented  the  steam-engine." 

"  I  do  not  think  you  had  much  to  do  with  it,  brother,"  said 
Sallie. 

"I  thought  a  vapor-ship  was  first  built  by  an  Englishman," 


A    VISIT   TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES.  217 

said  Oto's  mother.  r  That  is  what  my  son  read  in  a  paper  the 
other  day." 

"  Don't  you  believe  such  a  statement,  Mrs.  Nambo,"  said 
Fitz.  "  Foreigners  are  always  assuming  the  credit  of  our 
discoveries.  We  invented  the  sewing-machine,  electric- 
telegraph,  steam-engine,  telephone,  vulcanized  india-rubber, 
monitor,  reaping-machine,  elevated  railway,  wooden  nutmegs, 
and  —  and  —  what  else,  Sallie  ?  " 

"  Baked  beans,"  slyly  responded  the  young  lady. 

"  Are  not  those  vegetables  very  dry  eating?"  gently  inquired 
Mrs.  Nambo.  r?We  boil  our  mame,  but  until  Oto  returned 
from  America  I  never  heard  of  their  being  baked." 

Fitz  was  about  to  give  her  a  comical  recipe  for  the  Yankee 
dish,  when  his  mother  checked  him,  saying,  "That will  do, my 
son." 

Although  the  boy  was  full  of  fun,  he  was  always  obedient 
to  his  parents,  so,  much  as  he  would  have  enjoyed  instructing 
Mrs.  Nambo  in  American  cookery,  he  yielded. 

They  landed  in  Kobe  and  saw  the  sights,  then  rode  to  the 
railway  depot  and  took  a  train  for  Osaka,  where  they  arrived 
late  in  the  evening. 

The  next  day  was  spent  in  viewing  the  principal  objects 
in  the  place,  including  the  castle,  with  its  walls  formed  of 
enormous  blocks  of  stone,  and  the  mint  with  its  perfect 
machinery. 

At  the  latter  establishment,  Johnnie  purchased  a  complete 
set  of  Japanese  coins. 

Gold.  Silver.  Copper. 

20  yen, i  yen, 2  sen, 

10  yen, 50  sen  (cents),  i  sen, 

5  yen, 20  sen,      .....  -^  sen," 

2  yen, 10  sen I  rin  (mill), 

I  yen, 5  sen,      .      .'    . 


2l8  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

tr  We  have  some  very  fine  temples  here,"  said  Mrs.  Nambo. 
"  I  want  you  to  visit  this  one,"  pointing  to  an  archway,  beyond 
which  were  seen  some  buildings.  :f  The  Nio  (two  kings)  are 
very  fine." 

The  Jewetts,  wishing  to  please  her,  inspected  the  hideous 
images  which,  unlike  those  at  Asakusa,  were  only  protected  by 
a  low  fence. 

"I  do  not  think  this  In  figure  looks  much  like  a  woman," 
said  Fitz.  w  It  has  a  moustache." 

"  Oh,  that  is  not  exactly  a  woman,"  said  Mrs.  Nambo. 
"  Our  gods  constantly  change  their  appearance  and  attributes. 
Sometimes  they  are  male  and  at  others  female.  Then  again 
they  are  one  person  or  two.  You  have  to  study  these  things, 
and  must  read  the  good  books." 

Oto  came  to  her  rescue,  saying,  w  Honorable  mother,  it  is 
the  hour  for  our  friends  to  take  their  dinner." 

"  Certainly,  certainly,"  she  answered.  "  Please  excuse  my 
talking  so  much.  When  I  speak  about  religion  I  never  know 
where  to  stop." 

"  She  is  like  Aunt  Hannah  Jane  Jewett,"  whispered  Fitz  to 
his  sister. 

"  Hush !  "  murmured  Sallie.  "  It  is  not  respectful  to  make 
such  remarks." 

When  they  reached  the  inn,  they  found  that  Mr.  Nambo 
had  ordered  a  very  excellent  Japanese  dinner,  to  which  every- 
body did  full  justice.  The  Jewetts  had  lived  long  enough  in 
Japan  to  heartily  enjoy  its  cookery. 

Oto's  father  presided  with  great  dignity,  and  it  was  comical 
to  see  him  and  Professor  Jewett  bowing  and  sucking  in  their 
breath  in  the  most  approved  native  fashion. 

Pf  I  think  to-morrow  we  will  visit  Nara,"  he  remarked. 
?  There  is  not  much  more  to  be  seen  here." 


THE    FIGURE   OF   SILENCE. 


\ 

220  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

Everything  was  arranged,  and  jin-riki-sha  hired  for  the 
round  trip.  About  twelve  o'clock  they  started,  a  very  merry 
party,  over  hill  and  dale. 

"What  are  those  things  in  the  ditches  for?"  asked 
Johnnie. 

"They  are  midzu-guruma  (water-wheels),"  said  Oto. 
"  If  it  were  not  for  them,  nothing  could  be  grown  on  the  hill- 
sides." 

In  several  places  they  saw  artificial  mounds  covered  with 


ANCIENT   BURIAL-PLACE   OF   AN    EMPEROR. 

ancient  pine-trees,  which  stood  out  very  conspicuously  on  the 
level  ground. 

"  Those  hillocks  are  the  resting-places  of  some  of  our 
Mikados,"  said  Mr.  Nambo.  rThe  one  you  see  there  con- 
tains the  body  of  Inkiyo,  the  twentieth  sovereign,  who  reigned 
at  the  beginning  of  the  fifth  century." 

"  I  thought  inkiyo  was  a  term  for  a  retired  old  gentleman," 
said  Johnnie. 

''  Well,  those  are  retired  old  gentlemen,"  quickly  answered 
Fitz.  :r  What  else  do  you  make  of  them?'' 

"I  should  think  this  part  of  Japan  was  once  under  water," 
remarked  the  Professor,  frowning  at  his  son.  *  These  gullies, 


222  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

between  the  hills,  must  have  been  the  beds  of  rivers.  This  is 
a  very  interesting  country." 

Toward  the  afternoon  they  entered  #  district  where  orange 
and  peach-trees  were  extensively  cultivated. 

As  they  neared  Nara,  the  country  became  more  hilly,  and 
they  saw  many  woods  from  which  rose  the  smoke  of  the  char- 
coal-burners' fires. 

"We  shall  have  the  happiness  of  staying  at  a  bozu  house  in 
the  enclosure  of  the  great  temple,"  said  Mrs.  Nambo.  f'  One 
always  feels  doubly  pious  when  in  the  shadow  of  a  sacred 
edifice." 

"  Hush,  hush !  "  whispered  her  husband.  :'  You  forget  that 
our  friends  do  not  think  as  you  do." 

The  night  had  closed  in  by  the  time  they  reached  their 
destination. 

They  were  received  by  their  friend,  the  bozu,  who  wel- 
comed them,  saying,  "  This  is  the  most  gratifying  event  of  my 
life.  I  never  expected  to  be  thus  honored.  You  will  find 
everything  you  require  in  your  rooms,  and  I  will  have  a  meal 
served  for  you  at  once." 

As  soon  as  the  party  had  supped,  they  retired,  feeling 
thoroughly  worn  out  with  their  long  ride. 

At  daybreak  they  heard  the  sound  of  a  service  in  the  tem- 
ple, whereupon  Fitz  called  them,  saying,  "  Hurry  up, 
everybody,  —  the  performance  is  just  going  to  begin." 

"  Fitz,"  sternly  exclaimed  his  father,  "  do  not  let  me  hear 
any  more  such  expressions.  How  would  you  like  a  solemn 
ceremony  of  our  church  to  be  designated  as  a  performance? 
These  rites  have  a  deep  meaning  for  our  friends,  the  Jap- 
anese." 

After  the  pilgrims  had  partaken  of  a  simple  breakfast  of' 
cold  rice  and  vegetables,  Mr.  Nambo  said  to  them,  "  Follow 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES.  223 

me.  I  have  been  here  many  times,  and  can  tell  you  every- 
thing." 

He  led  the  way  up  the  broad  path  to  the  main  temple, 
before  which  stood  a  very  fine  bronze  lantern,  over  six  feet  in 
height. 

T  This,"  said  their  guide,  "  was  presented  to  the  gods  by 
Yoritomo,  seven  hundred  years  ago,  about  which  time  the 
original  building  was  destroyed.  The  main  gateway,  with  its 
large  figures,  escaped  the  fire  and  is  more  than  eleven  hundred 
years  old.  Will  you  kindly  put  off  your  shoes;  then  we  will 
go  into  the  presence  of  the  Dai  Butsu." 

They  ascended  the  steps  and  entered  the  main  building,  in 
which  they  beheld  a  bronze  figure  of  Buddha,  over  sixty-three 
feet  high.  The  statue  rested  on  the  sacred  lotus,  and  was  gilt 
in  patches.  Above  the  head  rose  a  halo  fourteen  feet  wide, 
surmounting  which  was  a  forked  glory,  that  formed  an  arch 
for  the  figure. 

"My  goodness !"  whispered  Fitz,  "doesn't  it  look  surly?" 

5  That  image  contains  five  hundred  pounds  of  gold,"  said 
Mr.  Nambo,  "and  weighs  four  hundred  and  fifty  tons.  It  is 
considered  very  holy.  In  the  seventeenth  century  its  head 
was  shaken  off  by  an  earthquake." 

While  he  was  speaking,  his  wife  was  devoutly  praying 
and  counting  her  beads,  while  the  Professor  minutely  exam- 
ined the  gigantic  statue  through  his  opera-glass. 

In  front  of  the  halo,  around  the  shoulders  and  head  of  the 
god,  were  images  of  the  sixteen  Rakan  (beloved  disciples  of 
Buddha),  which,  Mr.  Nambo  stated,  were  eight  feet  in  height. 

The  temple  was  literally  crammed  with  deities,  bronze 
vases,  and  fine  lanterns,  that  were  the  objects  of  the  greatest 
veneration  to  the  crowds  that  flocked  thither  from  all  parts  of 
the  Empire. 


224  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY   OF    TOKIO. 

Dear  old  Mrs.  Nambo  was  in  her  glory,  and  it  was  comical 
to  hear  her  extolling  the  gods  to  Sallie  and  the  boys. 

The  Jewetts  were  shown  writings  by  very  ancient  Mika- 
dos,  the  bow  of  the  Empress  Jingu  Ko-go,  who  invaded  the 
Corea,  and  the  door  from  the  Mikado's  palace,  on  which  the 
famous  Kusunoki  Masashige,  otherwise  Nanko,  wrote  his 
parting  words  with  the  point  of  an  arrow. 

A  bozu,  who  knew  Mrs.  Nambo,  showed  them  the  relics, 
among  which  was  a  flat  stone  that  the  custodian  assured  them 
bore  the  impression  of  Shaka's  foot. 

"  He  must  have  worn  number  eighteen  boots,  and  trodden 
very  heavily,"  whispered  Fitz  to  Johnnie,  in  English. 

"  Hush,"  said  his  brother,  "  the  bozu  will  think  you  are 
ridiculing  the  relics." 

The  priest  then  exhibited  four  pieces  of  Shaka's  bones,  and 
some  incense-burners  and  articles  said  to  have  belonged  to 
him.  He  also  allowed  them  to  see  a  very  ancient  bell,  mir- 
rors a  thousand  years  old,  and  writing  of  the  same  age,  which 
was  asserted  to  be  the  most  beautiful  in  Japan. 

Mrs.  Nambo  regarded  everything  with  a  reverence  that  was 
most  touching,  while  her  husband  and  son  looked  at  them  as 
coldly  and  curiously  as  did  the  Americans. 

The  party  next  climbed  some  steps  and  inspected  the  great 
bell  of  Nara;  after  which  they  returned  to  the  priest's  house, 
where  they  dined. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  meal  they  visited  the  shojo  of  the 
temple,  Tsuzaka  Senkai,  who  entertained  them  very  gra- 
ciously, and  showed  them  an  inscription  written  by  the  present 
Mikado. 

"Is  that  not  a  wonderful  specimen  of  caligraphy?  "  he  said, 
bowing  reverently.  "  Can  you  read  it?  " 

"  Oh,  yes,"  said  Johnnie.     "  It  says,  Ku  do.     Ku  empty,  do, 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 


225 


temple.     I  suppose  it  means  that  this  residence  is  a  pure  place 
like  an  empty  Shinto  shrine." 

"  I  do  not  think  the  Mikado  writes  a  very  good  hand,"  said 
Fitz,  who  was  critically  surveying  the  inscription.  "I  can  do 
better  than  that." 

"  Impossible,"  was  the    gentle  retort.     "  No    one    can  ap- 
proach the  Mikado  in  writing  or  anything 
else.      Whatever  he   does   is   beautiful   and 
right." 

"  How  would  you  like  a  republican  form 
of  government?"  asked  the  unabashed  boy. 

"  Every  nation  requires  a  permanent 
head,"  replied  the  bozu.  '*  We  cannot  un- 
derstand how  you,  in  America,  exist  with 
a  new  Mikado  every  four  years." 

"  We  get  along  first-rate,"  returned  the 
boy. 

The}''  took  leave  of  the  chief  priest  who 
accompanied  them  to  the  door,  and,  on  part- 
ing, said,  "  You  have  formed  your  own  opin- 
ions, still  I  hope  your  visit  to  this  sacred 
spot  will  teach  you  to  revere  Buddha. 
Many  unbelievers  are  converted  here  every 
year." 

As  they  walked  to  their  residence,  Johnnie  said,  "  Oto, 
your  ministers  appear  just  as  anxious  about  doing  us  good,  as 
ours  are  to  save  you." 

"Yes,  indeed,  our  bozu  are  very  earnest,"  said  Mrs.  Nam- 
bo.  "  I  hear  that  some  of  them  are  going  to  the  States.  Do 
you  think  they  will  make  many  converts?" 

"  Not  in  New  York,"  said  Fitz.  "  They  must  go  West  and 
grow  up  with  the  country." 


WRITING  OF   THE 
PRESENT   EMPEROR. 


226 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


Mrs.  Nambo  looked  puzzled,  the  Professor  frowned,  Sallie 
bit  her  lips,  and  his  mother  shook  her  head,  noticing  which,  Fitz 
held  his  peace. 

The  pilgrims  remained  four  days  in  Nara,  then  started  for 
Kioto,  by  way  of  Uji. 

The  journey  to  this  old  city,  which  is  now  officially  called 
Sai-kio,  or  Western  capital,  was  a  most  enjoyable  one. 

The  party  rested  awhile,  after  which,  they  went  to  see  the 
sights,  their  first  visit  being  to  the  Mikado's  former  palace, 


MIKADO'S   OLD   PALACE,    KIOTO. 

which  they  entered  through  what  is  commonly  called  "  The 
Gate  of  the  Sun." 

The  grounds  inside  were  magnificent  examples  of  Japanese 
landscape  gardening. 

"  Before  the  restoration,"  said  Oto,  "  the  emperor  seldom 
quitted  this  place,  and  when  he  did,  was  conveyed  to  his 
destination  in  a  closely  screened  bullock-wagon.  Our  un- 
educated classes  believed,  if  any  ordinary  individual  looked 
at  the  sacred  person,  the  profane  wretch  would  immediately 
become  blind.  To-day,  his  majesty  drives  about  the  eastern 
capital  and  shows  his  people  that  he  is,  like  themselves, 
human." 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 


227 


They  entered  the  old  palace,  which  was  neither  large  nor 
handsomely  decorated,  and  inspected  the  Shi-shin-den  (throne 
room),  that  contained  a  curious  chair  and  a  pair  of  Koma-inu 
(Corean  dogs),  that  very  much  resembled  Pompeian  lions. 

From  this  building  they  went  into  the  Mikado's  private 
gardens,  laid  out  with  winding  paths,  stone  bridges,  little 
waterfalls,  quaint  stepping-stones,  and  trees  distorted  in  a 
grotesque  manner. 


FIGURES   OF    KOREAN    DOGS,    PLACED   AT   FOOT   OF   IMPERIAL   THRONE   AT   KIOTO. 

Nearly  the  entire  day  was  spent  in  seeing  the  spring,  sum- 
mer, winter,  and  other  apartments  formerly  occupied  by  the 
emperor  and  empress,  among  the  various  buildings  being  an 
earthquake-house. 

The  bewildering  number  of  edifices  tired  the  Americans, 
who  were  glad  to  return  to  their  inn  and  stretch  themselves 
upon  the  matted  floor. 

"  Sissy,"  shouted  Fitz,  from  his  room,  "  come  here.  I  want 
you  to  see  something.  There  is  a  moji-yaki  (letter  burner) 
outside,  and  it  is  fun  to  see  him  make  his  sweets." 


228 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


The  girl  went  to  her  brother,  and  found  Johnnie,  Fitz,  and 
Oto  watching  an  old  fellow  who  was  baking  a  kind  of  candy 
on  an  apparatus  that  looked  like  a  small  waffle-iron. 

The  man  squatted  on  a  box  behind  a  little  counter,  upon 
which  rested  various  utensils,  above  them  being  a  frame-work 

for  the  display  of  his 
productions.  He  was 
protected  from  the  sun 
by  a  very  large  um- 
brella made  of  oiled- 
paper,  and  his  head  was 
covered  with  a  towel 
of  coarse  blue-cotton. 
Near  the  stall  stood 
two  boys,  who  alter- 
nately grinned  at  one 
another,  and  regarded 
him  with  admiration. 
The  copper  griddle  was 
heated  by  charcoal, 
placed  in  a  little  earth- 
en furnace  beneath  the 
counter,  and  his  stock- 
in-trade  consisted  of  a 
porcelain-bowl  contain- 
ing rice-gluten. 
He  filled  a  dipper  with  the  sweet  mass  and  ran  the  stuff 
over  the  heated  mould,  where  it  sizzled  and  frizzled  into  a 
solid  figure  resembling  a  fish.  This  he  dexterously  peeled  oft 
and  presented  to  his  customer. 

:t  Look  at  that  hon-ya"  (bookseller),  said  Johnnie,  pointing 
to  a  young  man  squatted  on  a  mat  upon  the  other  side  of  the 
way.  "  He  is  knee-deep  in  literature." 


CANDY-MAKER. 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 

:t  Those  fellows  do  a  good  trade,"  observed  Oto. 
sell  all  manner  of  trash." 

"Is  that  his  pipe  on  his  left  hand?"  asked  Sallie. 


229 
:f  They 


WAYSIDE   BOOK-STORE. 


:<l  Yes,"  answered  their  friend.  "  He  looks  as  though  he 
smoked  from  dawn  to  eve." 

While  they  were  chatting,  a  school-girl,  dressed  in  a  rather 
unusual  costume,  approached  the  man  and  inquired  if  he  had 
a  certain  novel. 

:r  Why,  she  has  on  boy's  trousers,"  said  Fitz. 


230  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  Oh,  no,"  replied  Oto.  "  A  great  number  of  our  young 
lady  scholars  now  wear  hakama.  I  think  they  look  very  well 
in  them.  Any  one  can  tell  she  is  a  girl  by  the  way  her 
hair  is  dressed.  Do  you  observe  the  package  she  is  carrying 
under  her  right  arm?  It  contains  her  schoolbooks  wrapped  in 
cloth." 

"  I  have  not  what  you  require,"  said  the  hon-ya  to  his  cus- 
tomer, looking  up  from  a  catalogue  he  was  perusing.  rf  You 
already  owe  me  eighteen  sen.  When  you  pay  me  I  will  pro- 
cure the  work;  at  present,  I  have  not  any  money  to  invest  in 
new  stories." 

•'  Oto,"  said  Mr.  Nambo,  from  the  passage-way,  "  are  you 
there?" 

"  Come  in,  sir,"  cried  Fitz,  "  all  of  us  are  here." 

Mr.  Nambo  entered,  and,  seating  himself,  said,  "  I  have 
been  talking  with  Professor  and  Mrs.  Jewett,  and  we  have 
concluded  not  to  remain  any  longer  in  this  city.  Although 
there  are  many  temples  and  places  of  interest  to  visit,  we  pre- 
fer to  shorten  our  stay,  I  having  just  now  heard  of  several  cases 
of  cholera  in  the  poorer  quarters.  Be  prepared  to  start  to- 
morrow at  daybreak." 

The  boys  bowed  their  acquiescence,  after  which  the  old 
gentleman  retired. 

They  dined  in  a  private  apartment,  overlooking  a  pretty 
garden.  During  the  meal  the  party  was  watched  by  a  num- 
ber of  visitors  who  had  been  admitted  by  the  landlord  to  see 
the  '?  Chinese  eat  with  cooks'  instruments,"  namely,  knives  and 
forks. 

Early  the  next  morning,  they  took  the  cars  to  Otsu,  near 
Biwa,  and  after  seeing  the  lake,  engaged  jin-riki-sha  to  carry 
them  to  Suzuka-toge. 

At  noon  they  arrived  at  Kusatsu  and  put  up  at  a  wayside 


232  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

inn,  the  front  of  which  was  shaded  by  a  magnificent  wistaria, 
and  the  roof  covered  with  a  growth  of  irises  that  found  moist- 
ure for  their  roots  among  the  decaying  thatch. 

On  beholding  the  travellers,  the  landlady  said  to  some 
coolies  who  were  seated  on  a  bench  under  the  tree,  "  Come 
out  of  that.  Don't  you  see  the  honorable  foreigners  want  your 
place?" 

"Please  do  not  disturb  yourselves,"  said  the  Professor,  "we 
will  go  indoors." 

"  The  flies  will  eat  you  up  if  you  do,"  answered  the  woman, 
adding  to  the  men,  "Move  yourselves,  and  bring  two  or  three 
benches.  Do  not  stare  in  that  absurd  fashion.  Have  you 
never  before  seen  honorable  foreigners?" 

The  coolies  did  as  they  were  commanded,  grumbling  all 
the  time  like  children. 

Notwithstanding  the  apparent  poverty  of  the  place,  the 
cook  served  a  very  excellent  repast;  among  other  things,  giv- 
ing the  new  arrivals  some  broiled  brook-trout. 

While  the}7  were  partaking  of  their  meal,  three  men  and  a 
boy,  with  their  heads' shaven,  approached  the  inn. 

One  of  the  strollers  carried  a  pole  on  which  was  a  lantern 
surmounted  by  a  fringed  umbrella  and  a  gohei,  the  former 
bearing  the  inscription,  "  Sumt  yoshi  odori" 

"Those  are  dancers  from  Sumi-yoshi,"  said  Mrs.  Nambo. 
"Now  you  will  see  something  very  interesting." 

The  performers  halted,  rested  the  pole  of  their  lantern  on 
the  ground  and  commenced  to  howl  a  dismal  chant,  one  of 
them  keeping  time  to  the  din  by  striking  the  staff  with  two 
pieces  of  stick,  while  the  boy  gracefully  advanced  and  retreated, 
and  waved  his  arms  from  right  to  left. 

"  Isn't  his  face  painted  ?  "  remarked  Fitz. 

'That  is  to  make  him  look  like  a  girl,"  said  Mrs.  Nambo. 
"Does  he  not  dance  very  beautifully?" 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 


"We  do  not  call  such  motions  dancing,"  said  Fitz. 


233 

"Why 
does  he  have  that  towel  on  his  head?" 

*  To  make  him  look  feminine,"  answered  the  kindly  old 
lady.  "Ah!  when  I  was  young,  many  people  got  their  livino- 
that  way." 

"Now,  honorable  friends,"  said  Mr.  Nambo,  as  he  paid  the 
bill,  "we  will   start  for  Seki. 
The  country  is  hilly,  and  we 
shall  not  reach  our  destina- 
tion until  late." 

About  four  o'clock  that 
afternoon  they  began  to 
ascend  the  mountain,  and  by 
rive  entered  the  pass. 

"Oh!  look  up  there,  Sal- 
lie,"  cried  Fitz,  pointing  to 
a  man  crossing  the  valley  in 
a  basket  suspended  from  a 
rope.  "  My  goodness,  I 
would  not  like  to  be  in  his 
place." 

"  That  is  a  tsuri  kago " 

(hanging     basket-bridge), 

said  Oto.      '*  There  are  many 

of  them  in  different  parts  of 

Japan." 

Upon  arriving  at  the  summit,  they  halted  at  a  wayside  inn, 
near  the  Shinto  temple  of  Se-hori  Hime,  and  gave  their  men  a 
rest.  The  landlady,  a  very  good-tempered  woman,  ushered 
them  into  an  apartment  adorned  with  a  large  hanging-picture, 
representing  Hotei,  a  famous  Chinese  priest,  who  was  very 
kind  to  children,  and  who  is  now  reckoned  as  one  of  the  seven 
gods  of  Luck. 


HAIR-DRESSER   AT   WORK. 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"Why  is  Hotei  always  depicted  with  a  big  sack?  "  inquired 
Sallie,  as  they  seated  themselves  upon  the  matted  floor. 

Mrs.  Nambo  smiled,  closed  her  eyes,  and  said,  "That  is  to 
contain  the  presents  he  gathers  for  good  children.  He  often 
uses  it  as  a  boat  to  cross  the  water.  He  has  eyes  in  the  back 


STREET-DANCERS. 


of  his  head,  so  that  he  is  always  watching  the  little  ones. 
Have  you  any  god  like  him?  " 

"  No,"  answered  Sallie,  "  but  our  Santa  Claus  is  said  to  be 
endowed  with  similar  attributes." 

The  landlady,  who   had  listened  with  open-mouthed  admi- 


JAPANESE  FLYING   BRIDGE. 


236 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


ration,  bowed  respectfully  and  said,  "What  can  I  offer  your 
exalted  excellencies?" 

"Bring  the  best  your  house  affords,"  said  Mr.  Nambo. 
"  My  friends  want  everything  that  is  good." 

Before  the  woman  retired,  she  said,  "  We  are  building  a 
flying-bridge  to  connect  this  place  with  a  neighboring  village. 
You  ought  to  go  and  see  the  sight.  It  is  a  very  wonderful 

one.     The  road  passes  the 
back  of  my  garden." 

They  took  her  advice, 
and  after  a  short  walk 
found  the  structure,  which 
the  workmen  were  rapidly 
completing. 

Seven  strong  rattan 
cables  had  been  stretched 
across  the  valley,  from 
summit  to  summit,  and 
planks  were  being  tied 
upon  this  elastic  support. 

•The  men  worked  as 
calmly  as  though  they  had 
been  on  firm  ground, and 
did  not  seem  to  take  any 
extra  precautions.  When 

one  of  the  artisans  on  the  opposite  side  required  a  light  for 
his  pipe,  he  coolly  walked  across  the  centre  cables  and  re- 
turned, as  though  such  an  occurrence  were  a  very  common 
one. 

"  Come,"  said  Mrs.  Jewett.  "  I  cannot  look  at  those  men. 
How  the  bridge  sways  with  their  motion." 

"Is  it  not  marvellous? "  said  the  landlady,  who  came  to 
summon  them  to  their  repast. 


HOTEI,  PATRON  OF  CHILDREN. 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 


237 


"Will  they  provide  it  with  a  handrail?  "  inquired  Sallie. 

"No,"  returned  the  woman,  "our  people  never  wrant  such 
things.  When  the  wind  blows  it  rocks  the  bridge,  and  folks 
do  not  care  to  cross  it,  at  other  times  they  walk  in  the  middle 
and  go  over  quite  safely." 

They  returned  to  the  inn  and  enjoyed  their  meal,  during 
which,  Johnnie  said  to  the  waitress,  "  What  are  those  instru- 
ments under  the  shed  there?" 


SUSPENSION    BRIDGE. 


"A  fan  for  winnowing  rice,"  she  replied.  "A  frame  on 
which  to  rest  a  rice-huller,  and  mallets  used  for  beating  raw 
cotton  into  wadding.  We  clean  all  our  own  grain  and  make 
batting  for  our  fouton  (comforters)." 

"Please  order  our  jin-riki-sha?  said  Mr.  Nambo,  as  he 
settled  the  bill.  "  I  fear  we  shall  not  reach  our  destination 
before  dusk." 

In  five  minutes  they  were  in  their  vehicles  and  en  route. 

The  sun  was  setting  as  they  descended  the  pine-clad 
valley,  which  was  here  and  there  glorified  with  parti-colored 
cryptomeria,  and  it  was  quite  dark  before  they  arrived  at 


THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


Seki,  where  they  put  up  at  the  inn  of  Aidzu,  the  landlord  of 
which  proved  to  be  a  connoisseur  in  old  pottery. 

After  his  guests  had  supped,  he  showed  them  a  beautiful 
incense-burner  (koro}  of  pierced  white  porcelain. 

"  This,"  he  said,  "  was  made  fifty  years  ago,  and  although 
not  as  ancient  as  some  pieces  I  have,  is  very  exquisite." 

>?We  can  buy  small  match-boxes,  pierced  like  that,  for  five 

cents  each,  in  the  States,"  said 
Fitz. 

"  I  know,"  replied  the  man 
"some  merchants  have  lost 
fortunes  in  exporting  such 
goods." 

"  Hush,  brother,"  whis- 
pered Sallie,  "you  always  spoil 
everything." 

The  landlord,  not  at  all 
disconcerted,  exhibited  a  hi- 
bachi  (small  bowl  to  contain 
charcoal  for  warming  the 
hands).  Regarding  it  com- 
placently, he  said  to  Sallie, 
"This  is  shaped  like  the  tama 
(jewel  of  the  soul).  Observe  its  beautiful  buff  ground  and 
exquisite  apple-green  glaze.  It  was  made  nearly  a  hundred 
years  ago,  at  Awata." 

He  called  to  a  servant,  who  brought  in  a  lovely  hana-ike 
(flower-vase)  of  brown  glazed  stone-ware,  ornamented  with 
storks  in  white  clay. 

'This  is  a  fine  piece  of  Yatsu-shiro  ware,"  said  Mr. 
Nambo.  "How  old  is  it?" 

"  It  was  made  over  a  hundred  years  ago,"  answered  their 


INCENSE  BURNER,  SETO  WARE. 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 


239 


host,  then  glancing  at  Fitz,  who  had  yawned  several  times,  he 
added,  "  Honorable  gentlemen,  I  will  now  retire,  as  I  see  you 
are  weary.  May  you  have  good  rest  and  may  your  souls 
remain  in  your  bodies  all  night  (not  dream)." 

"  I  am  ready  for  bed,  even  though  it  be  a  Japanese  one,  a 
comforter  spread  on  the  floor,"  said  Mrs.  Jewett.     *r  Oto,  do 
you  remember  how  I  tried  to  make  you  feel  at  home  the  first 
night     you     were     in     the 
States?" 

:<r  Yes,  I  shall  never  for- 
get it,"  laughingly  answered 
the  young  doctor. 

:?You  were  very  kind 
to  my  boy,"  said  the  gentle 
Mrs.  Nambo.  "  I  offered 
many  prayers,  and  vowed 
never  again  to  eat  peaches 
if  my  son  were  safely  re- 
stored to  me.  Dai-koku 
was  very  good,  and  we  owe 
a  great  deal  to  him." 

Oto's  face  flushed,  for  he  knew  full  well  that  Fitz  was 
laughing  secretly  at  the  dear  old  lady's  description. 

:?You  must  not  mind  my  mother's  little  speeches,"  he 
whispered  to  Sallie,  as  they  said  good  night.  "  Remember 
she  has  never  been  to  America." 

r  Your  mother  is  very  amiable  and  good,"  replied  the  girl. 
"  I  love  to  hear  her  talk,  she  is  so  sweet  and  earnest.  Do  not 
ever  again  think  of  apologizing  for  her,  Oto." 

At  daybreak  the  boys  rose,  and  entering  the  veranda, 
seated  themselves,  in  order  to  watch  a  barber  whose  shop  was 
opposite  the  inn. 


OLD    AWATA    BRAZIER. 


240 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF   TOKIO. 


rf  What  a  queer  idea  it  is  to  shave  the  top  of  the  head,"  said 
Fitz.  "  He  is  telling  his  customer  a  funny  story.  Do  you 
notice  he  saves  all  the  hair  and  puts  it  in  a  box  upon  his  left. 
For  what  do  they  use  it?  " 

"  As   a  fertilizer,"  said   Oto.     "  It  is  said  to  benefit  some 

kinds  of  plants." 

:r  What  are  those  tallies  on 
the  wall  ?  "  asked  Johnnie. 

"  Those  are  the  scores  of  his 
regular  customers,"  answered 
the  doctor.  "  Each  is-  inscribed 
with  a  peculiar  design,  in  lieu 
of  a  name.  Every  time  he 
shaves  a  patron  he  makes  a 
stroke  on  the  back  of  the  tally, 
and  when  it  is  full,  presents  it 
for  payment." 

"  For  what  are  those 
shears  ?  "  said  Fitz,  "  and  those 
white  strings  behind  the  blank 
tablet?" 

?  The  shears  are  to  cut  the 
hair  with,  and  the  strings  are  to  tie  the  cue  when  it  is  dressed 
in  the  old  style." 

The  barber  was  evidently  a  merry  fellow,  for  though  he 
sometimes  pulled  the  hair  of  his  customers  until  they  winced 
again,  they  always  laughed  at  his  sallies,  and,  on  taking  their 
leave,  paid  him  cheerfully. 

"  Boys,"  said  Sallie,  "  breakfast  is  ready.  We  are  going  to 
travel  as  far  as  Nagoya  to-day,  so  you  had  better  make  a  hearty 
meal." 

About  eight  o'clock,  the  party  entered  their  jin-riki-sha 


YATSU-SHIRO   VASE. 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES. 


24I 


and  set  out  for  Kame-yama,  the  road  passing  between  fields  of 
fully-matured  rice, "that  looked  like  a  sea  of  gold. 

They  rattled  through  the  town  without  stopping  and  went 
on  to  Ishi-yakushi,  named  after  a  celebrated  temple.  While 
they  were  changing  their  runners,  Mrs.  Nambo  said,  "We 
ought  to  remain  here  long  enough  to  see  the  miraculous  image 
of  Yakushi.  It  has  power  to  protect  one  against  earthquakes." 

"That  would  be  jolly," 
said  Fitz.  "  I  would  like 
to  see  the  show." 

"Fitz,  Fitz!"  whis- 
pered his  mother. 

"Oh!  I  forgot,"  mur- 
mured the  boy. 

Mrs.  Nambo  again 
proposed  to  visit  the 
deity,  when  her  son  said, 
"We  shall  not  have  time, 
honorable  mother.  We 
want  to  stop  at  Kuwana 
for  lunch." 

Away  they  went  as 
hard  as  the  men  could  tear,  halting  for  a  few  moments  at 
Yokka-ishi,  from  which  place  large  quantities  of  tea  are 
shipped  to  Yokohama. 

The  day  was  warm,  and  the  men  who  drew  the  vehicles 
panted  like  hunted  deer,  noticing  which,  Mrs.  Nambo  said, 
"  It  would  be  a  merciful  act  to  rest  until  to-morrow  at  Ku- 
wana, where  there  are  beautiful  temples  of  the  god  of  Kusuga. 
You  ought  to  see  the  bronze  torti  and  other  curious  sights  of 
the  place." 

"  I  do  not  think  the  men  are  suffering,  mother,"  said  Oto. 


AGRICULTURAL   IMPLEMENTS. 


242  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"  They  will  have  a  good  rest  while  we  are  taking  our  meal. 
We  must  keep  on  and  reach  Nagoya  by  nightfall." 

Kuwana  boasted  of  three  inns,  the  best  of  which  was  that 
of  Kio,  where  they  stopped. 

At  two  o'clock  the  party  crossed  the  river  and  followed 
the  To-kai-do  until  they  reached  Tsushima,  when  they  turned 
into  a  country  road  that  led  to  their  destination. 

Nagoya  proved  to  be  quite  a  place,  it  having  once  been  the 
seat  of  the  powerful  princes  of  Owari,  who  were  one  of  the 
Go  Sanke  (three  august  families),  related  to  the  Tokugawa 
clan. 

The  stores  contained  excellent  collections  of  Shippo  (Jap- 
anese cloisonne),  fine  curios,  and  old  Imari  ware. 

It  was  dark  before  they  reached  the  city,  so  the  boys  did 
not  see  the  castle  until  the  morning,  when  Fitz  awakened  his 
party  by  shouting,  "Get  up  everybody.  My  goodness!  Here 
is  a  five-storied  building  with  whacking  great  gold-fish  on  the 
gables.  It  is  a  sight  worth  looking  at." 

They  joined  him  in  the  veranda,  and  saw  the  Ten-shu,  don- 
jon of  the  castle,  which  was  ornamented  with  the  celebrated 
shachi-hoku  (golden  dolphins),  made  by  the  order  of  Kato 
Kiyomasa  *  two  hundred  and  seventy  years  ago. 

"  Those  figures  are  eight  feet  seven  inches  high,"  said  Mr. 
Nambo.  "  They  are  of  solid  gold  and  are  worth  thirty  thou- 
sand dollars  each.  Seven  years  ago  one  of  them  was  taken 
down  and  sent  to  the  Vienna  exhibition.  On  its  way  back  it 
was  wrecked,  and  the  government  went  to  great  expense  to 
recover  it.  What  are  you  looking  at,  Fitz  San  ?  " 

The  boy  sighed,  made  a  comical  gesture,  and  said,  "  You 
are  ahead  of  us  in  one  thing.  We  have  the  biggest  snakes,  the 
tallest  men,  and  the  handsomest  women  in  the  world,  but  you 
beat  us  in  gold-fish.  Yes,  you  are  ahead  of  us  in  this." 

*  For  Kato  Kiyomasa,  vide  "  Young  Americans  in  Japan,"  p.  179. 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACK  LSD    PLACES.  243 

"Have  you  ever  read  how  a  man  attempted  to  steal  those?" 
said  Mrs.  Nambo.  "  He  made  an  immense  kite  and  mounted 
it  one  night  in  a  gale  of  wind,  but,  on- landing  upon  the  roof  of 
the  castle,  was  captured.  He  was  a  very  daring  thief,  and  was 
well  punished  for  his  crime." 

"  Did  they  make  a  hero  of  him  and  put  his  name  in  the 
newspapers  ?  "  asked  Fitz. 

"No,"  was  the  gentle  response.      f  They  boiled  him  in  oil." 

"  Like  a  sardine,"  mur- 
mured the  irrepressible. 

"  The  story  has  been  de- 
lightfully told  by  Professor 
Griffis,"  said  Sallie.  "When 
we  read  it  at  home,  \ve  little 
thought  we  should  ever  see 


••  $Wfc*i 

1^0  -***«£  **..  ] 


the  famous  gold-fish  of  Owa- 


TOWER   OF   NAGOYA   CASTLE. 


ri  castle." 

"Ah!"  exclaimed  her  father  enthusiastically;  "  no  wonder 
the  inhabitants  desired  to  have  those  beautiful  objects  re- 
stored to  their  proper  positions.  They  are  things  of  beauty, 
and  ?  bathe  the  city  in  their  brightness.' ' 

After  breakfast  they  set  out  to  inspect  the  castle,  which  is 
still  kept  in  tolerable  repair.  It  is  very  large,  and  with  its  out- 
buildings covers  about  four  hundred  acres  of  ground. 

:t  This  place,"  said  Mr.  Nambo,  "  was  built  in  a  few  weeks, 
and  it  is  said  that  two  hundred  thousand  men  were  simulta- 
neously employed  upon  the  works." 

"  It  must  have  looked  like  a  bee-hive,"  said  Fitz.  "Just 
imagine  such  a  number  of  people  occupied  upon  one  building." 
Once  more  looking  up  at  the  gold-fish,  he  added, "  Yes,  those 
are  very  fine,  they  beat  the  dome  of  the  State  House  at  Boston. 
They  shine  splendidly." 


244  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  castle  officials  were  exceedingly  polite  to  the  visitors, 
and  took  them  all  over  it. 

Upon  ascending  to  the  top  of  Kato's  tower,  they  saw  that 
some  of  the  old  drill-grounds  inside  the  castle  were  under 
cultivation,  noticing  which,  Mr.  Nambo  said,  "Ah!  in  the  old 
times  those  places  were  crowded  with  brave  samurai,  now 
they  are  full  of  dai-kon  (radishes).  How  the  noble  ghosts 
must  grieve  when  they  regard  that  sight." 

"  I  reckon  they  wish  they  could  eat  some  of  the  dai-kon" 
said  Fitz.  'They  must  be  like  the  ghost  of  Benjamin  Franklin 
looking  at  a  pot  of  beans." 

At  first  Mr.  Nambo  did  not  understand  the  simile,  but 
when  it  was  explained  by  Oto,  he  began  to  chuckle,  and 
presently  remarked,  "  Fitz  San,  I  fear  you  have  no  reverence 
for  anything." 

"  I  am  afraid  that  I  do  not  exactly  know  what  the  word 
means,  sir,"  respectfully  answered  the  boy. 

The  Professor  shook  his  head  reprovingly,  and  said  to  their 
friend,  "  I  would  like  to  see  the  shrine  containing  the  sacred 
sword.  Is  it  not  somewhere  hereabouts?" 

"Yes,  it  is  in  Miya,"  said  Mr.  Nambo.  "We  can  visit  it 
to-morrow.  If  you  have  seen  enough  of  the  castle,  we  will 
return  to  our  inn,  as  I  fear  your  wife  and  daughter  are  becom- 
ing weary." 

On  their  way  back  they  passed  some  images  under  the 
trees,  and  Mr.  Nambo  said,  "Those  are  nure-botoke  (wet 
saints).  We  call  them  so  because  they  are  exposed  to  the 
rain." 

"  Not  because  they  drank,"  said  Fitz. 

"Oh,  no!"  was  the  innocent  rejoinder.  :?  The  one  there 
with  the  tablets  on  his  dress  is  Ji-zo,  but  I  do  not  know  the 
name  of  the  other.  I  suppose  the  people  have  forgotten  whom 
the  figure  represents." 


A    VISIT    TO    SOME    SACRED    PLACES.  245 

"One  is  riding  a  hobby-horse,"  said  Fitz.  "  Somebody  has 
chipped  off  its  ear.  Anyhow,  I  would  rather  be  a  wet  saint 
than  a  dry  one.  It  is  more  pleasant  to  be  out  in  the  sunshine 
than  cooped  up  in  a  temple." 

They  stayed  in  Nagoya  two  days,  then  proceeded  to  Miya, 
and  visited  the  Shinto  temple  of  Atsuta,  which  stands  in  a 
beautiful  park  of  grand  old  trees. 

Before  the  buildings  were  gateways,  hung  with  white  cur- 
tains, looped  apart,  in  order  to  allow  the  pilgrims  to  see  the 


SHINTO    SHRINE. 


shrines,  which  were  simple,  barn-like  structures,  covered  with 
thick  thatch.  None  of  the  people  entered  the  edifices  but  con- 
tented themselves  with  dipping  their  fingers  in  water,  throwing 
some  money  on  a  white  cloth  in  front  of  the  shrines,  and  in 
kneeling,  rubbing  and  clapping  their  hands,  and  saying  their 
prayers. 

"The  sacred  weapon,  Ktisagani-no-mitzu-rugo  (grass- 
cutting  sword)  is  never  exhibited,"  said  Mr.  Nambo.  K  It  is 
kept  in  the  central  building,  and  is  one  of  the  three  emblems 
of  the  Shinto  faith." 


246  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

The  party  remained  at  Miya  until  the  next  morning,  then 
sailed  down  the  river  and  across  the  bay  to  Yamada,  where 
they  remained  one  day  inspecting  the  sacred  shrines,  which 
were  very  much  like  those  of  Miya. 

After  passing  under  a  torn,  of  unpainted  timber,  they 
entered  a  space  containing  many  grand  old  trees  and  some 
stables  for  the  accommodation  of  the  sacred  horses,  then  came 
another  torn  and  they  beheld  the  outer  gate  of  the  temple  that 
enshrines  the  sacred  mirror. 

The  gate  was  curtained  with  a  white  drapery  which  was 
partly  raised,  beyond  it  were 
two  other  gateways,  and  the 
sacred  shrines,  that  looked 
like  a  group  of  well-thatched 
barns  with  wing-like  gables. 

Mr.  Nambo  performed 
his  ablutions,  threw  some 
money  upon  a  white  cloth, 

J  SACRED    SHRINES    OF    ISE. 

knelt,  rubbed  his  hands  to- 
gether, clapped  them  twice,  and  prayed;    his  wife  following 
his  example  at  a  respectful  distance. 

When  the  party  returned  to  the  inn,  she  said  to  Sallie, 
:?You  no  doubt  observed,  that,  although  I  am  a  Buddhist,  I 
prayed  in  the  same  manner  as  Mr.  Nambo.  I  did  it  to  show 
my  respect  for  him.  A  wife  should  always  reverence  her 
husband's  faith.  Ah!  if  you  only  could  think  of  Buddha." 

"  Mother,"  said  Oto,  w  we  propose  after  resting  awhile  to  go 
to  Futami  and  spend  a  few  days  on  the  sea-shore." 

"  That  will  be  delightful,"  she  answered.  "  I  love  to  look 
at  the  water  and  to  see  the  fune  sailing  backwards  and  for- 
wards. I  was  born  in  sight  of  the  ocean,  so  the  roar  of  the 
waves  always  makes  me  think  of  my  childhood." 


248 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


The  next  afternoon  they  started,  and  by  nightfall  were 
in  a  delightful  little  residence  overlooking  the  bay. 

They  remained  in  this  lovely  spot  for  nearly  a  fortnight, 
and  spent  many  hours  in  watching  the  children  wading  in  the 
shallows  near  the  rocks,  and  fishing  for  ai  (whitebait)  and 
crabs.  On  the  left,  near  a  hatoba  (pier),  on  which  were 
many  warehouses,  was  a  fleet  of  junks  that  Oto  said  came  from 
away  down  South,  laden  with  coal  and  pottery. 

The  days  passed  so  pleasantly,  that  one  morning  the  young 

Americans  were  very  much 
surprised  when  their  father 
said,  "  This  is  the  twenty- 
eighth  of  August.  It  is 
time  we  started  for  home. 
The  Yokohama  steamer 
touches  here  to-morrow,  and 
we  will  return  in  time  to  get 
comfortably  settled  before 
COASTING  JUNKS.  the  beginning  of  the  college 

term." 

At  noon  the  next  day  they  embarked  on  board  a  Mitsu 
Bishi  steamer,  and  reached  their  destination  the  following 
evening. 

They  were  very  glad  to  get  back,  and  on  entering  the 
Yokohama  railway  station,  Fitz  cried,  "Hurrah!  In  an  hour 
we  shall  be  in  the  wonderful  city  of  Tokio!" 

They  had  a  car  all  to  themselves,  and  enjoyed  the  ride 
immensely. 

*  Look  at  Fuji,"  said  Sallie,  pointing  to  the  mountain, 
which  was  bathed  in  the  glories  of  a  summer  sunset.  '?  There 
is  not  much  snow  left  now,  is  there?" 

"The  rice   is  coming  on  well  hereabouts"  remarked  Mrs. 


250 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


Nambo.  "It  will  soon  be  fit  to  cut;  "  adding,  as  though  talking 
to  herself,  "  Inari  has  been  very  benevolent  this  year.  He  has 
given  the  farmers  good  crops." 

Upon  reaching  the  Shimbashi  depot,  they  were  greeted  by 
Choso,  Gosuke,  Sobei,  and  their  other  jin-riki-ska  men,  who 
bowed  and  said,  "A  hundred  thousand  welcomes!  We  salute 
you  respectfully  on  your  return  home." 


GOLD    FISH   OF    NAGOYA    CASTLE. 


A  JAPANESE    DRY    GOODS    STORE.  251 


CHAPTER   IX. 

A  JAPANESE    DRY-GOODS    STORE. 

"  The  rain  descends  steadily.     Only  the  umbrella  men  and  the  frogs  feel  cheerful. 
In  the  ninth  month,  every  dry  day  can  be  taken  for  a  holiday." 


continual  rain  is  dreadful,"  said  Sallie,  one  morning,  as 
-L  she  ruefully  regarded  the  downpour.  "  I  do  not  believe 
we  have  had  twenty-four  hours'  sunshine  since  we  returned 
home." 

"Oh,  I  like  it!  "  said  Fitz.  "I  have  written  to  all  my  old 
schoolfellows,  and  have  studied  very  hard.  I  think  the 
weather  is  just  splendid." 

"  Don't  tease  so,  Fitz  Jewett,"  retorted  the  girl.  "  I  want 
to  go  down  to  the  Dai  Maru  and  buy  some  crepe  cotton,  as  a 
present  for  Cho.  This  wexather  is  very  annoying.  You  know 
you  dislike  it  as  much  as  I  do." 

"What  is  the  Dai  Maru?"  bluntly  demanded  the  boy. 

"  I  thought  every  child  in  the  empire  knew  that  celebrated 
Gofuka-ya  (dry-goods  store).  It  is  the  Stewart's  of  Tokio." 

"The  weather  will  clear  presently,"  said  Johnnie,  entering. 
:?  Why  do  you  annoy  Sallie  so,  Fitz?" 

"I  do  not  annoy  you,  do  I?  "  said  the  boy.  "Now,  as  soon 
as  breakfast  is  over,  I  will  order  our  jin-riki-sha  and  will 
accompany  you  anywhere.  I  know  a  store  in  Uyeno  where 
you  can  buy  beautiful  things." 

"  I  will  go,  too,"  remarked  Johnnie. 

The  lad  proved  to  be  a  reliable  weather  prophet,  for,  by  the 
time  the  meal  was  over,  the  rain  had  ceased  and  the  sun  was 
shining  brightly. 


252  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

:r  Where  to,  Ojo  San?"  said  old  Sobei,  as  Sallie  entered 
her  vehicle. 

"To  the  Kadzusa  dry-goods  store  in  Uyeno,"  replied  Fitz. 

Away  they  went,  and  on  quitting  the  gate,  encountered 
Oto,  whose  jin-riki-sha  was  spattered  all  over  with  mud. 

w  Come  with  us,"  said  Johnnie.     :?  You  are  just  in  time." 

After  riding  awhile  they  reached  an  imposing  establishment 
on  the  corner  of  a  street. 

The  little  white  awning  under  the  eaves  of  the  store,  bore 
three  characters,  Kadzu-sa-ya,  and  a  vertical  sign  projecting 
on  the  street  was  inscribed  on  the  top  in  small  letters,  Genkin 
(one  price),  and  in  larger,  Go  jfuko  jfuto-mono  rtii  o-yasui 
uri  (Dry  goods  and  cotton  cloth  of  various  kinds  sold  here 
cheap  for  cash).  At  the  right  of  this,  shading  the  corner  of 
the  house,  was  a  sloping  curtain,  marked  at  the  top  with  the 
same  inscription  as  the  board,  and  stamped  with  a  large  circle 
in  which  was  the  character  Hisa  (long  established),  and  be- 
neath it  the  title  Kadzusa  store.  This  curtain  was  held  upon 
the  ground  by  two  weights,  secured  to  the  ends  of  a  bamboo 
run  through  its  lower  loops. 

A  girl  was  seated,  buying  cotton  cloth,  the  merits  of  which 
were  earnestly  explained  by  a  clerk,  who,  in  his  endeavors  to 
be  respectful,  craned  his  neck  in  a  very  comical  fashion.  Be- 
hind him  knelt  an  assistant,  measuring  goods  with  a  bamboo 
stick. 

The  shelves  were  filled  with  fabrics,  the  better  kinds  of 
which  were  wrapped  in  paper  or  covered  with  yellow  muslin. 

The  customer  paid  for  her  purchase,  and,  balancing  herself 
on  her  high  clogs,  started  homeward. 

Sallie  and  her  party  quitted  their  vehicles,  and  seating 
themselves  on  the  edge  of  the  shop-board,  asked  to  be  shown 
some  goods. 


A  JAPANESE    DRY    GOODS    STORE.  253 

?  They  have  no  saleswomen  here,"  said  Sallie. 

!?  Salesladies,"  said  Fitz,  correcting  her.  :'  That  is  what 
you  ought  to  call  them.  The  advertisements  always  run, 
*  Wanted  a  saleslady,  must  be  a  good  dresser,  salary  four 
dollars  a  week.'" 

T  Woman  is  an  honorable  term,"  answered  his  sister,  then, 
turning  to  the  clerk,  she  inquired,  "  Why  do  you  not  employ 
girls  ?  " 

The  man  bowed,  sucked  in  his  breath,  and  said,  "  That 
would  be  impossible.  In  order  to  acquire  this  business  one  has 
to  begin  very  young  by  serving  tea  to  customers,  then  gradually 
we  learn  how  to  show  goods  to  advantage,  and  to  describe  their 
qualities.  For  fifteen  years  we  only  receive  our  board  and 
clothes.  After  that  we  get  a  present  and  are  allowed  to  have 
goods  on  credit,  and  to  start  as  peddlers,  always  announcing 
from  what  store  we  come.  If  we  were  to  steal  one  rin,  we 
should  be  dismissed  without  receiving  any  pay,  but  this  seldom 
occurs,  hence  the  saying,  '  As  honest  as  a  dry-goods  man.' 
Girls  are  not  employed,  because  nearly  all  our  customers 
prefer  to  be  waited  upon  by  salesmen." 

"  Salesgentlemen,"  said  Sallie,  glancing  at  Fitz. 

:<:  Why  not?"  he  replied.  "Please  go  on  with  your  shop- 
ping, Miss  Jewett.  The  citizens  of  the  United  States  are  all 
supposed  to  be  gentlemen." 

The  attendant  served  each  visitor  with  tea,  then  the  young 
man  who  was  waiting  on  Sallie  bowed,  and  inquired,  "  What 
would  your  honorable  excellency  like  to  see?  " 

When  he  had  ascertained,  he  called  to  the  junior  clerks, 
who  went  into  the  fire-proof  warehouse,  and  returned,  bearing 
immense  piles  of  cloth  pieces,  each  of  which  was  wrapped  in  a 
paper. 

"  What  a  bewildering  variety  of  patterns,"  observed  John- 


254 


THE    WONDERFUL     CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


nie.     "  It  is  a  pity  the  stuffs  are  all  so  narrow.     I  have  seen 
lots  of  yard-wide  silks  in  some  of  the  stores." 

"  Then  they  were  not  made  in  Japan,"  replied  the  shopman. 
"  We  have  no  demand  for  wider  goods  than  these." 


DRY    GOODS    STOKE. 


Sallie  selected  quite  a  number  of  pieces,  and  as  she  paid 
the  bill,  said,  "Are  you  much  troubled  with  thieves?" 

"Yes,"  was  the  reply.  "We  call  them  ban-biki-jin  (ten 
thousand  pull  men).  They  are  a  great  nuisance." 

"  What  do  you  say  when  you  summon  your  boys  ?  "  asked 
Johnnie.  "  I  cannot  understand  you." 

:t  We  have  a  way  of  shouting,  and  each  shop  has  its  own 


A  JAPANESE    DRY    GOODS    STORE.  255 

slang,"  answered  the  man.  "  For  instance,  if  our  customers 
want  speckled  cloth,  we  call  for  hoar  frost." 

:?  The  waiters  in  some  American  restaurants  do  the  same 
thing,"  said  Fitz.  w  I  once  went  into  one  and  ordered  fish- 
balls,  when  the  man  called  for  two  sleeve-buttons.  I  was 
some  time  before  I  understood  what  he  meant." 

While  they  were  waiting  for  their  package  the  boys  no- 
ticed a  kuda-mono  uri  (fruit-seller),  on  the  other  side  of  the 
street. 

The  stall  consisted  of  a  board  laid  on  half  a  barrel,  and  the 
fruit  was  decorated  with  pine  branches,  each  kind  being 
ticketed  according  to  its  value,  one  sen,  two  sen,  three  sen, 
etc. 

By  the  side  of  the  stall  was  a  bucket  of  water  and  a  dipper, 
which  the  fruit-seller,  from  time  to  time,  used  to  moisten  his 
commodities. 

"  Nearly  all  of  that  man's  stock  is  unripe,"  said  Oto.  "  The 
pear  yonder  boy  is  eating  is  as  hard  as  a  turnip.  The  peach 
the  dealer  is  paring  is  as  green  as  grass,  and  those  long  melons 
are  totally  unfit  for  consumption." 

"  I  never  found  green  apples  disagree  with  me,"  said  Fitz, 
smiling  significantly.  "  Have  you,  Sallie?  " 

"I  am  sure  you  never  eat  such  dangerous  things,  did  you?" 
inquired  Oto. 

The  young  lady  bit  her  lips  and  looked  reproachfully  at  her 
brother,  but  did  not  reply. 

"Why  do  your  people  not  allow  the  fruit  to  ripen?"  said 
the  unabashed  Fitz. 

Oto,  who  was  laughing  to  himself,  said,  "  Our  country  folks 
are  afraid  of  the  thieves,  so  they  gather  their  peaches,  etcetera, 
as  soon  as  they  show  a  tinge  of  color." 

"  Yes,"  cried  Johnnie,  "  only  the  other  day  I  saw  Cho  eat- 


256 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


ing  green  plums  that  had  fallen  from  the  tree  in  front  of  our 
house." 

"And  —  she  —  still  lives,"  drawled  Fitz. 


FRUIT    PEDDLER. 


f  It  is  the  principal  cause  of  cholera  among  our  people," 
gravely  answered  the  young  doctor.  ;rYou  may  laugh,  Fitz, 
but  green  aoples  have  been  the  death  of  millions  of  boys  and 


girls." 


A  JAPANESE    DRY    GOODS    STORE. 


257 


"I  am  sorry,"  said  the  boy.  "Look  over  there  at  that 
kichibei  (lucky  rice-cake  seller).  He  is  the  first  I  have  seen 
since  we  returned  to  Tokio." 

The  individual  referred  to  wore  a  mask  of  Uzumd,  and  was 
attracting     an     audience     by 
dancing,  shouting,  and   sing- 
ing,— 

A.me-no  naka  kara  Otasan 
to  Kintasan  ga  tonde  deta 
yo  (candy,  which  if  cut  one 
way  shows  the  puffed  face  of 
Uzume,  and  if  cut  the  other 
exhibits  the  red  features  of 
Kintaro). 

The  street  children  gath- 
ered round  him,  and  laughed 
at  his  comical  gestures,  every 
now  and  then  clapping  their 
hands  to  encourage  his  ef- 
forts. 

He  stamped  alternately 
with  his  right  and  left  foot, 
twirled  round  and  round, 

crouched,  waved  his  fan  and  wagged  his  head,  then,  exposing 
his  wares,  renewed  his  song. 

Money  came  in  plentifully,  and  he  soon  lowered  his  stock. 
When  the  demand  slackened,  he  shouldered  his  box,  and  went 
off,  shouting,  ^  Karintoya!  Karintoyal™  (Quince  candy- 
seller). 

"Brothers,"  said  Sallie,  "we  had  better  be  moving  home,  I 
think  it  is  going  to  rain  again." 


LUCKY   RICE-CAKE   MAN. 


258  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

Their  jin-riki-sha  men  started  as  hard  as  they  could,  and  the 
vehicles  were  soon  in  sight  of  the  yashiki,  when  the  boys  saw 
a  Kusuri  uri  (street  medicine-seller),  whereupon  Fitz  insisted 
on  stopping  to  watch  him. 

rr  This  is  an  al  fresco  drug  store,"  said  Johnnie.  >?  What 
medicine  is  that  shock-headed  individual  putting  up?" 

"Hush,"  said  Oto.  :?The  man  studied  his  profession  in  a 
soda  water-seller's  in  the  States,  and  thinks  he  knows  as  much 
as  any  physician  in  the  Imperial  Hospital.  Do  you  not  ob- 
serve that  he  is  dressed  in  foreign  style?" 

"It  would  have  escaped  me  if  you  had  not  mentioned  the 
fact,"  said  Sallie. 

The  quack,  who  must  have  overheard  their  conversation, 
gravely  weighed  out  powders,  then  said  to  his  customer, 
r  These  are  very  good  for  the  cholera.  They  were  invented 
by  the  great  American  physician,  Dr.  B.  Q^.  Tompkins,  and 
are  infallible.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  sell  such  things,  as  there 
is  a  talk  of  cholera  being  about,"  —  adding,  as  he  handed  him 
the  package,  "  Have  you  anything  to  give  your  patrons  with 
this  preparation?" 

The  peddler  nodded,  and  replied,  "Yes.  If  any  one  buys 
five  sen  of  medicine,  I  give  them  a  one  sen  package  of  tooth- 
powder.  If  they  buy  ten  sen  worth,  I  make  them  a  present  of 
an  elegant  two  sen  fan."  Bowing  and  sucking  in  his  breath, 
"  Honorable  doctor,  I  will,  without  fail,  call  and  pay  you 
for  this  to-morrow  morning." 

:tThat  is  like  our  store-keepers  giving  away  a  chromo  with 
a  pound  of  tea.  After  all,  there  are  very  few  new  ideas  in  the 
world." 

"  Let  us  hurry  home,"  said  Johnnie. 

"Here  it  comes  again,"  exclaimed  Sallie,  as  she  sprang  out 


OPEN   AIR   DRUG   STORE. 


260  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

of  her  jin-riki-sha  and  ran  up  the  steps  of  the  veranda.     w  Oh, 
dear!  oh,  dear!  what  a  month  this  is  for  rain." 

Oto  regarded  her  good-humoredly,  and  answered,  w  If  we 
did  not  have  such  weather  in  September,  the  rice  would  not  be 
worth  anything.  Have  you  heard  the  saying,  '  When  the  ninth 
month  is  a  dry  one,  the  next  nine  will  be  hungry  ones.'" 


HARVESTING    THE    RICE.  261 


CHAPTER  X. 

HARVESTING   THE    RICE. 

"  When  the  benevolent  Inari  (God  of  Rice)  smiles  upon  the  husbandmen,  the 
farmer's  son  says  to  his  companion,  — '  Shobei,  I  am  soon  going  to  have  a  new  kimono 
(coat).' " 

ONE  morning  in  October,  Professor  Jewett  sat  in  the 
veranda  of  his  home,  watching  a  sakana-uri  (fish- 
seller)  who  was  offering  his  wares  to  a  Japanese  lady  living 
near  them. 

The  man  was  dressed  in  coarse,  blue  cotton  clothes,  with 
the  inevitable  pipe  and  tobacco  pouch  slung  at  his  girdle,  and 
carried  a  shallow  tub  filled  with  various  kinds  offish,  the  qual- 
ities of  which  he  explained  in  a  loud  voice. 

The  approach  to  all  Japanese  houses  is  provided  with  step- 
ping-stones or  blocks  of  wood,  that  rise  like  islands  out  of  an 
ocean  of  mud  or  a  desert  of  dust. 

"No  doubt  those  are  exceedingly  fresh,"  said  the  lady, 
"  but  my  husband  now  only  eats  meat.  Since  his  return  from 
foreign  countries,  he  will  not  look  at  fish.  I  find  beef  a  very 
good  thing  for  my  complexion." 

The  dealer  regarded  her  impudently  and  replied,  —  "  Beef 
is  all  very  well  for  wrestlers.  Ladies  do  not  want  to  have  red 
faces.  I  will  take  my  fish  where  they  will  be  appreciated." 

"Is  he  not  saucy?"  said  Sallie,  joining  her  father.  "Mrs. 
Hana  has  a  right  to  eat  what  she  pleases.  Have  you  seen  the 
boys?" 

"  Here  they  come,"  answered  the  Professor. 


262 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"  Oh,  sister!  "  exclaimed  Fitz,  "  you  have  missed  something. 
We  have  been  for  a  walk  and  encountered  several  very  comi- 
cal objects." 

?Yes,"   remarked   Johnnie,   "we   saw  an   amai  sakt-uri 


FISH-SELLER. 


(peddler  of  sweet  wine)  outside  a  restaurant  near  Suruga  dai. 
Some  pilgrims  had  just  arrived  from  Fuji  and  had  given  their 
flags  to  the  keeper  of  the  refreshment  place.  One  of  the  ban- 
ners bore  a  picture  of  the  mountain,  and  was  inscribed  with 


264 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


the  characters  Narita  san,  and   another  hung  just  below  it 
bore  the  legend  Ko-gu  Guild." 

T  Yes,"  said  Fitz,  with  a  nod,  "  but  the  amai-sake-uri  was 
a  curiosity.  He  had  two  boxes,  one  of  which  contained  a  lit- 
tle furnace,  surmounted  with  a  copper  vessel  full  of  sweet 

wine,  while  the  other 
was  inscribed  amai- 
sake,  and  held  his  cups, 
trays  and  other  articles. 
He  was  very  thin,  and 
was  so  polite  to  his  cus- 
tomers that  he  crouched 
even  when  he  walked. 
Johnnie  and  I  patronized 
the  old  fellow,  but  we 
only  tasted  the  stuff.  He 
charged  three  sen  for  a 
big  cupfull." 

"We  also  saw  the 
dai-ku-  gora  (street- 
jugglers),"  continued 
Johnnie.  rf  They  were 
outside  a  fashionable 
tea-house  and  were  at- 


I'EDDLER    OF    SWEET   WINE. 


tracting  the  attention  of 


its    patrons.     The   elder 

performer  was  a  very  big  man  with  nostrils  that  appeared  to 
have  quarrelled  with  one  another,  they  were  so  wide  apart. 
He  kept  three  balls  in  the  air  at  once  and  sent  them  whirling 
through  a  bamboo  basket.  Then  the  dancer  held  up  a  bag  and 
caught  them,  which  so  overjoyed  the  ball-player's  son  that  he 
raised  his  hands  above  his  head  and  hopped  round  and  round, 


shrieking, 


c  Oh,  very  good!      Oh,  very  good! ' 


STREET    JUGGLER. 


266 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


"  We  met  another  kappore"  said  Fitz.  "  He  was  exceed- 
ingly funny,  and  wore  a  domino  and  a  curious  white  head-dress 
decorated  with  a  mask  of  Uzume.  He  played  a  samisen  and 
as  he  danced  sang  and  hopped  first  on  one  foot  and  then 
on  the  other.  A  boy,  who  was  passing,  said  to  him, — 


KAPPORE. 


?  Why  don't  you   move  quicker?      In    my  part  of  the    coun- 
try, even  the  bears  caper  more  rapidly  than  you  do.' ' 

'Teh!r-    shouted     the    kappore,    tuning    his    instrument. 
tr  Any  one  can  see  you  came  from  Yeso." 

r  Dr.  Nambo  is  at  the  gate,"  said  Cho. 

"  I  am  glad  he  has  arrived,"  exclaimed  Sallie.     "  Boys,  go 
and  bring  him  here." 


HARVESTING    THE    RICE. 


267 


In  a  few  moments  Oto  made  his  appearance,  and,  after  salut- 
ing his  friends,  observed,  — «  What  do  you  say  ?  Will  you  run 
down  to  Kamakura?  Do  you  not  want  to  have  another  look 
at  the  Dai-Butsu?  If  you  hurry  up  we  can  catch  the  next 
train  to  Yokohama  and  take  jin-riki-sha  from  there.  My 
father  and  mother  wish  to  join  us.  Why  cannot  your  parents 
go  too  ?  M 


HARVESTING     RICE. 


Everything  was  soon  arranged  and  the  party  started. 
There  are  many  rice  fields  between  Tokio  and  the  port,  so  the 
young  Americans  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  crop  har- 
vested. 

Women  and  men,  armed  writh  quaintly  shaped  sickles,  were 
cutting  the  partly  ripe  grain  or  tying  it  into  bundles,  which  they 
fastened  to  high  racks,  in  order  that  it  might  dry  and  harvest. 

As  the  train  passed,  the  laborers  would  pause  in  their  oc- 
cupation and  gape  at  the  swiftly  moving  carriages,  then  resume 
their  work  with  a  will. 


268 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


In  some  places  the  land  was  so  wet  that  the  rice  had  to  be 
carried  a  long  distance  to  the  drying  frames  or  was  laid  on 
coarse  matting  upon  the  ground. 


CUTTING   THE   RICE. 


f  There  is  a  kome-tsuki  (rice-cleaner)  at  work,"  said  Mrs. 
Nambo.  "What  strength  he  must  have  to  use  that  heavy  mal- 
let. Do  you  observe  the  cord  round  his  waist  and  that  stout 
loop  of  cotton  cloth  in  which  he  rests  the  butt  of  his 
pounder? 


HARVESTING    THE    RICE.  269 

"  He  wears  an  apron,"  remarked  Sallie. 

'They  all  do,"  answered  the  old  lady.  "See  the  chicken 
near  him.  We  have  a  saying,  'If  you  want  to  find  your  hen, 
go  to  where  the  kome-tsuki  is  working.' " 


RICE-CLEANER. 


"  How  do  they  clean  the  grain  ?  "  inquired  Fitz. 

:?  They  put  the  rough  mome  into  the  mortar,"  answered 
Mr.  Nambo,  "then  pound  it  with  that  heavy  mallet  and  the 
friction  separates  the  husks  from  the  rice." 

"Here  we  are  at  Yokohama,"  said  Sallie.  "How  beauti- 
ful the  bay  looks." 


270  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Our  jin-riki-sha  are  waiting  for  us,"  said  Oto.  "I  have 
ordered  you  some  good  strong  runners,  who  can  make  the  jour- 
ney quickly." 

They  entered  the  vehicles  and  started  at  a  rapid  pace,  only 
stopping  for  a  short  time  at  Kanazawa  to  give  their  men  a 
rest. 

When  they  arrived  at  the  boundary  line  between  the  prov- 
inces of  Musashi  and  Sagami,  Fitz  pointed  to  a  stone  figure, 
carved  in  the  rock  by  the  wayside,  and  said,  —  "What  do  you 
call  that?" 

*'Hanakake  Jizo  "  (the  noseless  Jizo),  said  Mrs.  Nambo. 
"Would  you  like  to  make  a  little  offering  to  him?  " 

The  boy  shook  his  head,  noticing  which  the  good  old  lady 
sighed  and  did  not  volunteer  any  more  information. 

The  friends  arrived  in  Kamakura  as  the  sun  was  setting,  so 
had  no  time  to  see  the  Dai-Butsu  that  night. 

The  next  clay  they  were  up  bright  and  early,  and  visited  the 
temple  of  Hachiman,  where  Fitz  almost  ruined  himself  by  his 
lavish  patronage  of  the  mame-uri  (bean-seller.) 

One  old  woman,  who  kept  a  stall  near  the  main  temple, 
was  chatting  with  a  nurse  and  two  children  who  were  watch- 
ing a  fat  rooster  filling  his  crop  with  the  grain  intended  for  the 
opal-breasted  doves.  The  boy  on  the  servant's  back  was  in  a 
high  state  of  excitement,  and  his  brother,  who  was  mounted 
upon  thick  clogs,  jumped  backwards  and  forwards  and  yelled, 
"  Oh,  go  away !  go  away,  greedy  bird !  Let  the  pigeons 
come." 

He  had  a  red  fringed  purse  suspended  from  his  girdle, 
which  was  tied  in  a  big  knot  behind  his  back. 

The  mame-uri  doled  out  her  stock  in  trade  in  small  saucers 
and  kept  her  receipts,  consisting  of  brass  cash  and  tempo,  on 
skewers  inserted  in  a  little  slab  of  pine  wood. 


HARVESTING    THE    RICE. 


27I 


While  the  strangers  were  watching  the  scene,  they  heard 
a  whirring  sound,  and  presently  a  flock  of  pigeons  alighted  all 
around  them. 

*  Why  do  they  always  have  so  many  doves  in  the  temple 
of  the  god  of  War?"  asked  Sallie. 

Mrs.  Nambo  inclined  her  head  and  replied  in  her  gentle 
way, —  "Those  birds  are 
Hachiman's  messengers. 
When  he  wishes  to  com- 
municate with  another  god, 
he  dispatches  one  of  those 
beautiful  creatures." 

They  ascended  the  hill 
and  visited  the  grave  of 
Yoritomo,  before  which 
they  found  an  offering  of 
lovely  flowers. 

"  I  wonder  who  brought 
these  here,"  said  Fitz.  "  I 
do  not  see  why  they  should 
make  such  a  fuss  about 
Yoritomo.  No  doubt  he 
was  a  great  man,  but  one 
can  never  forget  that  he 
caused  his  brother,  Yosit- 
sune,  to  be  assassinated.  He  did  not  gain  the  decisive  victo- 
ries over  the  Taira,  and  he  killed  both  the  men  who  did,  one 
of  whom  was  his  own  brother." 

"He  was  successful,"  said  Johnnie.      "I   suppose   that  is 
why  he  is  not  forgotten.     Nothing  succeeds  like  success." 

About  five  o'clock  they  once  more  visited  the  Dai-Butsu* 

*  Vide.  —  Young  Americans  in  Japan,  p.  377. 


SIDE    VIEW   OF   DAI-BUTSU. 


272  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

(image  of  Buddha).  The  sun  was  setting  as  they  regarded 
the  grand  statue  from  the  hillside  on  its  right. 

"Ah!"  exclaimed  the  Professor,  "there  it  sits,  calm  and 
majestic,  the  embodiment  of  the  faith  that  has  enchained  mil- 
lions." 

:c  Yes,"  added  Fitz,  to  the  amusement  of  his  mother,  "  and 
that  pilgrim  is  walking  over  the  majestic  bronze  and  sounding 


GRAVE    OF    YORITOMO    AT    KAMAKURA. 


it  with  his  staff,  as  a  railway  employee  does  the  axles  of  the  car- 
wheels.  Hear  how  it  chinks." 

"Brother,  I  am  afraid  you  will  never  be  a  poet,"  said 
Sallie. 

"  I  hope  not,"  was  the  unabashed  reply.  "  I  intend  to  be  a 
lawyer.  I  wonder  how  much  money  it  cost  to  make  that  fig- 
ure ?  Oto,  I  suppose  you  call  it  one  of  the  wet  gods." 

While  he  was  speaking,  they  saw  a  number  of  foreigners 
ascend  to  the  lap  of  the  statue  and  group  themselves  on 
Buddha's  jointed  thumbs. 

Presently  a  quavering  sound  of  singing  proceeded  from  the 
new-comers,  on  hearing  which  Mrs.  Nambo  innocently  in- 
quired,—  "What  is  the  matter  with  those  people?" 


HARVESTING    THE    RICE.  273 

e  They  are  worshipping,"  said  Fitz.  "  Do  you  know,  some 
travellers  think  the  correct  thing  to  do  at  Kamakura  is  to 
mount  upon  Buddha's  thumb  and  sing  the  doxology?  " 

The  good  old  lady,  who  was  puzzled  at  this  reply,  regarded 
the  eccentric  group  and  murmured  to  herself,  —  "I  suppose  it 
is  one  of  their  religious  ceremonies.  What  strange  beings 
these  Americans  are!" 


274  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

A    RAMBLE    IN    THE     STREETS. 

"  When  the  gods  created  the  flowers,  they  chose  the  most  superb. 
Among  which  were  the  lotus,  the  tree  peony,  and  the  chrysanthemum  ; 
The  last,  the  emblem  of  the  sun,  unfolds  its  glory  in  the  eleventh  month." 

ONE  November  morning,  Sallie  Jewett  stood  at  the  window 
of  her  room,  watching  a  man  who  was  moving  stealthily 
about  the  grounds  of  the  yashiki. 

He  was  comfortably  dressed,  in  well-worn  cotton  clothes 
carried  a  pipe  and  tobacco-pouch,  suspended  from  the  right 
side  of  his  girdle,  had  a  basket  with  a  trap  mouth  tied  about 
his  \vaist,  and  wore  the  left  sleeve  of  his  dress  looped  up  with 
a  towel.  He  also  had  a  mushroom-shaped  sun-hat  on  his  head, 
and  carried  in  his  hand  a  long,  light  bamboo,  which  he  ma- 
noeuvred in  a  very  peculiar  way.  He  slunk  along  as  though 
ashamed  of  what  he  was  about,  peeped  round  corners  with  a 
furtive  air,  and  conducted  himself  like  one  who  is  engaged  in  a 
disreputable  business. 

"  I  wonder  what  he  is  after,"  murmured  the  girl. 

"Don't  you  know,  Sallie?"  said  Fitz,  who,  with  his  brother 
had  silently  joined  her.  "  That  is  a  tori-sashi.  You  will  hear 
him  call  presently." 

As  the  boy  spoke,  the  man  put  an  instrument  between  his 
lips  and  twittered  just  like  a  sparrow.  A  number  of  the  birds 
answered  him  and  flew  down  from  the  trees  to  attack  the  new- 
comer, when,  quick  as  thought,  he  made  a  pass  at  them  with 
his  bamboo  and  entangled  the  feathers  of  one  of  the  plump 
little  fellows  in  the  tori-moch /(bird-lime),  with  which  the  rod 


A    RAMBLE    IN    THE    STREETS. 


275 


BEAN-SELLER. 


was  tipped.  As  he  removed  the  trembling  prisoner  and 
transferred  it  to  his  basket,  he  noticed  the  young  Americans, 
and  said,  "  Honorable  master  boys,  do  you  want  some  nice 


276 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


sparrows  for  your  breakfast?  I  can  sell  you  a  lot  of  beauties 
at  three  sen  each." 

"  You  wicked  man,"  indignantly  answered  Sallie.  "  I 
thought  you  Buddhists  never  ate  anything  that  had  lived?" 

The    bird-catcher    smiled,    bowed    and    politely   replied, 


BIRD-CATCHER. 


w  Honorable    young  lady,  I    am    not  a  Buddhist,  though,  for 
the  matter  of  that,  everybody  likes  a  nice  broiled  sparrow." 

:r  Yes,  and  we  are  going  to  have  some  for  breakfast,"  said 
Fitz.  "  Come  along,  sissy,  and  let  the  man  pursue  his  honor- 
able occupation." 


SQUASH    SELLER. 


278  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

At  first  Sallie  protested  that  she  would  never  eat  the  poor 
little  creatures,  however,  when  some  of  them  were  placed 
upon  the  breakfast  table,  she  forgot  all  about  the  way  they  had 
been  captured,  and  enjoyed  them  as  much  as  any  one. 

After  the  meal  was  over  Oto  came  in,  and  proposed  they 
should  go  to  the  Hana  yashiki  at  Asakusa,  and  see  the  chrys- 
anthemums. 

:f  Will  you  accompany  us,  mother?"  asked  Fitz. 

"No,  we  will  go  later  in  the  month,"  replied  Mrs.  Jewett. 
"  I  have  something  to  do  to-day,  and  your  father  will  not 
return  from  the  college  until  late." 

The  young  people  bade  her  adieu  and  soon  were  on  their 
way,  laughing,  chatting,  and  enjoying  the  beautiful  cool 
morning. 

"My  gracious!"  said  Johnnie,  as  they  descended  the  hill, 
"  look  at  that  tonasu-uri  (squash-seller).  What  a  queer  shape 
the  vegetables  are." 

"  Only  the  very  poorest  of  our  people  buy  those  things," 
said  Oto.  "They  are  considered  to  be  inferior  food.  Gentle- 
men seldom  partake  of  them." 

"  Of  course  you  never  make  pumpkin-pies,"  said  Fitz, 
adding  to  his  brother,  "  What  are  you  staring  at,  Johnnie?  " 

"At  that  octopus  the  woman  is  carrying.  It  is  laughing," 
he  replied.  "  Although  she  has  run  a  cord  through  its  body,  it 
is  moving  its  tentacles." 

"Did  you  ever  see  such  ankles  as  hers?"  whispered  Fitz. 

"  Hush,"  said  Sallie.  "  Let  us  hear  what  the  man  is 
saying." 

"  Honorable  wife,"  derisively  exclaimed  the  tonasu-urij 
"  stop  one  moment  and  look  at  my  stock.  It  is  no  use  pretend- 
ing that  you  don't  like  pumpkins.  Why,  you  have  a  pumpkin 
face." 


A    RAMBLE    IN    THE    STREETS. 


279 


replied.     "Go    home.      I  have  no    pumpkin 
money.     If  you  choose  to  give  me  one  I  will  take  it." 

They  left  the  pair  bantering  each  other  and  indulging  in 


loud  laughter. 


MAKER    OF    BROILED    BEAN-CURD. 


w  See,"  said  Johnnie,  "  there  is  a  tofu-yaku-ya  (broiled 
bean-curd  seller).  Let  us  stop  and  buy  some." 

The  shop  consisted  of  one  room,  divided  by  a  screen,  and 
was  occupied  by  the  tradesman  and  his  wife,  who  worked  to- 
gether and  seemed  to  be  very  happy  and  prosperous. 


280 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


The  party  halted,  and  Sallie  asked  the  woman,  "  How  do 
you  make  that  food  ?  " 

The  proprietress  bowed  until  the  child  on  her  back  almost 
slipped  over  her  head,  then  said,  "  We  soak  the  best  white 

beans  in  yonder 
tub,"  pointing  be- 
hind her.  "My 
husband  grinds 
them  between  those 
circular  pieces  of 
wood,  and  as  the 
soft  paste  runs  out, 
he  collects  it  in  the 
ladle  he  holds  in 
his  left  hand.  We 
strain  it  through  a 
sieve  and  boil  it, 
then  turn  the  mass 
into  a  cloth  and 
press  out  the  water. 
The  tofu  (bean 
cheese)  which  is 
left  is  very  tender 
and  nice.  Some 
people  prefer  it 
cold,  like  this  in 
the  baskets  on  my 
right,  others  want  it  broiled.  You  see  I  am  cooking  a  num- 
ber of  slices.  When  one  side  is  done  I  turn  it  over." 

While  speaking,  she  pointed  to  some  oblong  cakes  of  tofu, 
resting  upon  the  iron  bars  of  a  trough-like  fire-box,  upon 
the  counter  before  her. 


VENDOR  OF  A  HOT  INFUSION  OF  LOQUAT-LEAVES. 


A    RAMBLE    IN    THE    STREETS. 


28l 


:?  Why  do  you  use  that  fan?  "  asked  Sallie. 
'To  keep  the   charcoal    in  a    glow,"  replied    the  woman. 
;f  Your  tofu  yaku  is  now  ready.     Eat  it  while  it  is  hot." 

The  young  Americans  partook  of  the  food,  but,  as  Fitz 
said,  did  not  hanker  after  more  than  one  portion  each,  the 
article  not  being  as 
tempting  to  them  as 
some  other  Japanese 
preparations. 

A  little  farther  on 
they  encountered  a 
jovial-looking  Japan- 
ese, who,  as  Johnnie 
observed,  was  carry- 
ing his  store  about 
with  him. 

The  apparatus 
consisted  of  two  ob- 
long lacquer  boxes 
connected  by  a  wood- 
en bar,  and  holding 
tubs,  bowls,  and 
other  appurtenances 
of  his  trade. 

Sallie  read  the 
inscriptions  on  the 
cases  which  ran  as 

follows :  In  front,  written  horizontally,  were  two  characters,  kan 
kiyo,  signifying  licensed.  Then  a  circle  in  which  was  de- 
picted a  three-legged  crow  (a  mythical  bird)  regarded  as  lucky 
by  the  Japanese,  who  say  when  you  meet  a  three-legged  crow, 
you  will  be  fortunate.  Below  this  picture  was  inscribed 


PAPER    STORE. 


282  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

Kioto  Hon-ke  (original  house  of  Kioto).  The  sides  of  the. 
box  bore  the  inscription  Biwa-yoto  (loquat-leaf  tea). 

On  seeing  the  foreigners,  the  man  placed  his  boxes  on  the 
ground  and  bowing,  said,  — "  Honorable  strangers,  will  you  try 
some  of  my  delicious  beverage?" 

"Yes,  go  ahead  and  serve  us,"  said  Fitz. 

The  fellow  quickly  produced  some  little  cups  and  fanning 
the  charcoal  fire  that  warmed  the  liquid,  suavely  remarked,  — 
"  It  is  getting  late  for  my  business.  I  come  up  from  Kioto 
with  the  butterflies.  Now  that  the  weather  is  growing  cool, 
people  do  not  want  medicine  to  correct  the  hot  principle. 
Still,  Biwa  tea  is  a  very  good  thing  at  any  time." 

As  he  spoke,  he  ladled  out  some  of  the  beverage,  and 
bowing,  said, —  "Everything  is  now  ready  for  your  honorable 
approval." 

His  customers  sipped  the  tea  and  Sallie  said,  —  "  It  tastes 
like  orange-flower  water." 

"There  is  a  fly  in  mine,  so  I  cannot  tell  what  it  might  taste 
like  without  it,"  said  Fitz,  pointing  to  something  black  among 
the  dregs  in  his  cup.  "Oto,  I  do  not  think  your  hot  drinks 
amount  to  much." 

rr  You  do  not  come  from  Kioto,"  said  the  young  doctor  to 
the  man. 

The  fellow  grinned,  bowed  and  replied,  — "  Honorable  Sir, 
I  am  afraid  you  recognize  me;  my  name  is  Goro.  You  were 
very  kind  to  me  when  I  was  in  the  hospital.  I  have  an  honor- 
able mother  and  a  wife  and  family  to  keep,  so  I  am  sometimes 
obliged  to  pretend  to  be  what  I  am  not'.  In  the  spring  I  sell 
an  infusion  of  ginger,  to  warm  people;  in  summer,  biwa-tea  to 
cool  them;  and  in  winter  I  do  anything.  As  to  Kioto,  my 
honorable  mother  left  that  place  when  she  was  first  married, 
so  I  consider  that  I  came  from  there." 


284  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"With  the  butterflies?"  slyly  inquired  Fitz. 

They  paid  him  a  few  cash  and  left  the  merry  fellow  shout- 
ing, —  ^Biwa-yo  !  Biiva-yo  !  " 

When  the  party  neared  Asakusa,  they  halted  before  a 
kami-ya  (paper  store),  in  which  sat  a  man  warming  his  hands 
at  the  hibachi. 

In  front  of  the  establishment  were  bales  of  paper,  strongly 
bound  with  rattan  cords  and  from  the  eaves  depended  four 
signs. 

Number  one  bore  a  picture  of  the  copper  handles  used  on 
the  paper  inner  doors  and  sliding  screens  of  the  Japanese 
houses,  and  was  inscribed,  —  *On  hiki  te  Suhin"  (all  kinds 
of  door  handles  sold  here). 

Number  two  had  on  its  sides,  ^ Dai  fuku  chio"  (cash 
books),  and  on  its  front  edge  was  ^Atsu  surai"  (made  to 
order) . 

Number  three  read  ^Atsu  raion"  beneath  which  were  the 
characters  ^Kara  kami  ji"  (all  kinds  of  paper  for  sliding 
doors) . 

Number  four  had  two  vertical  inscriptions,  namely  ^Shio- 
ga-yo  shi-rui"  (all  kinds  of  paper  used  for  writing  and  paint- 
ing), and  ^ Oni  te  hon-sui"  (all  kinds  of  copying  books). 

Number  five,  the  sloping  awning  which  shaded  the  store- 
keeper from  the  sun,  bore  the  trade-mark  and  an  inscription 
Kami  rui"  (all  kinds  of  paper).  The  narrow  strip  of  white 
cloth  under  the  eaves  was  marked  with  three  characters 
**Saku-ya"  (manufacturer's  store). 

Before  the  place  was  a  barrel  marked.  "Water  stored  for 
use  in  case  of  fire.'" 

"That  is  a  manufacturing  stationer's,"  said  Oto.  "He  is 
well-known  and  does  a  very  large  business.  Whatever  you 
buy  of  him  is  sure  to  be  of  very  good  quality.  Let  us  go  on, 
we  are  close  to  Asakusa/' 


A    RAMBLE    IN    THE    STREETS.  285 

They  entered  the  temple  grounds  and  spent  three  hours  in 
viewing  the  chrysanthemum  blossoms,  then  wandered  toward 
the  exhibitions  of  the  so-called  wax-works  and  the  shows  con- 
taining various  rare  animals. 

"Walk  in,  honorable  foreign  gentlemen,"  said  one  of  the 
proprietors.  "  I  have  on  view  a  genuine  Okami  (Japanese 
wolf)  Cants  Hodophylax.  It  has  eaten  five  hundred  men 
and  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  creatures  in  existence." 

"Are  you  afraid  to  go  in,  Sallie?"  asked  Johnnie. 

"Not  with  you,"  she  replied.  "I  hope  the  Okami  will  not 
want  to  make  a  meal  of  us." 

Outside  the  booth  was  the  picture  of  an  enormous  creature 
with  a  tail  shaped  like  an  Indian  club,  and  inside  was  a  cage 
among  the  straw  of  which  was  coiled  a  miserable  cub  not 
much  bigger  than  a  cat. 

On  seeing  the  young  Americans  the  exhibitor  stirred  up 
the  poor  brute  with  a  stick  and  pompously  exclaimed, — "This 
okami  was  captured  in  the  island  of  Yeso,  where  it  had  killed 
and  eaten  over  one  thousand  people." 

"They  must  have  been  pigmies,"  said  Fitz,  as  though 
thinking  aloud. 

"  You  may  imagine  that  I  am  asserting  a  fiction,"  said  the 
man,  affecting  indignation.  "This  monster  was  the  terror  of 
the  country  for  miles  around.  Now,  honorable  gentlemen,  af- 
ter inspecting  this  ferocious  animal,  perhaps  you  will  kindly 
walk  out  and  make  room  for  some  one  else." 

The  half-starved  okami  gaped  wearily,  coiled  itself  down 
for  another  brief  doze  and  pretended  to  slumber,  and  its 
keeper  squatted  in  a  corner  of  the  room  and  attacked  a  bowl 

of  cold  boiled  rice. 

Oto  and  his  friends  then  inspected  the  wax-works,  which 
proved  to  be  exceedingly  life-like  figures  of  the  miracles  of 
Kuwannon,  the  goddess  being  modelled  in  various  shapes. 


286 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


The  men  who  had  charge  of  the  groups  gabbled  their  for- 
mula so  comically  that  Fitz  made  them  repeat  it  several  times; 
however,  they  soon  discovered  he  was  making  fun  of  them, 
and  sulkily  declined  to  comply  with  his  request. 


FARMERS    WINNOWING    RICE. 


"  Sallie,"  inquired  Oto,  "would  you  like  to  visit  a  farm- 
house in  the  suburbs.  I  have  a  patient  who  lives  beyond  the 
river,  suppose  we  pay  him  a  visit?  " 

They  found   their  jin-riki-sha  'waiting  at   the  entrance  to 


288  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

the  temple  grounds,  whither  they  had  been  sent  by  Mrs. 
Jewett.  In  a  short  time  the  friends  were  seated  and  en  route. 

After  crossing  the  Obashi,  they  found  themselves  in  quite  a 
rural  district,  where  the  farmers  were  busily  occupied  pre- 
paring the  grain  for  market. 

Large  mats  were  spread  upon  the  ground,  and  piles  of  rice 
were  heaped  on  them  to  sun  and  dry  for  the  mills.  The 
hiyaku-sho  (farmers),  who  wore  artistically-patched  clothes, 
had  wide,  scoop-like  baskets  which  they  filled  with  the  grain, 
then  raised  high  above  their  heads  and  emptied  upon  the  mats. 
As  the  rice  descended,  the  wind  blew  away  the  chaff  and  thus 
prepared  the  cereal  for  the  huller. 

The  young  people  rode  some  distance,  then  turned  into  a 
private  road,  and  presently  stopped  before  a  shed  where  two 
men  and  a  boy  were  grinding  rice.  The  farmer,  who  was 
superintending  the  operation,  bowed  to  Oto  and  said,  "  Honor- 
able doctor,  excuse  me  from  rising,  my  rheumatism  is  still  so 
bad  that  I  feared  I  should  again  have  to  come  to  you  for  advice. 
You  did  me  so  much  good  last  time,  I  have  no  longer  faith 
in  our  quacks." 

Oto  introduced  his  companions  to  the  man,  who,  when  they 
were  seated,  said  to  his  employees,  "Now,  show  these  honora- 
ble foreigners  how  you  make  rice-flour." 

The  head  laborer  took  some  of  the  hulled  grain  in  a  wicker- 
scoop  and  filled  the  funnel-shaped  hole  in  the  top  of  the  mill, 
then  with  his  companions  grasped  the  bar  and  walked  round 
and  round  with  it,  thus  moving  the  upper  section.  In  a  few 
seconds,  the  coarsely  ground  flour  began  to  drop  from  between 
the  surfaces,  and  soon  it  poured  out  in  little  streams.  The 
men  sang  as  they  worked,  and  made  more  noise  than  a  hun- 
dred American  laborers. 

When  they  paused  to  rest,  Sallie  asked,  "What  is  that 
apparatus  on  our  right?  " 


A    RAMBLE    IN    THE    STREETS.  289 

"A  rice-winnower,"  replied  the  farmer.  "We  are  not  like 
the  poor  hiyaku-sho  in  the  village.  We  clean  our  grain  thor- 
oughly. Have  you  any  agricultural  machines  in  your  honor- 
able country?  " 

:? You  make  me  smile,"  said  Fitz.  "Why,  we  prepare  our 
ground,  plant  our  cereals,  weed,  cultivate,  cut,  harvest,  and 
clean  them  by  machinery  driven  by  steam." 

"  How  do  your  farmers  employ  themselves?"  queried  their 
entertainer. 

"They  walk  round  and  boss  things,"  merrily  answered  the 
boy.  TYou  ought  to  go  to  America,  you  would  be  aston- 
ished." 

The  man  thought  a  while,  then  said,  w  I  suppose  we,  who 
have  never  been  in  your  honorable  land,  cannot  quite  compre- 
hend the  difference  between  your  ways  and  ours.  You  appear 
to  have  machines  to  do  everything,  so  of  course  your  people 
have  no  need  to  work." 

"Indeed  they  have,"  returned  the  boy.  "They  work  the 
machines.  Ah!  our  country  is  a  wonderful  one.  We  have 
bigger  farms,  broader  prairies,  more  extensive  forests,  enter- 
prising men  and  talented  women,  than  any  other  land  in  the 
world.  You  can  have  no  idea  what  it  is  like,  and  you  have 
much  to  learn  from  us." 

Their  host  smiled,  and,  bowing,  answered:  "Although  we 
are  very  ignorant  people,  still  we  have  been  permitted  to  live, 
and  have  somehow  contrived  to  exist  without  all  your  wonder- 
ful improvements.  If  I  were  to  use  the  machinery  you  tell  me 
about,  what  would  become  of  my  poor  workmen?  " 

:t  They  could  turn  farmers,"  said  the  boy.  "We  want  good 
men  in  the  States,  and  could  take  a  few  thousands  of  your  sur- 
plus population.  How  much  money  do  you  make  a-year?  " 

"  About  one  hundred  and  eighty  dollars,"  was  the  reply. 


290  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

"Buy  a  passage-ticket,  and  go  out  and  settle  in  South  Caro- 
lina," said  the  boy.  :?You  would  make  your  fortune  in  two 
years." 

The  man  listened  respectfully,  and  said,  "  My  father  taught 
me  to  work  in  one  way.  I  am  now  too  old  to  learn  new 
things;  but  if  my  son  chooses  to  go  abroad  he  can.  As  for 
myself,  I  shall  continue  to  plod  along  as  my  ancestors  have 
done." 

He  entertained  them  with  tea  and  cakes,  and  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  the  meal  accompanied  them  to  the  high  road. 

"  I  am  afraid  your  agricultural  class  is  not  progressive,"  re- 
marked Johnnie  to  Oto.  "  That  man  did  not  seem  to  under- 
stand what  we  said  to  him." 

The  young  doctor  laughed  quietly,  and  answered,  "When 
I  lived  in  New  England  I  met  several  of  your  farmers,  who 
were  almost  as  far  behind  your  Westerners  as  ours  are.  We 
are  going  fast  enough,  Johnnie.  A  hundred  years  from  this 
our  people  will  be  sending  agricultural  implements  to  your 
State  fairs.  Have  you  ever  heard  our  motto: 

'  He  who  progresses  slowly  generally  wins  the  race.'  " 


PREPARING    FOR    NEW-YEAR'S    FESTIVITIES.  29! 


CHAPTER   XII. 

PREPARING    FOR    NEW-YEAR'S    FESTIVITIES 

"  The  last  golden  glow  lingers  on  the  maples  of  Meguro ; 
The  mochi  men  are  beginning  to  appear  on  the  streets  ; 
These  things  are  signs  of  the  twelfth  month." 

young  Americans,  like  all  the  people  of  leisure  in 
-L  Tokio,  went  out  to  Meguro  to  see  the  glorious  foliage  of 
the  maples.  As  they  viewed  the  sight,  Sallie  said,  "  Oto,  this 
reminds  me  of  home;  however,  I  think  the  colors  of  your 
maples  are  more  brilliant  than  ours.  The  woods  look  as 
though  they  were  on  fire.  I  shall  try  and  secure  some  young 
trees  to  plant  at  Cromlech." 

"  Do  you  tap  your  maples  for  syrup  ?  "  inquired  Fitz. 

"  No,"  answered  Oto,  "  but  we  have  imported  a  vast  num- 
ber of  sugar-maples  and  they  are  doing  admirably.  We  can 
grow  almost  any  of  your  trees  here." 

The  friends  spent  nearly  the  whole  day  in  the  lovely  spot, 
and  saw  many  devotees  performing  penance  by  standing  for  a 
long  time  beneath  a  stream  of  water,  that  flowed  from  the 
mouth  of  a  brazen  dragon  near  the  temple  of  Kuwannon. 

As  they  returned  homeward  they  met  a  waiter  on  his  way 
to  a  restaurant,  at  the  entrance  of  which  was  suspended  a 
lantern  inscribed  with  the  characters  Go-shin-to  (God's  light). 
The  man  carried  on  his  left  hand  a  lacquer  tray  piled  with 
boxes  of  buckwheat-vermicelli,  which  he  balanced  with  the 
dexterity  acquired  by  long  practice.  In  his  girdle  was  tucked 
his  lantern,  bearing  the  name  of  his  employer's  house,  he  ya, 


292 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 


and    on    the   back    of  his    coat    was    a    circle    containing    his 
name. 

"  Let  us  follow  him  in  and  order  some  vermicelli,"  said 


WAITER   BRINGING  BUCKWHEAT   VERMICELLI   TO  A  RESTAURANT. 

Oto.     "  I  know  that  fellow,  he  belongs  to  a  first-rate  establish- 
ment." 

"I  do  not  care  about  soba  (buckwheat),"  said  Fitz.  "It 
reminds  me  of  cold  tripe.  Besides,  the  light  is  failing  and 
our  parents  are  expecting  us." 


PREPARING    FOR    NEW-YEAR'S    FESTIVITIES. 


293 


''You  are  right,"  said    Oto.      "To-morrow    I    shall    have 
another  holiday,  and  we  will  go  for  our  last  stroll  this  year." 

The  next  morning  Oto  called  for  them  early,  and  they 
started  out  for  a  long  walk.  After  quitting  the  yashiki,  they 
noticed  that  the  entrances  of  many  houses  were  decorated 
with  green  bamboo  and 
branches  of  pine-tree, 
emblems  of  the  new 
year. 

"Hello,"  said  Fitz, 
as  they  watched  a  boy 
flying  a  kite,  on  which 
was  depicted  a  cuttle- 
fish. "  Here  comes  a 
man-zai"  (New  Year's 
dancer). 

Presently  a  melan- 
choly-looking vaga- 
bond, who  wore  a  yebo- 
shi  (ceremonial  hat), 
perched  on  the  top  of 
his  head,  came  striding 
toward  them,  making  a 
great  clacking  with  his 
clogs  in  order  to  attract 
attention.  His  dress  was  marked  with  the  sign  san  (three), 
he  had  a  toy  sword  thrust  in  his  girdle,  and,  though  the 
weather  was  quite  cool,  he  carried  a  large  fan. 

Behind  him    came    his  assistant,  bearing  a   heavy  weight 
of  properties  tied  up  in  a  cotton  cloth. 

"What  is  the  meaning  ofmanzai?"  inquired  Johnnie. 

"  Literally  translated,  it  means  ten  thousand   years,  while 


MANZAI. 


294  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

really  it  is  a  form  of  congratulation.  That  fellow  is  evidently 
going  somewhere  to  give  an  entertainment,  and  will  not 
condescend  to  stop  and  amuse  us.  Which  way  shall  we 
go?" 

"  Towards  Asakusa,"  said  Sallie.  "  Cho  told  me  that  this 
is  the  festival  of  tori  no  machi,  the  last  day  of  the  rooster 
in  the  month.  I  want  to  buy  a  kumade  (bamboo  rake)." 

Oto  laughed,  and  replied,  "  So  you  wish  to  rake  in  good 
fortune  next  year.  Well,  you  shall  have  one,  Sallie." 

On  their  way  they  heard  a  drumming  noise,  and,  looking 
into  a  house,  beheld  two  children  at  play.  One,  who  wore 
a  fox's  mask,  was  dancing  and  waving  a  gohei,  while  the  other 
beat  a  drum.  Seeing  the  strangers  they  stopped  their  perfor- 
mance, and  the  elder  boy  said  to  the  other,  "  Look  at  those 
Chinese.  Are  they  not  comical?  " 

"  Don't  be  rude,"  said  Johnnie.  "  Go  on  with  your 
dancing." 

w  He  can  speak  our  language,"  said  the  drummer  to  his 
companion.  "  I  thought  those  barbarians  never  had  sense 
enough  for  that." 

"  Excuse  his  impudence,"  whispered  Oto  to  Sallie. 

"  He  is  not  as  bad  as  the  Cromlech  boys,"  answered  the 
girl.  "  For  one  rude  speech  made  to  us  in  Tokio,  fifty  were 
addressed  to  you  in  our  native  place.  What  people  are  those 
coming  towards  us?" 

r? Those  are  folks  who  have  been  to  buy  the  kumade"  said 
the  young  doctor.  "  The  one  on  the  right  bears  a  picture  of 
the  Takara-bune  (treasure-boat),  the  boy  is  carrying  a  rake 
decorated  with  a  picture  of  Ota  fuku  men  (goddess  of  good 
fortune)  and  the  one  borne  by  the  man  on  his  right  represents 
a  kane  bako  (money  safe.)" 

"  How  pretty  that  woman  looks  in  her  winter  hood,"  said 


PREPARING    FOR    NEW-YEAR^    FESTIVITIES.  2Q5 

Sallie.     w  It  is  much  more  becoming  than  those  worn  by  the 
men,  it  gives  the  latter  a  ferocious  appearance." 

*Why  do  some  people    buy  only  plain  rakes?"  inquired 
Johnnie. 


BOYS   AT   PLAY. 


K  It  is  all  according  to  the  state  of  one's  purse,"  answered 
their  friend.  "  Persons  who  are  not  well  off  can  only  afford  a 
plain  kumade;  others,  like  those  men  who  have  just  passed  us, 
spend  quite  a  sum,  thinking  to  attract  good  fortune  for  the  next 
year.  I  have  seen  rakes  that  cost  as  high  as  twenty-five  dol- 


296  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

lars  each.  On  New  Year's  day  every  house  in  Japan  will  be 
decorated  with  one  or  more  of  the  articles.  It  is  a  quaint  su- 
perstition, that  gives  employment  to  many  thousands  of  people." 

The  streets  about  the  temple  of  Asakusa  were  lined  with 
peddlers  selling  the  toys,  and  all  of  them  drove  a  brisk  trade. 

The  young  folks  amused  themselves  by  watching  the  inter- 
esting scene  and  did  not  return  home  until  dusk.  On  their 
way  they  encountered  a  yomi-uri  (pamphlet  peddler),  vending 
news  sheets  containing  sensational  accounts  of  imaginary  inci- 
dents. These  men  are  something  like  our  sellers  of  extras,  and 
afford  great  amusement  to  the  Tokio  street  boys. 

He  carried  a  lantern  over  his  shoulder  and  read  off  the  con- 
tents of  his  papers  in  a  comical  sing-song. 

"  Come,"  said  Oto,  "  I  promised  my  parents  to  take  you 
home  to  supper  with  me." 

"Very  well,"  said  Fitz,  "we  will  go,  and  I  will  buy  a  nice 
kumade  for  your  mother.  She  would  not  be  offended,  would 
she?" 

"  No,  indeed,"  answered  their  friend. 

They  invested  quite  liberally  in  the  lucky  toys  and  then 
proceeded  to  Oto's  house,  where  they  arrived  as  the  lamps 
were  being  lighted. 

Mrs.  Nambo  received  them  in  her  usual  kindly  manner, 
and  said, —  "You  have  come  just  in  time  to  see  my  husband 
make  his  first  offering  to  Yebis  and  Dai-koku.  We  have  long 
wished  to  have  those  figures  in  the  house,  and  now  he  has 
treated  himself  to  them.  Come  this  way." 

The  young  doctor  did  his  best  to  conceal  his  annoyance, 
then,  with  his  friends,  followed  his  mother. 

They  found  Mr.  Nambo  in  a  little  room  on  one  side  of 
which  was  a  raised  recess,  supporting  two  carved  figures,  Dai- 
koku,  the  god  of  wealth,  and  the  luck-bringing  Yebis. 


298 


THE    WONDERFUL    CITY   OF   TOKIO. 


In  front  of  the  figures  were  three  sambo  (stands)  support- 
ing respectively  two  cakes  of  mochi,  two  cooked  fishes,  and 
two  bottles  of  sake,  the  necks  of  which  were  stopped  with 
rolls  of  paper.  Two  candles,  on  tall  sticks,  and  two  oil  lamps 
flared  and  flickered,  partly  illuminating  the  quaint  scene. 

Mr.     Nambo,     who 

was  kneeling,  filled  a 
cup  with  sake  and  ex- 
tended it  towards  the 
gods,  then  drank,  which 
ceremony  he  repeated 
thrice.  Having  accom- 
plished this  he  rose  and 
saluting  his  visitors, 
said, — 

"What  I  have  done 
has  comforted  me  very 
much.  I  feel  sure  that 
both  of  the  gods  will 
extend  their  benevolent 


protection 
house      for 


over 
the 


my 
next 


year. 

?t  Yes,"  said  his  wife, 
"  if  Oto  would  only 
follow  your  example, 
how  happy  I  should 
be." 

The  doctor  shook  his  head  and  quietly  replied,  — "  Hon- 
orable mother,  although  it  would  afford  me  great  happiness  to 
give  you  pleasure,  still  I  could  not  perform  an  act  so  distasteful 
to  me  as  the  one  you  have  suggested.  After  living  so  long  in 


PAMPHLET-SELLER. 


PREPARING    FOR    NEW-YEAR  S    FESTIVITIES. 


299 


the  States,  I  do  not  feel  very  much  veneration  for  the  seven 
gods  of  luck." 

Mrs.  Nambo  thought  a  while,  then  said,  "Ah!  my  son, 
how  pleasant  it  would  be  if  I  could  feel  as  you  do.  You  only 
worship  one  God,  while  we  have  a  dozen.  I  suppose  that  you 
really  know  more  than  we  do." 

:?Yes,"  said  Mr.  Nambo,  "you  are  right,  wife.     I  wish  I 


MR.    NAMBO   AT   PRAYER. 

could  be  like  our  son,  but  I  have  believed  in  the  gods  of  my 
ancestors  too  long  to  be  able  to  turn  my  back  upon  them." 

A  few  evenings  after  this  conversation,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Nambo  and  Oto  visited  the  Kaga  Yashiki,  and  spent  several 
hours  with  the  Jewetts. 

As  usual,  the  dear  old  lady  was  exceedingly  chatty,  and 
afforded  the  mirth-loving  Fitz  great  amusement.  When  the 


3OO  THE    WONDERFUL    CITY    OF    TOKIO. 

clock  indicated  the  approach  of  the  hour  of  midnight,  she 
turned  to  them  and  said,  "The  Takara-bune  (treasure-ship), 
manned  by  the  gods  of  Luck,  Dai-koku,  Yebis,  Benten,  Bisha- 
mon,  Hotei,  Jiuro,  and  Fuku-roku-jin,  is  entering  the  Bay  of 
Yedo,  laden  with  all  manner  of  good  things  for  everybody. 
May  it  bring  you  health,  wealth,  happiness,  and  all  that  your 
hearts  can  desire  in  the  New  Year,  and  may  you  enjoy  many 
more  delightful  holidays  with  our  dear  son  Oto." 

"  I  heartily  echo  your  wish,"  said  Mrs.  Jewett. 

w  And  I,"  added  her  husband.  "  Our  young  people  have 
spent  their  time  both  pleasantly  and  profitably.  Now,  Sallie, 
what  would  you  like  me  to  promise  you  for  the  coming 
year?  " 

The  girl  looked  at  her  brothers,  then  replied,  "We  have 
been  talking  about  something,  but  fear  you  will  not  grant  our 
request." 

"  Go  on,"  said  her  father,  smiling  at  her. 

"Tell  him,  brother,"  she  whispered  to  Johnnie. 

The  latter  hesitated,  whereupon  Fitz  said,  in  his  off-hand 
fashion,  "Well,  it  is  just  this,  sir.  We  have  all  heard  a  great 
deal  of  Yeso.  and  would  like  to  visit  that  wonderful  island. 
Will  you  promise  to  take  us  there  ?  " 

The  Professor  laughed,  and  after  thinking  a  while,  said, 
"  Nothing  would  give  me  greater  pleasure.  The  government 
has  requested  me  to  visit  Northern  Japan,  to  make  a  special 
report  upon  certain  of  its  productions.  If  all  goes  well  I  will 
take  you,  and  Oto  must  accompany  us  as  our  medical  adviser." 

"Good!"  cried  Fitz;  then  turning  to  the  young  doctor,  he 
slyly  added,  "Oto,  mind  you  do  not  forget  to  bring  a  supply  of 
your  honorable  plasters.  We  hear  extraordinary  stories  about 
the  wild  men,  the  ferocious  bears,  the  primitive  travelling,  and 
the  monstrous  size  of  the  mosquitoes  of  that  mysterious  land, 


PREPARING    FOR    NEW-YEAR'S    FESTIVITIES. 


301 


so  it  will  be  as  well  to  take  every  precaution.  Say,  won't  we 
have  fun !  We  can  fish  for  salmon,  visit  the  bear  temples,  see 
them  worship  their  live  gods,  and  learn  a  language  that  con- 
sists of  a  gamut  of  grunts.  Just  fancy,  —  we  shall  be  among  a 
people  who  still  use  the  bow  and  arrow,  and  are  more  primitive 
than  our  Indians.  Won't  we  have  a  rattling  good  time!  Come, 
wake  up,  Johnnie,  what  do  you  say  ?  " 

"  I  believe  we  shall  thoroughly  enjoy  our  holiday,"  quietly 
answered  the  boy.  "  Don't  you  think  so,  Sallie  ?  " 

The  girl  smiled,  and,  nodding,  replied,  "Yes,  brother,  I 
expect  to  behold  something  entirely  new.  Still,  I  do  not 
imagine  anything  can  be  much  more  interesting  than  the  sights 
we  have  seen  in  the  wonderful  City  of  Tokio." 


.OKALIF(%, 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

Return  this  material  to  the  library 

from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


J/W 151990 


"(E»4D  LD-URC 


15  1990 

APR  3  0  1990 


VRY/;/ 


1  ir 


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.OF-CALIF 


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